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Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/odysseyofpliilipp01will 



THE ODYSSEY OF 
THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 




2 S 



The Odyssey 

Of the 

Philippine Commission 



BY 

DANIEL R. WILLIAMS 

Private Secretary to Commissioner Moses; Secretary Philippine 

Commission; Associate Judge Philippine Court 

of Land Registration, Manila. 



ILLUSTRATED 




CHICAGO 

A. C. McCLURG & CO. 

1913 






Copyright 

A. C. McClurg & Co. 

1913 

Published September, 1913 



W. F. HALL PRINTING CS^PAlfr, CHICAGO 



/•?: 



)CI.A35i717 



TO 

MY COMPANIONS ON THE TRANSPORT 

" HANCOCK," 

AND TO 

ALL THE MEN AND WOMEN WHO HAVE BORNE 

A PART IN WORKING OUT OUR 

PHILIPPINE PROBLEM 



PREFATORY NOTE 

TT7"ITH the exception of the final chapter, the 
' ' story here told of the trip of the Philippine 
Commission to Manila, and the fragmentary 
account of its early work in the islands, are taken 
almost literally from letters written home at the 
time. For this reason some of the conclusions 
reached are doubtless subject to correction when 
judged by events. It is hoped, however, that this 
fault will be more than offset by the fact that such 
letters seek to portray a situation in the making, 
with something of the spontaneity which ever comes 
from a passing judgment. That the letters are 
now presented in this form is due largely to the 
partial criticism of friends, who profess to see in 
them something of interest and information to the 
general public. If further excuse be necessary, it 
is found in the circumstance that no book has yet 
appeared describing the establishment of civil 
government in the Philippines, nor conveying an 
adequate idea of the difficulties encountered and 
overcome by the Commission in its work. Our 
country was fortunate in having such statesman- 
like men sent to meet and solve such big problems, 
and any contribution which will help our people to 
further realize and appreciate this fact, and at the 
same time deepen their interest in the welfare of 
our Filipino wards, cannot come amiss. 





CONTENTS 




CHAPTER 




PAGE 


I 


San Francisco to Yokohama . . 


I 


II 


Yokohama to Hong Kong . . , 


i8 


III 


Hong Kong to Manila . . . . 


38 


IV 


Manila and First Impressions . 


48 


V 


Early Incidents and Problems . 


59 


VI 


Law-Making and Sundry Excur- 






sions 


87 
108 


VII 


The Turning of the Tide . . . 


VIII 


Provincial, Municipal, and 






School Laws 


132 


IX 


Provincial Organization . . 


145 


X 


The Southern Trip .... 


165 


XI 


The Southern Trip (Continued) 


190 


XII 


The Southern Trip (Continued) 


215 


XIII 


Igorote Land 


■ 251 


XIV 


The Passing of the " Empire " 


. 278 


XV 


The Northern Trip .... 


. 290 


XVI 


The Machinery in Motion , 


• 3^S 


XVII 


Twelve Years Later . . . 


• 327 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

The Philippine Commission Frontispiece 

President Taft at Oahu plantation 12 

Mr. Dominguez 12 

Ship-board diversions 24 

The Nikko quartette 24 

The author and his daughter 50 

Provincial transportation, carabao sled 58 

Gate, Walled City 58 

Government offices, Manila 70 

The water carrier 86 

River scene 100 

On the Pasig river 100 

A country lane with bamboo 116 

A country home 116 

Negritos in the forest 130 

Negritos at home 130 

A woman of the people 138 

Adult Negrito woman, showing relative size 138 

A tropical river i^ 

A river scene, Pagsanjan, Laguna 144 

Native boats welcoming Commission, Bataan 162 

Native prao, off Bacolod, Negros 162 

Filipino girl 178 

Typical Filipino women of the better class 178 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

President Taft and the Sultan of Sulu 190 

Group of Bataks, Paragua 190 

Moro sports, Cotabato, Mindanao 194 

Moro dancing girls, Cotabato, Mindanao 194 

A Moro family 200 

Bagobos, Davao, Mindanao 220 

The doctor 256 

Fast express 256 

Arch of welcome, Tacloban, Leyte 258 

Scene on the Benguet road . 258 

Tropical vegetation, Benguet 262 

Group of Igorotes, Benguet 268 

Public session with Igorotes at Cervantes 274 

Balsa used on the trip to Bangued, Abra 296 

The "Merry Widow" 300 

A bath al-fresco 300 

River scene showing dense forest growth 314 

Igorote cHmbing a tree fern 314 

Igorote woman 326 

One of the people 326 



THE ODYSSEY OF 
THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 



The Odyssey of the Philippine 
Commission 

I 

SAN FRANCISCO TO YOKOHAMA 

U. S. Transport Hancock, 
Pacific Ocean, April 17, igoo. 
"IT 7" ELL, the die is cast, and it is Ho ! for the set- 
' ' ting sun, and all the mysteries that lie 
shrouded away yonder beyond the dip of many 
horizons. The Commission and party sailed at 
noon today, and with the Cliff House and Farral- 
lones a memory, I can testify to some of the feelings 
of that old adventurer, Cristofer Colombo. The 
past two weeks have been such a scramble as to 
leave little time to think upon the nature of this 
journey or the experiences opening before us. We 
are beginning to take stock of them now, however, 
and of each other. Any one who has traveled on 
ocean liners will recall the interest, not without 
thrills, with which he turned to examine his fellow 
passengers when friends and shore line had finally 
disappeared. It is as if all the call of the big, out- 
side world had become centered upon the miniature 

[I] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

world about you. With our party this usual inter- 
est is stimulated by the fact that we are to be not 
only fellow voyagers for a month and half, but 
fellow workers as well in that somewhat hazy 
Orient toward which we are headed. 

With the exception of the members of the Com- 
mission who met and organized in Washington, 
few of our number ever saw each other before 
boarding the transport. Even here, however, the 
old saying about the world being small, finds illus- 
tration. After leaving port I found that James A. 
LeRoy, Private Secretary to Commissioner Wor- 
cester, is none other than "Jack" LeRoy, trackman 
and athlete, whom I had known in the old college 
days at Ann Arbor. It was a pleasant discovery, 
and established a community of interest between 
us without any preliminary skirmishing. 

That this expedition Is " fraught with peculiar 
Importance," and is certain to hold strange incident 
and happening for all of us, is more easily said at 
this time than altogether appreciated. As we 
steamed down the bay this afternoon, and saw the 
fluttering flags and heard the crash of music from 
the different warships, It seemed more as though we 
were bound for a short pleasure cruise than begin- 
ning a journey of eight thousand miles to end it — 
we knew not where. It was and Is difficult to realize 
that the mission upon which the Commission is going 
is unique to our people, and marks, in all likelihood, 
the turning of a new page in our history. 

As nearly as I understand it, our country Is now 

[2] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

undertaking something entirely unforeseen and 
unplanned for at the outbreak of war with Spain. 
It certainly formed no part of our plan at that time 
to take unto ourselves a distant and an alien race, 
and train it in the way they should go. In fact 
there were mighty few of us who could have told 
then just where the Philippines were, or what manner 
of people inhabited them. When Dewey sank the 
Spanish fleet on that May morning in 1898, you 
could almost hear the rustle of geographies and 
encyclopedias throughout the land. There has 
been fierce argument since as to what our next move 
should have been. Some contend Dewey should 
have sailed away as soon as his particular task was 
done; others that he did the only proper thing by 
remaining. The fact is he stayed, and we sent over 
some soldiers to help capture Manila and loosen 
Spain's hold on shore as well as on sea. While we 
were doing this, the Filipinos improved the occasion 
by setting up a bouffe government of their own at 
Malolos. Here again, some maintain, a chance was 
offered us to quit the islands and rid ourselves of 
further responsibility. Those on the ground, how- 
ever, vehemently insist that the continued presence 
of our soldiers alone saved Manila from being 
looted, and the islands at large from anarchy and 
revolution. Whatever the right of it, the doubt 
was once more resolved by remaining, and the ques- 
tion of what we "ought to have done" has now 
become purely academic. 

Our primary purpose in staying wa§ doubtless to 

[3] " 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

preserve law and order. Beyond this our plans do 
not seem to have been very well defined either to 
ourselves or to the Filipinos. We assured the lat- 
ter of our desire to better their condition, and 
promised them as big a share in running things as 
was consistent with the public good. Nobody 
seemed able to say, however, just how we were to 
go about it. Pending a discussion of ways and 
means our troops remained in Manila, while the 
Filipinos camped outside and continued to operate 
their improvised government at Malolos. Aguin- 
aldo, it appears, told his people that Dewey, or 
some other person in authority, had promised him 
the islands should be independent. This was denied 
by the accused, and by our government, which was 
convinced, apparently, that the natives lacked both 
the training and experience to stand alone. After 
numerous conferences, which accomplished nothing, 
the Filipinos concluded to end the argument by 
driving us out of the islands. That this was a case 
of bad judgment on their part hardly admits of 
question. It left us no alternative but to suppress 
the uprising and restore order. We had driven the 
Spaniard from the islands, and upon us devolved the 
obligation of replacing the government destroyed 
with one which would insure protection to native 
and foreigner alike. To withdraw in the face of 
attack would be to invite chaos. 

Though there can be but one outcome to the insur- 
rection, its occurrence is most deplorable. Not 
only has it already resulted in much destruction of 

[4] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

life and property, but, more unfortunate still, it has 
sown and is sowing hatreds and antagonisms which 
threaten to render abortive all our purposes toward 
the islanders. If our occupation is to benefit them, 
their belief in our good intentions is imperative. 
To hold a sullen people by the strong hand will 
neither profit them nor satisfy us. Their confidence 
and cooperation are absolutely necessary if our 
plans for their betterment are to be realized. The 
difficulty is that they have been deluded by promises 
so long that nothing but the tangible fact will bring 
conviction. To convince them of our sincerity it is 
necessary to take some actual steps toward making 
good our promises and pledges, and for this some- 
thing more than the existing military rule is impera- 
tive. Not only is such a government necessarily 
harsh and arbitrary, and unfitted by its very nature 
to win the confidence of a people, but in this instance 
it is rendered doubly so by reason of the Inevitable 
friction and bitterness caused by the pending 
struggle. 

It is to meet this condition of affairs that the 
present Commission was appointed. President 
McKinley has chosen five men from out our country 
to go to the Philippines, and there, upon the heels 
of war, convince an embittered, suspicious and 
beaten race that we are sincere in our desire to help 
them, and have no purpose In our hearts save their 
highest good. He has Instructed them to Inaugu- 
rate governments essentially popular in form as fast 
as territory Is held and controlled by our troops, 

[5] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

and, in so doing, to remember that the purpose 
sought is not our satisfaction or the expression of 
our theoretical views, but the happiness, peace and 
prosperity of the people of the Philippine Islands. 
Not an easy task is it, particularly when you remem- 
ber that insurrection is still waging, and that seventy 
thousand American troops are seeking by force of 
arms to establish our sovereignty in the islands? 

Can you wonder, therefore, considering all this, 
that our journey takes on a strange interest for me, 
or that its possible future happenings are a matter 
of more or less vivid conjecture? I am glad to be 
In the game. 



Pacific Ocean, April ig, igoo. 

Our party has spent most of the past two days in 
getting acquainted. There has been a process of 
" sizing up " which would doubtless surprise or 
appall were we mind readers. It is very fascinat- 
ing, however, for in each new acquaintance there is 
much of the excitement of a lottery. You may 
draw a congenial spirit and companion, who will add 
to the joy of all your after days, or It may be — 
otherwise. I have gotten far enough to at least 
know the names of the chosen, with something of 
their previous condition of servitude. 

The Commission, as you doubtless know, con- 
sists of the Hon. William H. Taft of Ohio, Prof. 
Dean C. Worcester of Michigan, General Luke E. 
Wright of Tennessee, Judge Henry C. Ide of Ver- 

[6] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

mont, and Prof. Bernard Moses of California. 
Judge Taft is President of the Commission. 

As to the attaches of the Commission — those 
lesser lights whom fate or fortune has called to 
share in this work — their roster is as follows: 

Secretary Not yet named 

Assistant Secretary Rutherford Corbin 

Spanish Secretary Arthur W. Fergusson 

Assistant Spanish Secretary Frank Dominguez 

Disbursing Officer Frank A. Branagan 

Recorder Leon W. Pepperman 

Private Secretary to Judge Taft Mr. Coffman 

Private Secretary to Com'r Worcester, 

James A. LeRoy y 
Private Secretary to Com'r Wright. .Fred Heiskell 

Private Secretary to Com'r Ide Paul Carter 

Private Secretary to Com'r Moses, 

Daniel R. Williams 

We of the staff, no less than the Commissioners, 
come from widely separated places and callings. 
Mr. Fergusson has been connected with the Bureau 
of American Republics in Washington, and was 
interpreter and translator for the Paris Peace Com- 
mission. Mr. Corbin was Assistant Secretary to 
the Schurman Commission, and was connected in 
some capacity with the Paris Peace Commission. 
Mr. Dominguez is an attorney from Los Angeles. 
Mr. Branagan was disbursing officer for the Depart- 
ment of Justice at Washington, and acted in like 

[7] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

capacity for the Paris Peace Commission. Mr. 
Coffman is just from Matanzas, Cuba, where he 
was Secretary to General Wilson. Mr. LeRoy and 
Mr. Heiskell are newspaper men, the former being 
from Detroit and the latter from Memphis. Mr. 
Carter was a court reporter at St. Johnsbury, Ver- 
mont. Mr. Pepperman, the Recorder of the Com- 
mission, who was connected with the Civil Service 
Board in Washington, is not aboard, having failed 
to reach San Francisco before we sailed. Another 
attache is Mr. Brussard, who went to Cuba as cap- 
tain in an immune regiment from Louisiana. I do 
not know his duties. 

In addition to the above, whose connection with 
the Commission is on a salary basis, our party 
includes the following: Mrs. Taft and three chil- 
dren, and her sister. Miss Herron; Mrs. Worcester 
and two children; Mrs. Wright and daughter; Mrs. 
Moses and sister, Miss Briggs; the Misses Ide; 
Mrs. Fergusson and boy; Mrs. Branagan and boy; 
Mrs. LeRoy; Major W. L. Kneedler, Medical Offi- 
cer assigned to the Commission, and Mrs. Kneedler 
and two children; Dr. Frank Bourns (who was 
associated with Commissioner Worcester on certain 
scientific expeditions to the Philippines before the 
Spanish war) and his sister. Miss Bourns; Mrs. 
Thomas, whose husband Is a volunteer army sur- 
geon In the islands; Miss Boruck and Miss McCord, 
army nurses enroute to Manila, and Major Batson 
of the Macabebee Scouts. 

Of our entire number, only four, i. e., Commis- 

[8] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

sloner Worcester, Dr. Bourns, Mr. Corbin and 
Major Batson, have ever been in the Philippines. 
To the rest of us the Orient, with all the mystery 
it enfolds, will come with all the charm of novelty. 
The Hancock is said to be one of the best 
appointed of our transports. It was formerly the 
S. S. Arizona with an Atlantic record. The Quar- 
termaster in charge is Captain Bradley of the 14th 
Infantry, who has as civilian assistants, Messrs. 
Sewell and Tripler. Captain H. K. Struve is Sail- 
ing Master, and Dr. McVean Is Ship's Surgeon. 
The cabin boys and waiters are Chinese, and the 
service could not be better were we guests on a 
private yacht. 



Pacific Ocean, April 23, igoo. 
We have ridden rough seas for the past two days, 
causing an eclipse of some of the party. It is now 
" fair weather," however, and everyone has come 
to the front with a smile. The air Is warm and 
delicious — possibly the sugar coat of the tropics. 
Awnings have been stretched over the promenade 
deck, and white clothes are In the ascendant. The 
only serious occupation aboard appears to be the 
study of Spanish, nearly everyone you meet having 
a Ubro Espanol of some kind. I fear that neither 
the atmosphere nor the environment Is conducive 
to producing great linguists. Thus far the only 
service required of the Secretaries has been copying 
the President's Instructions to the Commission — 

[9] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

an interesting rather than a strenuous task. We are 
due at Honolulu tomorrow, and speculation is rife 
whether we will be permitted to land. The port 
has been quarantined for some weeks on account of 
bubonic plague, and our going ashore depends, it 
seems, upon our being able to get a clean bill of 
health for Yokohama from the Japanese Consul. 



Honolulu, April 24, igoo. 
We anchored off Honolulu at 12-30 p. m., just 
one week out from San Francisco. The view from 
the transport is one to make our desire to go ashore 
clamorous. The city lies along a circling bay, with 
a background of mountains. Pretty valleys stretch 
back between the ranges of hills, green with the 
vivid coloring of warm skies and tropic rainfalls. 
Clouds and occasional showers sweep over the 
mountains, while the city and bay remain flooded 
in bright sunlight. Our fate hung in the balance 
for some hours, there being much running to and 
fro and consultations galore. Finally, about 4-30 
P. M., the scales happily tipped our way, it being 
definitely decided we might land. As the good news 
spread over the ship, smiles lighted the erstwhile 
gloom, and paeans of joy resounded on every hand. 



Pacific Ocean, April 28, igoo. 
The old saying that " realization seldom equals 
expectation," does not hold good of Honolulu. 

[10] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

There the measure of hope overflows, and one's 
thoughts run only in superlatives. The place is, in 
truth, "A summer isle of Eden in dark purple 
spheres of sea." For three days and a half we 
revelled in its beauty and its charm. From the late 
afternoon we landed, until we were sped over the 
waters last midnight by the Alohas of a gracious 
people, there was a constant succession of delightful 
experiences. We fell in love with the smiling, soft- 
voiced Kanakas, the men with their hat bands of 
leis, and the women in their flowing holakous. 
Markets, filled with strange fruits and with fish as 
multi-colored as the rainbow, were a never-ending 
delight, and the variety of vegetation was a revela- 
tion. Everywhere you saw giant palms marking 
the sky line, while lesser trees and plants flourished 
in tropical luxuriance. 

The first morning we were taken on a drive to 
the far-famed Pali. The road leads back through 
the city and up a green valley hedged by high moun- 
tains. The view at all times Is superb. As we 
gradually ascended we had behind us a panorama 
of the city and the bay, while about us were tower- 
ing cloud-capped peaks. After winding steadily 
upward for some two hours we came to a narrow, 
wind-swept gorge that seemed to end in space. We 
stood at the crest of the Island and saw yawning 
before us a sheer declivity of over two thousand 
feet. Far below, and spreading out like a fan, lay 
a fertile plain which stretched away to meet the 
ocean beyond. In the valley every shade and tint 

[II] 



THE ODYSSEY OE 

of green blended into one harmonious carpet of 
beautiful colors. The sea, shimmering in the bright 
sunlight, was a deep, deep blue except where it 
broke into foam upon some coral reef or fell back 
lazily from the curving shore. It was a scene such 
as the mighty workshop of nature occasionally 
strikes off to gladden and awe the souls of men. We 
were told that in the old days Kamehameha I pur- 
sued his routed enemies up the valley and then piled 
their bodies in thousands over the precipice. It 
looked quite feasible, though the place needed no 
such grim history to quicken its interest or charm. 
The following day we were given an excursion 
over the Oahu Railway, a line which runs partly 
around the island. On one side of us lay always 
the sea, and to the other rose the mountains, with 
the green of rice and cane fields between. We vis- 
ited the Oahu sugar plantation and saw the various 
stages of sugar making from the cutting of the cane 
to where the dark brown sugar was sewed in bags 
by native women. From there we proceeded to 
Waialua, a week's end resort for Honolulu people. 
The hotel Is called "Haleiwa," which means the 
beautiful home. It would be difficult to choose a 
more appropriate name, as the site and surround, 
ings of the place are ideal. The proprietor and 
his daughter sang some native songs for us, and 
never have I heard softer or sweeter music than 
these Hawaiian airs. They have a certain plaintive, 
sadness about them that carries an Irresistible 
appeal. Each of the party was decorated with a 

[12] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

lei — a chaplet of flowers worn about the neck and 
usually given to people who are being entertained 
or starting on a journey. It is a pretty custom, and 
has the effect, somehow, of leveling distinctions and 
bringing people into intimate touch without any 
agonizing intermediate stage. 

Our last day was devoted to various diversions. 
In the morning most of us visited the Bishop 
Museum, a wonderful collection of everything per- 
taining to native life In the Hawaiian and South Sea 
Islands. It was Intensely Interesting and left with 
us a number of decidedly new Impressions concern- 
ing the customs and costumes of primitive peoples. 

For the afternoon we were invited to Waikiki 
Beach as the guests of Mrs. Carter. Waikiki lies 
on the outskirts of the city and Is famous for its 
summer homes and Its bathing and surf riding. 
Most of the gathering donned bathing suits, and all 
but a few Indulged In surf riding — without doubt 
one of the most exhilarating sports in the world. 
The natives, who are experts, ride the breakers on 
long flat boards, as pictured in our old geographies. 
For amateurs, however, a surf boat is provided, 
being a long narrow canoe fitted with an outrigger 
and holding from five to eight persons. In charge 
of a native, you work your way out through the surf 
until some four hundred yards from shore, where 
the boat is turned and a lookout kept for a nice, big 
breaker. Then, as the native sees one to his liking, 
he makes a deft turn of his paddle, and the breaker, 
Instead of passing over or under, catches and holds 

[13] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

your craft in the curve of the waters and shoots you 
forward with a rush like the wind. The stern of 
the boat is high up near the crest of the wave, while 
the bow is ploughing through the water at its base 
and enveloping you in spray. Glancing over your 
shoulder you see the white comb of the breaker 
rising above you, while about you is the swish and 
swirl of the embracing water as you and it race 
madly toward the shore. 

While the sport is reasonably safe, your boat is 
likely to capsize if allowed to swing " side on " to a 
big breaker. This occurred two or three times, but 
in each instance the victim could swim, and clung 
to the overturned canoe until it drifted within depth. 
Judge Ide was one of the unfortunates, and in the 
mixup was evidently struck by the outrigger. As 
succeeding waves dashed over him, and broke his 
hold, he became quite exhausted and kept afloat with 
difficulty. Major Kneedler, passing in another 
boat, saw his dilemma and did the rescue act by 
taking the Judge's place in the water. 

General Wright also had an exciting experience. 
When some distance from shore he jumped from his 
boat to join the bathers, all of whom appeared to 
be within depth. Instead of landing in the regular 
surf he went over his head into a deep and unlooked 
for channel. Though able to swim, the unexpected 
nature of the plunge caused him to swallow consid- 
erable sea water, something not prescribed as a first 
aid to swimmers. After rather strenuous efforts he 
reached a small raft anchored out in the water. 

[14] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

From there he tried to attract some of the boats, 
but his distress signals were treated as mere ebul- 
litions of joy. He finally struck out alone, but* 
again landed in that unfortunate channel. It was 
only after a desperate struggle, and when utterly 
exhausted, that he finally reached shore. He 
stated later that he could not have held out another 
fifty yards. 

Mrs. Carter's lawn runs down to the shore, and 
as we gathered there in the late afternoon the scene 
was one of the most peaceful and restful I have ever 
known. The air was soft and fragrant, and the 
setting sun painted sea and sky with a glory of color 
new to northern eyes. It was a perfect experience. 

The world has many beautiful playgrounds, but 
one might go far to find a prettier than Honolulu. 



Pacific Ocean, May 8, igoo. 
We are now ten days out from Honolulu, and 
within two of Yokohama. During the first days 
after leaving Honolulu everyone was more or less 
comatose, giving tired nature a chance to repair the 
ravages of that season of dissipation. There is 
something about an ocean trip that conduces to lazi- 
ness anyway. The old and accustomed task has 
been set aside, and there is no demand or inspira- 
tion to supply its place with anything new. The 
daily newspaper is absent; there are no office hours, 
telephones, nor time-tables; you eat and sleep with- 
out a hurry call; you lie down when you feel like 

[15] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

it, and walk or talk as the spirit moves you. It is 
a condition of things for which most people imagine 
they are striving, but which they seldom realize 
except when they can't help it. 

The days have brought closer acquaintanceship 
among our party, the wide diversity in character 
making for mutual interests. Our community of 
purpose has also served to unify us into one large 
family, something impossible had we been simply 
fellow passengers. There has been much of the 
abandon usual on shipboard. We have had costume 
parties where trunks were ransacked for startling 
effect, and when everyone temporarily lost his dig- 
nity if not his sanity. There have been impromptu 
concerts, in which all participated, the repertoire 
ranging from grand opera to ragtime. The favor- 
ite air appears to be "Whistling Rufus, the One 
Man Band." I feel sure that whenever we hear 
that song again it will have power to carry us back 
to the old social hall of the Hancock, where cama- 
raderie and good cheer were king. A not unusual 
ending to our songfests is for all to join hands. 
Commissioners included, and dance around the room 
like children. 

There have been two or three days of storm with 
some casualties. The survivors have been of good 
cheer, however, and have even mocked the fallen. 
Immunity from seasickness and heartlessness seem 
strangely united in the same person. Mr. Domin- 
guez, the Assistant Spanish Secretary, has been so 
persistently and actively ill as to excite interest if 

[i6] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

not sympathy. It is a record for which no one 
aspires. 



Yokohama, May lo, igoo. 

We cast anchor in Yeddo Bay off Yokohama at 
nine-thirty tonight. We are now at the gates of the 
Orient, and are thrilled with the thought of what 
the morrow and succeeding days will bring. Our 
approach to this wonderland could not have been 
more lovely or picturesque. We entered the bay 
just before sunset, and saw the sun go down a great 
red ball of fire beside the mountain peak of Fuji- 
yama, whose perfect cone shone white and clear in 
the distance. To the east rose a full moon which 
lighted us upon our twilight ride up the bay. The 
harbor itself appears like a scene from fairyland, 
the many ships in the bay being brilliantly illumi- 
nated in honor of the marriage of the Crown Prince, 
which occurred yesterday. It is a perfect night in 
a perfect setting. 

We are ready to go ashore in the morning, the 
plan being to remain here a week. To a healthy 
human being the situation and prospect leave little 
to be desired. 



[17] 



II 

YOKOHAMA TO HONG KONG 

En Route Yokohama to Kobe, 

May ly, igoo. 
QHORTLY after three o'clock the Hancock 
^ weighed anchor and headed down the bay. The 
afternoon was bright and clear, and we saw once 
again the sweep of that beautiful harbor with its 
shipping and crowded life, and, over against it, the 
city where we gained our first impressions of Japan. 
It may be our good fortune to visit here again, but 
never with the keen zest which came to us in the 
days just gone. So much of life has been crowded 
into their brief space that it seems a month rather 
than a short week since that night we saw the sun 
sink in splendor beside old Fujiyama, and waited for 
the coming dawn. How we spent our time can best 
be told by order of days. 



Yokohama, May ii, igoo. 

Needless to say our first day was one of vivid 

surprises. It was without formal program, the 

idiosyncracies of the party being given full sway. 

As we landed we were immediately surrounded by 

[i8] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

a swarm of rickshawmen, vociferous in their 
demands for patronage and in voluble assurances 
that they could " speakee Inglis." Rickshaws con- 
stitute the carriage of Japan, and there are thou- 
sands of them. To see grown people getting into 
these carts, and then being whisked off by the brown- 
legged runners, impresses one at first as rather a 
sport for children. When our crowd of seven 
started, all in line, it reminded me of a lot of 
ostriches trotting off. Everyone had a broad grin 
for his neighbor, and when we passed others from 
the ship they were hailed wildly. We found the 
streets narrow and the houses low, and constantly 
wondered when we would come to the wide "busi- 
ness " section. 

Most of the crowd took lunch at the Grand Hotel, 
which is situated on the bund, or bay shore, and 
commands a beautiful view of the harbor. The 
latter was full of all sorts of water craft, ranging 
from the sampan^ or native gondola, up through 
junks, yachts, merchantmen, liners and transports., 
to the warships of all nations. 

In the afternoon some of us took rickshaws and 
made a wide tour of the city. It was a kaleido- 
scope of changing scenes and impressions. The 
little houses with their rice paper windows and cool, 
mat floors; the picturesque costumes of the people; 
the women with their babies strapped upon their 
backs; the girls with their rosy cheeks; the troops 
of children; the odd little shops, and the various 
street signs and scenes — all were enchanting. At 

[19] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

one point we encountered a wonderful garden, with 
beds of peonies, the most luxuriant imaginable. At 
another we stopped to take tea, and the gaily 
dressed little ladies who waited upon us, and who 
pattered about on the soft mats, were very, very 
gracious. 

That night a dance was given at the Grand Hotel, 
the Hancock contingent being well represented. 
Yokohama is a tourist center, and the crowd had 
foregathered from all far places. The assortment 
was a varied one, and it was interesting to try and 
catalogue the specimens. You gained the impres- 
sion that everybody was out for a good time, and 
cared little what others might think or say. The 
last launch left for the ship at midnight. Many of 
our crowd went aboard in sampans, however. 



May 12, igoo. 

Today several of us went to Tokio, an hour's 
ride by rail from Yokohama. En route we caught 
a glimpse of the country life of the peopile, and it 
was no less fascinating than the city. Their fields 
are platted into little squares, every one farmed like 
a garden. The effect produced by these multi-colored 
patches is a strikingly pretty one. At the various 
stopping places there was always a tremendous hub- 
bub and clatter. The people wear wooden clogs, 
and as they raced up and down the platform it 
sounded for all the world like runaway colts. 

Tokio, the capital city, is a place one could 
[20] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

scarcely begin to explore in a week, much less in a 
day or two. We did little more than drift about, 
being entirely satisfied to take what fate brought our 
way. When everything Is novel there is little need 
to pick and choose. As a matter of fact, "fate" 
was represented for us by our rickshaw coolies. They 
had their own notion of what we should see, derived 
doubtless from a composite of the demands of by- 
gone tourists. Very likely we could not have im- 
proved upon their ideas had we cared to make the 
effort. Their first objective was Shiba Park, and 
we praised their choice in glowing terms. There, 
amid a wilderness of gigantic trees, Is situated a 
famous group of Shinto temples. They were our 
first realization of those oriental, pagoda-like struc- 
tures, full of color and strange forms, which typify 
more than anything else the "East" of our dreams. 
Upon entering the temples we were requested to 
remove our shoes, this more as a protection for the 
delicate matting than from any religious sentiment. 
Wandering about In your stocking feet, particularly 
when not prepared for it, does not inspire a solemn 
or devotional spirit. Scattered about the grounds 
were groups of pilgrims, giving a picturesque touch 
to the scene and further reminding us that we were 
a long way from home. The worshipers, before 
making their prayers, would clap their hands or 
strike a gong, the evident purpose being to arouse 
the deity to their presence. 

Most of the government buildings are of modern 
architecture, and with broad surrounding avenues, 

[21] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

mark well the advent of a New Japan. The people 
are naturally proud of these structures as evidencing 
their progress, but the visitor finds his greatest in- 
terest elsewhere. One does not appreciate how 
unattractive are mere piles of brick and stone, built 
for utility only, until he sees them cheek by jowl 
with those other creations of a people naturally 
artistic. There is a delicacy and a finish about every- 
thing purely Japanese which cannot fail to impress 
the more practical westerner. 

We stopped at the Imperial Hotel, which, like 
many other public utilities in Japan, is subsidized 
by the government. When It is considered that a 
very large class of tourists make it thumbs up or 
thumbs down for a place according to how they are 
fed and lodged, the scheme of insuring them a good 
hotel has much to commend it. A proper menu 
and a comfortable bed cover a multitude of lesser 
ills. 

In the evening we attended a native theater. 
There were eight of us, and our rickshaws made 
quite a procession as we bowled along in single file. 
The street crowds, the lighted shops, the sense of 
rapid motion, and the entire novelty of our sur- 
roundings produced a sensation difficult to describe. 
There are no chairs In a Japanese theater — or In a 
Japanese home for that matter. Everybody squats 
on mats on the floor. As our legs refused to prop- 
erly double to meet this requirement, we were sup- 
plied with chairs. Their play was some historical 
drama, with more dialogue than action. [They had 

I"] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

a revolving stage, and when one scene ended the 
machinery turned and brought into view another 
section. It was much simpler than a drop curtain. 



May i^, J goo. 

Today a quartette of us — i.e., Mrs. Thomas, 
Miss Briggs, Miss Bourns, and myself — decided 
to go to Nikko, the famed temple city of Japan, 
concerning which there is a saying that you must 
not say the word "beautiful" until you have seen 
it. We left the hotel shortly after noon in a driving 
rain, being penned in our rickshaws by waterproofs. 
We reached the railroad station in half an hour and 
were glad to exchange our human steeds for one of 
steel and steam. The afternoon was cold and damp, 
and none of us were warmly clad. Finally, to keep 
from congealing, we played the old game of " peas 
porridge hot, peas porridge cold," etc. It served 
the purpose, but the impression produced by the 
performance upon our Japanese audience will likely 
never be told. 

Judge Taft and Commissioners Wright and Ide, 
who were en route to Nikko and Yokohama, joined 
our train at Akabane. We changed cars at Utsuno- 
miya, from which point the scenery became more 
mountainous and picturesque. Extending from 
Utsunomiya to Nikko, a distance of over twenty- 
five miles, is a wonderful avenue lined with giant 
cryptomeria trees. It is a beautiful road leading 
to a beautiful shrine, and millions of devout pilgrims 

[23] 



THE ODYSSEY OF. 

have traveled its shaded course. They still travel 
it, but its prestige has waned with the coming of 
the railway. 

We reached Nikko just at dusk. The road from 
the station to the hotel is uphill, requiring two men 
to each rickshaw. It is to be said that a rickshaw 
coolie has an unerring eye for weight, and invariably 
makes his first dash at the smallest members of a 
party. For this reason Judge Taft was not as imme- 
diately popular with this fraternity as some of us. 
The difficulty was overcome, however, by assigning 
an extra detail of runners to his rickshaw, and it was 
with much merriment, and with every encourage- 
ment from the interested spectators, that the hill 
was finally achieved. We found the hotel every- 
thing the most exacting tourist could require. Smil- 
ing Japanese little girls acted as servants, and 
they were as nimble and silent as mice. " Chio," 
our waitress, was one of the prettiest and most capti- 
vating creatures imaginable, and we all succumbed 
to her charms. 



May 14, I goo. 
We woke this morning to find the sun shining, 
and to breathe an atmosphere intoxicating in its 
fragrance and freshness. As our stay in Nikko was 
limited, we started early on our visit to the temples. 
Our walk led us first across a brawling mountain 
stream, with vistas in the distance of great, verdure- 
glad peaks, canopied with fleecy clouds. Directly 

[24] 




Ship-board Diversions 




The Nikko Quartette 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

upstream from where we crossed we saw the sacred, 
world-famous, red lacquer bridge, which none but 
the Emperor may pass. Our pathway then wound 
upward through the silent forest and a vision of 
beauty gradually unfolded which words are feeble 
to describe. The sight of those marvelous temples 
on that tree-crowded mountain side was all that 
fancy dared to paint or wildest hope conceive. The 
impression created was one of age; of some old, 
old time away back in the past — a time filled with 
dreams and strange fantastic legends. You fronted 
long avenues of towering trees, through which the 
sunlight sifted and glinted in dancing shadows. Far 
down the vista you saw wonderful gateways, and 
still beyond, gleaming through the living archway 
of green, were pagoda and temple, resplendent with 
ornament and rich in all that a beauty-loving people 
could inspire. In the foreground were strangely 
garbed pilgrims, some kneeling, all serious and de- 
vout. Lacquer, bronze, and gold; masterful carv- 
ings in wood and stone; paintings rare and beauti- 
ful; rich ripe color everywhere, and yet all sense of 
garishness softened by the green of tree and hill- 
side. It was a combination that satisfied every soul 
longing and left the feeling that never had you seen 
or dreamed a thing so exquisite. Calm and quiet 
dwelt in the shaded, sacred groves, and one longed 
that he might stay on and on and become saturated 
with the peace and harmony of it all. 

Before leaving we climbed a long flight of moss- 
grown steps to where, in a simple enclosure, is a 

[25] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

bronze urn containing the ashes of the men to whose 
memory all this wonderful series of temples was 
reared. While erected originally as emblems of the 
Buddhist faith, and as a sacred gathering place for 
Buddha's worshipers, they were also designed as 
memorials to the great Shoguns, lyeyasu and his 
grandson Lyemitsu, military rulers of Japan long 
before the coming of Perry or the restoration of 
the empire. What their particular claim to great- 
ness was I know not, nor does it much matter. 
Whatever It may have been. It can truly be said 
they did not live In vain. This legacy of beauty 
which they Inspired, and which now marks their 
tomb, has proven and will prove a source of joy 
and gladness to untold generations of men. Such a 
creation must work for goodness and for higher 
ideals of life and conduct, whoever or whatever the 
deity that sits enthroned therein. 

We left for Yokohama at one o'clock and were 
aboard the Hancock shortly after eight, having been 
absent three days. Our outing had proved a per- 
fect one, and we were Inclined to commiserate with 
others of the party who lacked the enterprise to 
make the trip. 



May 75, igoo. 
Today we shopped and further explored Yoko- 
hama. In the afternoon most of our party attended 
the opening of the Summer Race Meet. These 
races occur once every four months, and are, it 

[26] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

seems, the smart event of Yokohama society. 
Whether the peope in this part of the world enjoy 
sport more than the average citizen elsewhere, or 
whether it results from paucity of diversions, there 
seems to be far greater interest in racing and kin- 
dred sports in the East than at home. The after- 
noon was a perfect one, and the crowd cosmopolitan 
to a degree. One saw Germans, Englishmen, Amer- 
icans, and representatives of practically every Euro- 
pean nation, as also every type of Oriental, each 
with his or her own peculiar bearing and dress. The 
track is on a high plateau on the outskirts of the 
city, and offers, among other beautiful views, a 
splendid outlook on the snow-capped peak of 
Fujiyama. 

That night a number of us made a tour of Theater 
Street, one of the most picturesque of all the thor- 
oughfares of Yokohama. It is full of shops, 
bazaars, and shows of various kinds, and gives one 
a sight of native life unalloyed. At one point we 
left our rickshaws and started to walk, but soon 
found ourselves almost suffocated by the crowd that 
gathered about us. We proved as great attractions 
to them, evidently, as they to us. Before returning 
we climbed the old Shinto temple on the hill of 
Nogiyama, where a festival of some kind was in 
progress. Everything looked weird and strange as 
seen by the fitful light of lamp and torch. The 
city and bay, however, were flooded in a glorious 
moonlight, and as we looked out upon the scene we 
felt what the Germans call die Freude des Lebens. 

[27] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

May 1 6, igoo. 
The members of the Commission and wives went 
to Tokio today to be presented to the Emperor and 
Empress — a ceremony reported as full of reciprocal 
expressions of kindliness and good will. The shop- 
ping fever occupied the rest of us most of the day. 
Compared with prices in the States, everything seems 
remarkably cheap, while the art of making their 
wares attractive has been reduced to a science by 
these people. The temptation to buy and buy, and 
that very often what you neither need nor want, is 
certainly very great. The fact also that there is a 
sliding scale of prices makes your buying something 
of a lottery. Their usual procedure is to ask a 
certain figure, followed, when you start away, by 
the query, "How much you give?" Often, simply 
to rid yourself of an importunate vendor, you men- 
tion a price so small as to seem ridiculous, only to 
find your offer accepted and yourself saddled with 
something you had no idea whatever of getting. 
Our ship during evenings was usually transformed 
into a sort of fair for the exhibition of purchases 
and a comparison of prices, the widely different cost 
of like articles often proving a revelation. In this 
regard those of our crowd who hailed from New 
England showed to advantage. 



May 17, igoo. 
Last day In Yokohama. A small party of us 
decided to go to Kamakura, a little town about an 

[28] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

hour's ride by train from Yokohama. It is here 
they have a great bronze Buddha, said to be the 
largest bronze figure in the world. The village was 
once famous for its magnificent temples, but in 1495 
the buildings were swept away by a tidal wave and 
never restored. Only the great Buddha and the 
stone foundations of the temples are left. We saw 
the Buddha and were not disappointed. It is about 
fifty feet high, only the upper half of the figure be- 
ing represented. The expression given the work is 
remarkable considering its proportions. A writer 
speaking of it says: "No other work gives such an 
impression of majesty or so truly symbolizes the 
central idea of Buddhism — the intellectual calm 
which comes of perfected knowledge and the subju- 
gation of all passion." It is referred to as the Dai- 
Butsu. It is situated in a little grove and stands 
where Nature seems to have intended — in the open 
air and sunlight, with the green of tree and hill about 
it, and the wide, open sea in the foreground. I do 
not know whether it was because we were a bit tired, 
or whether there was some witchery in the soft air 
and faintly stirring leaves of the trees, but all felt 
as though we would like to stretch out and slpep in 
the shadow of the great Buddha. Perhaps some of 
the calm and quiet of that wonderful face, which has 
looked down unchanged on so very many of earth's 
children, has finally given of its peace and rest- 
fulness to the place, and all who come within its 
shadow feel the charm. It is pleasant to believe 
so, and feel the restfulness. 

[29] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

We were back in Yokohama at one o'clock, the 
transport being scheduled to sail at three. Some of 
us had planned to go from Yokohama to Kobe by 
rail, meeting the transport at the latter port. There 
was some sort of plague scare, however, which 
threatened complications, and the scheme was 
abandoned. 



Kobe, May i8, igoo. 
We were within sight of land most of the day, the 
sea being like glass. There was very little stir 
aboard, everyone being quite ready for a spell of 
quiet. We passed into Osaka Bay early in the eve- 
ning and anchored off Kobe at nine o'clock. Shortly 
afterward the quarantine offic'ers came aboard, six 
of them, and a disagreeable lot of little men they 
were. It took over an hour to satisfy them that the 
transport was not a hospital for infectious diseases. 
As it was only a trifle over twenty-four hours since 
we cleared from one of their own ports, their zeal 
seemed somewhat misplaced. Nobody went ashore 
this evening. We are to be in Kobe but one day, 
and some of the crowd figure on rising early for a 
visit to Kyoto, the ancient capital of the empire, two 
hours distant by rail. 



Kobe, May ig, igoo. 
A number of us caught the six-thirty train for 
Kyoto. The ride, with its further glimpse of the 
country life of the people, was delightful. It is 

[30] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

difficult for one in the States, where land is farmed 
on such an extensive scale, to picture a landscape 
where every particle of ground is utilized. It gives 
the country a neat and finished appearance as though 
dressed for a holiday. 

Next to Nikko, Kyoto has the most famous tem- 
ples in Japan, and is quite a site for purely native 
industries. Being inland, and away from the mixed 
life of the ports, it has remained typically Japanese. 
We visited the Chionin and Higashi-Hongwangi 
temples, and they were truly marvels of workman- 
ship in precious woods, lacquer, and bronze. To 
describe them would be to repeat much of what was 
said of the temples of Nikko. One place, however, 
the so-called "Temple of a Thousand Statues" 
disappointed us. At this place a thousand figures 
are arranged in rows, one above the other, like ad- 
vertising mediums, with nothing to relieve their 
crowded monotony. Each figure has sixteen pairs 
of small hands protruding from either side, while 
the whole is crowned by thirty-two small heads. 
This, according to their count, makes 33,000 figures. 
The result is not impressive and it is difficult to 
conceive how an artistic people like the Japanese 
could either perpetrate or perpetuate such a night- 
mare as that collection of monstrosities. 

Some of us took luncheon at a native restaurant. 
There were no chairs, nor were there any knives, 
forks, or spoons. We were expected to squat on 
our feet and eat with chop sticks. We found It about 
as easy to do the one as the other. The experience 

[31] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

was more amusing than satisfying, though we man- 
aged to land some part of the food where intended. 
We later visited different shops where cloissonne and 
satsuma ware was being made. This is not done in 
large factories, but in obscure little places with few 
workmen. The manufacture is by hand and repre- 
sents an infinity of toil and patience. 

We returned to Kobe at four-thirty and did som.e 
running about before dark, it being after eight when 
we boarded the transport. It has been a long day 
and a hard one. We sail at ten-thirty tonight and 
will be in the Inland Sea tomorrow. 



May 20, I goo. 
Most people have heard of the Inland Sea of 
Japan, reputed to be one of the most picturesque 
bodies of water in the world. We have spent the 
entire day sailing its island-checkered course, and are 
prepared to say that its beauties have not been ex- 
aggerated. It is one maze of islands, some large 
and some mere dots, all a beautiful green and culti- 
vated to their very summits. This is done by ter- 
racing the hillsides, which, with their different crops, 
grading in color from early green to yellow harvest, 
make a scene of surpassing charm. Cosy looking 
little fishing villages nestled in the sheltered coves, 
while the sea was alive with water craft of various 
kinds. As the transport ploughed its way through 
the winding channels one view followed another so 

[32] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

rapidly that our supply of superlatives was soon 
exhausted. Just before sunset we passed through 
the straits of Shimonoseki into the open sea. There 
were not many of us, I imagine, but felt that another 
red-letter day had been added to the few such treas- 
ured in life's calendar. Tomorrow morning we 
reach Nagasaki. 



Nagasaki, May 21, igoo. 

The harbor of Nagasaki is a gem. It Is practi- 
cally land locked, and though in reality quite large, 
the hills surrounding it make it seem small. The 
town lies strung along the shore and on the lower 
ranges of the hills. As our transport anchored we 
could see three or four large liners almost within 
call, while several warships, among them the Ore- 
gon, were but a short distance away. A salute was 
fired by the latter in honor of the Commission. 

Every visitor to Nagasaki Is supposed to go to 
Mogi, and most of us did. Those who did not were 
unfortunate. Mogi is a little fishing village about 
two hours' ride by rickshaw from Nagasaki. It lies 
across the divide, and the winding road not only 
furnishes a bird's-eye view of the city and Its bay 
but brings you, after many pleasant surprises, to a 
turquoise sea on the other side. I have already 
enthused so much about Japanese landscape that an 
account of this particular trip may well be omitted. 
When I say, however, that it was one of the most 
delightful rides we have taken in Japan you will 

[33] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

understand It was worth while. We were a jolly 
crowd and the day was perfect. 

In many respects a rickshaw Is not a sociable con- 
trivance. You occupy It alone, and the practice of 
stringing out In single file makes conversation diffi- 
cult. All you see of the person ahead is his back, 
and you cannot see the person behind without twist- 
ing your neck almost out of joint. It is a condition, 
however, which sometimes saves undue embarrass- 
ment. In this happy land, and particularly In the 
country precincts, clothing is evidently worn more 
for utility than to satisfy modern conventions. As 
it Is the "good old summer time" many of the peo- 
ple dispense with most of their clothes — more, in 
fact, than orthodox practice or police surveillance 
at home would permit. The result was a series of 
living pictures somewhat startling to persons whose 
education had been along different, even if less 
logical, lines. 

We returned to the transport In the late after- 
noon and found It surrounded by a swarm of men, 
women, and children loading coal. Their method of 
handling the coal is unique. It is brought alongside 
In large barges, which also bring the aforesaid swarm 
of people. Platforms are swung down the sides of 
the vessel, upon which a line of men and women 
range themselves one above the other. The coal is 
shoveled into baskets and then tossed from hand to 
hand up this line of people until finally dumped into 
the bunkers. The baskets are not large, but as 
there is a constant stream of them going up from 

[34] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

each barge the aggregate loaded In an hour must 
be large. Notwithstanding the work Is hard and the 
pay small, everyone seemed happy and good-natured. 
It was an Interesting performance, the constant 
movement fascinating you like the break of waves on 
a shore. 

This evening there was a wonderful sunset. The 
sky lit up as with flame and the waters of the bay 
took on a strange purple hue. The sight recalled 
those lines of old Omar where he speaks of "The 
seas that mourn in flowing purple, of their Lord 
forlorn." It made a reality of what had before 
seemed a poet's fancy. 



Nagasaki, May 22, igoo. 
This day, our last in Nagasaki and Japan, was full 
of comings and goings. The old temples on the 
hilltop, the tortoise shell shops, and the tea houses, 
all had their devotees. For the evening a " Geisha " 
dance had been arranged, which quite a number at- 
tended. The place was prettily located far up the 
hillside and gave us a fine view of the city and har- 
bor as they appear at night. On entering we re- 
moved our shoes, spending the rest of the evening 
in our stocking feet. We were ushered into a large, 
beautifully decorated room, spread with the softest 
of mattings. There were no chairs, simply cushions 
on the floor. A true " Geisha " dance is really not a 
dance at all but a dinner, the different courses being 
interspersed with music and dancing by the Geisha 

Us] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

girls. As ours was a typical performance, we were 
served with a regular Japanese dinner, consisting of 
twelve or more courses. A taste of the different 
dishes sufficed for most of us, but as we were limited 
to chopsticks there was little danger of overeating. 
The Geisha girls are specially trained for their vo- 
cation from earliest childhood. Their dancing, or 
whatever it might be termed, consists of a swaying 
of the body, with a weaving of the hands and arms, 
all of which represents to them a portrayal of differ- 
ent feelings and emotions. This posturing is accom- 
panied by music upon stringed instruments, and a 
form of singing or chanting which sometimes rises to 
a weird wail — all intended to describe the develop- 
ment of the plot. The little girls who performed 
for us were dressed in the brightest and daintiest of 
kimonas, and looked like tropical flowers or sprites 
from fairyland. In the intervals of the dance they 
would sit in front of us and smile and look happy. 
The scene and experience constituted a fitting fare- 
well to Japan, for it left us with a picture that was 
bright and full of life, typical of this people. It is a 
strange and picturesque land, and that traveler must 
be blase indeed who cannot find here much to stir 
his interest and imagination. What our experiences 
have been I have tried in brief fashion to set down. 
The various side lights, however — the many amus- 
ing incidents bound to happen amid such novel sur- 
roundings — are impossible to detail. They go to 
make up the "unwritten history" of every such trip, 
and ar? the heritage of those only who share them, 

[36] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

Hong Kong, May 26, igoo. 

We reached Hong Kong late tonight, but will not 
land until morning. The four days' run from 
Nagasaki has been a delightful one. In this we 
were fortunate, as this stretch of China sea is usu- 
ally rough. After nearly two weeks of rush and 
scattered interests in Japan, it seemed good to be 
together again and resume the pleasant routine of 
ship life. As we sailed south the weather grew 
warmer and white clothes again predominated. The 
sunsets have been beautiful, that of last evening 
being a mass of deep red which streamed outward 
from the horizon, filling the whole western sky with 
wonderful cloud pictures. One of these took the 
form of a blood-red lake dotted with tiny islands, 
which kept its formation for nearly half an hour. 

We are now within touch of Asia, that ancient 
land which typifies all that is old and mysterious in 
human history. It is rather odd to feel that rivers, 
towns, and peoples we have associated so long with 
geographies and picture books have now become 
something real and palpable. Tonight we look 
across the harbor and see the lights of Hong Kong 
gleaming tier on tier far up against the skyline. It is 
a charming spectacle, and, as on that other night in 
Yeddo Bay, we wonder what the morrow will bring. 



[37] 



Ill 

HONG KONG TO MANILA 

Hong Kong, May 2y, igoo. 
T_I ONG KONG is a monument to the energy and 
■*■ ■*■ enterprise of Englishmen. In little over a 
half century what was a barren, inhospitable island, 
inhabited by a few ignorant fisher folk, has become 
a magnificent city — the trade and tourist center of 
the Far East. Through its harbor there passes an- 
nually a tonnage of ships second only to that of 
Liverpool. Its rugged and precipitous hillsides have 
been parked and terraced and are now the site of 
great business houses and beautiful homes. Splendid 
macadam roads and thoroughfares wind over and 
about the island, a tribute to the skill of English 
engineers. Along its busy streets there constantly 
passes an array of humanity as motley and pictur- 
esque as the world offers, for this far outpost of 
England is the crossroads of the nations. The town 
as seen from the harbor, or the harbor as seen from 
the town, make equally striking pictures. The fact 
that so many of the streets run up and down intro- 
duced to us a new mode of transportation — i. e., the 
sedan chair, which somehow impresses as being a 
very luxurious mode of travel. The highest point 

[38] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

of the island is known as " The Peak," and is some 
2,000 feet above the bay. It is reached by a cable 
tramway, which runs at what seems an almost im- 
possible angle. You have the feeling when riding 
it that your car is likely at any time to drop off into 
space. In seeking this tramway we told our chair 
coolies to take us to the station. Whether acting 
on past experiences, or simply through natural 
cussedness, they took us to the police station instead. 
Without arguing that we might not land there even- 
tually, we did persuade them it was not our immedi- 
ate destination. Ascending to the Peak, we had 
another of those views which seem to appeal to me 
as a bit better than anything previously seen. It 
was a bright, clear day, and the island, the city, the 
bay and its shipping, and the mainland of China 
beyond, were spread before us like a vivid chiseled 
etching. If there are finer outlooks they can easily 
be numbered. 

We took tiffin at the Peak Hotel and were served 
a number of new dishes. Among the fruits was 
the mangosteen, described by one writer as being 
the last and most perfect effort of the Creator in the 
fruit kingdom. They certainly were delicious. Most 
of the people about us were English, and we re- 
garded them with some interest as evidencing the 
effects of a tropical climate. They all had a certain 
white, washed-out look different from the usual 
ruddy English complexion. We saw in them replicas 
of what we would likely be in a couple of years. 

In the late afternoon we took rickshaws and rode 

[39] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

out to "Happy Valley," where the race course and 
the cemetery adjoin. Afterward we visited the 
purely Chinese section of the city, where we could 
well imagine ourselves separated by infinite distance 
from civilization as we had lived it. We returned to 
the Hancock in a native sampan. These boats are 
used not only for transportation but for family life 
as well. Many families, It seems, know no other 
home. Babies sprawl about the deck or dangle in 
most uncomfortable attitudes upon their mother's 
back as she wields an oar. It Is not the cleanest way 
to travel, and when seven of us got into one of them 
it was more of an experience than a joy. 



May 28, igoo. 

The weather is warm, the hottest we have yet 
experienced. The Chinese, who constitute the bulk 
of the population, go scantily clad, most of them 
wearing nothing above the waist. Many of our 
party have put in their time shopping. Hong Kong 
being a free port and prices comparatively low. This 
is particularly true of clothing and furniture, of 
which quite a supply is being secured. 

A few of us are organizing a trip to Canton, 
ninety miles up the river. The plan is to leave on 
the six o'clock boat this evening. 



May so, I goo. 
The trip to Canton was made as scheduled and 
proved the most truly oriental of anything thus far 

[40] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

seen. We were there able to realize just what is 
meant by the expression, " the teeming millions of 
the Orient." The ride up the river from Hong 
Kong was delightful. Our boat was commodious, 
and the captain, who has sailed these eastern waters 
for seventeen years, regaled us with many strange 
yarns. 

We reached Canton at six in the morning. Of 
its population of two and a half millions, it is esti- 
mated that two hundred and fifty thousand live on 
the river — that is, are born, live, and die on boats. 
The water was full of various craft, and it was a 
sight indescribable. As our boat anchored they 
flocked about us like a lot of beetles, and there 
was the noise and confusion of many tongues. 
Through the courtesy of the American Consul, who 
came down to meet Mr. and Mrs. Branagan, we all 
took breakfast at the Consulate. The foreign resi- 
dents of Canton live in a district called Shameen, 
separate from the native city, and well they need to. 
There are no vehicles In Canton proper except the 
sedan chair, the streets being too narrow to admit 
of even rickshaws. From ten in the morning until 
after four in the afternoon we saw and smelled 
Canton. For guide we had Ah Cum, well versed in 
English and the devious paths of that devil city. 

It is hard to do justice to the scenes and sensa- 
tions which came to us on that tour. Before making 
the trip I had read Kipling's account of his visit, 
appearing in From Sea to Sea. I thought he must 
have exaggerated conditions, but now I know they 

[41] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

are true. Think what it means to compress two and 
a half miUions of people within the radius of what 
would be a small-sized city in the States ! The peo- 
ple simply congest — they swarm. There are no 
parks, no wide thoroughfares. The buildings almost 
overarch the alley-like passageways, which are still 
further darkened by a plethora of multi-colored ad- 
vertising signs. Through these obscure channels 
pours a constant stream of humanity. The day was 
hot and the odors that went up from those narrow 
lanes and from that sweltering mob were something 
oppressive and appalling. Most of the people wear 
a minimum of clothing, and all we could see before 
us was a gleaming vista of human flesh and devil 
faces. They stared at us insolently, and whenever 
we stopped would crowd about us until our nerve 
was almost gone. In describing the effect created 
upon him by this scene Kipling said: " Do you know 
those horrible sponges full of worms that grow in 
warm seas? You break off a piece of it and the 
worms break, too. Canton is that sponge." At 
places the streets would be so narrow that two chairs 
could not pass and there would be a blockade. Our 
coolies, of whom there were three to each chair, 
kept yelling like fiends in an effort to clear the way. 
It was a situation where anything might have hap- 
pened without causing surprise. We visited a num- 
ber of temples, rich in fine carvings, as also shops, 
where work was being done in ivory, jade, and 
precious woods so delicate that it seemed inconceiv- 
able the human hand or human eye could be so 

[42] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

trained. At noontime we ate lunch (brought from 
the ship) on the summit of a pagoda built on the old 
city wall. To one side spread the city, simply a sea 
of housetops, without a sign of street or tree; to the 
other lay the country, apparently one vast cemetery. 
The religion of China inculcates a worship or vener- 
ation of ancestors, with the result that all their dead 
must be buried rather than cremated. In a country 
where population presses hard upon subsistence, and 
where a small tract of ground means life to thou- 
sands, immense areas are given over to graveyards. 
Not only is the land unproductive, but works of 
public utility are often blocked because of the dese- 
cration which would result to these cities of the 
dead. 

Many other strange things we saw in that most 
crowded and noisome of cities — the old water clock, 
the mortuary, the beheading ground, the prison, etc. 
It all seemed like some horrid dream, full of terri- 
fying images. That human beings can pass from 
childhood to age knowing nothing and seeing noth- 
ing but that place of gloom and awful smells seemed 
almost beyond belief. One felt that in all the wide 
world there was nothing cheaper than human life. 
It was a relief to board the boat and have fresh air 
about us again. We started down the river at four- 
thirty, and the green landscape spreading to either 
side seemed veritable Elysian fields after the Inferno 
we had left. 

Early this morning we were back in Hong Kong. 
Our trip had taken just thirty-six hours, but measur- 

[43] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Ing time by experience our raven locks might well 
have turned gray in the interim. We talked " Can- 
ton" and its unique interest so much that those who 
had neglected to make the visit soon fled our ap- 
proach. 

In the afternoon an excursion was tendered the 
Commission and staff by Mr. Gillis, a wealthy Eng- 
lishman of Hong Kong. We made a tour of the 
bay and ran out beyond the heads. The afternoon 
was pleasant and the crowd congenial. The Queen, 
the President, the Commission, the Anglo-Saxon 
alliance, our respective navies, etc., were all toasted 
with appropriate beverages and speeches. Everyone 
had a good time. 



Hong Kong, May 31, igoo. 
This is our last day in Hong Kong. The warm 
weather has reduced the pace of the party some- 
what, though the manifold charms of street and shop 
are hard to resist. In all the exploring, however, 
no one seems to have been either concerned or 
deterred by the fact that from sixty to seventy deaths 
from bubonic plague are being registered daily. 
Whether we have absorbed some of the fatalism of 
the East, or simply regard the situation as natural 
to our new life, I do not know. We have moved a 
long way though from the wild terror spread in San 
Francisco recently by the unverified report of a sin- 
gle case of plague. I remember how a rope and a 
cordon of police were thrown about Chinatown at 

[44] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

four o'clock In the morning, shutting in most of the 
cooks and house boys of the city. When it comes 
to choosing between hysteria and plague there is 
some question as to which can work the most harm. 
Tomorrow at daybreak we enter, upon the last 
stage of our journey, Manila being two days' sail 
to the southward. It is to be hoped the weather 
will not grow correspondingly hotter. White clothes 
and pith helmets are now the regulation costume of 
our party, the Hong Kong tailors having been well 
patronized. Mr. Ferguson had an experience at one 
of the shops which illustrates how literally a China- 
man follows instructions. Having a somewhat large 
waist measurement, and finding that his trousers 
made in Japan had shrunk uncomfortably, he told 
the Chinese tailor to "make them high" — dra- 
matically striking his chest in the neighborhood of 
the armpits as being about what he wanted. The 
garment was made accordingly, and is now the joy 
of everybody on board — except the owner. 



China Sea, June 2, igoo. 
We are due at Manila tomorrow. The weather 
is still warm and everyone is dressed as lightly as 
possible. We have now gotten down to the strictly 
essential, as neither style nor temperate zone conven- 
tions find much encouragement in this latitude. Per- 
sonal appearance has given way largely to personal 
comfort. The China Sea, which is usually turbu- 
lent, is as smooth as the proverbial millpond. Even 

[45] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Mr. Dominguez Is visible, undeniable proof that 
the sea Is absolutely calm. The fact of greatest 
Interest now, however, is that within a few miles of 
us He the Philippine Islands. This means not only 
new scenes and new experiences, but it means also a 
new home with new and untried tasks and responsi- 
bilities. All that has transpired thus far has been 
simply a delightful prologue to the real perform- 
ance, which begins tomorrow. As the lines for which 
we are cast are new, the stage untried, and the tem- 
per of the audience reported hostile, there is nat- 
urally some anxiety as to how things are going to 
turn out. 

The islands are now under military government, 
Major General Arthur McArthur being the Com- 
manding General and Military Governor. The Com- 
mission, which is to be the legislative body, with au- 
thority to replace military rule as fast as conditions 
warrant, does not take over its duties until Septem- 
ber I. In the interim it will study the situation and 
determine how best to meet it. What the outcome of 
the experiment will be to our country, and to the 
members of our little group, is for the prophet or 
the historian to answer. Certainly the established 
order of things has changed for both, and conditions 
can never be quite the same again with it or with us. 

We have been warned against all possible sorts of 
ills. The natives have been pictured as treacherous, 
the climate as pestilential, and earth and sky as teem- 
ing with animal life, ready, willing, and anxious to 
destroy us. The last message delivered to most of 

[46] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

us upon leaving home was: "Now, if the climate 
or conditions don't agree with you, be sure and come 
right back." We will soon know the best or the 
worst, though no one appears to have any idea how 
long we are to serve. "Two or three years" is the 
usual conjecture, which has gradually crystallized 
into the belief that we will be in the Islands at least 
two years. Well, whatever happens, or however 
long or short our stay, we have had a most glorious 
time getting here. The thought may have obtruded 
that there has been more of pleasure about our trip 
than of concern for the problems we were sent to 
solve. As to all but the immediate members of the 
Commission this is doubtless true. For them the 
different stops have afforded opportunities to learn 
of general conditions in the East and to consult and 
advise with many persons concerning the work which 
awaits at the end of the journey. The rest have 
been free to enjoy their time to the full, and the 
days have been crowded with everything calculated 
to make the experience unique and memorable. With 
a fine ship, congenial companions, and a constant 
recurrence of novel and interesting sights, there has 
been little left to desire. As Stevenson says, in 
describing certain happy incidents on his Inland Voy- 
age: " We have gained just so much upon the whole- 
sale filcher. Death." 



[47] 



IV 

MANILA AND FIRST IMPRESSIONS 

Manila June 4, igoo. 
TTT^E PASSED the Island of Corregidor, which 
* ^ marks the entrance to Manila Bay, shortly 
after daylight yesterday. Everyone was on the qui 
vive to get a first glimpse of the place and the peo- 
ple with whose fortunes we are soon to be so 
strangely united. It is thirty miles from Corregidor 
to Manila, which gives you an idea of the size of the 
bay. On our left as we entered were the mountains 
of Mariveles, and further on to the right was Cavite, 
where Dewey sank the Spanish fleet. We could see 
the hulks and projecting masts of a number of the 
wrecks as we passed. Manila has no docks, and the 
Hancock was compelled to anchor about a mile from 
shore. Viewed from that distance the city lay 
almost at the water level, with a range of rather hazy 
mountains in the far background. With the excep- 
tion of the domes and spires of numerous churches, 
and a line of white houses along the shore, very 
little could be seen from the ship. 

After satisfying the quarantine officials that we 
were In good health and spirits the yellow flag came 
down and visitors began to arrive. These included 

[48] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

various delegations of Filipinos, military officers and 
newspaper men. The Filipinos wore frock coats 
and silk hats and made quite a distinguished show- 
ing. Among them were members of the Supreme 
Court and various men of prominence who have 
allied themselves with the American cause. Greet- 
ings and expressions of good will were duly ex- 
changed, Mr. Ferguson acting as interpreter. His 
fluent and sonorous Spanish, interspersed with well- 
timed shrugs and gestures, doubtless convinced his 
hearers that " we were armed and well prepared." 
Our native visitors created a decidedly favorable 
impression both in appearance and in their ease of 
manner and expression. 

Later In the day the Commission went ashore to 
return the call of the Military Governor and locate 
houses for themselves and families. As there are 
no good hotels here, most of the party has remained 
on the Hancock pending some arrangement for quar- 
ters elsewhere. This question of a place to live Is 
now the prevailing topic. As the supply of really 
desirable houses in Manila never seems to have been 
plentiful, the advent of our army and Its following 
has pretty well exhausted everything In sight. It 
appears also that the best accommodations offered 
have many unexpected features — such as having the 
stable under the house, mediaeval plumbing, and like 
novelties. When to these drawbacks are added some 
dirt and some dilapidation you have a combination 
to drive the average American housewife to tears. 
I am fortunately saved the worry of an individual 

[49] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

search, having been invited to make my home with 
Commissioner and Mrs. Moses. As for the rest, 
well, "time and the hour run through the longest 
day." 

Before closing I would add that it has been and 
still is hot. Everybody looks wilted. If the past two 
days are a fair sample of what we are to expect there 
will be little left of us in two years. Last night 
there was a general exodus from the cabins onto the 
deck, which early resembled a huge dormitory. We 
have been somewhat heartened, however, by the as- 
surance that this is the culmination of the "hot sea- 
son," and that the climate is generally quite pleas- 
ant. It is so usual, however, to picture things of 
this nature as exceptional that we are by no means 
convinced. 



Manila, June 12, igoo. 
Everybody is now ashore and located, though not 
altogether settled. We have already learned that 
things don't "settle" very quickly here, but require 
time and abundant patience. Very little has been 
done thus far beyond getting some first hand impres- 
sions of Manila and of the life into which we have 
been plunged. There is certainly plenty of novelty 
and strangeness about it. To most of us, as to peo- 
ple in the States generally, army life and all that 
pertains to it have been a sealed book. Here, how- 
ever, it is an ever-present reality, the city being a 
huge military camp swarming with khaki-clad sol- 

[50] 




The Author and His Daughter 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

diers. They patrol the streets, guard the public 
buildings, and perform all the functions of govern- 
ment. We go to bed to the sound of taps, and wake 
to hear the bugles sounding reveille. Military au- 
thority is supreme — omnipotent. To be on the 
streets after ten at night is presumptive evidence of 
treason, anyone found abroad after that hour with- 
out a pass being hustled to the guardhouse. The 
talk you hear is of " insurrectos," and of fighting 
here and fighting there. Manila itself, while per- 
fectly quiet, is disturbed by constant rumors of con- 
templated attacks. It was currently reported and 
believed that a demonstration against the city was 
to follow the arrival of the Commission — just a 
little something to show how welcome we were. 
Thus far, however, nothing has happened. We find 
the army view of the situation decidedly pessimistic. 
They think it will take years to crush the insurrection 
and restore public order. This would mean the 
indefinite continuance of mlHtary rule — a prospect 
apparently much more alluring to many of our ofli- 
cers than the advent of civil government. 

Manila has an estimated population of over two 
hundred and fifty thousand, scattered over quite an 
extensive area. The city is bisected by the River 
Pasig, which is alive with launches, coasting vessels, 
and native cascoes and bancas. On the south bank 
I of the river is the old Walled City, known as "In- 
tramuros" (within walls), while to the north is the 
general shopping district. There are very few stores 
in the walled city, which is given over largely to 

[51] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

churches, convents, schools, government offices, and 
scattered private dwellings. The walls, which are 
massive and well preserved, are surrounded by a 
deep moat and penetrated by a number of pictur- 
esque gates, protected by drawbridges. These lat- 
ter are still in working order, the place having af- 
forded a refuge to the public in times of trouble up 
to that August day when our troops scaled its walls. 
The buildings crowded within this enclosure are 
time-worn and discolored, and as you walk its nar-. 
row streets, and catch glimpses of the hidden, mys- 
terious life behind the ponderous doors and grated 
balconies, you can well Imagine the centuries have 
been arrested and you are back in the days of 
Charlemagne or Charles the Bold. The city outside 
the walls, however, has no such reposeful air. Its 
streets being thronged with people and vehicles of 
all kinds. The natives, though not particularly pre- 
possessing, have an alert carriage, with something 
of the Spaniard's suavity and grace of manner. The 
men of the lower class dress In white cotton trousers 
and a more or less transparent shirt, usually worn 
outside the trousers. The costume of the women 
consists of a sort of waist with wide sleeves and a 
rather narrow skirt — bright colors predominating. 
Shoes and stockings seem to be almost unknown; 
the nearest approach to the former being a sort of 
slipper without heels called chinelas. Small chil- 
dren either wear no clothes, or what they do flourish 
is so abbreviated and transparent as to excite won- 
der why they wear anything at all. The upper 

[52] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

classes dress much as we do, except that the native 
women and those of mixed blood, known as 
Mestizas, wear a waist with stiff, billowy sleeves, 
and a skirt tailed something like a beaver. As most 
of the Spaniards in the islands were connected either 
with the army or the civil administration, and left 
soon after the Treaty of Paris, the Spanish element 
is small. There are quite a number of Chinese and 
a marked sprinkling of other nationalities. There 
are also racial blends whose ancestral trees ramify 
to every quarter of the globe. 

The transportation facilities are decidedly poor. 
There is a horse car line, but the cars are so few 
and small and the service so irregular that even in 
this land of mahana it is a byword. There are no 
rickshaws. The public vehicles for hire consist of 
small, two-wheeled rattletraps known as carromatas, 
with an occasional broken down Victoria. These 
are drawn by diminutive horses, driven by a set 
of indolent cocheros, who seem utterly indifferent 
whether they secure a fare or not. At noontime 
most of them absolutely refuse a passenger, protest- 
ing they must go and chow. As the distances are 
great, and walking uncomfortable, everyone who 
can afford it keeps a vehicle of some sort. There 
are in evidence also large army wagons, drawn by 
towering American mules — which usually crowd 
everything else to the curb — intermixed with a trail- 
ing procession of carabao carts. The carabao is a 
large, meek, ungainly animal, with wide branching 
horns — the beast of burden of the islands. His 

[53] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

gait is that of the proverbial snail, and it is said he 
sets the pace for the people. As a result of all this 
traffic, the streets, none too wide, are in a state of 
constant turmoil and congestion. 

There are few buildings in the city more than two 
stories high, due partly to the fact that ground is 
plentiful and also to fear of earthquakes. The 
various public buildings and churches, which abound, 
are well constructed, some of the latter being quite 
imposing. Most of the dwelling houses are built 
flush with the sidewalk and their exterior is not at- 
tractive. Small, flat shells are used for window 
panes and serve the purpose admirably, shutting 
out as they do much of the heat and glare. The 
better class houses, being mostly windows, can be 
thrown open to almost any extent desired. Ordi- 
nary native houses are built of bamboo with a roof 
of nipa palm, and have every appearance of comfort 
at small cost. The frame houses of the wealthy and 
the nipa shacks of the lowly adjoin, there being, 
apparently, no well defined residence section. There 
is a noticeable lack of parks and gardens, nor is there 
that luxuriant vegetation one associates with the 
tropics and which we saw in such abundance in Hono- 
lulu. Few of the streets are shaded, something in- 
excusable in a warm climate, where very little effort 
would accomplish so much. Possibly the disturbed 
condition of the country during recent years is partly 
responsible for this. 

Different from Mexico and other countries ruled 
by Spain, Spanish has not become the prevailing 

[54] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

language of the people. It is estimated that less 
than five per cent of the population speak and read 
Spanish, the rest being limited to their local dialects. 
In and about Manila the people are Tagalogs, who, 
having come into somewhat close contact with Span- 
ish influence, are said to be more ambitious and rest- 
less than the other tribes. Many different important 
dialects are spoken throughout the islands, a fact 
which renders any real union of the people at this 
time extremely difficult, if not impossible. 

Shopping is quite a problem. Most of the retail 
business is done by Chinese, Spaniards, and East In- 
dians, Filipinos being in a decided minority. In but 
few stores do they speak English, while In none do 
they seem to have what you want or be able to direct 
you where to get it. There are two or three Amer- 
ican commercial houses, but their trade Is confined 
largely to liquors and canned goods. The army 
people get most of their supplies from the commis- 
sary and quartermaster departments — a privilege 
extended to the Commission and staff for the pres- 
ent. The large import and export houses of the 
Islands are mostly German, English, and Swiss, with 
one Spanish concern known as the " Compania 
Tabacalera." I imagine these foreigners do not 
relish our occupation very much, as It has seriously 
hampered their business. For over a year now most 
of the Island ports have been closed to commerce In 
an effort to shut out Insurgent supplies — offering a 
strong Incentive for contraband. 

Health conditions are fairly good, certainly when 

[55] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

compared with what they are reported to have been 
when we took Manila. There is some bubonic 
plague, and more or less smallpox — the latter being 
endemic. The prevailing trouble, however, is dysen- 
tery, of which there seems to be a great deal. It is 
said that if you are careful what you eat and drink, 
and live a regular life, you can be as well here as 
anywhere. The only trouble about this is that you 
cannot always be sure just what you are eating and 
drinking. 

About the only diversion we have is driving on 
the Luneta and Malecon. The Luneta is a large 
oval on the bay shore, where the band plays in the 
evening. The Malecon is a palm-bordered drive- 
way about a mile long, extending along the bay 
from the Luneta to the river. Between six and 
seven-thirty there is a constant procession of car- 
riages moving to and fro, or anchored at some spot 
convenient to the music. At that hour the land 
breeze cools the air, and the sun, sinking behind 
the mountains of Mariveles, paints wonderful pic- 
tures in sea and sky. Everyone you know is in evi- 
dence, and informal visits from carriage to carriage 
are en regie. Among Americans the mihtary element 
predominates. There are more Captains, Majors, 
and Colonels here than we had any idea existed be- 
fore our coming. They make a fine appearance in 
their white dress uniforms, the few scattered civilians 
in plain duck being quite inconspicuous in compari- 
son. The ladies — of whom there are already quite 
a number: — all dress in white, and most of them 

[56] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

very sensibly dispense with hats. Altogether it is an 
animated scene and one of the most delightful fea- 
tures of Manila life. The program closes each eve- 
ning with the "Star-Spangled Banner," when every- 
one uncovers and stands at attention. It takes some 
such environment as this — a strange land with an 
atmosphere of war — to make one properly appreci- 
ate just what our country and our flag really mean 
to us. He would certainly be a poor American who 
did not thrill as he heard the strains of that final tri- 
umphant melody swell out upon the tropic night, and 
thought of all the heroism and sacrifice its music 
spells. The feeling stirred has something of conse- 
cration about it, and leaves you a better American, 
and more jealous of your country's welfare and 
honor than you were before. There is one song 
though which we have not heard and which the band 
never plays — i.e., "Home, Sweet Home." Home- 
sickness is too present and real a thing among our 
people here to either require or stand any artificial 
stimulant. As to theaters and similar attractions, 
the ten o'clock curfew law effectually eliminates them 
for the present. 

Commissioner and Mrs. Moses have secured a 
house on the bay shore just beyond the Luneta. We 
are now In the throes of painting, plumbing, etc., the 
different workmen being imbued with the idea evi- 
dently that it is to be a hfe job. With the excep- 
tion of mosquitoes we have not found the insect life 
either numerous or voracious. Mosquito netting, 
however, is indispensable for the beds. The first 

[57] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

few nights we were without It, and the experience 
was trying upon our disposition and our religion. 
The regulation Filipino bed is of split bamboo on 
which you spread a fiber mat and a sheet. Some 
pretend to like them and claim they would use none 
other. For a beginner, however, it is like sleeping 
on a board, which is not agreeable for a thin person 
with exposed angles. 

The hot season is still " culminating," and it would 
require great optimism to pronounce it comfortable. 



[58] 




Provincial Transportation, Carabao Sled 




Gate, Walled City 



EARLY INCIDENTS AND PROBLEMS 

Manila, July i, igoo. 
^ I ^HE Commission is now installed in the Ayun- 
-*■ tamiento — the old " Palacio " or government 
building in the Walled City. It is also the military 
headquarters and furnishes a scene of activity such 
as was never witnessed by the old Spanish Dons, 
whose portraits still adorn its walls. From all ac- 
counts, administrative affairs ran a very leisurely 
and sleepy course under the old regime. For nearly 
three hundred years Spain ruled the Islands with 
little or no protest from the natives, and with but 
two or three slight differences with outsiders. At 
the time of our occupation, however, the islands were 
and had been for some years in a state of insurrec- 
tion, the scattered uprisings of the people having 
finally merged into the more or less general revolu- 
tion of 1896. The events following our occupation 
are familiar history. The people, already in arms, 
and misled as to our purposes by both church and 
secular bodies, were persuaded to rise against our 
authority. Hostilities opened with the outbreak of 
February 4, 1899, and gradually extended through- 
out most of the Christian provinces of the Archi- 

[59] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

pelago. Our forces were steadily increased until 
there are now between sixty and seventy thousand 
American troops in the islands, divided into five hun- 
dred or more detachments. Following the capture 
of the insurgent capital at Malolos, and the going of 
Aguinaldo into hiding, all organized resistance 
ended, the fighting thereafter degenerating into that 
most trying of all struggles, guerrilla warfare. 

When it is remembered that almost every native 
is or was actively or passively arrayed against us; 
that the climate is a tropical one, where heat, and 
storm, and disease wait upon the path of our sol- 
diers; that they are fighting upon unfamiliar ground, 
most of which is mountainous or rank with jungle 
growth ; that they are ignorant of the language of the 
people and are compelled to rely for information 
upon the uncertain testimony of native guides and 
interpreters, some conception may be had not only 
of the difficulties encountered but of the fortitude 
and courage displayed in meeting them. The great- 
est trouble has been not in routing scattered insur- 
gent bands, but in protecting those natives who, 
sincerely or otherwise, profess adherence to our 
cause. Such natives are truly between the devil and 
the deep sea. Unless they take the oath of allegiance 
they are considered and treated as " insurrectos," 
while if they do take such oath they are treated as 
" Americanistas " by the insurgent element and sub- 
jected to all sorts of barbarous treatment. In Ma- 
nila there are many natives who realize not only 
that armed resistance is useless, but who are con- 

[60] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

vinced of our good intentions toward them. Such 
also exist outside Manila, but hesitate to publicly 
proclaim their belief for fear of violence. The 
immediate problem is to create a situation where 
those in favor of peace can safely say so, and can 
argue with their brethren in the field not only that 
our intentions arc good but, by pointing to accom- 
plished facts, show the advantage of accepting our 
authority. It is very doubtful if the mass of the 
people have any Interest in or desire to continue the 
insurrection. They know little, and probably care 
less, about "independence," "equality," and "popu- 
lar government." They know not what the terms 
mean. The struggle is largely inspired and pro- 
longed by an influential few, some of whom are 
doubtless sincere, but the majority of whom hope to 
ride into place and power upon the heels of our 
withdrawal. To convince these leaders, therefore, 
not only of the futility of their efforts, but that they 
will have an opportunity to participate in a govern- 
ment organized by us will go far toward ending 
hostilities. 

The Commission, shortly after its arrival, issued 
an announcement outlining generally the scope of its 
powers and the policy it would pursue. It was 
stated that the members of the Commission were 
men of peace and that their work would be confined 
to regions in which armed resistance had ceased. To 
such of the people as laid down their arms assurance 
was given that they would have a full hearing as to 
contemplated reforms, and could rely upon the jus- 

[6i] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

tice, generosity, and clemency of the United States 
in Its dealings with them. Suggestions were invited 
from Filipinos, and from others, as to needed 
changes in legislation and in the organization of the 
various departments of government. In the interim 
until September the various subjects calling for 
investigation were assigned to the different Commis- 
sioners as follows: 

Taft — The civil service, the friars, and public 
lands. 

Worcester — Municipal corporations, forestry, 
agriculture, mining, and public health. 

Wright — Internal Improvements, franchises, 
militia, police and criminal code. 

Ide — Code civil procedure, courts, banks and 
currency, and registration laws. 

Moses — Schools and taxation. 

Taft, Wright, and Ide — Civil code. 

The Commission — Central, departmental, and 
provincial governments. 

It will be seen that the undertaking before the 
Commission involves not only winning the confidence 
of an alien and a resentful people, but the building 
of a government from Its very foundations — a 
task seriously complicated by the unfortunate mate- 
rial conditions of the country, and hindered and em- 
barrassed by the tirades of party politicians and mis- 
taken theorists at home. Even here the Commission 
is apparently destined to be without cordial support 
from those upon whom It should be able to rely. It 
was natural that the natives should not receive us 

[62] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

with open arms, but there was every reason to believe 
our army brethren would welcome the cooperation 
of the Commission in restoring orderly government, 
and would work in harmony with it. Instead, we 
have found the atmosphere at the military end of 
the corridor decidedly chilly, our welcome being 
severely restricted to what the "regulations" pre- 
scribe. Whether it is beeause they are jealous of 
dividing their power, or because they consider the 
appointment of the Commission a reflection upon 
their ability to handle the situation (a statement 
attributed to the Military Governor), the fact re- 
mains that we are regarded by most army officers as 
interlopers. They seem to have marked the place 
for their own indefinitely. 



Manila, July 15, igoo. 
We are now enjoying some of the delightful 
weather promised us on arrival. The rains are here, 
cooling the air and washing the sky into a deep blue, 
unlike anything seen in northern climes. We have 
had two typhoons, but aside from a torrential down- 
pour of rain they proved harmless. Despite the 
lower temperature there is no call for anything but 
the lightest clothes. The other day the Commission- 
ers made some formal call dressed in frock coats 
and silk hats, and returned to the Ayuntamiento 
heated throughout and dripping with perspiration. 
When they went into session. Judge Taft, as chair- 
man, called for a resolution to the effect that there- 

[63] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

after, no matter what the occasion, frock coats and 
silk hats be neither worn nor required. With some 
slight protest from Commissioner Ide, whose resi- 
dence in "Samoa" has won him the position of 
censor in matters of official etiquette, the resolution 
was adopted. If adhered to it will prove quite a 
departure from the pomp and splendor with which 
officialdom arrayed Itself in the old days. 

The month and a half in Manila has already 
begun to work changes in the Commission house- 
hold. The position of Secretary, which was vacant, 
has been given to our Spanish Secretary, Mr. Fer- 
gusson, who will fill both places. Mr. A. R. Cotton 
of San Francisco, now of Manila, has been added 
to the translating department, while Mr. Beekman 
Winthrop of Boston, en route around the world, has 
temporarily joined forces with us. Dr. F. W. Atkin- 
son of Massachusetts has been appointed Superin- 
tendent of Public Instruction, and is now on the 
ground. Mr. Coffman, Judge Taft's private secre- 
tary, left for the States on the last transport. As 
there is no " secretary" material in Manila, I recom- 
mended Mr. Fred Carpenter of San Francisco for 
the place, and he was cabled for accordingly. There 
is some fitness in all this, for it was Carpenter who 
first suggested that I apply for a position with the 
Commission. 

There is much excitement now over the Boxer 
outbreak in China and the fate of the legations at 
Pekln. Two regiments of troops have gone forward 
from Manila and will be among the first in the field. 

[64] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

This is one advantage at least of having soldiers in 
this part of the world. 

The Fourth of July was celebrated in Manila, the 
Declaration of Independence being read in both 
Enghsh and Spanish. While "expansion" may be 
all right, and while our attitude toward this people 
is doubtless the result of inevitable necessity and for 
their ultimate good, it nevertheless seems like rub- 
bing it in a bit to spring the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence on them at this time. They may appre- 
ciate eventually that it is our purpose to give them 
all the rights for which that document stands, and 
in far greater measure than they could themselves 
achieve, but until that time comes it would seem good 
taste not to shout so loudly about what our ancestors 
did in 1776. The Commissioners took this view of 
the case, and were roundly criticised therefor by the 
American press of Manila. They were told that 
"lost opportunities never return," meaning, doubt- 
less, that they would be taboo from now on. 



Manila, August i, igoo. 
Sometime in June the Military Governor, acting 
under instructions from Washington, issued an Am- 
nesty Proclamation whereby all natives in arms were 
granted ninety days within which to present them- 
selves and take oath of allegiance to the United 
States. To those who took such oath full pardon 
was promised for past offenses and a fresh start 
guaranteed. A number of prominent natives have 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

availed themselves of the opportunity, among them 
one Pedro A. Paterno, who was President of the 
Filipino Congress at Malolos. He has the reputa- 
tion of being an able man, but decidedly unreliable. 
In a burst of apparent gratitude over the granting 
of the Amnesty, he announced that he would give a 
" Fiesta " to celebrate the event, such fiesta to consist 
of a parade, illuminations, arches, and a banquet in 
honor of the Military Governor. This celebration 
went into history two days since, and it will likely 
be a long time before the echoes die away. It will 
be recalled that the Amnesty was based upon the 
unconditional acknowledgment of our sovereignty 
in the islands. Upon two or three of the arches, 
however, the pictures of Aguinaldo and McKinley 
were placed side by side, while most of the other 
arches bore inscriptions signifying " Independence 
under an American Protectorate." The military 
authorities removed the pictures of Aguinaldo, but 
permitted the inscriptions to remain. The parade 
did not prove a great success, most of the people 
evidently considering such a public expression of 
their allegiance premature — whatever they may 
have confessed privately. Invitations to the banquet 
were extended the Military Governor and the Com- 
mission. The Military Governor declined, but the 
Commission accepted as guests after being assured 
by the Military Governor that the speeches to be 
delivered had been censored. It chanced, however, 
that late In the afternoon of the day set for the 
banquet the Commission learned that most of the 

[66] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

proposed speeches advocated the granting of Philip- 
pine independence. A letter was thereupon dis- 
patched to Seiior Paterno stating that no American 
with authority to speak had ever by a single word 
held out the idea that we would grant independence 
to the islands; that it was impossible for the Com- 
missioners to be present at a banquet where such 
a thing was suggested and by their presence lend 
countenance to it. That if they did come they would 
be compelled to rise and denounce any such scheme, 
and rather than do this on an occasion where people 
should be convivial, they must withdraw their accept- 
ance. In the meantime it appears the Provost Mar- 
shal had issued orders that there should be no 
speeches, while the Military Governor had instructed 
that no banquet at all be given unless some member 
of the Commission was present. Having declined to 
be present himself, it is still unexplained why he 
should attempt to saddle the burden of a possible 
fiasco upon the Commission. This ultimatum 
reached Paterno late in the eveninf. His guests 
had assembled, the banquet was spread, and he held 
in his hand the notice of the Commissioners with- 
drawing their acceptance. In this dilemma he posted 
to Judge Taft's house — where Commissioner 
Wright is also stopping — and implored them with 
tears to come and save the affair from utter failure. 
This they finally did, reaching the banquet room 
about 9 :30, the guests having been waiting over two 
hours. The affair, under the circumstances, was not 
particularly hilarious. The skeleton had obtruded 

[67] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

and could not be exorcised. Copies of the proposed 
speeches were later secured, and it would seem all 
of them must have been written by one person. 
Without exception they advocated Philippine inde- 
pendence in some form, a refusal of which nearly 
two years ago precipitated the present struggle. One 
of the proposed speeches, which will serve as a 
sample of the rest, is as follows : 

The solution of great problems, gentlemen, are 
celebrated with great banquets, because it must be 
conceded, however much it may deride the human 
race, that satisfaction is full and complete only when 
the soul and body experience it simultaneously. And 
for a better reason my joy verges upon delirium in 
these awe-inspiring moments, inasmuch as I hope, 
with the great faith of well-founded optimism, that 
the splendor of joyousness may form itself into a 
beautiful rainbow of approaching happiness and 
peace. Yes, gentlemen, I seem to see the carrier 
dove with the branches in its beak, coming toward 
us across the deluge of tears, inundating the father- 
land. 

But in proportion as my satisfaction increases at 
this moment, my soul turns to our desolated moun- 
tains, endeavoring to gather as holy relics the long- 
ing sighs of so many unknown martyrs there suffer- 
ing untold sorrows; my soul longs to garner the 
echoes of those mountains, and here in this joyous 
banquet to interpret them. But, for what purpose ? 
Why these yearnings we feel? One ideal, one sole 
ideal, unites and enkindles the consciences of the 
good Filipinos. 

But I must gather those sighs and translate those 
echoes, that both the sighs and echoes may reach 

[68] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

the supreme authorities of the North American 
nation, in order that they may be impressed upon 
the spirit of that great people. 

Magnanimous people ! Thou who didst raise the 
formerly unhappy Liberia to the rank of a free and 
independent state; thou who has shed thy blood to 
redeem thousands and thousands of men from 
slavery; thou who enlightenest the world with the 
torch of liberty; thou nation, great and powerful 
nation, be the protector of the Filipino people; let 
them be protected by the ideals of liberty and inde- 
pendence and hear the fervent voice of eternal grat- 
itude; forever wilt thou hear in the Malayan ambi- 
ent, in the mountains, and in the forest, these soul 
cries: "Long live North America, protector of the 
incipient Philippine nationality." 

Just what Paterno's purpose was in all this is 
not clear. Whether he and the other promoters of 
the affair did not understand the oath they had 
taken, or whether they hoped to place the Commis- 
sion at a disadvantage, remains a question. Likely 
the latter. 

Another recent occurrence also illustrates what 
vague notions the brightest of these people have of 
what self-government involves. Among the most 
influential of the natives now imprisoned in Manila, 
and who refuse to take the oath of allegiance, is 
Apolinario Mabini. He is a paralytic, something of 
a student, and is credited with having been the brains 
of the Insurrection. A few days ago he expressed 
a desire for an Interview with the Commission. 
Thinking possibly he was paving the way to accept 

[69] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

the changed order of things, a meeting was ar- 
ranged. He is a thin, pale, ascetic-looking man, and 
as he was wheeled into the presence of the Commis- 
sion his appearance inspired sympathy, as also a 
belief that his attitude was sincere. When asked his 
purpose in seeking an interview, he entered into a 
long dissertation concerning the principles of free- 
dom, liberty, equality, and the inherent right of indi- 
viduals and races to shape their own destiny. The 
picture drawn by him was a beautiful one from the 
standpoint of a student philosopher dealing with 
abstract and purely theoretical problems. Every 
effort, however, to get him to discuss the question 
as applied to concrete conditions in the islands 
proved futile. He seemed obsessed with the idea 
that because all peoples are endowed with certain 
primary and admitted rights, any attempt to regu- 
late the exercise of those rights by others was unjus- 
tifiable. Finally Judge Taft said to him: "But 
suppose, Senor Mabini, the Americans should with- 
draw and this freedom of which you speak be 
granted you, what then? Your country is composed 
of many scattered islands, some of them inhabited 
by savages and all of them by people speaking dif- 
ferent dialects and without any cohesion of ideas 
or experience In government. You occupy an ex- 
posed and coveted position in the path of world 
commerce, and would doubtless be called upon very 
soon to defend your nationality. You have many 
foreigners living here, for whose lives and property 
you would be held accountable not only from outside 

[70] 




•s 

o 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

interference, but from the ambitions and jealousies 
of your own people. To protect your country from 
these dangers you would need an army of consider- 
able strength and at least the nucleus of a navy. All 
these things, together with the necessary expenses 
of government, would cost a great deal of money. 
Your country and people are poor and your indus- 
tries paralyzed. Waiving, therefore, all question 
of your ability to govern yourselves, I would ask 
how you propose to raise the revenues necessary to 
preserve and administer such a government?" To 
this inquiry Mabini simply shrugged his shoulders 
and replied: "The question of revenue is a mere 
detail." With this the interview ended. The lesson 
is one which our so-called "anti-imperialists" resid- 
ing in Boston and elsewhere might study to advan- 
tage. They, like Mabini, reason altogether from 
the theoretical standpoint, shutting their eyes to con- 
ditions as they actually exist and must be met. For 
Mabini there is the excuse of ignorance and inex- 
perience; for them there is no excuse, as their atti- 
tude is the result either of political expediency or of 
a narrow provincialism which judges everything by 
the standards of a particular environment. 



Manila, August 14, igoo. 
Commissioners Worcester and Wright have just 
returned from Baguio, Province of Benguet, where 
they have been investigating the possibility of estab- 
lishing a "summer resort" for people living in the 

[71] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

lowlands. They are enthusiastic about the place, 
and their report is fraught with vital interest to 
every American whom circumstance may call to pass 
his life on this our far-flung frontier. If statistics 
are to be accepted, the constant high temperature of 
the tropics gradually saps the energy and vitality of 
the white races, leaving them broken in health or 
ready victims for the numerous germs and microbes 
with which air and water abound. It has been stated 
also that a warm climate loosens the moral fiber, and 
causes a rapid degeneracy in the ordinary standards 
of conduct. It was President Jordan of Stanford 
University — who opposes our expansion policy — 
who said that if a Methodist missionary and a New 
England schoolmarm should marry and live in the 
tropics, the third generation would ride bareback on 
a burro to see a cock fight on Sunday. However 
this may be, there is no question but that a tropical 
climate is enervating, and that an occasional change 
is Imperative If health and strength are to be pre- 
served. This ordinarily means a long and costly 
journey, the separation of families, and all sorts of 
Inconvenience. Bagulo, which has an elevation of 
over five thousand feet, and is set In the heart of 
pine forests. Is reported to have a climate as cool and 
bracing as that of our northern states. At present 
It can be reached only by a circuitous route over 
rough mountain trails. It lies, however, but fifty 
miles from Dagupan, the terminus of a railway line 
running from Manila. By constructing a wagon or 
rail line from this point Bagulo will be made easily 

[72] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

accessible, and we shall have this " Simla " of the 
Philippines at oirT very doors. The Commission, 
realizing the importance of the project, plans to 
commence construction work as early as practicable. 
Another difficult and somewhat embarrassing 
problem facing the Commission is that of the Friar 
Orders in their relation to these people. While at 
first glance this might seem a purely religious mat- 
ter, with which the government has no concern, the 
situation here makes It a political question of the 
gravest character. As a matter of fact, the different 
uprisings of the people during the late regime were 
directed not so much against Spanish sovereignty 
as against what they considered the intolerable 
abuses of the government as represented by the 
Friars. During the uprising of 1895 some forty 
Friars were killed, and at the time of our occupation 
more than four hundred were held prisoners by the 
Filipinos. One of the first acts of the Philippine 
Congress at Malolos was to confiscate the large land 
holdings of the religious orders. Now that we have 
assumed control, the question of protecting these 
orders in their legal rights, and at the same time 
satisfying the people that we are not siding with 
those whom they consider enemies, becomes a most 
delicate one. President McKInley, in dealing with 
the matter In his Instructions to the Commission, 
said: 

It will be the duty of the Commission to make a 
thorough investigation Into the titles to the large 
tracts of land held or claimed by individuals or by 

[73] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

religious orders; into the justice of the claims and 
complaints made against such landholders by the 
people of the islands, or any part of the people, and 
to seek by wise and peaceable measures a just settle- 
ment of the controversies, and redress of the 
wrongs, which have caused strife and bloodshed in 
the past. In the performance of this duty the Com- 
mission is enjoined to see that no injustice is done; 
to have regard for substantial right and equity, dis- 
regarding technicalities so far as substantial right 
permits. 

During the past three weeks Judge Taft has had 
interviews with the heads of the various religious 
orders, and with prominent Filipinos, in an effort to 
reach an understanding of the powers exercised and 
claimed by the Friars, and the ground of resentment 
against them. Much interesting testimony has been 
secured. It is somewhat difficult for people at home, 
accustomed to consider religion a matter of purely 
personal concern, to adjust their mental vision to the 
true situation in these islands. The history of Span- 
ish conquest In the Far East, no less than in the New 
World, is Inextricably mingled with that of the 
Church of Rome. The soldier and the priest 
marched together and the crucifix held what the 
sword had gained. It has been Spain's evil fortune, 
however, to find in her powerful ally of conquest, 
and in the force which cemented the triumph of her 
arms, one of the most potent factors of her own 
downfall. The support of her wonderful years of 
expansion became In time a rigid frame which re- 
morselessly shut out all power of change or further 

[74] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

progress, and in the upheaval which time inevitably 
brought her colonies were lost and the fabric of the 
church shaken to its foundations. 

Upon the advent of Spain to the Philippines the 
church found a virgin field for her efforts. The 
religious beliefs of the people were few and simple, 
lacking altogether the rigidity which characterizes 
the systems prevalent in India, China, and other 
Oriental countries. The people accepted readily the 
forms and ceremonies of the new faith and became 
converted en masse. Churches and convents sprang 
up throughout the islands, and much was done 
toward the moral and intellectual development of 
the people. With time, however, the missionary 
zeal which characterized and inspired the early 
churchmen gave way in large measure to more 
earthly considerations and to a mistaken system of 
government policy. The Monastic Orders which 
had early appeared in the field, and into whose 
hands fell the church government, soon devoted 
themselves more to extending their own power and 
influence, and to exploiting the people and country 
to add to their own wealth and prestige, than to any 
high considerations looking to the spiritual develop- 
ment of their parishioners. The ranks of such or- 
ders were recruited too often from among the lower 
classes in Spain, to whom a distant field and isolated 
parishes meant simply an opportunity to tyrannize 
over a simple people and to gratify their own desires 
and passions unchecked. 

The full scope of the power and influence wielded 

[75] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

by the Friar priest in the interior pueblos of the 
islands can hardly be realized by one unfamiliar with 
Filipino character and Filipino history. To a natu- 
rally docile disposition the mass of the Filipinos added 
the passivity which comes from credulous ignorance, 
rank superstition, and awe of those in authority — a 
condition which the church and government systems 
did little to ameliorate. The native dialects, which 
possess little or no literature, were taught almost 
exclusively in the parishes, instruction being limited 
in most cases to the catechism and church dogma. 
Only the small percentage of persons able to attend 
the Manila schools ever acquired a knowledge of 
Spanish or of a world outside the confines of their 
particular towns. This system was based, it is said, 
upon the theory that by confining the people to their 
own dialects, and shutting to them the pages of his- 
tory, the possibility of concerted action upon their 
part against either church or state authorities was 
minimized. 

Given the above condition of affairs, coupled with 
the natural actions of men of ordinary human pas- 
sions when invested with practically unlimited power, 
and the result is not difficult to imagine. The priest 
controlled and dominated the people not only by the 
power which comes from superior race and superior 
education, but he held In his hands as a scourge for 
those who questioned his words or his deeds the 
threat and fear of Imprisonment or banishment 
here and the terrible tortures and torments of the 
damned In the hereafter. Neither Spain's army In 

[76] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

the islands nor her civil official roll was ever very 
large. For this reason, and because the church was 
a state institution, churchmen played a large part 
in governmental affairs. The priests were subsi- 
dized by the state, practically all of them receiving 
a regular allowance from the government treasury. 
In a vast number of towns the priest was the only 
representative of Spanish sovereignty, being not only 
the intermediary between the government and the 
people, but performing as well the duties of an offi- 
cial. The strong arm of the state, with its mysteri- 
ous power to banish, imprison, and kill, was always 
back of him, making his authority a menace and a 
dread. So strong, in fact, did the religious corpora- 
tions finally become, and so powerful was their in- 
fluence throughout the islands, that the civil author- 
ities became subordinate, and the tenure of that gov- 
ernor or officer who dared oppose their will was 
short. It is not altogether strange that this tremen- 
dous influence given into their hands was too often 
abused. 

Concubinage on the part of priests with the 
women of their parishes was of frequent occurrence, 
and many prominent Filipinos today trace their 
Spanish blood to this source and speak openly of the 
fact. In referring to this phase of the subject in an 
interview with Judge Taft, Don Felipe Calderon, 
a leading attorney of Manila, said: 

With respect to their morality in general, it was 
such a common thing to see children of Friars that 

[77] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

no one ever paid any attention to it or thought of it, 
and so depraved had the people become in this 
regard that the women who were mistresses of 
Friars really felt great pride in it and had no 
compunction in speaking of it. 

He gave a list of Filipinos who were children or 
descendants of Friars, heading the list with his own 
name, stating that his mother was the daughter of a 
Franciscan Friar. He coupled this admission with 
the somewhat naive remark that he did not dishonor 
himself by so stating, as his family began with 
himself. 

While the despotic methods pursued by many of 
the Friars in what pertained to their religious work 
doubtless created antagonism, the chief ground of 
hostility seems to have been a political one. The 
Friar represented to the people all that was vicious 
and bad in Spanish governmental methods. He was 
to them the visible embodiment of grinding and op- 
pressive taxes, of conscription, of cruel and unusual 
punishments, and of every arbitrary and unreason- 
able demand made upon them by officials to whom 
the good of the governed was too often a secondary 
consideration. The Friars, being the exposed part 
of the government machine, were the point of attack. 
The particular orders against which the greatest ani- 
mosity exists are the Dominicans, Augustinians, 
Recolletos, and Franciscans, these having been the 
most active in securing property interests and assum- 
ing the role of landlords to the people. Three of 
these orders, i. e., the Dominicans, Augustinians, 

[78] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

and Recolletos, own over four hundred thousand 
acres of the choicest agricultural lands of the Archi- 
pelago, besides large holdings in the city of Manila 
and other towns of the islands. The people living 
upon these large properties claim that the land was 
acquired from them and their fathers through 
duress, fraud, and other questionable methods, and 
that they should not be compelled to pay rent there- 
for. 

As a mihtary measure, the orders are prohibited 
at present from attempting to collect rents, as dis- 
turbances would inevitably result. With the estab- 
lishment of civil government, however, and the or- 
ganization of civil courts the right of the orders to 
enforce their demands against their so-called tenants 
cannot, as a legal proposition, be disputed. To an 
ignorant people such a result would be conclusive 
evidence that our government had become a partisan 
of the orders and stood in the shoes of Its prede- 
cessor. In the meantime, the Commission is being 
flooded with petitions from all parts of the islands 
protesting against the Friars and asking that their 
return to the parishes be forbidden. The people 
cannot see or be made to understand that the ques- 
tion of the return of the Friars is purely a matter of 
church policy, and that their property rights are to 
be determined by the courts and not by the arbitrary 
action of individuals. The only solution that seems 
possible is for the government to buy these large 
holdings and then sell or rent the land to the people 
upon easy terms. 

[79] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

In treating this question there is one point upon 
which Americans are apt to be misled, and that is 
in thinking that any attack or reflection upon the 
religious orders in these islands, or any action look- 
ing to their withdrawal, is an attack upon the Catho- 
lic Church. Nothing could be more erroneous. It 
is not the Catholic Church, but these corporations 
within the church, which are the cause of trouble. A 
condition now exists where the Catholics of the islands 
— the natives — are irreconcilably arrayed against 
the church as represented by the religious orders. 
If the governing church authorities, under these 
circumstances, try to force the Friars down the 
throats of the people, it will simply result in extend- 
ing their antagonism to the church itself, with disas- 
trous results to its influence and prestige. Realizing 
the true condition of affairs, the Pope commissioned 
Archbishop Chapelle of New Orleans as Apostolic 
Delegate to the Philippines, with instructions to ex- 
amine into the affairs of the church in the islands 
and to harmonize the discordant elements therein if 
possible. It is not unfair to state that, measured by 
results, his mission bids fair to be an utter failure. 
Whether from conviction or other motive, Arch- 
bishop Chapelle has closely identified himself with 
the Friar interests and thus destroyed whatever influ- 
ence he might else have had in bringing about better 
relations between the church and the great mass of 
native Catholics. The people are even now mourn- 
ing the death of Dr. Jose Rizal, perhaps the great- 
est native the islands have produced, who was pub- 

[80] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

Hcly shot upon the Luneta as late as December 30, 
1896. The charge against him was conspiracy to 
overthrow the government, but the opinion is quite 
universal that he met his death through the influence 
of the religious orders because of accusations made 
against them in his book,'A^o/i me T anger e, and other 
writings. 

The intimate relations existing between church 
and state under Spanish rule is evidenced by a ques- 
tion now being debated before the Commission. 
Under the Treaty of Paris the United States became 
vested with all property in the islands belonging to 
Spain. Various properties, undoubtedly under the 
control of Spanish civil authorities, are claimed by 
the church, the contention being that the state simply 
acted as agent of the church in administering them. 
Among such disputed holdings is the College of San 
Jose, in Manila, worth probably half a million dol- 
lars, the title to which is now being considered. The 
question is one which will likely have to be deter- 
mined eventually by the courts. 

In any criticism of Spanish rule in the islands, or 
of a church policy which finally roused a pacific 
people to bitter antagonism, sight should not be alto- 
gether lost of the great civilizing influence actually 
exerted over the natives by their Spanish masters. 
Compared with their original condition, or with 
the status of other Malayan people, the Filipinos 
have much to their credit. ^With the exception of 
the Mohammedan Moros, and certain of the hill 
tribes, the people profess Christianity and practice 

[81] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

many of its enlightened precepts. While their mor- 
als may be lax in some respects, they are reported 
to be a great improvement over those of most trop- 
ical races. They have acquired many of the social 
graces of the Spaniard and are universally courteous 
and polite. As a people they are hospitable, and a 
stranger among them is seldom refused food or 
shelter. Their knowledge of current affairs, al- 
though superficial in many respects, has in it sufficient 
of the modern to justify a belief that under proper 
guidance further development will be rapid. The 
position of women among them is far in advance 
of that of her sisters in other Oriental countries. 
She is an equal partner in the household, and in very 
many instances a better executive and in closer touch 
with business affairs than her husband. Children 
are treated affectionately, and filial obedience and 
respect are ingrained. There are few, if any, alms- 
houses, the old and indigent being cared for by their 
relatives. All these things represent an evolution 
of character accomplished only through generations 
of contact with a superior race, and without which 
our scheme of granting the people a participation 
in the government would be visionary. Even so, the 
most serious obstacle we will likely encounter results 
from that feature of Spanish rule which restricted 
wealth and education to the few and kept the masses 
poor and ignorant. That great middle class exist- 
ing in our country, from which free government de- 
rives its inspiration and its support, is altogether 
lacking in these islands. The average Filipino ac- 

[82] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

cepts as gospel any doctrine laid down to him by 
the select few, and has learned through long travail 
to invest official position not only with the right, 
but the power to dictate his course of life and con- 
duct. They have found it safer to submit to the 
arbitrary actions of their superiors than to com- 
plain, and are easily influenced by these so-called 
leaders to take up any scheme, however absurd or 
chimerical. It will be slow work to eradicate this 
tendency, and to convince the masses that the law 
is intended for their benefit no less than for those 
privileged ones from whom they have so long 
accepted orders. 



Manila, August 30, igoo. 
In a couple of days the Commission enters upon 
its legislative work, which includes the handling of 
the insular funds. Much work has already been done 
upon a tariff law, and upon an act regulating the civil 
service. Upon our occupation of the islands the old 
system of taxes and import duties collected by Spain 
was continued. Here, however, as in other Spanish 
colonies, the laws were made by the landed pro- 
prietors and people of wealth, and they saw to it 
that few of the burdens of government fell to them. 
They taxed, instead, commerce and industry, with a 
consequent stifling of enterprise. It was difficult for 
a poor man to turn his hand without being compelled 
to contribute something to the revenue. There was 

[83] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

and is today no tax upon land, while luxuries of 
every kind are admitted at a nominal duty. Every- 
thing consumed and used by the masses pays a maxi- 
mum rate. Dr. Carl C. Plehn of the University of 
California, an authority upon economic subjects, has 
been called to assist in framing a more equitable 
tariff law and is now at work upon it. At the same 
time Mr. Kiggins, an examiner of the Civil Service 
Board at Washington, was brought to the islands to 
prepare a comprehensive civil service measure. 
Something of the kind is quite necessary, not only 
to fix a standard for admission to government em- 
ploy, but to relieve the pressure upon the Commis- 
sion by those with a "political pull" desiring ap- 
pointment in the islands. Plans are forming for a 
rapid extension of school work. Dr. David P. Bar- 
rows of California has been appointed Superinten- 
dent of Manila Schools, and a number of American 
teachers are en route. The Filipinos seem anxious 
to educate their children; so much so that schools 
established by the military in still hostile territory, 
and taught by soldiers, have been and are well 
attended. 

Driving on the Luneta and Malecon of evenings 
still constitutes our chief diversion. In addition to 
this, we attend dinners and watch for the bi-monthly 
transport with mail. When letters come half-way 
round the world they mean something, and your 
grievance is very great if your share is less than 
anticipated. Dinners, however, furnish the great 
relief. The maxim here is, " When in doubt what 

[84] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

to do, give a dinner." Many prominent Filipinos 
have entertained the Commissioners and families, 
and vice versa, establishing an entente cordiale which 
mere official intercourse could not accomplish. Our 
acquaintance with army officers gained over the 
festal board has also been most delightful. What- 
ever may be their feelings as a class concerning the 
Commission and its work, taken as individuals they 
could not well be more agreeable. There is one 
feature of these functions, however, which has 
proven somewhat novel to most of our party, i. e., 
the importance attached in military circles to the 
question of rank. If by chance you should seat a 
captain nearer the head of the table than a major, 
or even seat a junior captain above his senior of the 
same rank, your blunder would be unpardonable. 
Not only this, but Mrs. Senior Captain and Mrs. 
Junior Captain must be placed with the same pre- 
cision as her husband — if not more so. To a civil- 
ian host and hostess, who have not studied the Army 
Register with the prayerful diligence of most army 
officers and their wives, the problem of properly 
seating their guests is often a very perplexing one. 
I believe the members of the Commission first 
learned that some of them "ranked" the others 
when they were received by the Japanese Emperor. 
To most of them the idea had not occurred that they 
had a right to precede each other in the order of 
their appointment by President McKinley, being alto- 
gether content to file in as circumstances made con- 
venient. One of the Commissioners, with some pre- 

[85] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

vious experience in mind, insisted that he should rank 
those who had been named subsequent to himself. 
The incident was later recounted by the other Com- 
missioners with considerable glee. 



[86] 




The Water Carrier 



VI 

LAW-MAKING AND SUNDRY EXCURSIONS 

Manila, September 20, igoo. 
T T has been usual to associate the tropics with 
■*■ siestas, neghge, easy chairs, and cooling drinks ; 
a place where all that Is strenuous is put aside, and 
life takes on a dolce far niente coloring like unto 
that lotus land where "It Is always afternoon." 
Whatever truth the picture holds generally, It has 
no application to present conditions here. The task 
of organizing a system of government which will 
appeal to these people, and at the same time square 
with our ideas of what Is right and best, leaves little 
time for dreaming. What with the preparation and 
consideration of proposed laws, the granting of 
interviews, the discussion of plans and projects, and 
the hearing of petitions as numerous and varied 
as human tribulations, the Commission Is simply 
swamped with work. Old residents predict that the 
pace set is the pace that kills. 

On taking over Its duties, September first, the 
Commission determined to give the fullest opportu- 
nity possible for public consideration of proposed 
legislation and reforms. Agreeable to this plan, 
Wednesdays and Fridays of each week have been 

[87] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

set apart for public sessions, at which times any per- 
son is privileged to make suggestions or offer criti- 
cisms as to matters in hand. By this arrangement 
it is hoped not only to get the Filipino viewpoint, 
and satisfy their innate desire for public speaking, 
but to demonstrate our purpose of giving them a 
voice in public affairs. While some of the natives 
have availed themselves of the opportunity, it is but 
fair to say that most of those of influence have thus 
far held aloof from the sessions. This attitude was 
at first somewhat surprising, no less than disappoint- 
ing, to the Commission. We knew that the prin- 
cipal leaders of the people realized there was no 
longer any organized resistance to our authority, and 
that all chance of achieving independence through 
insurrection was hopeless. Many of them appre- 
ciate also that our desire to help them is sincere, and 
that the welfare of their people demands that they 
cooperate with us in establishing law and order. 
While conceding all this in private, they seek, never- 
theless, to appear in public as neutral or as favoring 
independence. The reason for this anomalous posi- 
tion was soon disclosed. It has its root in the fear 
and the conviction that if Bryan is elected in Novem- 
ber the American forces will be immediately with- 
drawn from the islands and the government turned 
over to the natives. Believing this as gospel, they 
hesitate to become known at this time as "American- 
istas," something which, should their fears be real- 
ized, would cut them off from the spoils of an inde- 
pendent regime and single them out for persecution 

[88] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

by those who had more consistently championed 
"the rights" of the people. 

The Democratic platform, as you know, seeks to 
make the Philippine question the " paramount issue " 
of the campaign. It condemns and denounces the 
policy of the present administration in the islands, 
and speaks of it as dictated by a " greedy commer- 
cialism;" it refers to our efforts to terminate the 
insurrection as "a war of criminal aggression," and 
advocates the immediate declaration of our purpose 
to give the Filipinos a state government, to be fol- 
lowed by independence and protection from outside 
interference; it pretends, also, to see in our occupa- 
tion of the Archipelago something which involves 
the existence of the Republic and of free institutions, 
while it pronounces as un-American the application 
of military force to crush " the efforts of our former 
allies to achieve liberty and self-government." This 
decided stand of one of our great parties, coupled 
with the ill-considered preachings of its leader and a 
coterie of Boston enthusiasts, have been industri- 
ously brought to the attention of the natives by the 
insurgent juntas of Hong Kong and Madrid. Cop- 
ies of this party declaration, and of the writings and 
speeches denouncing our presence here as a crime, 
have been found in the possession of captured in- 
surgents, together with instructions urging renewed 
hostilities pending the election. 

As part of this campaign program we are prom- 
ised an early uprising in Manila, and are in receipt 
of daily reports of ambushes and murders in differ- 

[89] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

ent parts of the Archipelago. While these people 
are possibly In error as to just what would be the 
outcome of a Democratic victory, it cannot be said, 
under the circumstances, that their attiude is unrea- 
sonable. Whether reasonable or unreasonable, how- 
ever, there can be no question but that the present 
resistance to our authority and the reluctance of 
prominent Filipinos to cooperate with us derive their 
principal vitality and support from the United States 
and not from any encouragement furnished by condi- 
tions in the islands. There is every reason to believe 
that if McKinley be reelected the whole insurrecto 
movement will crumble, and the toll of human lives 
now being offered up for purely partisan purposes 
will come to an end. It need hardly be said we 
anxiously await the result. 

The first law passed by the Commission was an 
appropriation of $2,000,000, Mexican currency, for 
the construction and repair of highways and bridges, 
the money to be expended under the direction of the 
Military Governor. By this law employment will 
be furnished a large number of persons rendered idle 
by the war and a beginning made in a comprehen- 
sive system of road-building for the islands. The 
need for improved means of communication is a cry- 
ing one. In her over three centuries of occupation 
Spain did very little in this regard. There are but 
one hundred and twenty miles of railroad in the 
archipelago, while the public roads — or what are 
termed such — are practically impassable during six 
months of the year. The great interior of the coun- 

[90] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

try finds access to a market difficult if not impossible 
when not adjacent to the few scattered waterways. 
When it is realized how closely the industrial devel- 
opment of a country is dependent upon this transpor- 
tation, this first step of the Commission is certainly 
in the right direction. 

The second act appropriated five thousand dollars 
for the purpose of determining the best route for a 
railroad into the mountains of Benguet. This is in 
line with the plan previously referred to of estab- 
lishing a sanitarium or health resort in Baguio, where 
relief can be had from the enervating climate of the 
tropical lowlands. As the first consideration of every- 
one taking employment in the islands Is that of 
health, the project Is intimately connected with the 
possibility of building up a permanent and contented 
personnel for this service. 

With the like object of placing employees here on 
a right basis the Commission has just enacted a civil 
service law which Is sweeping In its provisions. With 
the exception of bureau chiefs, practically every gov- 
ernment position Is placed under civil service rules. 
Even as to heads of bureaus it Is provided that with- 
in eighteen months after the Board shall certify that 
It has a sufficient eligible list, such positions are to be 
filled from a class composed of the first, second and 
third assistants In the various offices. Entrance to 
tlie service Is by competitive examination, and is lim- 
ited to citizens of the United States, natives of the 
islands, and persons who, under the Treaty of Paris, 
acquired the political rights of natives. Appointing 

[91] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

officers are required, where other qualifications are 
equal, to prefer for positions-, first, natives of the 
Philippines, and, second, all honorably discharged 
soldiers, sailors, and marines of the United States. 
It is the purpose of the Commission to eliminate all 
politics and favoritism, and to hold out a well- 
founded hope of reward to those who serve the gov- 
ernment faithfully. The law will doubtless prove 
a sad blow to that numerous class of persons with 
"influential backing" who desire to sacrifice them- 
selves for their country's welfare. It will also prove 
a great saving of time and worry to the Commission, 
as it can now refer all such aspirants to the Civil 
Service Board " for information." 

Another matter pressing upon the Commission is 
the reorganization of our courts and the reform of 
the present judicial procedure. While the courts in 
Manila and other pacified centers were reopened 
shortly after American occupation, they are still 
largely governed in their organization and conduct 
by the old Spanish codes based upon the Roman civil 
law. Whatever merit this body of law may possess 
in its application to peoples of Latin origin, that 
portion of it having to do with court procedure cer- 
tainly seems designed to prevent rather than promote 
justice. In the matter of criminal actions our au- 
thorities early found the old system so cumbersome 
and so opposed to modern conceptions of justice that 
a new set of regulations governing criminal proced- 
ure was promulgated by military order. As to civil 
actions, the law as It now stands involves litigants 

[92] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

in a hopeless tangle of delays and uncertainties. It 
permits, for instance, an appeal to the Supreme 
Court from any interlocutory order of the trial 
court, thus postponing a final decision indefinitely — 
while other provisions are in keeping. Under such 
a scheme the person with the longest purse usually 
wins. It appears also that in the old days the vari- 
ous court officials received little or no salary, being 
dependent for their reward upon "gratuities" be- 
stowed by the parties interested. A matter just pre- 
sented to the Commission illustrates another strange 
feature of the law; i.e., a provision which permits 
successful litigants to tax their attorney's fees as 
part of the court costs. In a recent suit involving 
some $579, judgment went against the plaintiff upon 
what to us would be a demurrer, there being some 
technical defect in the power under which the action 
was filed. There was but one hearing, and this not 
upon the merits of the case. The attorney for the 
defendant (an American) fixed his fee at $624, while 
the other costs brought the total up to $739, or 
nearly $200 more than the amount sued fpr. Upon 
objection by plaintiff to such a charge the question 
was referred under their practice to two attorneys 
for an opinion. This committee reported the fee a 
just one, and charged another $50 for their services. 
The judge (a Filipino) allowed the claim, although 
vested with discretion to modify or deny it. There 
being no appeal from his order, the matter was 
brought before the Commission. The Commission 
decided it had no authority to review the decision, 

[93] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

but as It did have power to appoint and remove 
judges, this particular judge was Invited to appear 
and explain his mental processes. He was a queer 
little specimen of humanity, and a very uncomfort- 
able half hour he had of it. At first he protested 
that he was without discretion In the matter. Being 
shown the provision of law giving him such dis- 
cretion, he was finally driven to stating that he 
thought the fee a reasonable one. He urged, how- 
ever, that the attorney for defendant had told him 
the fee was in accordance with the practice " In the 
rich and powerful North American Republic, where 
the services of lawyers are paid for in a splendid 
manner as befits persons truly great." He also spoke 
seriously of the lawyer representing the defendant 
as " one of the most prominent legal representatives 
of that great country." There being nothing to Indi- 
cate that the court and attorney were to share the 
fee, and the practice being recognized as one which 
a vicious custom had apparently sanctioned, the 
judge escaped with simply a bit of advice as to his 
future conduct. To remedy such conditions, how- 
ever, Commissioner Ide is working on a Judiciary 
Act and a Code of Civil Procedure, while Commis- 
sioner Wright is drafting a Criminal Code and a set 
of regulations governing criminal actions. 



Manila, October 25, igoo. 
The political situation remains much the same, no 
Important change in conditions being expected until 
after election. The Commission is grinding away 

[94] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

with Its sessions, and, through interviews and other- 
wise, seeking to bring home to these people the fact 
that their true interests He in joining with us in 
terminating the insurrection and implanting civil au- 
thority. In the meantime the work of reorganiza- 
tion goes steadily forward. A Bureau of Statistics 
has been organized to compile reliable data concern- 
ing the population and industries of the islands. A 
Bureau of Forestry and a Bureau of Mining have 
been established to investigate and conserve these 
two sources of latent wealth of the archipelago. One 
million dollars has been appropriated for improv- 
ing the port of Manila, a work begun under Spain 
but interrupted by the war. At present all vessels 
except those of very light draft which enter the 
Pasig River are compelled to anchor far out in the 
bay and lighter their cargo and passengers. Dur- 
ing the southwest monsoon, or where typhoons are 
blowing, it frequently happens that all traffic between 
ships and shore is suspended for days at a time. By 
the construction of breakwaters and docks it is pro- 
posed to establish a protected, deep water harbor, 
which will make Manila not only one of the best 
ports In the Far East but a great distributing center 
as well. 

The new Civil Service Board has been organized, 
Mr. Peppermann, Recorder of the Commission, be- 
ing one of the appointees. Owing to the scarcity of 
reporters, I have assumed his duties as recorder in 
addition to my work as private secretary to Commis- 
sioner Moses. At this time, when plans and politics 

[95] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

are shaping which involve the future of a country 
and a people, it is worth while being where you can 
see and hear the wheels go round. There is a flavor 
about this situation and work which reminds one of 
Kipling's tales of India. It is a place where men do 
things and where life is more than a routine. There 
is a joy, moreover, in watching the Commission in 
action. In the pressure of its work it forgets all 
about meal hours and family obligations ; it seems to 
find in the heat of noontime and the " Luneta hour," 
a favorite season for renewed exertions, while diffi- 
culties seem only to whet its energy and impart a 
new zest to life. And finally, when rising tempera- 
ture, military antagonism, and native procrastination 
have charged the atmosphere to the explosion point, 
and things look hopelessly blue, a hearty laugh by 
Judge Taft or a droll story by General Wright re- 
lieves the tension and saves the situation. If ever 
circumstances existed where a large optimism, 
coupled with a " Divine sense of humor," were neces- 
sary for success, that condition exists here and now. 
Not until the true history of this epoch is written 
will our people know how fortunate they have been 
in having men on this work who can sink individual 
feelings in their sense of responsibility to their coun- 
try, and who can tide over all sorts of trouble with 
a laugh. 



Manila, October 30, igoo. 
While matters political have largely occupied my 
letters thus far, it must not be thought that life here 

[96] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

holds no other interests. This old city, with its 
hybrid and restless population, is a constant and 
fascinating study. It is a kaleidoscope of changing 
scenes, each with its own peculiar color and charm. 

To a newcomer one of the things which possibly 
strikes most forcibly at first is the stress laid upon 
the spectacular in the religious life of this people. 
Manila is a city of churches, splendid in architecture 
and rich in interior finish and decoration, while no 
village, however poor or squalid, is without its im- 
posing iglesia and convento. In addition to regu- 
lar services, which are quite elaborate, frequent cele- 
brations are held during which the numerous statues 
of virgins and saints, which adorn every church, are 
mounted upon litters and taken in solemn procession 
through the streets. They are robed in their richest 
vestments and jewels, and the floats which carry them 
are studded with ornaments and lights. In front and 
at intervals of this line march the priests, resplendent 
in gold and brocade, chanting the services of their 
faith. Two or more bands of music usually attend, 
while hundreds of devout natives, dressed in black 
and carrying candles, add impressiveness to the 
scene. As the parade winds in and out through the 
narrow streets, a vivid stream of light against the 
night shadows, it makes a weird and fanciful picture, 
well calculated to inspire religious fervor among a 
rude and simple people. It is difficult for the colder 
natures of the north, trained to act through reason 
rather than through emotion or sentiment, to realize 
the blind veneration with which those who dwell 

[97] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

where skies are warmer can be brought to invest 
certain objects. To them the visible sign — the out- 
ward show — is the thing which appeals, rather 
than the hidden fact which it is supposed to 
symbolize. 

The other evening a number of us visited the 
Augustinian Church, where the final services of a 
" Novenario " were being celebrated. All the 
chandeliers were lit, gorgeous tapestries swung from 
the vaulted dome, and altar, alcove, and shrine 
blazed with candles. Worshipers filled seat and 
aisle, while far down the vista could be seen the 
richly dressed priests revolving in the ceremonial 
figures of the mass. The air was full of incense, 
which rose like a smoke. About one were dark, 
intent faces that never swerved, while above, and 
mixed with the chanting of the priests, was the roll 
of organ music and the peal of human voices. In 
some respects the scene was barbaric, reminding of 
some ancient and legendary rite, but the question 
remains after all whether it is not an easier and 
a better way to reach and influence pagan souls than 
preaching an abstract God from a bare pulpit fronted 
by wooden benches. 

Among the excursions further afield than Manila 
have been a visit to Cavite, a launch ride up the 
Pasig, and a trip on the railroad as far north as 
Apalit. Cavite, which lies just across an arm of the 
bay from Manila, is reached in an hour by ferry. 
Its principal attraction is the navy yard and arsenal — 
a legacy bequeathed us by Spain. The place holds an 

[98] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

added interest just now because of the battle of 
Manila Bay, and the wrecks of the Spanish fleet still 
lying where sunk by Dewey's cannon. Sentiment 
here concerning that May day fight does not reach 
the fever pitch it did in the States. In talking the 
other day with a young fellow who was on the Con- 
cord during the battle, he said the Spanish fleet 
offered little real resistance; that with the exception 
of one or two vessels none of them had up steam, 
while all but one were anchored fore and aft. As 
to the story about quitting for breakfast, he said 
they withdrew because the smoke was so thick they 
couldn't see anything, and simply breakfasted while 
waiting for It to clear away. 

Cavite itself is a sleepy old town, though the 
province of which it is the capital has been the seal; 
of most of the uprisings against Spain, and is now a 
hotbed of insurrection. On the Sunday of our visit 
most of the natives appeared to be at the cockpit, 
their gallera being crowded with men, women, and 
children. Cock fighting is the national sport of the 
Filipino masses, their feathered champions forming 
an intimate part of the family circle and receiving an 
affectionate care scarcely second to that given chil- 
dren of the household. We visited the Cavite cock- 
pit for a short time, and the sight of that circle of 
tense, absorbed faces hanging upon every movement 
of the combat made a subject ripe for a painter's 
brush. Most of the natives gamble recklessly on 
their favorites, and poverty and crime wait upon 
the result of each sanguinary struggle. Filipinos of 

[99] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

education admit the sport to be vicious and brutaliz- 
ing, and a serious menace to the moral and material 
progress of their people. As man does not live by 
bread alone, however, the problem of uprooting the 
evil is intimately linked with the other question of 
furnishing the people some more legitimate pastime 
in its stead. 

The Pasig River is about fifteen miles long and 
connects the Laguna de Bay with Manila Bay. It 
winds in and out through a broad fertile plain, Its 
banks lined with little nipa villages and rich with 
all the luxuriant growth of the tropics. It is the 
great highway of commerce for the lake country, and 
as your launch ascends its course there glide by a 
succession of native craft laden with fruit, pottery, 
palay, and other products bound for the Manila 
markets. Upon either side there pass in review a 
series of pictures Arcadian In their simplicity and 
charm. The Filipinos are a cleanly people both In 
person and dress, a fact which makes of every river 
and stream a site for promiscuous laundry work and 
bathing. While the mothers of the household thresh 
and beat the family linen upon the stones, their 
numerous progeny, clothed only in sunlight, swim 
and splash about beside them. It may also be that 
a drove of carabaos share the water with the 
lavenderas and bathers, but this is a detail best for- 
gotten. 

Beautiful and interesting, however, as Is the day- 
light ride up the river. It Is the ride down, when 
bright moonlight floods the land and marks your 

[lOO] 




River Scene 




On the Pasig River 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

path with beaten silver, that furnishes inspiration 
for poetry and romance. As our launch turned and 
headed from the lake into the river the glory of the 
setting sun was before us, painting the sky with red 
and gold and flushing the waters with deep crimson 
shadows. As the colors faded, and the short trop- 
ical twilight deepened into night, a perfect moon 
rode out of the East and lit up field and river with 
a wealth of radiance unknown in lands of cold and 
snow. Groups of majestic palms, broad-leafed 
banana groves, and clumps of feathery bamboo stood 
out in silhouette against the sky, their graceful out- 
lines reflected in the placid waters like some dream 
vision. When to the witchery of such a night and 
such a scene are added congenial companions, atten- 
tive muchachos, and a well-stocked ice box, you for- 
got for a time that in the dim hills on the horizon 
men were struggling in fierce hate, and that your 
enjoyment was but a breathing spell in the rush of 
events making history about you. 

Our railroad trip to Apalit, some forty miles north 
of Manila, took us over ground where much of the 
severe fighting occurred following the insurrection. 
A few guerrilla bands yet lurk in the mountains, 
but most of the territory to the north Is pacified and 
the natives again engaged in their usual work. The 
railroad, however, is still operated by the military. 
It is owned by English capital, but the insurgent 
sympathies of the old management, and the neces- 
sity for prompt and efficient service, led our authori- 
ties to assume and retain control. The train crews 

[lOl] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

are made up of American soldiers, our campaign 
having shown that no matter what emergencies may 
arise experts are forthcoming from the ranks to 
meet them. The cars used in the service are like 
unto the dinky little boxes seen on English railways. 
A number of army officers shared our cubby with us, 
among them Brigadier General Frederick Grant, 
who is stationed at Angeles. He very much resem- 
bles his distinguished father, and proved a most de- 
lightful companion. Our immediate party consisted 
of Commissioner and Mrs. Moses, Miss Briggs and 
myself, the occasion of our trip being a visit to Dr. 
and Mrs. Thomas, stationed at Apalit. Our jour- 
ney, which occupied some two hours, proved remark- 
ably pleasant. The road runs over a flat plain, the 
Zambales coast range rising sharply to the west, 
while the Cordillera Central could be seen far to the 
east. Rice paddies, cane fields, and an ever-present 
array of palms, bamboo, and banana trees filled the 
landscape. We passed through Malolos, seat of the 
short-lived Filipino Republic, and were pointed to 
various places where important events had trans- 
pired. We saw a great many insurgent trenches, and 
at one stop there was a group of sixty insurgent pris- 
oners under guard for Manila. Soldiers were sta- 
tioned at the different towns en route, and all the 
bridges were guarded. The "panoply of war" was 
decidedly In evidence. 

We were met at our destination by Dr. and Mrs. 
Thomas, and drove to Apalit, about three miles dis- 
tant, in an army ambulance. The road follows the 

[102] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

windings of the Rio Grande de Pampanga, and fur- 
nished another series of moving pictures the hght 
and color of which cannot be transcribed to paper. 
Both sides of the road were hedged by an almost 
continuous row of nipa houses, which, with their 
wilderness of surrounding vegetation and their 
quota of brown humanity resembled so many stage 
settings. All the natives turned out to see us, the 
youngsters airing their knowledge of English by 
yelling "Hello" at the top of their lungs. Many 
of them were dressed in the " altogether," their dark 
skins shining in the brilliant sunlight like polished 
bronze. 

We found our hosts installed in one of the village 
nipas, and soon appreciated how well suited such 
houses are to this climate. There is not a nail or 
bit of iron in the whole structure. The frame, floors, 
and walls are of bamboo, and the roof of nipa palm, 
all fastened together with bejuco and wooden pegs. 
There are no windows, their place being taken by a 
sort of shade projected outward with a pole. The 
rooms run right up to the ridge, and while there is 
some effort at partitions, they are little more than 
imaginary, at least so far as sound is concerned. The 
ventilation is that of all out-doors, the open work 
floors and sides furnishing plenty of ozone. While 
the Thomas' nipa boasted bamboo beds, it is prob- 
able that ninety-five per cent of the natives sleep on 
mats spread on the floor. As the "feel" Is about 
the same whether you sleep on a bamboo floor or a 
bamboo bed, there Is some reason besides economy 

[103] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

for eliminating a bulky bedstead from these little 
huts. 

Our arrival was the signal for an early visit from 
the village presidente and other "leading citizens," 
all of whom were dressed in conventional black and 
were profuse in their expressions of welcome. There 
was also a procession of native women bearing gifts 
of fruit, dukes, and various eatables, such having 
been the costumhre del pais In the old days when 
Spanish officials shed the light of their countenance 
upon the provinces. Captain Butler, in command 
of the post, took tiffin with us, and it was a right 
jolly spread. We ate to the accompaniment of a 
native band, which persisted in serenading us during 
the entire meal. Late in the afternoon the Buen- 
camino family sent carriages for us and we all 
repaired to their home. 

In Apallt, as In other pueblos of the islands, one 
or two families usually own most of the property 
and dominate the social and economic life of the 
place. This position of influence is held here by the 
Buencamino and Arnedo families, who are related by 
marriage. The hospitality of the Buencamino home 
was extended us by the four daughters — the father, 
Don Felipe Buencamino, being absent In Manila, 
where he takes a prominent part among the Filipinos 
who have openly espoused the American cause. He 
was Secretary of State In Agulnaldo's cabinet, and 
though accused of shifting his politics to suit each 
favoring breeze, is undoubtedly a man of ability, 
with more initiative than usual among this race. His 
[104] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

home in Apalit is a large, roomy dwelling, typical 
of the better class houses in the islands. The en- 
tresuelo, or ground floor, is given over to horses, 
carriages, servants, and other miscellaneous uses, the 
family occupying the upper floor. Here the rooms 
are spacious and airy, with high ceilings and with 
floors of native hardwood polished until they shine 
like glass. Connected with all such households is a 
body of servants or retainers who identify themselves 
with the interests of the establishment, and who 
receive in turn maintenance for themselves and fam- 
ilies somewhat after the patriarchial style of Bible 
times. It is a system which breeds a motley array 
of attendants, who give you the impression of being 
constantly in the way. 

Our reception was a royal one, the ritual of hos- 
pitality among these people being reduced to a fine 
art. There was music and dancing and a recounting 
of vivid personal experiences during the troublous 
days just passed. It seems that upon the approach 
of our troops — who had been painted to the people 
as devils incarnate — everybody fled into the forests 
and mountains, where men, women, and children 
herded together like hunted animals and suffered all 
manner of privations. When they learned, however, 
that our soldiers did not burn their houses nor de- 
stroy their property, and did not make war upon 
women and children, they flocked back to their homes 
and are still voicing their surprise and gratitude. It 
is a strange fact, but most of the waste and destruc- 
tion of property in the islands since the American 

[105] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

occupation has been by the natives themselves. Upon 
retreating from a village it was their frequent prac- 
tice to burn it to the ground — a piece of folly ex- 
plained on the theory of mock-heroics or because 
they ignorantly believed that by such action our 
troops would be plunged into all the misery which 
befell Napoleon before a burning Moscow. 

Dinner was served at eight, and it was Indeed a 
feast to remember. A great mahogany table glit- 
tered with the finest china and linen, Its entire length 
being set off by massive bouquets, pyramids of fruit, 
wonderfully ornamented cakes, and stands of most 
elaborately carved toothpicks. The number and 
variety of courses were amazing, creating a sense of 
wonder as to where and how they were all produced. 
There were wines of all kinds and color, the effect 
of which doubtless added to the conviviality of the 
occasion. Among the guests were the Arnedo boys, 
Macarlo and Eugenio — the young uncles of our 
hostesses — who assumed the burden of our enter- 
tainment. Nowhere have I met more perfect and 
gracious hosts. All of our party understood Span- 
ish, and most of them spoke it passably, which added 
greatly to the pleasure of the occasion. After din- 
ner there was more music and dancing, followed by a 
drive homeward through the tranquil peace of a 
tropic night. I lodged at the cuartel, where Captain 
Butler Is stationed with a company of soldiers. They 
occupy the convento, or priest's residence, attached 
to the village church. There has been some criticism 
of the use of these buildings by our troops, but in 

[io6] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

truth there are no other structures in the towns large 
enough to accommodate a company of soldiers. This 
may furnish some idea of the palatial quarters occu- 
pied by the church dignitaries of the old days, who 
were wont to assemble on occasion to enjoy material 
as well as spiritual communion. 

The next morning we stood at the window of the 
convento and watched the people gather for service. 
They were dressed in their bravest and best, and 
their costumes were picturesque and becoming. Some 
of the women were very pretty, many of them hav- 
ing a poise of head and beauty of neck and shoulders 
that would be the envy of women in the States. 
Later we went into the gallery of the church and 
looked down the long nave, where hundreds were 
kneeling to the solemn chant of the mass. It was an 
interesting and impressive sight. 

We returned to Manila in the late afternoon tired 
but content. A light rain had fallen, clearing the 
atmosphere and sharply defining the distant moun- 
tains beyond the green-flecked fields of rice, and cane, 
and feathery bamboo. Our outing had proven a rare 
treat, and we felt at its end that seldom do thirty-six 
hours in any life hold more of vivid experience than 
we had just garnered. 



[107] 



VII 

THE TURNING OF THE TIDE 

Manila, November 28, igoo. 
OINCE my last letter was written the vox populi 
^^ of our country has decreed, and Bryan and his 
" Paramount Issue " have gone down in defeat. It 
has relieved the situation here immensely, and the 
Commission and army now feel free to go ahead and 
work out this problem along the lines heretofore set 
by the administration. There has already been a 
perceptible warming toward the authorities by those 
leaders wise enough to read the handwriting on the 
wall. It should be plain to all of them, and is plain 
to most, that further resistance will only invite dis- 
aster to the people they profess to serve and involve 
their own personal fortunes and ambitions in possi- 
ble eclipse or ruin. Whatever ideas they yet retain 
as to the abstract right of their country to inde- 
pendence, or the wisdom of it, true patriotism would 
certainly counsel that they take some method other 
than force of arms to achieve it. Given conditions 
as they now exist, our authorities are justified in 
treating those who still persist in fomenting disorder 
as enemies not only to our government but equally 
so to the wishes and best interests of the great mass 

[108] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

of their own countrymen. As a matter of fact, most 
of the present " insurrecto " operations have degen- 
erated into barbarous attacks upon those of their 
own people who show a desire to cooperate with us. 
A quite recent case was the murder of Eduardo 
Kintero, Chief of Police of Tacloban, Leyte, who 
had administered his office faithfully and fearlessly. 
To evidence our appreciation of his loyalty, and to 
encourage others who are jeopardizing, or may 
jeopardize, their lives and property in our service, 
the Commission has just appropriated seven hundred 
and fifty dollars to the widow and family of the 
deceased, left destitute by his death. 

A noticeable effect of the election has been an In- 
creased attendance upon the public sessions of the 
Commission. The fact of being permitted to freely 
express their views concerning proposed legislation 
is something new to these people, and they approach 
it with diffidence. They are slow to realize that the 
Commission is sincere in its efforts to obtain their 
opinion and counsel. On several occasions when, 
after profuse apologies, some criticism was made of 
a pending measure and the speaker invited to make 
suggestions he would simply spread his hands and 
remark that he " could not presume to give advice 
to so learned a body as the Commission." Among 
others whp have seen the light and favored the Com- 
mission with their Ideas and presence Is Pedro A. 
Paterno — he of "Amnesty Banquet" fame. I men- 
tion him, not because his suggestions have In any 
way lightened the burdens of the Commission, but 

[ 109] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

as indicating how rapidly and completely the tide of 
popular favor is turning our way. When a Filipino 
of Paterno's shrewdness, whose every move is gov- 
erned by self-interest, casts his lot with us, its signifi- 
cance is far reaching among a people whose politics 
are largely personal. 

The Commission has just submitted a report to 
the Secretary of War dealing with the present situ- 
ation and future needs of the islands. If there is a 
single problem in government building which is not 
presented for solution here, then this report fails to 
disclose it. Had Spain purposely created a condition 
to embarrass us she could not have done it more 
completely. Not only did we inherit an insurrection, 
and a church problem upon which her own govern- 
ment was wrecked, but the whole administrative ma- 
chinery is so antiquated and disorganized as not to 
admit of patching or repair. Questions of municipal 
and provincial law, of revenue and currency, of 
courts, sanitation and police, of education and trans- 
portation, of land titles, forestry and mining — of 
everything in fact essential to organized society — 
are clamoring for attention and must needs be solved 
with few, if any, precedents to guide. Into this mis- 
cellany of problems has now entered another element 
still more uncertain; i.e., the United States Con- 
gress. Thus far the Commission has acted entirely 
under the war power of the President, but with the 
establishment of civil government many necessary 
reforms can be accomplished only under express Con- 
gressional authority or sanction. To be compelled, 

[no] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

when needs are pressing, to wait upon the will of a 
body ten thousand miles away, which knows little 
and possibly cares less about the Philippines, does 
not make for the happiest results in government. 
A striking example of such embarrassment now con- 
fronts the Commission in its dealings with the cur- 
rency problem. When we acquired the islands they 
were on a silver basis, the money in use being Mexi- 
can dollars and a special Spanish-Filipino peso, the 
exchange value of which fluctuates with the market 
price of silver. Sometime prior to 1898 Spain pro- 
hibited the further importation of Mexican dollars, 
while the coinage of Spanish pesos naturally ceased 
upon our coming. With the supply of silver currency 
thus shut off, came our army of occupation with a 
flood of American gold and an ever-increasing de- 
mand for local currency in exchange. To meet this 
demand the banks asked authority to import Mexican 
dollars free of duty, agreeing to maintain an ex- 
change rate of not less than two Mexican dollars 
for one of gold up to their importations. This per- 
mission was granted, and something over twelve mil- 
lion Mexican pesos have been imported, the banks 
profiting both in their purchase of the silver and in 
its subsequent exchange in the islands. For some time 
the value of silver permitted a higher rate than two 
for one, but the demand for silver, consequent upon 
the war in China, having raised the price, the banks, 
in violation of their guarantee, dropped the rate to 
1.98 Mexican for one of gold. As the business of 
the country is done in terms of silver, the immediate 

[III] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

effect of this was to discredit American money among 
the trading classes, who, fearful of still further re- 
ductions, refused to accept It except at ruinous dis- 
counts. The first effort of the Commission to bolster 
the purchasing price of our money was to authorize 
the payment of customs dues and Internal revenue 
taxes In gold at two to one. This having proved In- 
adequate, an arrangement was entered into whereby 
the banks holding government deposits agreed to 
freely purchase gold from the public at two to one, 
protecting themselves by transferring each week an 
equivalent amount at the same rate from the govern- 
ment silver account to its gold account. While the 
effect of this was to protect holders of American 
money by fixing a definite rate, It was made possible 
only because of the large silver deposits to the credit 
of the government. Should this reserve become ex- 
hausted, the arrangement would necessarily fail 
unless the government replenished its silver supply 
by the purchase of additional Mexican, an operation 
likely to prove expensive. Between August i8 and 
November 17 Its silver deposit with the Hong Kong 
& Shanghai Bank decreased from $2,440,910 to 
$290,420, and that with the Chartered Bank some- 
thing over a million pesos. To minimize the demand 
for silver provision was made for the payment of 
all salaries in United States currency, and that ap- 
propriations be made In gold whenever possible. In 
the meantime, however, both the banks and private 
individuals were exporting Mexican dollars to Hong 
Kong, where they were worth more than their pur- 

[112] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

chase price in Manila. To prevent this misuse of its 
guarantee the Commission took the somewhat ex- 
traordinary step of fixing a ten per cent duty on all 
exportations of Mexican silver. Before that law 
was passed, however, a single Manila bank exported 
nearly a million and a half Mexican, and other banks 
and individuals probably as much more. Another 
prolific source of profit to the banks was a require- 
ment that all deposits should be made and all checks 
drawn in Mexican currency, the result of which was 
that everyone receiving United States money had to 
convert it into Mexican for his bank account, and 
then change it back into gold should he purchase 
foreign exchange. It also worked havoc with the 
silver reserve of the government, which was called 
upon to maintain the ratio. To close this particular 
gap the Commission has just enacted a law compel- 
ling banks to receive deposits both in United States 
money and In local currency, and honor checks or 
repay deposits in kind. Just when or how the next 
break will occur remains to be seen, as there is noth- 
ing final in what has been done. Certainly our expe- 
rience thus far furnishes little argument for free 
silver. The only remedy is to adopt a Philippine 
coinage based upon gold values. This, however, is 
something the Commission is powerless to do, being 
driven to all manner of expedients to save the situ- 
ation until Congress can or will act. It has recom- 
mended that a silver Filipino peso be minted receiv- 
able in business as equivalent to fifty cents United 
States currency, the intrinsic value of such peso being 

[113] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

made sufficiently low to prevent exportation. With 
the convertibility of this peso into gold at fifty cents 
guaranteed, the islands will be furnished a perfectly 
stable and elastic currency without disturbing the 
denominations and values to which the people are 
accustomed. To at once adopt United States cur- 
rency, when wages and prices are fixed in terms of 
silver, would produce business chaos. Let us see 
how soon Congress will appreciate our predicament 
and furnish relief. 

Manila was stirred somewhat last week by the 
return of the Fourteenth Infantry from the China 
campaign. Whatever else this life here may hold, 
its different scenes and events have power to make 
very real to us many things which were rather vague 
at home. The story of what England has done and 
is doing in India, the work of the Dutch in Java, and 
of the French in Indo-China, the awakening of 
Japan, the march of Russia to the Pacific, the future 
of China — all this takes on new meaning here, and 
you feel yourself a part somehow of the great drama 
now unfolding in the Orient. 

Our returning soldiers have much to tell of what 
happened during the China expedition, and, news- 
papers to the contrary, are exhibiting large quantities 
of valuable " loot" to point their stories. Rich as is 
their spoil, however, it would seem to be a mere 
bagatelle compared to that annexed by their more 
enterprising allies. The tales told of that march 
upon Pekin, and of the subsequent conduct of the 
troops and foreign populace, are almost incredible in 

[114] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

their enormity. The amount of goods ana property 
dehberately looted or wantonly destroyed is beyond 
estimate, and this, too, from non-combatants, whose 
only part in the Boxer movement was being situated 
in the path of the relief columns. Whole villages 
were given over to pillage, rapine and slaughter, 
while Pekin itself became a vast treasure house to be 
plundered at will by soldiers and civilians. Those 
who were wronged had no spokesmen, and the 
damnable things done to them, and the misery and 
injustice suffered, will likely never be heralded to the 
world. 

The spectacle offered by the so-called Christian 
nations in China has not been one to make us proud. 
We have held the American Indian up to execration 
because he visited his vengeance upon the unoffend- 
ing, but he was a savage, while we who have done 
this thing pretend to much. Even as to the Boxers, 
was their movement so very unreasonable or un- 
natural? They were simply trying to preserve their 
own customs and religion, and to prevent the unwel- 
come interference of foreigners with the resting 
places of their dead and with traditions grown sacred 
through the practice of untold ages. Other peoples 
have been applauded for such a stand as theirs. I 
appreciate there is involved in all this the mooted 
question of our religious missions in China, and of 
our obligation to save what are termed "heathen 
souls." It is a matter upon which opinions differ, 
and upon which few persons have more than theo- 
retical notions. To many who have studied the situ- 

[115] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

ation on the ground the whoie thing appears to be an 
expenditure of effort and of treasure which could be 
directed to far better advantage at home. These 
people have a religion. It satisfies their Ideas, and 
is a product of their environment, and of a civiliza- 
tion far more ancient and less mutable than our own. 
Why should we seek to supplant their beliefs with 
one we have inherited, which, while perhaps better 
for us, may be entirely unsuited to them. The man- 
ner of their lives and the bent of their thoughts 
cannot be changed by dogma. Religion is just as 
much a matter of evolution as are other modes of 
thought and feeling, and is fitted to a people much 
as is the costume they wear or the food they eat. 
Before you can permanently transform their faith 
you must transform their view of life, their mode of 
living, and their conception of existence. This is 
not done by preaching, but by bringing to them those 
material and mental conditions which have fitted us 
for our particular belief. Privileges of various 
kinds in favor of foreign missions, forced upon 
China by the powers, have been a source of frequent 
friction and disorder, with their consequent excuse 
for intervention on the part of the country whose 
citizens were molested. How far we are justified 
In forcing our commerce and our educational ideas 
upon the Chinese is for the nations to decide, but 
only when such is done will they come to our concep- 
tion of life and our view of man's duty to man and 
his obligation to the Creator. Until then orthodox 
Christianity, with Its doctrines of the Trinity and of 

[ii6] 




A Country Lane with Bamboo 



i 




A Country Home 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

vicarious atonement, and with its different and rival 
sects each claiming to point the true road to heaven, 
will be a difficult thing for the Oriental mind to 
either apprehend or adopt. Good work has 
undoubtedly been done, and is doing, by our mis- 
sions in China, but the wider question suggests 
whether the results achieved justify the large ex- 
penditure of life and treasure involved, and whether 
the same energy and the same money would not yield 
a bigger and a better harvest if expended among our 
own people, free from all political upheavals and 
unrest. 



Manila, December 15, igoo. 
The Commission has been wrestling for some time 
with a liquor license law for Manila. The peculiar 
conditions existing here seem to make for a greater 
use and abuse of intoxicants than at home. The fact 
of climate and of being "East of Suez" doubtless 
have much to do with creating a thirst, but the lack 
of home and social restraints and of legitimate diver- 
sions also figure largely in the equation. The saloon, 
the beer hall, and hotel and club bars have become 
the natural gathering places for those with time 
upon their hands. As regards the sak)ons, a very 
large number of them front flush on the Escolta, the 
principal thoroughfare and shopping center of the 
city. As most of the thirsty ones have some sort of 
vehicle in waiting, the narrow streets and scant side- 
walks are frequently so jammed as to be almost im-^ 

[117] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

passable. Owing to our large army of occupation, 
American soldiers naturally predominate in these 
places, and as they usually imbibe with the same zest 
that they fight the spectacle afforded passersby is 
often anything but edifying. This is particularly 
true in view of the fact that few Filipinos ever be- 
come intoxicated. The native police are powerless 
to quiet or quell the frequent disorders which arise, 
while our soldier police are inclined to be lenient 
with their comrades. While all of our soldiers are 
not drinkers, the impression one gets is that the 
exception is small. 

As finally passed by the Commission, the law not 
only raises the liquor license tax but prohibits all 
saloons on the Escolta, Calle Rosario, and other im- 
portant streets and plazas. It also forbids the sale 
of any native wines such as "vino," " anisado," 
"tuba," etc., to American soldiers. While these 
concoctions are not particularly deadly if taken in 
moderation, they are very much so when consumed 
with the ambition peculiar to many of our soldiers. 
The purpose of the law is to reduce the number of 
saloons and to drive them from the principal streets 
to less conspicuous places. While it will not alto- 
gether remedy the evil, it will relieve the public of 
the worst exhibitions of it. One speaker before the 
Commission, with a naivete that was refreshing, 
asked if the law would interfere with his business 
of manufacturing liqueurs. Inquiry developed that 
he was producing from drugs and chemicals in an 
Escolta storeroom various high-priced liqueurs, such 

[1x8] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

as benedictlne, etc., which were being consumed by 
our epicures as fancy products of French and Span- 
ish vintage. Xhe law was naturally opposed by the 
saloonkeepers and by American commercial houses, 
the latter of which derive their largest profit from the 
sale of intoxicants. 

Another important matter before the Commission, 
and which has given rise to lengthy public discus- 
sion, is the proposed tariff governing imports into 
the islands. As the new system will be a radical 
departure from the old Spanish rates in force, the 
different importers are much concerned. The act is 
now being gone over item by item preparatory to 
sending to Washington. It will there be published in 
various trade journals, and an opportunity given our 
exporters to be heard upon it. As soon as returned 
it will be enacted into law and the present unequal 
and unsatisfactory schedules will be relegated to 
history. 

It has fallen to the Igorotes of Benguet to be the 
first of the island people to receive civil government. 
Although not partial to clothes, and with a reputation 
for dog eating which has somewhat sullied their 
fame, these men of the hills are said to be sturdy 
and self-reliant, with little yearning for indepen- 
dencia. Spain concerned herself very little with 
them, her efforts at government being limited to one 
or two military posts, with a sprinkling of coast Fili- 
pinos occupying minor positions in the villages. Now 
that their mountain retreat promises to become the 
summer capital of the islands, with an influx of 

[119] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

people in search of health and treasure, some form 
of government Is essential. 

Two acts have been passed, one extending a form 
of civil government to the townships and the other 
to the province. In the former, authority Is con- 
ferred upon the Igorotes to elect their own president 
and council, upon whom certain simple duties and 
obligations are Imposed. They are to fix the salaries 
of duly authorized officers and employes, to care for 
the construction and repair of trails and bridges, to 
preserve public order, to manage the property of the 
township, to fix certain license taxes, to make appro- 
priations for lawful expenditures, to erect needful 
government buildings, to enforce sanitary regula- 
tions, and do various other things of purely local 
concern. All ordinances and rules passed by them, 
however, are subject to approval by the provincial 
governor before becoming effective. Provision is 
made for a meeting of all the presidents twice a 
year to confer with the provincial governor. They 
are also authorized to elect a popular representative, 
whose duty It Is to report to the chief executive any 
grievance for which the people cannot obtain redress 
from the provincial authorities. The underlying idea 
is to awaken an Interest In the people by giving them 
active participation In local affairs and at the same 
time retain sufficient control to prevent injustice to 
individuals. 

The officers of the province are a governor, secre- 
tary, and inspector. They are entrusted with large 
powers of supervision over the towns, and are to act 

[120] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

as guides, counselors, and friends of the people in 
every emergency. Should any municipal council fail 
to perform its duties, the governor is authorized to 
issue suitable orders for securing action, which orders 
have the force of law. His general duty is outlined 
as follows : 

The constant aim of the governor shall be to aid 
the people of the several townships of the province 
to acquire the knowledge and experience necessary 
for successful local popular government, and his 
supervision and control shall be confined within the 
narrowest limits consistent with the requirement 
that the powers of government in the townships 
shall be honestly and effectively exercised, and that 
law and order and individual freedom shall be main- 
tained. 

The Commission was greatly assisted In the 
preparation of these acts by Mr. Otto Sheerer, a 
German of education, who has lived among the Igo- 
rotes for a number of years, and who not only speaks 
their language but seems to have identified himself 
largely with their life and interests. He was ap- 
pointed Provincial Secretary, while H , Phelps 
Whitmarsh, a journalist and writer, with a wide 
experience of people and places, has been appointed 
Provincial Governor. 

It is hoped to have a wagon road into Bagulo 
within a comparatively short time. Capt. C. W. 
Mead, U. S. V., the engineer in charge of survey, 
reports that such a road can be completed within 
six months at a cost of $75,000. An act has accord- 

[121] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

ingly been drafted appropriating this amount and 
directing that the work be pushed to completion by 
July I, 1901. 



Manila, January 5, igoi. 
Much has happened since my previous letter, both 
politically and otherwise. Possibly the event of 
greatest importance, and one which has most heart- 
ened the Commission in its work, was the creation 
during December of what is known as the Federal 
Party. Through this party, organized by the most 
influential and representative Filipinos of the islands, 
there has been crystallized into definite form the 
desire of the great body of the people to end hostili- 
ties. It has for its platform peace under American 
sovereignty, with eventual statehood under our flag. 
Dr. T. H. Pardo de Tavera, a Filipino of brilliant 
attainments and of European training and culture, 
is president of the party, while among its directors 
and members are men who ranked high in the coun- 
cils of the insurgent government at Malolos, and who 
are recognized as leaders among their people. 
Branches are being established throughout the 
islands, and the movement is bound to have a tre- 
mendous influence for good. The evident sincerity 
of the Commission, and the spirit of justice which 
has animated Its work, have convinced thinking and 
earnest Filipinos that they can safely trust their 
destiny to our keeping. Many Filipinos in the prov- 
inces, however, who know nothing but the rigors of 

[122] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

military rule, can hardly be expected to appreciate 
our benevolent intentions. To such of these as are 
sincere in their struggle it is the purpose of this new 
party to send agents to explain what the Commission 
has done, and proposes doing, and urge their sur- 
render. More than anything else, however, the party 
will furnish a rallying point for all those willing to 
accept our sovereignty, but who, through want of 
organization, have thus far been terrified into 
silence. As the sub-committees in the various towns 
are composed largely of those to whom the people 
look for guidance, it will give the latter courage to 
resist the impositions of guerrilla and ladrone bands 
that now levy contributions upon them under the 
guise of "military orders." 

At present our army is principally occupied in pro- 
tecting and policing the provincial towns, and in 
heart-breaking "hikes" after these guerrilla bands. 
The task of wiping them out is almost hopeless, how- 
ever, unless the people themselves coopejrate by 
denouncing the offenders and refusing them informa- 
tion and supplies. Much of the country is rough and 
broken, and the enemy when hard pressed have a 
habit of hiding their guns and becoming all at once 
most innocent looking aminos. If exasperated sol- 
diers occasionally apply the "water cure" as an aid 
to memory, there is some provocation if not justifica- 
tion for their act. It is with toil and travail, and with 
blood and money, that we are getting back those 
rifles distributed by Dewey to Aguinaldo's army. 

Another move which will likely have a salutary 
[123] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

effect Is an order just Issued for the deportation to 
Guam of certain prominent agitators now confined In 
Manila. This will not only eliminate them from the 
scene but will convince others that the day for 
temporizing has passed and that further resistance 
to our authority cannot go unpunished. To coddle 
this class of persons longer would be unfair to all 
those Filipinos who desire peace and who are 
cooperating with us In securing It. 

McKInley's election, and the more stringent policy 
now being pursued, have resulted In a rapid improve- 
ment of conditions. In the Island of Panay alone 
over 35,000 persons have taken the oath of 
allegiance since November. The few scattered 
Insurgents still out are showing little aggressiveness, 
and many of them are negotiating surrender. As 
for Agulnaldo, he Is believed to be hiding some- 
where among the mountains of Northern Luzon. 
Except for the sentimental influence exerted by his 
still being at large, he has ceased to be a factor in the 
situation. 

We have celebrated our first Christmas and New 
Year in the Philippines, but there was little to Identify 
the time except the calendar. The heat of tropic 
skies and the foliage of a perpetual summer do not 
harmonize with our conception of the holiday sea- 
son. Memory persisted In calling up visions of snow 
and Ice, of cool, crisp air, of gorgeous shop windows, 
of kindred and friends, and all the glad cheer to 
which we are exile. One felt that he was being cheated ; 
that Providence or the weather man had some- 

[124] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

how gotten things mixed. It was a time of home- 
sickness, with a burden of longing for the things that 
were which refused to be satisfied. The " staring 
Eastern days " came and went with nothing to mark 
them except the ceaseless ringing of church bells. 
These latter pounded and clamored for nine days, 
beginning at the unholy hour of five in the morning. 
I have not yet solved, nor have I had explained, just 
what connection there is between the sleep-destroying 
practice and anything either Christmas or Christian. 

It was my good fortune to escape from Manila 
over Christmas, having been invited to spend the day 
with Dr. and Mrs. Thomas at Apalit. While a 
greater contrast between their surroundings and any- 
thing to be found in the States could hardly be 
imagined, there was the compensation of novelty and 
good comradeship. Christmas eve witnessed an 
elaborate church procession, the native padre and 
image of the Virgin in the lead, followed by a con- 
course of villagers with gayly lighted " floats," tissue 
lanterns, and a band. Mass was celebrated at mid- 
night, which we heard from the choir loft. Report 
had it that later some of the prominent citizens, 
including the padre, played monte until daybreak, but 
there may be a mistake as to the hour. 

Christmas day held a variety of diversions. The 
Thomas "nipa" fronts directly on the main thor- 
oughfare, and furnished a coign of vantage to ob- 
serve the restless flow of village life. Just at their 
gate Is a native tienda, whose presiding goddess, 
being quite comely, is popular with our soldiers. 

[125] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Early Christmas morning I overheard two of the 
latter discussing the weighty problem of church go- 
ing. Finally one of them, who had evidently been 
celebrating well if not wisely, remarked to his com- 
rade: "I have been to church every Christmas in 
my life, and I am going today if I die the next min- 
ute." Let us hope his resolution carried no such 
disastrous consequence. In the afternoon Captain 
Butler drove by in an army ambulance and short 
calls were made on the Arnedos, Buencaminos, 
Espiritus, and others. We were received at each 
place with good cheer and a hospitality truly 
genuine. 

We took dinner that evening at the cuartel with 
Captain Butler and Lieutenant Pond, the other 
guests being Macario and Eugenio Arnedo, of 
Apalit, and Tomas G. d^l Rosario and Ramon 
Genato, of Manila. A village turkey had been sacri- 
ficed and the army commissary drawn upon for such 
dainties as it afforded. The dinner was purely Amer- 
ican. Dishes were few and the cutlery such as army 
life affords. The table was set in the long hall run- 
ning the length of the convent building, our light 
being two kerosene lamps, which acted as beacons 
for all manner of winged creatures. Grasshoppers 
and crickets held high festival on the board, and it 
frequently became necessary to carefully fish them 
from our glasses. Such things, however, were a 
mere detail to what"proved a most interesting and 
delightful spread. Our Filipino friends, who are 
highly educated and traveled, were fully alive to the 

[126] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

issues of the day and threw many sidelights on condi- 
tions in the islands both preceding and immediately 
following American occupation. Senor Rosario, 
who is now one of the leaders of the new Federal 
party, was one of Spain's deportados, having spent 
some time in one of her north African penal colonies. 
The character they gave the former regime was nat- 
urally anything but flattering. It chanced that on 
my return to Manila next day I shared a compart- 
ment with a Spaniard who has spent most of his life 
in the Philippines and who held high position under 
his government. He gave me the Spanish side of the 
story, and it was in vivid contrast to the one heard 
the previous evening. He said there were but three 
honest Filipinos in the islands, naming them, and 
that the others were utterly untrustworthy. His talk 
breathed all of the medieval Spanish spirit, there 
being a profusion of recommendations to shoot, kill, 
and destroy, our plan of granting the people a par- 
ticipation in the government being scouted as alto- 
gether Utopian. With us in the compartment, and 
inclined to agree with the Spanish Colonel, was an 
Englishman, now secretary to General Bates. He is 
of the adventurous type and has been a wanderer 
most of his days. From his story he was through the 
rebellion in Brazil which overthrew the monarchy 
of Don Pedro ; was five years in South Africa, where 
he took part in the Matabele campaign, and partici- 
pated in the survey of the Cape to Cairo telegraph 
line, having been alone near Victoria Falls fourteen 
months without seeing a white face; he served also 

[127] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

for a time on the staff of the Viceroy of India, hunt- 
ing tigers in far interior Indian provinces. There is 
scarcely a country he has not visited. This far edge 
of the world holds many such strange characters, 
and while some of them are adventurers, and some 
are outside the pale, it is to be said that few of them 
are fools. \ The foolish and the dull do not, as a rule, 
stray very far from home or the beaten paths of 
life. ^ 

On New Year's eve occurred the monthly dance 
of the Army & Navy Assembly at the Provost Mar- 
shal Building. The departure of the old year and the 
old century, and the advent of the new, were im- 
pressively marked. Just before twelve o'clock two 
buglers stepped out and the mellow call of "taps" 
sounded through the hall. Then, as the midnight 
gun boomed over the city, the buglers again ad- 
vanced and there rang out clear and sweet the call 
of " reveille," the awakening of a new year and of 
the new century. As the echo, with all its mighty 
suggestion, died away, the band crashed into the 
strains of the " Star Spangled Banner," which always 
causes one's blood to riot. Never, however, has its 
message come to me with more thrilling power than 
in that hour when, standing on the verge of the 
twentieth century, one's mind leaped forward to all 
that could or might happeri to our country and to 
mankind before another such epoch dawned upon 
the world. In this far off land, where strife and 
turmoil exist, and where the passions of men are 
stirred over real or fancied wrongs, one's patriotism 

[128] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

is reborn, and all question of our country's high pur- 
pose or destiny is fiercely challenged. Whatever may 
be the feelings of this people toward us today, there 
rests with me the belief and the conviction that a 
hundred years from now their descendants will bless 
the chance that brought our flag to their shores and 
taught them the message for which it has ever stood 
— Liberty, Progress, and Equality. 

On New Year's afternoon eight of us, upon invi- 
tation of General Frederick Grant, took the train for 
Angeles, some four hours north of Manila, where he 
has his headquarters. In the party were Commis- 
sioners Moses and Worcester, Miss Briggs, Mr. 
and Mrs. LeRoy, Mr. Winthrop, Mr. Emery (Asso- 
ciated Press correspondent) , and myself. We had a 
special car set apart for us and the railroad trip was 
made in comparative comfort. Upon reaching 
Angeles we were lodged at headquarters, and found 
General Grant a genial and capital host. After din- 
ner — which destroyed any illusions we may have 
had as to the privations of provincial life — we 
strolled about the village in the soft moonlight, which 
lit up with gorgeous splendor the palms and tropical 
foliage of the nipa-lined streets. 

One of the objects of our visit was to see some 
" Negritos," the aboriginal race of the islands, quite 
a number of whom still inhabit the Zambales Moun- 
tains. They have nothing of the Malay about them, 
and are classed by ethnologists among the lowest 
order of human beings now extant The rendezvous 
was to be a little village among the foothills, about 

[129] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

nine miles distant. The start was made at eight- 
thirty next morning in army ambulances, the road 
proving of the roughest. As we were now in the 
"enemy's country," we were accompanied by a 
mounted escort of one hundred men. The effect was 
quite warlike, particularly when we came to a large 
clearing, or crossed a flowing stream, where the 
troops were all visible. On reaching our destination 
we found that our expected host, who had arranged 
to secure the Negritos, was in jail. After inviting 
the General and party to visit him, and making prep- 
arations for the feast, correspondence was dis- 
covered showing him to be the insurgent president 
of Bacolor, a large adjoining town. He sent word 
from jail, however, to repair to his house, where 
the Negritos would be waiting for us. His wife and 
son received us quite hospitably and seemed little 
concerned about the fate of the head of the house. 
The wife remarked that if he was guilty it served 
him right to be in jail. The incident illustrates how 
abnormal Is the situation here, and how impossible 
it is to know the real thoughts of these people from 
anything they profess. 

Only five Negritos had been secured, three men 
and two women, as they are very timid. They are 
small of stature, and though their hair is kinky, they 
have none of the features of the African negro. They 
are inoffensive and have given our soldiers no 
trouble. They performed a weird sort of dance to 
the music of a bamboo band, and also gave some 
rather remarkable exhibitions with a bow and arrow, 

[130] 




Negritos in the Forest 










Negritos at Home 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

their only weapon. Altogether it was a strange 
gathering, grading up through every class of human- 
ity from the little black men, with their primitive 
intelligence, to the highest types of American man- 
hood and womanhood. The setting was an ideal 
one, the outlook being over a broad sweep of hill, 
mountain, and valley, reminding one much of 
Switzerland. Our drive back to Angeles in the late 
afternoon was picturesque and refreshing. After 
dinner we sat on the broad veranda chatting and 
listening to a band concert. The air was pleasantly 
cool, while the bright moonlight on the palms and 
the white-garbed figures about us served to make a 
strangely foreign picture. General Grant told of his 
work in the province and recited many interesting 
stories connected with the people. He is very demo- 
cratic and has been quite successful in his work of 
pacification. We returned to Manila the following 
afternoon, feeling that we had added another 
valuable experience to our fast increasing store. 



[131] 



VIII 

PROVINCIAL, MUNICIPAL, AND SCHOOL 
LAWS 

Manila, January 75, igoi. 
/^NE of the most hopeful signs for the future of 
^-^ this people is their eagerness for an education. 
The demand for schools has been so insistent that 
the Commission is giving the matter preferred atten- 
tion. During Spanish rule education was controlled 
largely by the clergy, with the result that religion 
and religious subjects composed most of the curricu- 
lum. Scarcely any effort was made to teach Spanish 
to the masses, and possibly ninety-five per cent of the 
children of school age today speak only their local 
dialect. None of these dialects possess any litera- 
ture of consequence, and to give instruction in any 
of them would simply perpetuate the provincialism 
of the people. While Spanish is spoken by most of 
the gente fina, or influential class, their number is 
small compared with the whole population. What 
the people require, if any scheme of ultimate inde- 
pendence is to be realized, is the unifying influence 
of a common language, with a literature telling 
something of governments whose people have 
learned to submit to the will of a majority. We 

[132] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

have promised to train them along this path, and 
consequently propose to do at once what Spain never 
did in all her sovereignty; i.e., teach the people one 
language — English — throughout the entire archi- 
pelago. Although this policy may create a single 
tongue to criticise us and to demand our withdrawal, 
we are big enough to take this risk and to meet it 
when it comes. 

The question upon which there is most argument 
is whether religious instruction shall be permitted 
in the schools. Ordinarily it would make little dif- 
ference, but with the fierce hatred existing here 
against the Friars, any action seeming to favor them 
is construed as a surrender to their influence. We 
are told by the speakers that church and state are 
entirely separate in America, and are asked why the 
same principle should not apply here. Many good 
Catholics, on the other hand, cannot understand a 
system of education wherein the religious element is 
lacking, placing the training of their children in 
church doctrine far above mere worldly knowledge. 
Much eloquence has been spent on the subject, it 
being the first important question upon which the 
Commission has divided. Judge Taft and Commis- 
sioners Wright and Worcester feel some account 
should be taken of the fact that for generations 
religious instruction has been a matter for State 
intervention. Commissioners Ide and Moses believe 
the public schools and questions of dogma and doc- 
trine should be altogether divorced. The act as 
finally drawn makes certain concessions to the church, 

[133] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

but with such restrictions as to disarm serious objec- 
tion. Regular teachers are forbidden to teach or 
criticise the doctrines of any church, or attempt to 
influence their pupils for or against any religious 
sect. The priest or minister of any church is per- 
mitted, however, to use the school building for half 
an hour three times a week for religious instruction; 
this for pupils whose parents wish it and express a 
desire therefor in writing filed with the principal 
teacher of the school. Any religious teacher who 
uses this privilege to rouse disloyalty to the United 
States, or to discourage the attendance of pupils at 
the public schools, will be denied further entrance to 
the school building. The substance of the concession 
is that government property may be used under cer- 
tain limitations for religious purposes. As there 
are more churches than schools in the islands, and 
the use of the latter by the church authorities will 
likely be misconstrued by the ignorant and preju- 
diced, the necessity or wisdom of the concession is 
open to question. How it will work out remains to 
be seen. 



January 21 , igoi. 
For some weeks a Municipal Code and a Pro- 
vincial Government Act have been under prepara- 
tion by the Commission. As these acts will define 
the participation to be given the people in their local 
affairs, there has been considerable concern in shap- 
ing their provisions. Under Spain the archipelago 

[134] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

was divided into forty-seven provinces or districts, 
which were subdivided into some nine hundred 
municipalities. It is the purpose of the Commission 
to retain these old divisions so far as economical 
administration will permit, the people placing great 
store upon their particular towns and provinces. 
The proposed Municipal Code is now undergoing 
public dissection, and, like the brook, the talk 
threatens to go on forever. Any lack of interest 
originally shown in these meetings is now being 
amply compensated, the session hall being crowded. 
As recorder it is my duty to make a verbatim report 
of the various speeches and then condense them for 
the Commission records. Very often this simmering 
process fails to disclose a single idea or suggestion 
on the subject in hand. The speakers usually spend 
several minutes eulogizing the commission and 
descanting upon their own unfitness to offer sugges- 
tions; they then start with the creation of the world 
and follow the course of history through all its 
devious windings down to the present ; at some stage 
they usually refer to the particular law under discus- 
sion as "transcendental," and then, without ever 
coming to the point, dramatically finish with the 
exclamation, he dicho — I have spoken. On a few 
occasions the speakers have gotten so involved they 
have asked permission of the Commission to stop 
talking. Of course, valuable suggestions are often 
received, and the above characterization does not 
apply to all. When it is remembered that everything 
said, whether by Commissioners or by persons 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

addressing them, must be interpreted from English 
into Spanish, and vice versa, and that the dimate 
is tropical and decidedly soporific, the patience of 
the Commission in sitting hour after hour listening to 
these verbal pyrotechnics is something to marvel at. 
What with almost continuous public sessions, and 
with executive sessions whenever they can be 
snatched, there is precious little time for the "sim- 
mering process " referred to above. From every 
side is heard a wail for more stenographers. None 
are to be had here, while the machinery of the United 
States Civil Service, which has been invoked, grinds 
very, very slowly. 

General conditions throughout the Islands con- 
tinue to Improve rapidly. The spread of the new 
Federal Party has been phenomenal. It has swept 
over the Islands like wildfire and now numbers Its 
adherents by tens of thousands. It has received the 
cooperation and best wishes of the Commission In 
its propaganda, something which cannot be said un- 
reservedly of our army friends. It has seemed that 
certain of the latter fear that some of the glory of 
"suppressing the Insurrection" may rest with this 
party rather than with them. 

Another vital factor In bringing about a better 
understanding has been the laws enacted by the Com- 
mission. Promises made to the people, and con- 
cerning which they were naturally skeptical, are now 
being put into concrete form, and, wonder of won- 
ders, they find themselves accorded greater privi- 
leges than they had asked, or than they could have 

[136] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

hoped to enjoy under any government of their own. 
They are beginning to reahze vaguely that the Com- 
mission is legislating for them; that it is establishing 
schools and teaching their children one language; 
that it is building roads and harbors, and attempt- 
ing in every way to bring to them those things which 
have made us great and powerful; that we are not 
here to oppress them, but to give them every liberty 
and privilege which they can grasp and hold, and 
that there is promised them finally, when they shall 
have grown to man's stature, either a place as citi- 
zens under our flag or an opportunity to govern 
themselves. This is the gospel that Is being 
preached the people by the Commission and by the 
leaders of the Federal Party, and it Is the gospel 
that is destined to work the regeneration of this 
people so far as race, climate, and previous environ- 
ment will permit. 

This missionary work, combined with the in- 
creased activity of the army and the deportation of 
certain irreconcilables to Guam, has created a con- 
dition justifying the early extension of civil govern- 
ment to the towns and provinces. The Commission 
hopes to enter upon this work early next month, the 
plan being to visit all the provinces and personally 
explain to the people the scheme of government pro- 
vided. While pride, or a mistaken zeal, still causes 
a number of " Generals," " Colonels," and other 
paper officials to refuse all overtures of peace, it Is 
believed an act recently passed carried an argument 
for surrender which will appeal to most of them. 

[137] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

This act provides that all persons who on the first 
of April, 1901, shall be in arms against the authority 
and sovereignty of the United States in the islands, 
and all persons aiding or abetting them after that 
date, will be disqualified to hold any office of honor, 
trust or profit in the Philippine Islands. To this 
people official position of some kind is the sine qua 
non of existence. To hold office in the old days 
meant not only social prestige and comparative ease, 
but usually an opportunity to exploit their less for- 
tunate brethren. It meant influence, power, and 
that adulation and homage which is the breath of 
life to a society given largely to the worship of exter- 
nals. To be indefinitely deprived of an opportunity 
to hold office, therefore, will be a punishment whose 
dire consequences will likely outweigh the transitory 
glory now attending high rank in a scattered army 
or a non-existent republic. 

In the greater interest of matters political, I have 
neglected all reference to that perennial subject — 
the climate. As it is a feature of this life which 
looms large to people contemplating living In the 
islands, and is a source of almost constant worry to 
them after they get here, the topic should not be 
lightly sidetracked. It is customary, of course, to 
regard all tropical countries as hot and pestilential, 
and returning soldiers and others have not spared 
pains to paint the Philippines as the "jumping-off 
place" — whatever that may be. In this matter, as 
in most others, much depends upon the point of view 
and a great deal upon one's digestion. In truth, the 

[138] 



^r?.:a#'~'-*5 "•' ^-"r/" ',nir«;:""'-'\v "r<.%' 








THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

climate of Manila is far from disagreeable, and not 
a single member of the Commission or staff has 
missed a day's work through illness. The thermom- 
eter seldom rises above ninety, while the nights are 
almost invariably cool enough for restful sleep. We 
have none of that sweltering, moist heat peculiar to 
summer months in the States, nor does any particu- 
lar day stand out as uncomfortable. The evil lies 
not in any extreme heat, but in the uniform absence 
of any crispness In the air; a lack of tone and brace 
which, it is said, eventually saps the vitality, devel- 
ops nerves, sours the temper, and leaves one non- 
reslstent when disease does come. Thus far there 
has been no apparent diminution of steam power 
on the part of the Commission, though a collapse 
is predicted when the reserve energy brought from 
home is exhausted. 



February 6, igoi. 
The Municipal Code and Provincial Government 
Act have, after exhaustive discussion, been finally 
enacted into law. The task has proven somewhat 
strenuous, involving, as it does, the granting of a 
large measure of popular control to a people who, 
while endowed with a sublime self-confidence, have 
had no experience in the responsibilities of self-gov- 
ernment. Just how difficult It has been to devise a 
scheme to fit such conditions can hardly be appre- 
ciated by persons whose ancestors have been trained 
since the days of Alfred to express their will through 
town meetings and elective assemblies. 

[139] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

The Municipal Code makes the government of 
the towns practically autonomous. While it was the 
aim to keep the law simple, it was found necessary 
to specify in considerable detail the powers and 
limitations of the different municipal officers. Under 
Spanish administration a public official may have 
been responsible to those above, but seldom or never 
to those beneath him. Saturated as the people are, 
therefore, with the idea that any demand made by a 
person in authority must be obeyed, the present law 
lays stress upon the fact that the government now 
sought to be implanted is one of limited and pre- 
scribed powers, and that public officials have no 
rights beyond those expressly conferred upon them. 
When the people thoroughly appreciate this fact 
they will have learned their first great lesson in true 
self-government. 

The act vests municipal authority in a President, 
Vice-President, and Council, all elected by the 
people. The number of councillors varies according 
to population, each councillor being charged with 
the welfare of a particular barrio, or ward. The 
treasurer and secretary are appointed by the town 
president with the consent of the council. Only the 
president, secretary, and treasurer draw salary. The 
right of suffrage is limited to males twenty-three 
years of age who have — (a) held some municipal 
office in Spanish times; (b) who own real property 
of the value of five hundred pesos or pay an annual 
tax of thirty pesos; or (c) those who speak, read, 
and write English or Spanish. The act is explicit 

[140] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

in prescribing the manner of holding elections, and 
incorporates all necessary forms. The sources of 
public revenue and the duties of the various officials 
are minutely defined. Provision is made for a real 
estate tax, something new to these islands. This 
feature met with considerable opposition when the 
law was discussed, the persons addressing the Com- 
mission being of the class most affected by such a 
provision. They found it difficult, however, to 
answer the argument that everyone should be taxed 
according to his means. The purpose of this tax is 
not only to work justice in the matter of contribu- 
tions, but to compel landed proprietors to either 
cultivate their holdings or subdivide and sell them. 
In view of the ravages of war and other recent disas- 
ters, the land tax is small, the maximum allowed in 
the towns being one-half of one per cent. Of this 
at least one-fourth of one per cent must be devoted 
exclusively to the support of free primary schools 
and the erection of school buildings. Ample pro- 
vision is made for the assessment and collection of 
the tax, for delinquent sales, etc., leaving as little 
margin as possible for injustice and inequality. 

The provincial government act is largely supple- 
mentary to the Municipal Code, the provincial 
officers being charged with a wide degree of super- 
vision over the towns. The officers consist of a 
governor, treasurer, supervisor, secretary, and fiscal 
— the latter corresponding to our prosecuting attor- 
ney. The supervisor must be a civil engineer and 
has special charge of roads, bridges, and buildings. 

[141] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

The governor, treasurer, and supervisor constltxite 
a provincial board, being the governing body of the 
province. The treasurer collects, in addition to the 
provincial taxes, all funds pertaining to the munici- 
palities except fines, market fees, and ferry tolls. 
The money so collected by him is turned over to the 
municipal treasurers, who furnish regular statements 
of their expenditures, thus enabling an absolute 
check to be kept of their accounts. The provincial 
tax on real estate is limited to three-eighths of one 
per cent, of which at least one-eighth of one per cent 
must be destined to the construction and repair of 
roads and bridges. The assessment of lands, both 
in the provinces and towns, is under the supervision 
of the provincial treasurer, special deputies acting 
with the municipal president and secretary in deter- 
mining values. All revenues collected, whether in 
the towns or provinces, are applied locally, none of 
the moneys being remitted to the central treasury. 
This differs radically from the Spanish method, 
where all contributions centered in the treasury at 
Manila, little of the money finding its way back to 
benefit the contributors. The provincial governor 
is required to visit all the towns in his province at 
least twice a year, and to receive and hear com- 
plaints from the people concerning the conduct of 
their officers. The position of governor is elective, 
while those of the other officers are appointive. All 
except the fiscal are brought under the classified civil 
service after March, 1902. The governor is chosen 
for a term of two years, being elected by a majority 

[142] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

vote of all the municipal councillors. This naturally 
means that the provincial governors will be Fili- 
pinos. The plan is to extend the general provincial 
law to the provinces by special act, which will pre- 
scribe the salaries to be paid and certain such other 
terms as local conditions require. The first election 
for governors will be held in February, 1902. Until 
then they will be appointed by the Commission. 

There can be no question but that these acts go 
far toward delegating control in local affairs to the 
people themselves, and should convince the most 
skeptical that we are not here to despoil or oppress 
them. 

Another act worked in during odd intervals is one 
regulating the hours of labor, leaves of absence, etc., 
of appointees under the Philippine Civil Service. By 
this act not less than six hours of labor each day 
is required of all employes, while more can be ex- 
acted without extra compensation; annual leave 
ranging from fifteen to thirty-five days is provided, 
based upon salary. This leave may be accumulated 
for three years for a visit to the States, in which 
event the time required in going to and from San 
Francisco Is added at half salary. Sick leave not 
exceeding sixty days each year may be granted by 
heads of departments. Persons residing in the 
States appointed to the service are allowed their 
traveling expenses, San Francisco to Manila, with 
half salary en route. A person employed In the 
service for three years will, upon retirement, be 
furnished transportation, Manila to San Francisco, 

[143] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

with half salary for thirty days in addition to ac- 
crued leave. While these provisions are apparently 
liberal, it is felt they are none too much so to secure 
and keep good men in the service. 



[ 144] 




A Tropical River 




:-:rC\>h.* 



A River Scene, Pagsanjan, Laguna 



IX 

PROVINCIAL ORGANIZATION 

Manila, February ig, igoi. 
np HE Commission has made a beginning in its 
work of provincial organization. We returned 
yesterday from a pilgrimage of seven days to the 
north of Manila, during which civil government was 
extended to the provinces of Pampanga, Pangasinan, 
and Tarlac. It was a week of vivid incident, and if 
our experiences during these days are a measure of 
what awaits us in the thirty and odd provinces yet 
to be organized, then fate has reserved for us a 
series of sensations more varied and unique than 
often fall to the lot of men. 

We left Manila on the morning of the twelfth, 
the party occupying special coaches on the regular 
Manila-Dagupan train. Our cast of characters was 
as follows: Taft, Worcester, Wright, and Moses, 
Commissioners; Fergusson, General Secretary; 
Branagan, Disbursing Officer; Williams, Recorder; 
LeRoy, Heiskell, Carpenter, and Swindell, Secre- 
taries; Arellano, Chief Justice; Tavera, Flores, and 
Herrera of the Federal Party; Emery of the Asso- 
ciated Press; McDonnell of the New York Sun, and 
Juan de Juan, Loyzaga, and Gonzalez of the Span- 

[145] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

ish-Filipino Press. General Grant, in whose district 
Pampanga is situated, was stage manager for the 
initial performance. Our railroad destination was 
San Fernando, fifty miles distant. Notice of the 
coming of the Commission had been given the 
municipal officers of the different pueblos, with 
request that they meet us in convention at the 
capitals of their respective provinces. 

Our progress along the railroad was a continuous 
ovation. The first stop was at Bocaue, where a 
throng of people and two bands — both playing at 
once — heralded our arrival. A number of leading 
citizens, dressed in customary official black, said 
they were glad to see us — to which Judge Taft 
responded nosotros tamhien. General Flores then 
made a short talk in Tagalog, the purport of which 
was that if the people behaved themselves things 
would come their way. The crowd in the meantime 
gazed at us in petrified silence, broken only when 
the train started by ''Vivas" for "La Comision 
Civil'' for "America," and various other entities. 
At Guiguinto we had more music and more speeches, 
Dr. Tavera getting into the game here with some 
good advice to the populace. It is to be said, how- 
ever, that this oratorical part of the program was 
held under difficulties, as these diminutive cars do 
not lend themselves to platform speaking. When a 
goodly sized man doubles himself out of one of 
these small windows the sight is more amusing than 
inspiring to all but the devout. 

The above proceeding was repeated with varia- 
[146] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

tions as to speakers at Malolos and Calumpit. There 
was the same sea of brown, upturned faces, the same 
eager, absorbed expressions, and the same variety 
of costume and " Vivas." En route there spread 
ever about us all the picturesque panorama of a 
tropical land, of which one never grows tired. We 
saw old Arayat looming purple th'rough the haze; 
saw the rice paddies and the carabaos; saw the dark 
green fringe of bamboo along the fields, and the 
little nipas peering from the deep-leafed shade of 
the banana groves. The spirits of the party bubbled 
over at the novelty and freshness of it all. 

At San Fernando, where we left the train, the 
military added their pageantry to that of the natives, 
the place being decked in holiday attire. Carriages 
were in waiting, and we were conducted in state 
through a succession of streets spanned by triumphal 
arches of palm and bamboo. The schools had been 
dismissed and the children, each with a tiny Amer- 
ican flag stuck stiffly in front, were lined up to greet 
us. A short stop was made at Colonel Page's head* 
quarters, where something was taken to clear the 
dust from our throats. We then started for Baco- 
lor, a mile and a half distant, where the convention 
was to be held. Reaching the environs of the town, 
we found all the houses, not excepting the little 
nipas, gaily decorated for the occasion. Some of 
these efforts were rather pathetic, but the spirit was 
all right. There were queer-painted little flags of 
paper and cloth, the number of stars and stripes 
being often hopelessly mixed. Again you would see 

[147] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

a white cloth hung in a window, a patch of red 
perhaps appearing in the center, the whole set off by 
paper lanterns of various fantastic designs. Here, 
as in San Fernando, numerous arches of elaborate 
construction spanned the various streets, a testimony 
to the skill of native craftsmen. 

Our first stop was at the house of Judge Maca- 
pinlac, where greetings were duly exchanged. Later 
we repaired to the home of Senor Santos, where 
tiffin was served, which, however, was more than a 
tiffin — it was a dissipation. There were six meat 
courses, and others in proportion, with all sorts of 
wines, dukes, fruits, and other puzzles to diges- 
tion. It seems meat is something of a luxury, and 
the more of it served during a meal, the better the 
latter is supposed to be. 

After luncheon the Commissioners disappeared 
for a much-needed siesta, they being guests of Santos. 
We attaches sat around, drowsy with the heat and 
much eating, waiting to be assigned quarters. Pres- 
ently a messenger reported he had found the desired 
haven, whereupon Branagan, Carpenter, LeRoy, 
Swindell, and I packed our grips into a carromata 
and descended upon one Felix Rodriguez, our desig- 
nated victim. He looked somewhat dazed at the 
onslaught, but came to the center smiling. We were 
invited to sit down, and the usual cigars and cigar- 
ettes made the round. Judge Arellano was present, 
while we could see General Flores in the offing. Con- 
versation developed that there were but three beds 
in the house, two of which were already bespoken 

[148] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

by Arellano and Flores, not to mention the needs 
of our host and family. He courteously offered us 
the third bed, but as we numbered five, the idea did 
not appeal, and we sorrowfully took up our trek. 
After various experiences, too sad to chronicle, we 
finally learned that we were to lodge at Guagua, 
headquarters of Major Wholly, three miles distant. 
In the meantime we succeeded in washing up a bit 
and finding a nook in the Santos house to dress for 
dinner. 

Shortly before seven the entire party repaired to 
the provincial building, where a banquet was spread. 
The patio was agleam with lanterns, while a pro- 
fusion of flags, palms, and greenstuff made the hall 
a scene of splendor. Sixty-two people sat down to 
table. It was a great feast under any circumstances, 
but in a small provincial town whose buildings were 
in ruin and whose people were impoverished by war, 
it was remarkable. In praising the dinner, Judge 
Taft well said that no town of like size in the States 
could equal It. There was such an overflowing 
abundance it sort of appalled one. The people and 
the occasion, however, were greater than the set- 
ting, worthy as it was. It marked the beginning of 
popular government in the Philippines under Amer- 
ican sovereignty, and no man could tell the end. 
About the table were grouped the representatives 
of peace and war and the best the Filipinos could 
produce from among their own sons. Following 
the dinner, speeches were made by Judge Taft, by 
Sefior Joven of Bacolor, by General Grant, Commls- 

[149] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

sloner Worcester, Judge Arellano, Dr. Tavera, 
General Floras, and Colonel Page. The speeches 
were splendid, and all of them breathed a spirit of 
kindliness, of confidence, and of good will which 
could not but impress favorably all who heard them. 

At 9 130 the next morning the Commission met In 
public session with the presidents, councillors, and 
leading citizens of the twenty-five pueblos of the 
province. The roll of the towns was called and the 
delegates arose In turn and responded. They were 
serious and attentive and made a very favorable 
Impression. Judge Taft then spoke to them, setting 
out In simple language the purposes of the Commis- 
sion In their behalf, and explaining In detail the pro- 
visions and scope of the new provincial law. The 
public was then Invited to make suggestions, and 
quite a number responded. While the suggestions 
were generally directed to some point already 
threshed out by the Commission In executive session, 
the proposed amendments were favorably consid- 
ered whenever possible. At twelve the meeting ad- 
journed for another so-called tiffin, but which proved, 
like that of the previous day, to be a sumptuous din- 
ner. Our host at tiffin — Sefior Rodriguez — did 
not sit at table with us, but assisted In serving, which 
seems to be a custom of the country. 

In the afternoon session the special act applying 
the provincial law to Pampanga was passed and the 
provincial officers named. Sefior Joven, president 
of Bacolor, was appointed governor, and thus was 
accomplished the first real step toward granting the 

[150] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

Filipino people a participation in their own govern- 
ment. The occasion was an impressive one. As 
the early evening shadows lengthened through the 
hall and threw into deeper shade that sea of dark, 
upturned faces, you felt the hour charged by fate 
with tremendous possibilities. You wondered 
whether the people would rise to their opportunity, 
and in the new way opened for them realize the 
high destiny painted by the speakers of the after- 
noon, or would their impatience, their desire to 
grasp too soon the reins of power, blind them to 
the gifts which were freely offered, and change their 
words of praise to words of hate? 

The next province on the list was Pangasinan, the 
convention to be held at Dagupan, the terminus of 
the railroad. We left San Fernando early next 
morning and reached Dagupan in the afternoon. 
The train ride was an interesting one, the ground 
covered being new to most of us. The press repre- 
sentatives, together with most of the attaches, occu- 
pied one car, and a bohemian crowd it was. We had 
a basket lunch, supplemented by bananas anfd cocoa- 
nuts secured en route. The day was warm, and 
through the windows floated the necessary dust and 
cinders to give our meal its regulation picnic flavor. 
The scenes of the early part of our journey were 
repeated at the different stations, all the people 
being anxious to catch a glimpse of ^' La Comision 
Civil." There were always two or three bands in 
attendance, no village being too small, apparently, 
to support one. These people seem to be natural 

[151] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

musicians. They are also natural orators — or at 
least have the gift of words. As we neared Dagu- 
pan we passed through large nipa swamps and im- 
mense groves of cocoanut palms — the latter filling 
one's ideal of the beautiful in tropical vegetation. 

On reaching Dagupan we found things somewhat 
mixed, no word having been received as to the size 
of our party. We were finally distributed, the whole 
thing reminding me of a church convention In the 
States where the visiting preachers are parceled out 
among the members of the congregation. It fell to 
my lot, in company with Commissioner Moses, to 
be entertained by Captain Winn, a former military 
Instructor in the University of California. It was 
good to get back to simple army fare after our 
recent orgy. 

Our first afternoon and evening were spent 
quietly, most of us being thankful for It. The con- 
vention met next morning in the vllUage theater, the 
thirty-one towns of the province being represented 
by three hundred and fifty delegates ; these, with the 
general public, soon made the " standing-room " 
sign necessary. As the roll was called each delega- 
tion came forward and passed in review before the 
stage. The morning was given over to this and to 
an explanation of the provincial law by Judge Taft, 
the afternoon being devoted to a public discussion 
of the special act. The people were somewhat slow 
to respond, but by judicious questioning they finally 
got started, and then the trouble was to stop them. 

Our audience comprised most of the educated and 

[152] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

influential Filipinos of the province. As the masses 
receive their ideas through these few, this face-to- 
face presentation of facts to their leaders virtually 
meant talking to all the people. That the Commis- 
sion had sufficient interest in their welfare to make 
a special visit to the province established a bond of 
union and sympathy such as nothing else could have 
done. 

That evening we were banqueted at the house of 
one Villareal, the dinner being given by the Federal 
Party of Dagupan. The spread was like unto others 
described, being superabundant. There were the 
usual speeches, without which a dinner here would 
be considered altogether tame and commonplace. 
Judge Taft, in referring to the Federal Party, char- 
acterized all those who, for personal reasons or 
otherwise, sought to hinder its work as enemies to 
the best interests of their country. Some of this 
was meant for the local military, who, while quite 
courteous, do not seem to enjoy the object of our 
visit among them. The establishment of civil gov- 
ernment ends their absolute sway, and they naturally 
dislike to give up the power which is theirs. It comes 
hard to be relegated from monarchs to mere peace 
officers. One captain, in describing his administra- 
tion of an adjoining town, said that he was king. 
King with a big " K," and that when the natives did 
not respond promptly to his demands he stuck them 
in the guardhouse. This no doubt proved effect- 
ive, but it hardly works for benevolent assimilation. 
Commissioner Wright made quite a long speech and 

[153] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

a good one. He is naturally witty and can drive 
home plain truths with a smiling face. He told the 
people exactly how we happened to come to the 
islands, and explained that our remaining here after- 
wards was something we could not in justice have 
avoided, even had we wished. He said it was not 
necessary for us to oppress them, and that we had 
no idea whatever of doing so ; that our purpose was 
to help them, and we could do this only as they 
cooperated with us. Professor Moses followed and 
pointed out wherein the methods we were pursuing 
differed from those followed by Spain, which coun- 
try, amid all the blessings which time had showered 
upon her, had never enjoyed good government. 

Next morning the special act was passed, and 
Perfecto Sison of Lingayen named provincial gov- 
ernor. Judge Taft then called for speeches from 
Chief Justice Arellano, Dr. Tavera, and General 
Flores, who roused the crowd to a dramatic finish. 
I think Arellano's talk one of the best I have ever 
heard. He is without doubt the greatest Filipino 
in the islands today, though one of the most modest. 
He has always stood for peace, and yet is univer- 
sally liked by these people. When he rose to speak 
the audience rose involuntarily. He talked to them 
sincerely and earnestly as a father would talk to his 
children. He told them he was not given to appear- 
ing in public; that for twelve years he had lived in 
practical retirement, and that if he now came forth 
it was because he felt the crisis to be a vital one to 
his people. He said he was growing old and might 

[154] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

not live to see the great future which spread before 
his country, but he spoke for them and for their 
sons who would live to see it. A deep note of con- 
viction rang through every word, and the effect upon 
his emotional audience was striking. It was a great 
speech and one which it is good to have heard. 

The Commission decided to remain in Dagupan 
until Monday, giving us a day and a half for diver- 
sion. In the afternoon I visited the public schools, 
in charge of Max McCullough, a California boy 
whom I knew. That day he was teaching in the 
girls' school, a nipa structure with bamboo floors 
and bamboo seats, entirely too small to seat the chil- 
dren; they were sitting around on the floor and fill- 
ing every available nook. He was drilling them in 
relays, using a pictured English chart. He remarked 
that after going over that chart fifty times a day, and 
following it up for months, the subject-matter 
became strangely familiar. 

On Sunday the entire party drove to Lingayen, 
the provincial capital, eight miles distant. The road 
seemed a continuous street, being lined throughout 
by little nipas, the windows of which framed many 
striking pictures. We made a halt at Binmaley, 
midway to Lingayen, to see their old church, one 
of the finest in the islands. We were met by the 
priest and leading citizens and escorted up to the 
altar to organ music. The priest here was more 
successful than most, for he succeeded in saving the 
treasures of his church from Americans and insur- 
rectos alike. After visiting the church we went 

[155] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

through the convento, or priest's residence, where 
refreshments were served. 

On reaching Lingayen a reception was tendered 
in the municipal building, with the usual accompani- 
ment of speeches and eatables. We took luncheon 
with Major Brush, which compelled us to forego 
the spread prepared by the town people. We under- 
stood when too late that quite elaborate prepara- 
tions had been made to entertain us. After luncheon 
LeRoy and I climbed the tower of their old church, 
which commands a magnificent view. The shim- 
mering bay of Lingayen, deep blue under that south- 
ern sky, lay to the west of us, while on every side 
stretched reach on reach of nipa, palm, and cocoa- 
nut groves, through which the thread-like Agno 
wound down to the sea. Below us lay the town, 
with its queer nipa houses and wealth of life. 

Later our party visited the provincial prison, 
where we saw the man and woman who have been 
personating the Christ and the Virgin Mary. They 
were ordinary looking creatures, but had exerted 
wonderful power over certain of the superstitious 
natives. We also saw Sefior Valles, Aguinaldo's 
"Director of Communications," who was captured 
last week. He appeared to be a shrewd man. Re- 
turning to Dagupan we stopped at the Binmaley cock- 
pit, where practically the entire town was assembled. 

The next morning at 8 :30, to the music of a mili- 
tary and two native bands, we started south for 
Tarlac, our next stop. Here we were met by the 
military and raost of the populace. Owing to infor- 

[156] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

mation received at Dagupan, the Commission had 
decided not to organize Tarlac at this time, the plan 
being simply to make a short stop and tell the people 
we would call again when they had improved a bit 
in their behavior. The town lies about a mile from 
the railroad, and we made the ride in a varied assort- 
ment of vehicles and in a bewildering cloud of dust. 
The people had gathered from all parts to meet us, 
the town being as elaborately decorated as any we 
had visited. When the Commission learned that 
delegates had gathered from most of the towns and 
were without notice that their province was not to 
be organized, it was decided to go through with it 
that afternoon rather than disappoint them. Ac- 
cordingly, between 2 130 and 5 :30 the provincial 
bill was explained, discussion had, amendments 
offered, the bill passed, and officials appointed. 
Owing to the somewhat uncertain temper of the 
people, and to various factions among them, an 
American governor was appointed, who will hold 
office until an election is held in February. One inci- 
dent of the afternoon was rather pathetic. On the 
roll call one of the towns failed to respond and was 
marked absent. Later we learned the delegates had 
come and were below stairs, but, being barefooted, 
were ashamed to come into the presence of the 
Commission. After the session a band concert was 
given in the village plaza, and later a banquet 
was served by the Federal Party at the house of 
the town padre. There were the usual number of 
courses and the same array of people. We had but 

[157] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

two speeches, one by Judge Taft and one by Chief 
Justice Arellano. The people were somewhat less 
demonstrative than elsewhere; possibly they were 
disappointed over the failure of the Commission to 
appoint a native governor. 

We left Tarlac at six the next morning, reaching 
Manila at noon. Most of the party were able to 
answer "Present" at the finish, there being but two 
or three whose digestive machinery had failed to 
respond to the strain put upon it. It is hard to 
estimate the good the trip will bring in its train. It 
brought home to the people as nothing else could 
just what is proposed to be done for them. They 
are tired of military rule, and relief from it is the 
reward offered when they prove themselves worthy. 



Manila, March s, iQOi. 
Two more provinces have been organized — Bula- 
can and Bataan. The trip to Bulacan differed only 
in detail from our previous one. This time the 
ladies accompanied us, i. e., Mrs. Taft, Mrs. 
Worcester, Miss Herron, Mrs. Fergusson, Mrs. 
LeRoy, Miss Briggs, and the Misses Ide. Bulacan 
is within an hour's ride of Manila by train, the town 
being two and a half miles from the railroad. There 
was the same outpouring of natives to witness our 
advent and the same cordial reception. While not 
as gorgeously decorated as some of the other towns, 
they had two or three indefatigable bands whose 
lung power was a wonder. 

[158] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

The convention was set for 2 p. M., being held 
in a small chapel, the large town church being used 
as barracks by our soldiers. Most of the important 
buildings in the town were destroyed during the 
insurrections against Spain and our authority, and 
we saw little but ruins. The chapel where we met 
was small and the ventilation poor. It was crowded 
to suffocation and we gasped and perspired in the 
sweltering, overcharged atmosphere. Following an 
exposition of the provincial act by Judge Taft, con- 
siderable interest was roused over a movement to 
remove the capital from Bulacan to Malolos, which 
is on the railroad. The discussion waxed warm and 
it was finally suggested by the Commission that the 
question be left to a vote of the towns — the vote to 
be taken next morning. One of the speakers made 
the somewhat novel proposition that an engineer 
survey the province and find Its central spot, and 
that the capital be located there. Another speaker 
branched off on the evils of gambling, which, he said, 
was the curse of Bulacan. He asked that the gov- 
ernor be empowered to punish gambling as an exec- 
utive function. He was told that in countries where 
civil liberty prevails punishment can only be had 
through the courts, but that the Commission would 
try and appoint officials In sympathy with his ideals. 

A banquet was given in the evening by the Fed- 
eral Party in the Convento building. There were 
speeches by Judge Taft, General Grant, and Seiiores 
Calderon and Flores. After the dinner a baile was 
held upstairs. 

[159] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

The meeting next morning was one of the most 
Interesting yet held. The question of the capital 
was submitted to vote, possibly the first time In the 
history of the Islands where the people were per- 
mitted to settle a thing of that kind themselves. 
Malolos won by a majority of three. Judge Taft 
told the people It was our purpose to let them have 
their way in all things so long as It was consistent 
with public order and the rights of Individuals, citing 
the matter of the capital as an example. It appealed 
to them, and after Calderon had stirred them with 
a speech In Tagalog, and Dr. Tavera had flattered 
them, had appealed to the memory of their great 
men, and had led and forced them along with him 
on the current of his wit and eloquence, the occasion 
developed Into a regular love feast. One speaker 
went so far as to ask that the land tax be applied at 
once, and not postponed for a year, as contem- 
plated. He said Bulacan was the first to go to war 
and the last to come in; that it took a man of Bula- 
can a long time to get an Idea Into his head, but, once 
in, it stuck. They were now for peace and American 
sovereignty. For the time, at least, I believe them 
sincere. 

Sefior Serapio was appointed provincial governor. 
The people are split Into factions and Serapio was 
persona non grata to many of them. He has been 
an active American sympathizer from the beginning, 
and was Instrumental in causing the capture of many 
Insurrectos. His life has been marked many times, 
and though the people now profess peace, they can- 

[ i6o] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

not overlook the past. We left for the train at 2 :30. 
A heavy rain set in and we were a dripping, bedrag- 
gled lot when we reached the station. 

The next day was spent in Manila, and the day 
following we started for Bataan, which lies just 
across the bay from Manila. The trip was made 
by launch, the ladies again accompanying us. Before 
starting we had heard something of the reception 
awaiting us, it being reported that over twenty thou- 
sand flags had been secured to decorate their water 
craft and buildings. What we imagined — what we 
possibly could have imagined — was dwarfed by the 
reality, however. While yet a considerable distance 
from shore, fifteen or twenty large bancas bore down 
upon us, each manned by from twenty to thirty row- 
ers and filled with people. The rowers were naked 
to the waist, and as their bronze bodies swayed back- 
ward and forward with each broad sweep of the oars, 
it made a picture of savage grandeur that thrilled 
one. Round and round they went, rising in their 
seats at intervals to utter strange and unknown cries. 
All the bancas were decorated with flags and bunt- 
ing, a number of them having bands of music aboard. 
One barge, larger than the rest, had a large pagoda 
top and reminded one dimly of those triumphal 
floats in which Egypt's queen was wont to make her 
pilgrimages on the Nile. This was brought along- 
side the launch and boarded by our party. There 
were a number of women aboard with musical in- 
struments, who played and sang improvised songs of 
>velcome. We were taken in tow by two other 

[161] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

barges, which spread their sails and sped on, fol- 
lowed by the entire fleet. As these scattered over 
the water they looked, with their square, colored 
sails, like a flock of great birds. 

As we neared the landing for Balanga, the cap- 
ital, another fleet appeared, adding to the excite- 
ment. The coast is quite low here and the boats 
grounded some distance out, our landing being made 
in army ambulances. About five hundred school 
children had a banner reading, "Welcome to the 
Civil Commission. Give us schools and English 
teachers and we will do the rest." We all agreed 
that our reception on sea and land had been the 
most spectacular of our lives. We took lunch at 
military headquarters, and an informal reception 
was held later in the provincial building. 

At 3 130 a public session was held of the usual 
character. Here, however, as the mass of those 
present spoke only Tagalog, the speeches were Inter- 
preted into that language by Senor Calderon. The 
banquet that evening was one of the largest we have 
attended, there being a greater representation of 
women present than usual. A few speeches were 
made, after which we adjourned to the town hall, 
where a baile was In progress. It was a lively scene, 
everyone seeming to enter into the spirit of the occa- 
sion. Mr. LeRoy and I had been assigned to a 
Filipino family, where we showed up shortly after 
midnight. One of the native bands was also quar- 
tered there. Its members, together with the family, 
being stretched out on the floor. We had to pass 

[162] 




Native Boats Welcoming Commission, Bataan 







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Native Prao, Off Bacolod, Negros 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

over their bodies to reach our room. Perhaps some 
people, reading the States papers, would have con- 
sidered it reckless for two unarmed Americans to 
sleep alone under such circumstances. We slept 
well, however, despite the hard beds and harder 
pillows. These native pillows seem stuffed with 
sawdust or something equally hard. Our breakfast 
was served in the room next morning, the band 
playing meanwhile in the adjoining room. 

The closing session was held this morning, and 
we had another splendid talk by Chief Justice Arel- 
lano, who is a native of the province. Another 
tiffin — really a dinner — was eaten, with more 
speeches. We were then escorted to the bay shore 
by most of the populace and by the military, and 
then to our launch and onward by the fleet of bancas. 

Next week we are scheduled to start on our trip 
to the southern islands, which will be made in the 
transport Sumner and will occupy about two months. 
In the meantime the Commission is in almost contin- 
uous session, trying to clear up a mass of accumu- 
lated matters. My dual position of private secre- 
tary and recorder has simply swamped me with 
work, and it is a scramble to keep from being 
smothered. 

Word has come of the passage by Congress of 
the so-called "Spooner Bill," relating to Philippine 
affairs, and it is a great disappointment. While it 
authorizes the President to establish temporary civil 
government in the islands, it prohibits absolutely the 
sale, lease, or other disposition of public lands or 

[163] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

timber, or the granting of any mining rights. It 
authorizes the granting of franchises, but renders 
the grant nugatory by providing that all such fran- 
chises shall terminate within one year after the 
establishment of civil government. The law effec- 
tually ties the hands of the Commission so far as 
developing the resources of the islands is concerned, 
without which development no general prosperity 
can be expected. The whole thing illustrates how 
foolish our representatives can be when dealing with 
something which does not affect their chances of 
reelection, and concerning which they have no knowl- 
edge, nor the ambition to acquire it. No action 
whatever was taken to relieve us of our unfortunate 
currency muddle. The sensible thing would be for 
Congress to follow the advice and suggestion of 
those on the ground, commissioned to study the situ- 
ation, but our Solons evidently argue that to do this 
would be to admit that their intuitive judgment is 
not better than the mature study and reflection of 
others. 



[164] 



X 

THE SOUTHERN TRIP 

U. S. Transport Sumner, 

March 14, igoi. 
^~\ UR long-planned " Southern Trip " is now a 
^^ reality, and it promises to dwarf all that has 
preceded. Although out but a few days, incident 
has followed incident with a rush that leaves us 
somewhat bewildered as we think of all that yet 
remains to be unraveled. It has come to us that 
we are participating in an extraordinary journey, the 
events of which will not only be unique to our little 
party, but will be written large in the future annals 
of these islands. 

The expedition is being made in the U. S. trans- 
port Sumner, placed at the disposal of the Commis- 
sion for the occasion. While not as large as the 
Hancock, it is a fine ship, complete in every detail. 
We have electric fans, an ice plant, Chinese cabin 
and table boys, and other Important accessories for 
comfort in the tropics. Naturally, there were many 
who were willing to forsake their happy homes to 
join us. For this reason the line was drawn fast 
and invitations limited to those associated in some 
way with the Commission and its work. The roster 

[165] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

of the privileged includes most of the old Hancock 
crowd, with a sprinkling of newspaper correspond- 
ents and members of the Partido Federal. The 
assortment is sufficiently variegated to insure that 
no one need suffer from ennui. 

We left Manila on Sunday last, the center of a 
vociferous crowd and innumerable bands. When 
the "shouting and the tumult" died, and our launch 
steamed slowly down the Pasig, you could almost 
hear the sigh of relief that went up from the Com- 
mission and staff. The past few weeks have been 
pretty strenuous, and we were tired enough to grasp 
eagerly at the prospect of change and rest offered 
by our proposed cruise. It is in truth a trip whose 
contemplation should make anyone happy. To voy- 
age for two months in a splendid boat amid beautiful 
tropical islands; to visit them all, and know that in 
the more than twenty-five scheduled stopping-places 
a reception awaited from a people unrivaled in hos- 
pitality; to share this experience with tried compan- 
ions, grown intimate through months of work and 
pleasant association, and to realize further that we 
are pioneers in a movement pointing our country 
along new and momentous paths of destiny and 
power — all this gave cause to feel that fortune had 
indeed been kind in counting us among those called 
for such a journey and such a work. Not only are 
we to replace military by civil rule throughout a 
great Archipelago, but we are commissioned as well 
to plant in virgin soil those principles of government 
which lead to the progress and enlightenment of 

[i66] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

races. Not that the Filipinos appreciate all this as 
yet, or see in the Commission instruments of fate 
shaping their future destiny; all they see is a body 
of men vested with power to relieve them of the 
rigors of military rule, and give substance to their 
aspirations for local government. They rejoice 
accordingly, and the Commissioners are everywhere 
hailed as the Messiahs of peace and prosperity. 

The first province on our repertoire was Tayabas, 
the convention being billed for Lucena. Our jour- 
ney thither led us down the quiet reaches of the 
Straits of Mindoro, skirting the shores of Luzon. 
We anchored late in the afternoon in front of the 
peak of Banahao, which sweeps directly from the 
sea to an elevation of over seven thousand feet. 
With a bank of clouds wreathing its summit, it tow- 
ered the commanding monarch of a beautiful coun- 
tryside. We did not land until morning, when two 
of the ship's cutters were taken in tow by our little 
launch and headed up a small river to the Lucena 
landing. Immense cocoanut groves stretched as far 
as eye could see, and a wilderness of nipa palm and 
jungle growth ran riot to the water's edge. A huge 
crocodile basking upon a heap of debris by the river 
side gave a finishing touch to the picture and com- 
pleted our enthusiasm. 

We drove Into Lucena to the music of various 
energetic bands, the clamor of bells, and the 
"Vivas" of the entire population. The Commission 
repaired at once to the school building, where a 
public session was held and the provincial act ex- 

[167] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

plained by Judge Taft. Luncheon was served at 
the home of the Alcalde. This repast — a fore- 
runner of many such in store — consisted of innu- 
merable meat courses, with a paralyzing assortment 
of wines, dulces, fruits, etc. How we were expected 
to transact business in a sun-stricken audience hall 
after eating that meal remains a question. Before 
the afternoon session some of us visited the town 
church, where we happened on a christening cere- 
mony. 

Provincial organization was completed at the 
afternoon session, keen interest being developed 
over the question whether the capital should be 
removed from Tayabas to Lucena. It was finally 
submitted to a vote, Lucena winning by a small mar- 
gin. The delegates took an active and intelligent 
part In the discussion, and were very much alive to 
the problems presented. 

The original arrangement was to remain in 
Lucena over-night, drive to Tayabas next morning, 
and return aboard ship the same evening. When 
this plan was announced the delegation from Taya- 
bas was ready to weep. They said their people had 
arranged an elaborate banquet and ball for the fol- 
lowing night, and there would be woe and bitter 
disappointment should we fail them. Their tearful 
entreaties prevailed, and we returned to the boat to 
fortify ourselves for what we knew was coming 
to us. 

The following morning dawned with an overcast 
sky and occasional burst of rain. The prospect of 
[i68] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

a ride through a choppy sea, to be followed by nine 
miles in an ambulance over bumpy roads, did not 
appeal to some of the party. Only five ladies 
responded to the call, i. e., Mrs. Taft, Miss Herron, 
Miss Briggs, Mrs. LeRoy, and Miss Bourns. We 
were a goodly company, nevertheless, and the fine 
drizzle that beat upon us may have dampened our 
clothes, but not our ardor. The drive to Tayabas, 
though not a rest physically, was a treat in ever)^ 
other respect. There were four ambulances, each 
drawn by a four-mule team, while as escort we had 
a troop of American soldiers, some native police, 
and a concourse of the citizens of Tayabas. This 
guard was more a matter of honor than protectlonj 
as the province Is thoroughly pacified. The road 
wound its way for the entire distance through an 
immense cocoanut grove. Looking backward or for- 
ward, you saw a vista of these beautiful trees with 
their chiseled stems and tufted tops, and from every 
elevation they spread a sea of waving plumes to the 
horizon. Tayabas is noted for Its cocoanut Indus- 
try, the number of trees being estimated at over ten 
million. Each tree is said to yield a net profit of over 
a peso per year. On reaching Tayabas we were taken 
direct to the church and convento, the latter having 
been prepared for our accommodation. During the 
insurrrectlon against Spain the garrison from ad- 
joining towns made their last stand In this church, 
where they were besieged for fifty-six days before 
surrendering. The walls are pitted with bullet 
marks, as are most of the houses In the town. 

[169] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Our coming was heraldea with the usual bands 
and outpouring of people, the latter crowding after 
us into the convento until it was jammed. In the 
center of the hall stood a large table stocked with 
all sorts of drinkables and the ever-present cigars 
and cigarettes. The speech of welcome delivered us 
remains an unforgettable one. Scarcely had we 
assembled when a Filipino dashed into a clear spot 
near the Commission and in a shrill voice which 
broke on the high notes, and with wildly gesticulat- 
ing arms, told his tale of joy at our coming. The 
matter of his speech was passable, but his manner of 
delivery was something appalling. When he came 
to his ^' Vivas" he started at the top of his voice and 
finished with a doleful squeak. It was a time to 
laugh, and our desire so to do struggled hard with 
our obligation to preserve a respectful countenance. 
Later we learned the speaker was a bit loco, and his 
appearance formed no part of the reception pro- 
gram. Judge Taft started to respond, but before 
he was well under way our crazy friend cried, " Viva 
la Comision!" and the crowd, thinking the speech 
was ended, closed in and choked off further oratory. 
Meantime the ladies were being offered copious 
draughts of whiskey. It being assumed that Amer- 
icans drink liquor as other people do water. 

We took tiffin at the home of the Vice-President, 
our long drive enabling us to do better justice to it 
than usual. Quite a number of women were present, 
though the role they play at these functions Is a 
minor one. They usually sit in a row on one side 

[170] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

of the room, segregated from the men, and seldom 
utter a word unless addressed. With their flowered 
camisas and panuelos and their beaver-tailed bro- 
caded skirts spread carefully before them, they seem 
a collection of lay figures set up to delight the eye. 
In the evening the promised baile and banquet 
took place, and to describe them would be simply 
to expand on the admirable qualities of the Filipino 
as host. There was the usual crowd of men in offi- 
cial black, bowing and smiling, with a background 
of dainty femininity bedecked in jewels and fine rai- 
ment. It was a scene full of color, with no hint of 
that grim figure, scarcely out of sight, which had so 
lately traced his course In blood and flame across 
the lives of the people. The situation seemed a bit 
unreal. It was hard to understand why the passion- 
ate hatreds of war had left no apparent bitterness 
in their wake. As the music rose and fell, and white 
and brown mingled freely together in the dance, I 
talked with one of their old men and sought to 
fathom the riddle. What he told me explained 
much, and I saw where the answer lay. I had been 
trying, as so many others are doing, to judge the 
state of feeling of these people by Anglo-Saxon tra- 
ditions, rather than taking their own history as a 
standard. My informant spoke of their life under 
the Spaniards, when they were treated as inferior 
beings and given no participation in public affairs; 
of their exploitation by a rapacious clergy, and how 
their aspirations for learning and advancement were 
frowned upon or ruthlessly suppressed as a menace 

[171] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

to the state ; of the final uprising against Intolerable 
abuses, and the cruel reprisals Inflicted upon them 
when they fell Into the enemy's hands. He referred 
to the coming of the Americans, and the unfortunate 
Insurrection waged against us at the behest of ambi- 
tious leaders who misrepresented our character and 
purposes; of their discovery later that our soldiers 
and officers were not ogres, but men who treated 
them with cordiality and were willing to be friends 
if given the opportunity; that almost before the 
smoke of battle had cleared schools were started 
for their children and soldiers detailed to teach 
them; that municipalities were organized, and the 
people given a voice In the election of their officers; 
that no attempt was made to coerce them in religion 
or religious matters; that a provincial government 
had just been organized wherein the Filipinos would 
elect their own government; that the Commission 
had honored them by a visit, and had given personal 
assurances not only that we held no animosity toward 
them, but would help them to realize every legiti- 
mate aspiration. All this was in such contrast to 
what would have been meted them under the former 
regime that their gratitude was sincere, and they 
desired their welcome to assure us of the fact. Just 
now we are Moses leading them Into a promised 
land. Let us hope as time passes they will not forget 
their bricks without straw and begin to cry for their 
Imaginary flesh pots again. 

That night we all lodged In the convento, the 
women occupying one large room and the men an- 

[172] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

other. There were thirteen beds in our ward, con- 
tributed by various leading citizens of the town. I 
rested well, though my pillow seemed stuffed with 
bricks, and some of my companions had the unfor- 
tunate habit of audible sleep. 

Before seven next day we were off for Lucena 
and the sea, our return drive through the fresh, 
rain-scented morning proving delicious. The next 
point on our itinerary was Boac, Island of Marin- 
duque, three hours to the southward. During Span- 
ish rule Marinduque was a sub-province of Mindoro, 
but as most of its trade is with Tayabas, the Com- 
mission wished to discuss with its people the project 
of annexation to the latter province. 

We anchored quite near shore, which, with Its 
coral beach, its fringe of palms, and Its up-springing, 
verdure-clad hills, realized our Ideal of tropical lux- 
urlousness and beauty. Shortly after three o'clock 
the men folks went ashore and made the drive to 
Boac, two and a half miles Inland. Our old friend, 
the army ambulance, was lacking there. Its place 
being taken by native carromatas. These vehicles 
were built for people of smaller girth than most of 
our party, and furnished not only a tight squeeze, 
but had a tendency to tip over backward and swing 
the little ponies off their feet. Despite this they 
shot off as if tearing to a fire, their haste being as 
startling as unusual. 

We drove to military Headquarters, located In an 
old church or citadel overlooking the city and river. 
The place Is really a fort enclosing the church, and 

[173] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

was built some two centuries ago as a protection 
against Moro pirates. The view from the tower 
commanded a panorama of hills and glens and low- 
lying clouds reminding much of the Scottish high- 
lands. After a visit with the officers, and announce- 
ment of a meeting for the morrow, we started for 
the boat. It rained, and the heavy roads exhausted 
the little ponies, many of whom finally refused to 
go at all except by jerks, first one being in the lead 
and then another, giving rise to alternate jeers and 
cheers. Mr. Fergusson, our Secretary, who weighs 
two hundred and sixty pounds, had quite a handicap. 
He stated later that no power on earth — not even a 
squad of soldiers — could compel him to get into 
one of those carts again. In the evening the military 
band from the post treated us to a serenade and 
the hours sped joyfully. 



March 15, igoi. 
At the session this morning strong opposition 
developed to annexation with Tayabas or any other 
place, the people insisting upon a district all their 
own. This attitude is dictated by local pride, with a 
sublime ignorance of the expense and responsibility 
involved. About ten o'clock the ladies from the 
Sumner appeared on the scene, being the first Amer- 
ican women to set foot on Marinduque. Needless 
to say, they created something of a sensation. The 
children of the town swarmed after them in droves, 
and we could hear the tumult from afar. There is 

[174] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

no question but that the presence of the ladies is 
assisting the Commission materially in its work. 
They not only interest the populace, and help put 
life into social functions, but they furnish an evi- 
dence of our confidence in the good faith of the 
people. Another feature which undoubtedly lends 
force to our mission, and aids greatly in impressing 
the public, is the size and avoirdupois of the Com- 
missioners. The aggregate weight of the five Com- 
missioners and their Secretary is thirteen hundred 
and sixty-two pounds, or an average of two hundred 
and twenty-seven pounds per. When all are lined 
up behind a table they come near filling the space 
allotted them, not only in fact but in the imagination 
of the people. To a race small of stature, with a 
childlike reverence for those in power, the dominat- 
ing influence of this mere physical bigness is an 
important item. 

The sentiment for a separate organization was 
so strong that the Commission finally agreed to it, 
with the proviso that when we returned from the 
south the island be entirely pacified. Marinduque, 
though small, has been quite actively insurgent. It 
was here that Captain Shields and some thirty men 
were taken prisoners last fall and carried into the 
hills. A fight occurred two weeks ago, when four 
soldiers were wounded, and an American was shot 
on the road between Boac and the beach a few days 
since. About two hundred and fifty insurgents are 
still in the hills, although it is evident most of the 
people honestly desire peace. 

[175] 
1h 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

At the close of the meeting Chief Justice Arellano 
gave a short talk, the memory of which is of the 
sort that lives. Arellano is small of build, with 
nothing remarkable in his appearance, but his words 
today seemed touched with living fire. The con- 
vincing earnestness of his delivery and the absolute 
sureness with which he put into a few pregnant 
sentences his message to the people were marvelous. 
He painted their struggles and aspirations, their 
sufferings and sorrows, and then pointed out the 
futility of all these longings without a teacher to 
guide them — someone to direct them along the 
path for which their feet were all untried; this 
teacher was the great American people, a nation 
whose foundations were laid deep in the liberty of 
the individual and the preservation of human rights. 
He referred to the Commission, and called his audi- 
ence to witness that its members came among them, 
not as lords and masters, but as men willing and 
anxious to learn the will of the people and follow it; 
today, before their very eyes, they had received an 
evidence of this purpose to respect their wishes, when 
the question of local government was submitted to 
them. When had this ever been done before ? When 
could they ever hope for it except under the protec- 
tion of a nation strong enough and great enough to 
be just and generous? He told them, as they had 
faith In him (and there is no Filipino more loved 
and honored), that he guaranteed all these blessings, 
and urged them to prove worthy of the trust. 

We took tiffin with the people, our bill of fare 

[176] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

being limited to local products, as the ports of the 
Island have been closed for over six months. Truth 
to tell, our main interest in these affairs now centers 
largely on the crowd. Life is too sweet to hazard 
it too recklessly on the great array of eatables 
usually pressed upon us. Miss Briggs and I drove 
back to the beach in one of their little carromatas, 
and waved our hands and glued our faces into a per- 
petual smile for the benefit of our little brown 
brothers along the road. 



March i6, igoi. 

After a run of three hours, we dropped anchor 
this morning in the beautiful little harbor of Rom- 
blon. The town lies between two jutting headlands, 
with high hills rising behind it. The inhabitants are 
Visayans, who are reputed a milder race than the 
Tagalogs. As a number of the delegates did not 
speak Spanish, Judge Taft's remarks were inter- 
preted into Visayan. The people appeared a bit 
more reticent here than elsewhere, due perhaps to 
the fact that few of them are wealthy, a condition 
which alone seems to justify pretensions of any kind 
in the Philippines. They felt very badly at not being 
able to tender us a great spread. We were not sorry 
and returned to the boat for dinner. 

In the meantime a friend and I mounted to an old 
fort above the town, used In former days to repel 
Moro pirates. It is now weather-beaten and crum- 
bling, its gray sides and uneven walls showing 

[177] 



THE ODYSSEY OF ^ 

scarred and broken beneath its mantle of tropical 
green. The sun was just setting over one of the 
tiny islands, lighting up the water with a purple 
glow; below us nestled the little village, its narrow 
streets appearing threadlike amid the sea of nipa; 
the old church, with its ruined bell tower, dominated 
the scene, and in the mellow glow of evening seemed 
to shed rest and benediction upon all the place ; far 
up the mountain paths we could see natives in bright- 
hued costumes winding along in single file until lost 
in the twilight shadows; out in the bay rode the 
Sumner, and along the shore, lying deep in the 
gathering dusk, were little coasting vessels, their 
masts tipped with light ; on the hills the tall cocoanut 
palms stood out against the sky like sentinels guard- 
ing the valley. It was good just to live and feel 
the inspiration of it all. 

That evening a baile was given at the home of 
Seiior Francisco Sanz, a wealthy Mestizo. One of 
the most interesting features was a native dance, 
following which came refreshments, principally 
sweets, of which there was a wondrous variety. 



March ly, igoi. 
We steamed into Palanoc, Island of Masbate, at 
noon today after an eight hours' run. Later the 
Commission and a small party went ashore and met 
the captain of the garrison and some of the promi- 
nent citizens. Masbate has had a pretty hard row 
to hoe. Its people are Visayans, whose pacific na- 

[178] 




h 




o 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

ture has made them a prey to ladrones and pirates 
from adjoining islands. During the insurrection 
their towns were burned to the ground, and recently 
their chief industry, cattle raising, has been destroyed 
by rinderpest, a disease which has swept through the 
herds of the island, leaving scarce a living beast. 
One of the surest signs of their poverty was the 
absence of music, for poor indeed is a Filipino vil- 
lage that does not sport a band. After a short recep- 
tion, and having arranged for a meeting in the morn- 
ing, we returned to the ship. 



March i8, igoi. 
The Province of Masbate includes not only the 
island of that name but various neighboring islands, 
all but two of whose fifteen towns were represented 
at the session. Judge Taft made the usual explana- 
tion of the provincial law and of the special act 
applying it to the province. His talk this morning 
impressed me as a master one. It was in detail, yet 
succinct and clear, fitted to the comprehension of the 
people. The different presidents were invited to 
express their views concerning salaries, etc., and to 
describe conditions In their respective towns. The 
situation revealed was one to excite pity. There 
seems to be no regular trade or Industry among them. 
They plant a few sweet potatoes, some corn, a little 
hemp and cocoa, cut firewood and timber from the 
public forests, and do some fishing. Since the loss 
of their cattle they have nothing for export. The 

[179] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

dally wage of laborers is twenty-five cents Mexican, 
with ten cents for food. 

In appointing provincial officers the duties of gov- 
ernor and secretary were combined, and the Fiscal 
of Romblon assigned to Masbate, greatly reducing 
expenses. Bonifacio Serrano was appointed Gov- 
ernor, and a Corporal of the Second Infantry, Super- 
visor. It was dark before the meeting closed and the 
oath of office administered to the appointees. This 
was done by Chief Justice Arellano to the feeble 
flicker of kerosene lamps, and presented a striking 
spectacle. Back in the shadows stood the delegates, 
the Commission looming gigantic in the foreground. 
The Corporal was coatless, and as he stood, tall and 
lank, and with uplifted hand swore to support ever 
the flag of his country, and perform well and faith- 
fully the duties devolving upon him, he typified the 
democracy of our nation and the spirit of a race 
which has marked the world with its frontiers. 

Later there was a dance at headquarters, which 
most of our party attended. The seiioritas wore 
beautiful costumes and were more attractive than 
the average of these people; they also danced the 
two-step, something quite new in the islands. We 
have discovered that no diplomacy need be used in 
paying compliments to these little ladies. To tell 
them they are beautiful, or that your heart is torn 
asunder at the thought of parting, creates no ap- 
parent distrust of your sincerity. They respond 
with a smile, and a mil gracias senor, which inspires 
to further courtesy. 

[i8o] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

March ig, igoi. 
Today was passed at sea. We left Masbate at 
midnight and are due in Iloilo early tomorrow. We 
have been within sight of land all day, and this 
morning nearly ran aground. The Spanish chart 
showed twenty fathoms of water, but when the ship 
stopped we were touching bottom. It is a joy to 
have a day of quiet. While our trip thus far has 
afforded plenty of "change," it has contained mighty 
little " rest." In our first week we have organized 
three provinces, besides meeting in public session 
the people of Marinduque. 



March 20, igoi. 
Iloild, the second city of the islands, does not pre- 
sent an imposing appearance. It lies almost level 
with the Panay coast, the mountains being too dis- 
tant to relieve the general flatness. Most of the 
town was burned by the insurgents upon the coming 
of American troops, and is but partially rebuilt. The 
people are Visayans, and such little fighting as oc- 
curred in the island was fomented by Tagalogs from 
Luzon. We anchored before eight, and received an 
early visit from the major portion of the " Partido 
Federel." They were attired in full black, one of 
the visitors being in evening dress with white gloves 
and opera hat. The collection of " derbys " helped 
to solve the problem of what becomes of our anti- 
quated styles. General Hughes and staff also came 
aboard, and quite a levee was held. We landed at 

[181] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

ten-thirty and found the whole population, including 
numerous bands, at the wharf to greet us. The 
party scattered until noon, when we met at the home 
of Senor de la Rama for tiffin. A friend and I put 
in the interim driving about in one of their primitive 
conveyances, and doubtless proved a puzzle to our 
cochero, who could not fathom why anyone in his 
senses should want to drive hither and thither with- 
out an objective point. 

It is not proposed to establish a government here 
until our return in April. A meeting was held, how- 
ever, and speeches made by Judge Taft, Chief Jus- 
tice Arellano, Dr. Tavera, Commissioner Worces- 
ter, Judge Llorente, General Flores, and Senor 
Villanueva, of Iloilo. I do not recall a series of 
talks on our entire trip which more fully set out the 
plans and purposes of the Commission, or indicated 
a clearer grasp by the people of the situation. Judge 
Taft presided with that cordial, good-natured ex- 
pression which is one of his greatest charms, and 
which cannot but inspire confidence and good-will. In 
listening to the speakers, and watching the eager, 
intelligent attitude of the audience, I wished those of 
our countrymen who are decrying and hindering this 
work could have been present. They might then 
understand that we are not only offering these peo- 
ple complete local autonomy, but are guaranteeing 
them by our presence two priceless blessings they 
have never known; i. e., honesty in the administration 
of justice and a free public school education. As a 
people they have everything to gain by loyalty and 

[182] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

everything to lose by disloyalty. The masses will 
never want to rebel, and the few who might be 
active in stirring trouble cannot fail to realize the 
futihty and foolishness of such a step. I predict 
there will never be a new insurrection. 

Tomorrow we go to Bacolod, Island of Negros, 
lying just across the straits from Iloilo. As the 
passage is somewhat dangerous and the Sumner 
needs coaling, the journey is to be made in the Chur- 
ruca, a small coasting vessel. 



March 21, igoi. 

We left the Sumner at nine-thirty this morning 
prepared for an absence of three days. The run to 
Bacolod took over three hours and was anything 
but a pleasure trip. Our boat pitched and tossed 
outrageously, and faces usually sunny took on a seri- 
ous and anixous look, with a tendency " to seek the 
seclusion the cabin grants." Dr. Tavera, whom 
the slightest motion upsets, looked the picture of 
woe. Judge Taft, whose spirits seemed to rise as 
others fell, rallied the Doctor upon his failing, say- 
ing that as a medical man of international repute he 
should know a cure for seasickness. To this the 
Doctor replied that he knew a perfect remedy; i. e., 
to take a walk in a garden. 

In a former letter I described a reception given 
the Commission off the coast of Bataan, where we 
were hailed by a great fleet of decorated bancas. I 
thought then it was a sight that would never be dupli- 

[183] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

cated, but it has been rivaled today. As our boat 
neared the Negros coast there swept out from the 
gray horizon numberless proas — deep, narrow 
craft with wide spreading sails and outriggers. The 
wind was strong and the sea rough, and as the wildly 
surging boats careened from side to side the occu- 
pants shifted from one outrigger to the other as 
ballast, the sea constantly ducking them. Under full 
sail and with banners flying they cut through the 
water at a tremendous rate, veering, turning, and 
circling about us like winged things, the crew 
apparently risking their lives at every turn. 

Like most of the island towns, Bacolod has no 
harbor, merely an open roadstead. To reach shore 
two transfers were necessary, first into a steam 
launch and then into a magnificent, canopied banca. 
The tide was high, else we would have had to make 
another change into carabao carts. The population 
of Bacolod lined the shore by thousands. The place 
was gay with flags and arches, and the air pulsated 
with music. While we are growing somewhat used 
to this sort of thing, it still retains its element of 
strangeness. 

Ample preparations had been made for our 
reception and lodgment. Twelve of us are domi- 
ciled in one house, the family having vacated. It is 
a sort of bachelor's dormitory with kitchen attach- 
ment, our meals being served In the house. They 
consist of purely Filipino products, and though we 
appreciate the evident zeal of our hosts, the prospect 
of three days of it makes the crowd look solemn. 

[184] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

That evening a reception was tendered the Commis- 
sion at the Government house, the mihtary and nu- 
merous native dignitaries being present. The rooms 
were large, with beautiful hardwood floors polished 
to a state of transparent brilliancy. 



March 22, igoi. 

Negros occupies a somewhat unique position, as it 
already enjoys a form of civil government. The 
people accepted American sovereignty without in- 
surrection, and a scheme of government was devised 
by the military. The system has proved somewhat 
cumbersome and expensive, and opposition has de- 
veloped to it and to the personnel of the present 
officers. Those in power naturally seek to perpetuate 
themselves, but there is a strong faction demanding 
that regular provincial government be applied. The 
residents of the east coast also ask that they be 
erected into a separate province, claiming that Baco- 
lod is not only inaccessible but that they do not get 
a fair share of the revenues. It was a battle royal 
into which the Commission plunged when it met the 
people this morning. 

At twelve we adjourned until manana, our entire 
coterie having been invited for the afternoon to a 
banquet at the hacienda " Rosario," a large sugar 
plantation seven miles distant, owned by Sefior Lac- 
son. The Philippines are noted for their sugar 
lands; of the various islands Negros stands first, and 
of all the plantations that of " Rosario " is the best. 

[185] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

The drive was made in a variety of vehicles, grading 
from army ambulances to a species of two-wheeled 
box drawn by humped cows. These latter trot along 
just like horses and make very excellent time. En 
route, as one of these box affairs was crossing a 
small river, the shafts became unloosened and the 
contrivance tipped over backwards. Mr. Branagan 
and Rupert Fergusson, who chanced to be the vic- 
tims, stood on their backs with their feet waving 
wildly in the air until help arrived. They suffered 
no damage save a wetting, with a possible hurt to 
their feelings on account of the boisterous and incon- 
siderate mirth of those who witnessed their plight. 
Our reception and banquet at the hacienda realized 
every conception we had formed of life on these 
great country estates. The house, which is immense, 
is itself the center of a small village where live the 
employees of the plantation, estimated at over a 
thousand. Sefior Lacson has his own police, his own 
band, and all the accessories of a small principality. 
A little to one side stands the mill where the cane is 
ground and sugar made. A half mile to the west lay 
the sea; to the east, almost as far as we could see, 
stretched the rich cane and rice lands, interspersed 
with feathery bamboo and tall cocoanut palms. Here 
and there over the fields could be seen carabaos 
drawing carts loaded with cane to the mills. Beyond 
all rose the mountains, part of the chain which di- 
vides the island. We sat down to table before three, 
and it was after five when we arose. The function 
was perfect in its arrangements, and the Commission 

[i86] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

and party relaxed for a time from all thought of 
politics and problems. Toasts were proposed by 
Judge Taft, by Judge Yusay of the island courts, and 
by Dr. Tavera. During his speech Seiior Yusay paid 
one of the most glowing tributes to American women 
I have ever heard. Spanish lends itself to beautiful 
phrasing and to sentiments which in our more prac- 
tical English might sound a little romantic. He 
spoke of her beauty and intelligence, of her courage 
and devotion, and of those high qualities which led 
her to cross wide seas and brave the perils of un- 
known lands to cheer the husband and brother in the 
great tasks appointed them. 

To those of us who are aware of the fact that 
more women are waiting in San Francisco to come 
to the islands than can be accommodated, and that 
there is scarcely a woman in Manila but would have 
been glad of this experience, the force of his remarks 
was somewhat discounted. He was sincere, how- 
ever, for it is to be remembered that the part played 
by Anglo-Saxon women in the home and in public 
affairs is very different from that allotted to those 
of Latin race and training. 



March 28, igoi. 
At the meeting this morning much feeling was 
manifested by some of the speakers in referring to 
the present government. The sentiment seemed 
quite general that it should be changed and the regu- 
lar provincial act applied. The tide was too strong 

[187] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

for the present officers to stem, and they finally 
begged only for time. A month's leeway was accord- 
ingly granted, the change to occur not later than 
May I. The Commission apparently pleased all 
factions and effected a satisfactory solution of what 
threatened to be a serious problem. Here, as every- 
where, we find an insistent demand for schools. One 
of the speakers in asking for American teachers inci- 
dentally raised the question of religious instruction, 
saying the people hated the Friars worse than they 
did locusts. As the locusts have seriously damaged 
their crops for years, this was emphatic. Later 
we had tiffin with the Governor, lasting two hours, 
followed by bicycle races under the auspices of the 
Federal Party. At the close of the meet Dr. Tavera 
made a characteristic speech, in which he said that 
for three centuries and a half Spain had been teach- 
ing the Filipinos the way to heaven and little else; 
that now the Americans would try to teach them as 
well how best to live on earth ; that Filipinos in mate- 
rial affairs, as in the construction of their houses, be- 
gan at the top, putting the roof on first. 

The Governor gave a ball in the evening, a 
crowded and brilliant affair. These entertainments 
usually last until about four in the morning, and 
while we do not usually stay until that hour, we are 
coming to believe that service with this Commission 
means not only a test of mental capacity but of phys- 
ical endurance as well. The original plan was to 
leave for Iloilo early next morning, but as some of 
the party considered this a bit strenuous, the hour 

[i88] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

was changed to four in the afternoon. Commis- 
sioners Wright, Ide, and Moses arranged to leave 
on a quartermaster launch at six a. m., and I was 
invited to join them. This appealed to me more 
than an extra day in Bacolod, with the chance of 
further ruining my digestion. 



March 24, igoi. 
Our quartette was on board the Sumner shortly 
after ten A. M., the others not arriving until eleven at 
night. Tomorrow afternoon we start for the do- 
mains of the Sultan of Sulu, which will be our long- 
est run thus far — about thirty hours. 



[189] 



XI 

THE SOUTHERN TRIP, CONTINUED 

U. S. Transport Sumner, 

March 26, igoi. 
^ I ^HE run today has been a pleasant, restful one, 
"*- the charm of which lay In the very fact of its 
being uneventful. The air was cool and fragrant, 
the sea calm, and the party good-natured and In- 
clined to be lazy. All day we sailed close beside 
pretty little Islands, clean-washed and smiling In their 
coat of green; they seemed to beckon us to come 
and play with them, and we were sorry we could 
not. The day died with a flare of purple and gold, 
over which a great white moon gradually drew a 
mantle of shimmering silver as soft and filmy as the 
fiber of a dream. Through this white radiance our 
boat glided with scarce a ripple, bearing us on to 
lands of newness and mystery like unto those sung 
in olden story. As we gazed out over the sea, and 
saw the shadow of strange headlands blur the 
horizon, there tugged at memory all those ancient 
tales of Argonaut and Odyssey, whose heroes sailed 
a younger earth and found therein such great adven- 
ture. 

At ten o'clock the Sumner anchored off the little 

[190] 




President Taft and Sultan of Sulu 




Group of Bataks, Paragua 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

town of Jolo, the chief port of the Sulu Archipelago. 
We are now in Moroland, the habitat of genuine 
pirates and bolomen. It is but a few years since 
their long proas swept all these southern seas, a 
menace to shipping and a terror to their Filipino 
neighbors, whom they periodically looted of treasure 
and slaves. They represent the latest wave of Malay 
invasion of the Philippines, and are still practically 
untouched by modern civilization. Through all her 
occupation Spain struggled in vain to conquer the 
Moro and subject him to her civil and religious rule. 
Mohammedan he was and is; a fighter, a slave 
holder, and a polygamist, governed by his own 
Sultans and Dattos and amenable to no other au- 
thority. The greater portion of Mindanao, the 
Island of Basilan, and the whole of the Sulu group, 
constitute a problem entirely separate and distinct 
from the so-called " Christian Provinces " of the 
archipelago. There is no question here of a 
Municipal Code or Provincial Government Act; the 
Moro has still a long climb before he can remotely 
understand their meaning. The proposition front- 
ing us with these followers of Mohamet is to pre- 
serve law and order, while interfering as little as 
possible with their religion, tribal customs, and local 
laws. The Sulu Islands are now administered by the 
military under a treaty entered into between General 
Bates and the Sultan, whereby certain money pay- 
ments are made the latter and his authority vari- 
ously recognized. Thus far there has been no fric- 
tion, though this furnishes no guarantee for the 

[191] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

future. The question which most perplexes our 
authorities is the attitude to be taken regarding 
slavery. Naturally we cannot recognize or protect 
it, yet any attempt to abolish or arbitrarily suppress 
the practice would undoubtedly precipitate a conflict 
with a somewhat fierce antagonist. 



JoLO, March 27, igoi. 

The breakfast gong this morning found all the 
laggards on deck, the atmosphere being surcharged 
with anticipation over the day's events. There was 
that prevailing restlessness which always marks the 
coming into new ports, rendered acute here by the 
distant sight of shore boats thronged with our 
piratical fellow-citizens. Shortly before ten the pro- 
cession started, forming into three long columns, 
each headed by a triumphal barge canopied in bright 
scarlet. We could hear the beat of tom-toms and 
other strange instruments, mingled with the cheers 
of the rowers, as the regatta moved onward. There 
were sixty-five craft in line, rigged out in barbaric 
splendor. As they approached the transport they 
converged and swept around us a dazzling mass of 
color. The noise, the brilliant costumes, the move- 
ment, was exhilarating, and we tore from one end 
of the ship to the other, whooping and yelling in 
concert with our more savage brothers. 

The Sultan, who lives at Mauban, twelve miles 
across the hills, came to Jolo to meet the Commis- 
sion, the ship's launch being sent to bring him 

[192] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

aboard. He appeared about eleven, accompanied 
by his "Prime Minister" and a retinue of fearfully 
and wonderfully costumed bolomen, and was greeted 
with a salute of seventeen guns. The Sultan was 
dressed in an European military uniform, resplendent 
with gold braid. He was met at the gangway by the 
Commissioners, and then ran the gauntlet of an 
interested line of spectators. A conference was held 
later through an interpreter, and assurances given of 
our good intentions, and of our purpose to respect 
the religion and social customs of his people. Be- 
fore leaving he was introduced to the ladies, whom 
he invited to visit his village and meet the women 
of his household. The Sultan is a rather weak look- 
ing specimen, and it is said he is as weak as he looks. 

The fact that he is the lawful representative of 
Mohammedanism in the islands is the only thing 
which enables him to retain any sort of hold over 
his people and the more energetic Dattos. 

We all went ashore in the afternoon and found 
Jolo one of the cleanest, prettiest, best-shaded little 
spots we have seen in the islands. It is surrounded 
by a wall, needed in former times, and possibly now, 
as a defense against the Moros. None of the latter 
are allowed to live within the walls, and those enter- 
ing are required to deposit their bolos at the gates. 
There are about seven hundred soldiers in Jolo, with 
their quota of officers. Today was a holiday for the 
people, and they gathered from far and near, form- 
ing a medley of humanity which baffles description. 
An area had been roped off on one of the main thor- 

[193] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

oughfares, where a program of native dances and 
mimic combats was staged. With their large shields 
and long spears the fighters presented a formidable 
appearance, their gestures and expressions in the dif- 
ferent numbers being striliingly realistic. Neither 
the men nor women are prepossessing, their habit of 
chewing betel-nut blackening the teeth and mouth, 
making their smile and laugh something hideous. In 
the evening we were tendered a reception by the 
ladies and officers of the post. The night was per- 
fect, the bright moonlight throwing into relief the 
tall trees and causing the mountains — which bulked 
dark behind the town — to appear startlingly near 
and distinct. 



JoLO, March 2g, igoi. 
The Commission held interviews today with 
Dattos, military officers, and others concerning the 
Moro situation. The social end of our aggregation 
explored the native villages beyond the walls and 
bought bolos, sarongs, old brass, mats, etc., the 
strong demand sending prices skyward. Later in the 
day our army friends dined with us on the transport, 
music being furnished by the garrison band. After 
dinner, as we sat about the deck. Judge Taft was 
handed a cablegram announcing Aguinaldo's capture, 
and that he was a prisoner in Manila. As the 
information flashed round the circle one could feel 
the thrill of it. The long-wished for had happened 
and to all came the thought: *'The end is here, 

[194] 




Moro Sports, Cotabato, Mindanao 




Moro Dancing Girls, Cotabato, Mindanao 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

peace is at hand." The band struck up " The Star 
Spangled Banner," and everyone was on his feet 
It was one of those rare moments which one instinc- 
tively felt marked the crisis of great events. At 
midnight we left for Isabela, Island of Basilan. 



April 3, igoi. 

Today was spent at sea en route Cotabato to 
Davao. In the interim since leaving Jolo we have 
visited Isabela de Basilan, have spent two days in 
Zamboanga, and taken part in a jamboree of exciting 
incidents at Cotabato. 

Basilan was formerly a Spanish naval station and 
is now garrisoned by a detachment of our marines. 
We stopped there but a few hours, the Commission 
interviewing the officer in charge and some of the 
leading citizens, the latter asking for a municipal 
government. Their petition was denied, the place 
being too small and poor to stand the strain. 

We found Zamboanga a charming place. It is 
the military headquarters of Mindanao, General 
Kobbe being in command. Aside from the Moro 
population there is quite a large Filipino element, 
whom we met in public session. It was soon evident 
they are not now able to support a regular provincial 
government. Disease among their live stock has left 
but thirty carabao in the province, most of the land 
having remained untilled for two years. It was sug- 
gested that the present province be erected Into a 
municipality, which would prove less costly and still 
give the people a voice in public affair?. The scheme 

[195] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

was taken under advisement by the Commission. 
Interviews were had with General Kobbe and other 
officers of the post; also with Datto Mandi, who 
controls the More contingent. Quite a mass of 
information was gathered concerning conditions 
throughout Mindanao bearing on the tribal customs, 
laws, and religion of the inhabitants. 

On the last afternoon of our stay Dr. Atkinson, 
Superintendent of Schools, and a small company of 
us made a trip by launch to San Ramon, twelve miles 
up the coast, where they have what is termed a 
" Model Farm." It was formerly used as a penal 
colony and is now in charge of an army major. Dur- 
ing the whole of our run we were scarcely a hundred 
yards from shore and were furnished a kaleidoscopic 
panorama of the beautiful in tropical landscape. We 
spent some time on the farm, seeing hemp, cocoa- 
nuts, pineapples, cane, etc., in their native state. We 
started back just before dusk, and the two hours' 
ride through the twilight and the moonlight was 
enchanting. 

We anchored off the river leading to Cotabato 
early the afternoon of the first. Major McMahon, 
in command, came aboard in the evening, accom- 
panied by Dattos Piang and Ali, and their attendants. 
Piang Is a Chinese Mestizo, said to be the most 
powerful Datto in all Mindanao, having won his 
place through superior Intelligence and cunning. The 
Chinese are the great middlemen and merchants of 
the Philippines, and we find them everywhere. They 
have a genius for trade and are disliked by the Fili- 

[196] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

pinos accordingly. The Dattos were shown about 
the ship and were as interested as children in the 
electric lights and fans, the ice plant, shower baths, 
machinery, etc. When given a piece of ice to hold 
— the first they had ever felt — their expressions 
were a study. As we watched them it was rather 
difficult to imagine they held undisputed sway over 
many villages and were the arbiters of life and death 
to thousands of followers. 

Cotabato is situated seven miles up the Rio Grande 
de Mindanao, one of the largest streams of the 
archipelago. We journeyed up the river in the early 
morning and were given a glimpse of Nature 
primeval. The banks were lined with rank jungle 
growth, amid which troops of wild monkeys swung 
and screamed as our launch disturbed their solitude. 
At the Cotabato landing we were greeted by as 
heterogeneous a crowd as Imagination can conceive. 
Three companies of soldiers were in line, as also the 
" Moro guard," and a company of native police 
decked out in all the panoply of pagan pride. Ad- 
vised of the coming of the Commission, all the up- 
river Dattos and their following had donned their 
bravest and come to town. Never before in all like- 
lihood has there been such a gathering of Dattos at 
one point. 

It being the present policy of our authorities to 
occupy merely the role of counselors and arbitrators 
in Moro affairs, no effort was made to establish local 
government. The Moros, although primitive In 
many ways, seem to work out substantial justice 

[197] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

among themselves. Their Dattos, notwithstanding 
their almost absolute power, live very near the people 
and there prevails much of the democracy of a 
patriarchal government. If a Datto abuses his 
powers his followers are apt to transfer their 
allegiance to some other leader. Of course, the 
value placed upon human life is less than we give it, 
but not less than our forebears gave it not so very 
long ago. Their religion permits a plurality of 
wives, but the practice seems confined largely to 
those who can afford the luxury. Slavery as it exists 
among them has none of the inequalities of station 
which rendered it obnoxious in our country. Slaves 
and master live together on terms of familiarity if 
not equality, and there is little doubt but that if 
liberated tomorrow most of them would not change 
their present status. 

Most of the day was spent in receiving and hear- 
ing delegations of various kinds — Chinamen, Fili- 
pinos, Spaniards, and Moros. The interviews were 
reported verbatim, we of the pencil working in 
relays, thus giving each an opportunity to browse 
about and enter the lists as purchasers of Moro 
weapons, sarongs, and other curios. The Sumner 
is gradually being transformed into an arsenal or an 
Oriental bazaar. I reported the Chinese interview, 
then having a respite until after tiffin, when I had a 
collection of Dattos. They were a choice assortment. 
It has fallen to my lot to do reporting from Vera 
Cruz to Montreal, and from New York to Manila, 
some of it spectacular enough, but the experience to- 

[198] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

day surpassed them all. Sitting in a semi-circle about 
the Commission were at least a dozen Dattos, all 
dressed in rich, multi-colored garments, most of them 
wearing decorations and medals presented by former 
governors to win their favor. All were barefooted, 
for it seems a pecuharity of primitive people to dress 
from the top downward, a straw hat frequently con- 
stituting a full costume. Each Datto had his per- 
sonal attendants, who acted as bodyguard, and who 
also carried the brass betel-nut box, which seems an 
indispensable part of each outfit. Some of them also 
carried large, colored umbrellas to shield their lord 
and master from the rays of the sun. Without 
exception they were armed with the Moro kris, a 
long, wavy, murderous weapon, something after the 
pattern of a bread knife. Many of these knives 
were quite ornamental, with handles of gold, silver, 
and finely carved Ivory and ebony. The Dattos were 
questioned concerning their government and whether 
they had any complaints to make against our authori- 
ties. Two interpreters were used, one putting Moro 
Into Spanish and the other Spanish Into English. 
There were no complaints, all the Dattos stating that 
since American occupation there has been a condition 
of peace never known before. As we have made no 
effort to implant our religious views among them — 
which was Spain's great source of trouble — they 
labor under the impression that we have no belief, 
and are favorably disposed in consequence. It seems, 
though, that in the interim between the departure 
of the Spaniards and our coming, things ran a lively 

[199] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

course. One old Datto, Bakki by name, complained 
of Dattos Piang and AH, declaring they had stolen 
seventy-three of his carabaos, had devastated his 
fields, and taken his palay, had killed his nephew and 
cousin, and had carried off one hundred and eighty- 
three of his people. As old Bakki's much interpreted 
tale of wrong and outrage ran its dramatic course I 
wished again that our humane and highly ethical 
" anti-imperialists " in the States could have been 
with us. They would have appreciated better then 
perhaps the distance which separates these people 
from Bunker Hill, and have realized that our pres- 
ence alone prevents constant turmoil with its toll of 
human life and suffering. The Commission assured 
old Bakki that the matter would be investigated and 
restitution made him if possible. 

Following our indoor meet we were treated to a 
series of dances and native sports beneath the great 
trees which shadowed the plaza square. The first 
number was by two little girls — princesses it was 
said — who went through a series of motions with 
arms and body to some weird native music, their 
faces remaining perfectly expressionless. We then 
had a combat with shield and bolo between Moros 
dressed In queer chain armor, reminding of some 
ancient gladitorial show. After them five women of 
a tribe known as TIrurays gave us a dance to the 
music of'a bamboo band. They wore brass bracelets 
reaching the elbow and brass rings on their legs 
reaching to the knee. One wondered how they could 
move so freely, weighted as they were. There was 

[200] 




s 






THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

also a mimic battle with fifteen natives to a side, one 
faction armed with shields and long knives known 
as campilans, the other with shields and spears. 
They hurled defiance at each other in set speeches, 
brandishing their arms and uttering strange war 
cries, finally clashing in combat. Here, as in Jolo, 
the setting of the program was possibly more inter- 
esting than the games themselves. The color, the 
life, the strange costumes and faces made us wonder 
if it was all real. I doubt If any drop curtain ever 
shut off a more fanciful and picturesque scene than 
that which fronted us at the landing as our launch 
drew away on its return trip to the Sumner. It was 
the spectacular run riot and beyond all the skill of 
the cleverest stage manager. 



April 4, I go I. 
We passed yesterday at sea, our course taking us 
around the southeastern peninsula of Mindanao and 
within five degrees of the equator. Today we visited 
Davao, one of the most isolated of our army posts. 
The place has no cable and mail reaches there but 
once a month. The population Is mostly pagan, 
known as Bagobos, a quiet, timid looking people, 
easily imposed upon by their more virile neighbors. 
Their costumes are particularly attractive, being of 
bright colored cloth covered with fine bead work. 
To the curio hunter Davao offered the richest field 
yet encountered, and scarcely was our first reception 
over when the orderly scene became transformed 
Into a struggling exchange. At the suggestion of 

[ 20I ] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Commissioner Dean C. Worcester, who is taking a 
series of photographs, and who feared the natives 
would be despoiled of their fine gear before he got 
into action. Judge Taft asked that the buying cease 
until afternoon. There was some murmuring at this, 
but the bargaining appreciably slackened. Here, as 
elsewhere, interviews were held with the representa- 
tives of the people and further data added to our 
fast increasing and miscellaneous store. In the after- 
noon we were furnished another program of native 
sports, photographs were duly taken, and the inter- 
rupted marketing resumed. Before we returned to 
the boat those natives looked like a lot of plucked 
birds, many of them selling the clothes off their 
backs. As the demand ran up the price, no injustice 
was done. 



April 6, I go I. 
This morning we anchored in the beautiful Bay of 
Surigao, on the northern point of Mindanao. We 
have bid adieu to our Moro and pagan brothers and 
are again in the land of iglesias and conventos, with 
their somewhat diluted Christianity. Once more we 
take up the tale of the Municipal Code and Pro- 
vincial Government Act, and "by open speech and 
simple, an hundred times made plain, seek out an- 
other's profit and work another's gain." Yesterday 
our boat left the island seas and caught for a time 
the long swell of the Pacific, whose blue surges, far 
to the eastward, beat upon the distant shores of 
home. At night a brilliant moon paled by its splendor 

[ 202 ] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

the glow of the southern cross, which here rides high 
above the horizon. 

Through some "crossing of the wires" the com- 
manding officer at Surigao was without advice of our 
coming, his only notice being an item In a Manila 
paper. Based on this he gathered together a few 
municipal officers, though five presidents are in jail 
charged with furnishing supplies to the insurgents. 
The morning was showery and it was eleven before 
we went ashore. We found the transportation lim- 
ited to four quiles and one carromata, which were 
placed at the disposal of the ladies. The rest of us 
walked, the place of meeting being over half a mile 
distant. A short session was held, which developed 
that the province had sufficient population and re- 
sources to warrant a provincial government. The 
rain came down in torrents as we started for the 
landing, and the procession that filed down " Bates 
Avenue " was doubtless a novel spectacle to the occu- 
pants of the nipa mansions en route. Tonight we 
reveled in more moonlight and more islands. 



MisAMis, April 7, igoi. 
Today we did our duty by the Province of 
Misamis, and a most exciting time we have had of 
it. The capital, Cagayan, is two and a half miles 
inland, reached by road and river. The Commission 
and a few of us drove over In the morning In army 
ambulances, the others coming up the river by launch 
in the afternoon. At military headquarters I ran 

[ 203 ] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

across an old acquaintance, Dave Dodge, now a lieu- 
tenant In the Fortieth Infantry. Ten years ago we 
were fellow clerks In the general offices of the Mis- 
souri, Kansas & Texas Railway at Sedalla, Missouri, 
and now met by chance In this far corner of the 
globe. Among the "leading citizens" gathered to 
meet the Commission was General Nicholas Capi- 
strano, an insurgent leader who surrendered some 
two weeks ago. He took quite a prominent part in 
the meeting and seemed satisfied that more could be 
accomplished for his people through peace than war. 
Sessions were held both morning and afternoon and 
a provincial government promised the people. The 
Filipino banquet served at noon was excellent, there 
being less oil and garlic than usual. 

Our return was to be by river, the ship's launch 
and a cutter having come for us. Just before six, 
the hour for starting, it began raining. There is 
little objection to getting wet here, but as the laundry 
facilities on board are limited, this getting wet two 
days in succession was a calamity. Most of us 
reached the launch on time, somewhat damp and 
none too good-natured. There we sat nearly an 
hour waiting for the Commissioners. The rain con- 
tinued; night was falling, and the navigation of the 
river uncertain. The Commission, it seems, was 
detained by a conference with some officers, but in 
the meantime many evil things were said of them, 
and the fair ones of their households threatened dire 
reprisa,ls. It was seven when we started, the women 
in the launch and the men in the cutter. We had 

[204] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

gone but a short distance when, bumpety-bump, the 
launch struck on a sunken pier, breaking a propeller 
blade. Further on we ran onto a sandbar, and 
sawed backward and forward looking for the chan- 
nel. Finally some of the ladies were transferred to 
the already overcrowded cutter, and the launch thus 
lightened worked slowly down the river. It was 
now dark and the launch was without lights; some 
of the children were crying, and the steam and the 
heat and the various delays and accidents began get- 
ting on our nerves. Reaching the mouth of the river, 
the officer In charge refused to cross the bar until the 
moon rose or a light was brought from the ship. We 
lay to, therefore, firing distress signals and blow- 
ing the whistle. The rain continued, streams 
trickled down our backs and we sat In pools of It. 
Some of the party took off their shoes, ready for the 
worst. Tales were told also of crocodiles who made 
a specialty of night attacks. After fooling away 
an hour In this fashion the passage of the bar was 
attempted and negotiated safely. Later we met two 
cutters, fully manned, coming to our rescue. Those 
on board, seeing our distress signals. Imagined we 
were all being drowned. It was after nine when 
we sat down to dinner. 



April 8, I go I. 

When we came on deck this morning we were 

lying off Dapltan, our last stop In Mindanao. The 

place has a special interest In that Jose Rizal, the 

Filipino patriot, lived here for some three years when 

[ 205 ] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

exiled from Manila. Of all the men the islands have 
produced Rizal is probably the greatest, and his 
memory is now revered by the people. He was born 
to an environment, however, where intellectual 
attainments and progressive ideas marked a man for 
destruction, and this though he lived in the closing 
days of the nineteenth century. Rizal, author, sci- 
entist, great of heart and liberal of mind, was pub- 
licly shot on the fashionable driveway of Manila — 
the Luneta — on December 30, 1896. Whatever 
reason may then have been assigned for his execu- 
tion, history will record that he died because in his 
life and in his writings he antagonized the religious 
orders of the Church of Rome. 

We found the province or district of Dapitan too 
small to support an independent government. The 
people upon being given a choice of annexation to 
Misamis or forming part of the Department of 
Mindanao, chose the latter. At one-thirty, ahead 
of schedule, we left for Dumaguete, Island of 
Negros, which we reached late this evening. Cable- 
grams were received here announcing the capture of 
the insurgent leader Geronimo, and the surrender 
of most of the insurgent troops in Luzon. The pre- 
diction of the Commission last August that the elec- 
tion of McKinley would speedily end the insurrection 
is being amply verified. 



April g, igoi. 
The reception at Dumaguete compared favorably 
with any yet given. Negros is one of the richest 

[206] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

islands in the archipelago and, not having joined the 
insurrection, has escaped much of the devastation 
wrought elsewhere. We landed upon a large cov- 
ered bamboo raft, and were welcomed by an im- 
mense crowd of people. There were seven bands, 
each endeavoring to outplay the other. Two or 
three triumphal arches graced the landing, and the 
entire distance from the wharf to the session hall, 
nearly a quarter of a mile, was shaded by a canopy 
of cloth strung upon a frame of bamboo. This is 
the most ambitious effort yet encountered to do hom- 
age to the Commission. Here, as in Western 
Negros, the people requested that their present form 
of government be changed and the regular pro- 
vincial act applied. An elaborate spread followed 
the morning session, when the ladies returned to the 
boat. In the afternoon a resolution was adopted 
by the Commission promising to apply the provincial 
act and devising a scheme for dividing the money 
on hand. We planned to sail at seven, but a banquet 
and ball having been arranged we remained on con- 
dition we could leave not later than eleven. Only 
five of the ladies appeared in the evening, the others 
having given out. Within the past four days we 
have visited Surlgao, Cagayan, Dapitan, and 
Dumaguete, and are due in Iloilo tomorrow. It is a 
pretty stiff pace to hold. While my letters dwell 
largely on the lighter side of our trip, there are also 
long weary hours spent In small, poorly-ventilated 
rooms, crowded to suffocation, threshing over and 
over the provincial law and the various problems 

[207] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

now agitating this people. Neither is there rest on 
shipboard; mail and telegrams pour in, and the Com- 
mission is in executive session most of the time. It 
is all enormously interesting, but not restful. 

The evening's entertainment was delightful, and 
it was with difficulty we got away in time to sail at 
midnight. 



Iloilo, April lo, igoi. 

As we are to remain in port but two days, the 
question of laundry took precedence over questions 
of government. Fred Carpenter and I went ashore 
on the first craft available — about three o'clock — 
and our approach to the dock was heralded by bands 
and a many-voiced multitude. We excused ourselves 
as best we could and told the people that "the big 
show In the main tent" would open at four. We 
then spent an hour hunting to earth a lone Chinese 
laundryman. The cocheros here speak little Span- 
ish, and the rest of the population live In a state of 
Missful Ignorance concerning the industries of their 
town. 

The Commission met with the presidents and 
representatives of the people In the theater building. 
Judge Taft explained the proposed provincial law to 
them, dwelling particularly on the land tax feature, 
the scope and wisdom of which do not appeal to the 
landed class, whose property has thus far been 
largely exempt from assessment. After the meeting 
questions of government gave way to questions of 

[208] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

banquets and bailes. Adjacent to Hollo are the rival 
towns of Molo and Jaro, each striving to outdo the 
other in entertaining the Commission. The proposed 
program involved a dinner and baile at Iloilo the 
first night, and a luncheon with the "Union Club" 
next day; a banquet and ball at Molo in the evening, 
with Jaro announced for the third and last night. 
The only weak spot in the plan was that it over- 
estimated the staying qualities of the Commission. 
Judge Taft told the people that while we had no 
fear now of Filipino bullets or bolos, we did feel 
our lives endangered by Filipino hospitality. It was 
finally agreed to attend the banquet and ball that 
evening and the luncheon next day; to decline the 
banquet at Molo, but drive out later to the baile; to 
cut the banquet and ball altogether at Jaro and take 
luncheon with them instead. The Jaro people ob- 
jected to this, but the Commission stood firm. To 
attend three successive banquets and bailes after 
working and perspiring all day was to invite disaster. 
The city council of Iloilo were hosts the first eve- 
ning. Carriages awaited us at the landing and we 
drove to the ball in procession. A peculiar custom 
at these functions Is for a number of cavaliers to 
stand at the street door and when a lady appears 
offer an arm and escort her to the reception room. 
The fact that she already has an escort makes no 
difference, the latter being allowed to hustle for 
himself. Once having brought their charge Inside 
the hall, these voluntary escorts abandon her and 
rush back to capture the next prize. I have seen a 

[209] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

lady escorted in this fashion into a large club dance, 
and, when effectually separated from everyone she 
knew, left entirely alone. 

The banquet hall that evening was beautifully 
decorated, the luxuriance of tropical vegetation lend- 
ing itself to fine decorative effects. Dinner was 
much as others described. The ball opened, as do 
all these dances, with the Rigodon, a native square 
dance, resembling our lancers, but more stately in 
its movements. Any number can dance at one time. 
Judge Taft, who is an excellent dancer, generally 
leads with the hostess and Mrs. Taft with the host, 
forming opposite couples. The large rooms and 
polished floors of these houses lend themselves ad- 
mirably to this dance. When the set is complete 
and the little maidens with their bright, multi-colored 
skirts are gliding about in orderly confusion, it 
makes a picture to delight the eye. It was one 
o'clock when we started for the ship, the ride over 
the water through the night air being a treat. 



Iloilo, April ii, igoi. 
This has been a busy day. Public sessions were 
field both morning and afternoon, the provincial law 
adopted, and appointments made. During a discus- 
sion as to the classification of the towns, one speaker 
suggested that this be based upon the culture of the 
inhabitants. A great many original ideas of this 
kind are furnished by the different speakers. The 
Commission appointed as Provincial Governor, Gen- 

[210] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

eral Martin Delgado, late leader of the insurgent 
forces of Panay. The American press of Manila is 
indulging in rather hysterical criticism of the Com- 
mission for appointing ex-insurgents to office. In 
the present case, however, as in many others, such 
appointment has secured an efficient officer and at the 
same time evidenced to the people that the Commis- 
sion holds no rancor towards those who fought 
against us provided they now join in restoring 
orderly government. Possibly no other one thing 
better illustrates the difference between our policy 
and that of the old regime ; then such offenders would 
have been shot or banished; now they are invited to 
cooperate with us not only as government officials 
but also in training their people for the very thing 
they were fighting for; i.e., self-government. 
Whether their present gratitude for this altruism 
upon our part will continue, or whether amid the 
wilderness of party strife and petty politics lying 
before them they will forget their old servitude, 
remains to be seen. 

We took luncheon at the club as arranged, but 
there is nothing in a name. Whether it be called 
lunch or dinner, the array of dishes and variety of 
wines are the same — though some of us have 
learned by experience to pass warm champagne at 
midday. 

But eight of the party responded for the drive to 
Molo in the evening, the others being down and out. 
Judge and Mrs. Taft, being the "Hamlet" of these 
occasions, had no alternative, while of the other 

[211] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Commissioners, Worcester and Moses came to the 
scratch. Mrs. Moses, Miss Herron, and Miss 
Briggs showed up, and I also joined the endurance 
test. As we drove beneath the brilliantly illuminated 
arches of Molo, and saw the facades of the houses 
all agleam with lights, we regretted the smallness 
of our number. It seemed such a poor recompense 
for all the labor and expense Incurred on our ac- 
count. Certainly the wealth and beauty of Molo 
had gathered to meet us, and it is the home of many 
of the rich sugar planters of Negros and Panay. 
There were sehoritas banked up and down the rooms 
like masses of bright-hued flowers. Diamonds and 
pearls gleamed in profusion, the surplus savings of 
the community being apparently Invested In precious 
stones. Our ladies are frequently asked where are 
their diamonds — it being taken for granted they 
must possess an abundance. I believe the usual reply 
is that they were left in Manila for safe-keeping — 
though it would take more than a search warrant to 
find them. The embroidery display about the room 
rivaled in richness the finest loot brought from the 
Pekin campaign. The fashions In dress here never 
change, thus permitting these wonderful costumes to 
be handed down from mother to daughter without 
any necessity for alteration. 

Despite the understanding that we were not to 
dine with them, a spread had been prepared and they 
were awaiting us. As our mission is to please at all 
hazards, It was determined to attempt a second din- 
ner. History records many acts of heroism, but 

[212] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

when the list is closed this eating of a Filipino dinner 
when you are already full should hold high place. It 
was midnight when we started for the boat. All 
agreed that had the people of Jaro prevailed on us 
to banquet and baile with them the third night not a 
soul would have shown up. 



April 12, igoi. 

We took lunch at Jaro today per schedule and 
were given a royal reception. All these places suf- 
fered severely during the war. The insurgents them- 
selves burned Iloilo to the ground, and Jaro was 
depopulated upon the approach of the Americans. 
Women of wealth and refinement and tender chil- 
dren lived for a year and more in rude shelters in 
the mountains, a prey to their fear of the Americans, 
and a prey too often to the ruthless among their own 
forces. When they returned many of them found 
their homes burned or denuded of furniture. As I 
talked with them of these things — and they are not 
given to complaint — I wondered how they could 
regard us as favorably as they do. I sincerely believe 
satisfactory conditions could never be evolved here 
by the military alone, and in this I do not necessarily 
criticise the men in charge as much as the system. 
You cannot inspire confidence or affection with a 
club. Under military rule the Filipinos would never 
get a just impression of American institutions or of 
our purposes toward them. 

The sending of the Civil Commission to the 

[213] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

islands will, when the proper perspective is attained, 
be chronicled as one of the greatest acts of Mc- 
Kinley's administration. In the face of native an- 
tagonism, and a hostile American press, and handi- 
capped by a Military Governor who stated that he 
felt " deeply humiliated" by their presence, the Com- 
mission has steadily prosecuted its work, ignoring 
many things which might well have exasperated 
them into counter-attacks which would have dis- 
graced our country. Gradually, as the nature of the 
men and their work became known, and the laws 
enacted by them filtered among the people, the tem- 
per of the masses has changed; they are learning that 
our institutions are founded in justice, in humanity, 
and the right of the individual to the fullest measure 
of liberty consistent with the good of all; they are 
learning to believe that a nation, founded as ours, 
cannot enslave any people, but must work to secure 
for them the same privileges and advantages that are 
enjoyed by everyone under its flag. I believe a fair 
future lies before these Islands provided Congress 
does not clog the plans of the administration by 
unwise and foolish action, and provided the people 
themselves are not misled by selfish agitators into 
demanding more power than they are fitted to 
exercise. 

Tonight we leave for San Jose, Island of Panay, 



[214] 



XII 

THE SOUTHERN TRIP, CONTINUED 

U. S. Transport Sumner, 

April IS, I go I. 
^T^ODAY was spent at San Jose de Buenavlsta, 
"*■ Province of Antique. We had heard httle of 
the place, and it loomed ahead of us simply as a 
point on the map. To find it, therefore, one of the 
most scenic little spots yet visited, and to receive a 
reception as warm and spectacular as any encoun- 
tered on our trip, was a genuine surprise. The town 
lies in the curve of a wide bay, its coral beach fringed 
with cocoanut palms and backed by high hills. As 
seen from the ship in the fresh glow of morning it 
reminded of some village pictured by poets when 
they dream of Arcadia. 

We were met at the pier by the delegates of the 
different pueblos and by the entire local output. It 
is a sight I never tire of seeing — that crowd of 
mixed peoples, with their alert, brown faces, intent 
upon missing no part of the show. They dearly love 
excitement, and while our contribution to the pro- 
gram seems small, we are the excuse for the per- 
formance and they are happy. A broad road leads 
from the beach to the town ; this we traversed afoot, 

[215] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

forming a sort of " conquering hero " procession. 
As the Commissioners neared the first of a series of 
elaborate arches, some Filipino maidens, hidden in 
the superstructure, scattered a profusion of flowers 
upon them, while a silver-tongued orator voiced a 
tropical welcome. Judge Taft responded In happy 
vein, and the little maidens unloosed a number of 
beribboned doves which fluttered above the crowd 
to Its unrestrained delight. 

In addition to their triumphal arches, the people 
had constructed a Statue of Liberty, patterned after 
a picture of the one on Bedloe Island. It was a 
curious thing, bearing a family likeness to their 
numerous church saints. It had a halo of tin spikes 
about Its head, and a rigid arm held aloft something 
more resembling a bolo than a torch. It was really 
a very creditable effort, however, and furnished a 
happy text later when the "transcendental" nature 
of our visit was being dwelt upon. 

As we are behind schedule, the Commission con- 
cluded its business at one session, which lasted from 
nine till twelve-thirty. General Fullon, who operated 
in this province, and who surrendered two weeks 
ago, came up with us on the Sumner from Hollo and 
was at the meeting. He is a boyish looking fellow, 
more like a student than a military leader. An 
elaborate tiffin was served, but we were obliged to 
forego the banquet and baile arranged for the eve- 
ning. We returned to the transport at five, accom- 
panied by all the able-bodied Inhabitants of the town. 
It was sunset when we sailed, and the rich glow 

[216] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

which painted the waters and the hills left with us a 
memory of San Jose de Buenavista which did not 
belie its name. 



April i6, igoi. 

Today we have been sailing the straits between 
Cebu and Leyte, giving us another of those " breath- 
ing spells," for which we are beginning to thank our 
patron saint. 

The fourteenth and fifteenth were spent at Capiz, 
on the east coast of Panay. We anchored off shore 
early on the morning of the fourteenth, and, as mail 
was expected, Mr. Fergusson and I were commis- 
sioned to find it. The town lies three miles up a 
river, and as our launch neared the landing we 
found the banks black with people — our approach 
being mistaken for that of the Commission. After 
interviewing the president and arranging a public 
meeting for the afternoon we made our escape. Most 
of the party came over after tiffin, some by river and 
others by road. Arrangements had been made to 
lodge and care for eighty people, four houses having 
been emptied to make room for the ladies, the men 
being provided for in the convento. We were com- 
pelled to decline their hospitality, however, tired 
Nature clamoring for the accustomed comforts 
aboard ship. 

The public session was held in the theater build- 
ing and was particularly interesting. At its close a 
Filipino boy of ten delivered a speech in English. 
He had been trained by one of the soldiers, and in 

[217] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

both accent and delivery did splendidly. Judge Taft 
responded, complimenting him highly. It was dark 
when we embarked for the ship, and we were treated 
to a wonderful display of phosphorescence, the 
waves as they broke being tipped with fire. 

We were ashore by nine next morning, and had a 
busy day. Some fifteen of the northern towns 
wanted a separate organization, their cause being 
championed in lively fashion by a Senor Mobo. His 
petition was vehemently contested, the different 
speakers being given free rein for their eloquence. 
As a matter of fact, the request for separation was 
premature, the province having suffered heavily 
through war, rinderpest, and locusts. As we came 
up the river we saw the latter flying in clouds that 
darkened the sun. 

At tiffin nearly a hundred people sat at the table, 
the affair passing off with great, good humor. The 
Commission finished its labors before six, appointing 
Jugo Vidal, Governor, and the versatile Mr. Mobo, 
Secretary. We had planned returning to the boat to 
dress for the evening, but time did not permit. The 
day and evening were hot and sultry, and everybody 
was sticky and uncomfortable. We ate and danced, 
however, and had a good time. Once a dance 
started the musicians stopped only when the floor 
was deserted. Squatted on the floor, they played 
on and on with a persistence and endurance truly 
marvelous. It was midnight when we reached the 
boat, and you can appreciate how we hailed with 
delight the prospect of a whole day at sea. 

[218] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

"" April ly, igoi. 

One year ago today the Hancock sailed out from 
San Francisco harbor with the Commission and 
party aboard. It has been a pretty full three hun- 
dred and sixty-five days for all of us; days good to 
have lived and good to remember. We anticipated 
much that time a year ago, but I doubt If there was 
Imaged to any of us the variety and Interest of what 
has actually transpired. And the end Is not yet. 

We anchored last evening off Cebu, which disputes 
with Hollo the distinction of being the second city 
of the archipelago. We did not go ashore, thus giv- 
ing us a full holiday. A number of small vintas 
(boats) came out to the transport, and as they 
circled about us the women sang native songs to a 
peculiar swaying of the body — their reward being 
the somewhat doubtful privilege of diving for pen- 
nies. When the occupants of four or five vintas — 
men, women, and children — made a simultaneous 
dive there was a jumble of arms, legs, and bodies 
decidedly bewildering. 

We found conditions In Cebu more unsatisfactory 
than in any place visited. It is estimated there are 
about two hundred insurgents in the field, and these 
are allowed to terrorize an Island of half a million, 
practically all of whom desire peace. In his talk to 
the delegates Judge Taft told them It was absurd 
for an island of that size to permit a mere handful of 
men to continue a state of disorder which brought 
nothing but evil in its train; that when the people 
themselves decided that such a condition should cease 

[219] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

it would; that they came before the Commission ask- 
ing a provincial government and the right to govern 
themselves, and yet permitted an insignificant 
minority to overrun them and jeopardize their best 
interests. He said it would be a source of regret to 
the Commission not to grant them a civil govern- 
ment; that we could, if necessary, put a force of men 
on the island and sweep it from end to end, but such 
a step would be deplored. He stated, in effect, that 
it was up to them. 

That evening a banquet and ball were given at the 
"Filipino Club." There are a number of gunboats 
in the harbor, the officers of which attended the din- 
ner; these, with the usual army officers, English and 
Chinese Consuls, the Commission and staffs and the 
Filipino gente fina, made quite a cosmopolitan show- 
ing. The banquet was one of the most pretentious 
affairs we have been up against. To give you an 
idea of it I copy the menu, which was in words and 
figures following, to-wit: 



BILL OF FARE 



1 Oyster soup 

2 Roast turkey 

3 Roast beef 

4 Roast pork 

5 Boiled tongue 

6 Chicken, French style 

7 Oyster pie 

8 Baked fish 

9 Boiled ham, in jelly 
lo Veal pot pie 



II 

12 

13 

14 

15 
16 

17 
18 

19 

20 

[220] 



Beefsteak 
Pork chop 
Veal cutlet 
Fried chicken 
Roast chicken 
Chipped ham 
Fried pigeons 
Cream pie 
Apple pie 
Peach pie 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

21 Pineapple pie 28 Shoe string potatoes 

22 Chocolate cake 29 Sweet corn 

23 Raisin cake 30 Stewed beans 

24 Jelly roll cake 31 Asparagus 

25 Apple pudding 32 Raw tomatoes 

26 Minced potato 33 Green onions 

27 Fried potato 34 Radishes. 

They started at number one, with the intention, 
apparently, of going down the line. This proved 
too strenuous, however, so along about the middle 
they began hurdling, and we finally finished without 
calling an ambulance. There were two long tables, 
seating, possibly, one hundred guests, with a separate 
table at the end, where Judge and Mrs. Taft and 
the wife of the president were seated. Their chairs 
were at least five feet apart, making conversation 
impossible. They simply sat there in solitary state, 
contemplating that terrible bill of fare. To continue 
smiling under such circumstances must be work. We 
left at twelve, being accompanied to the wharf by a 
mounted escort, there being some rumor of a hostile 
demonstration. 



April 18, igoi. 
This has been another of those days which go to 
make history. From morning until night the Com- 
mission threshed over with the people of Cebu the 
question of their preparedness for civil government. 
Finally — though with many misgivings — the wish 
of the people was gratified and a government organ- 

[221] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

ized. Don Julio Llorente, one of the Supreme Court 
Judges at Manila, but a native of Cebu, was ap- 
pointed Governor, which pleased the people greatly. 
Chief Justice Arellano, who had returned to Manila 
from Iloilo, rejoined us here. He came to submit 
to the Commission the draft of a proposed procla- 
mation prepared by Aguinaldo. To Arellano belongs 
largely the credit of influencing Aguinaldo to take 
the oath of allegiance, his return to Manila being 
almost coincident with Aguinaldo's capture. The 
latter had been so long in the bosque that he was 
completely out of touch with events. His first Inquiry 
upon reaching Manila was for Mabini — who is now 
in Guam — and his next for Arellano. Arellano 
spent several days with him, explaining the real situ- 
ation and telling of the plans of our government on 
behalf of the Filipino people. One by one he went 
over the laws enacted by the Commission since its 
coming, and particularly the Municipal and Pro- 
vincial laws and the school bill. When the full 
import of these dawned upon Aguinaldo, and he 
became convinced not only that our purposes were 
altruistic, but that the great majority of his people 
wanted peace, he succumbed, and the oath was 
administered him by Arellano. He then drafted his 
proclamation, a copy of which I enclose herewith : 

To the Filipino people: 

I believe that I am not in error in presuming that 
the unhappy fate to which my adverse fortune has 
led me Is not a surprise to those who have been 
familiar day by day with the progress of the war. 

[222 ] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

The lessons thus taught, the full meaning of which 
has but recently come to my knowledge, suggest to 
me with irresistible force that the complete termina- 
tion of hostilities and a lasting peace are not only 
desirable, but absolutely essential to the welfare of 
the Philippines. 

The Filipinos have never been dismayed by their 
weakness, nor have they faltered in following the 
path pointed out by their fortitude and courage. 
The time has come, however, in which they find 
their advance along this path impeded by an irre- 
sistible force — a force which, while it restrains 
them, yet enlightens the mind and opens another 
course by presenting to them the cause of peace. 
This cause has been joyfully embraced by a majority 
of our fellow countrymen, who are already united 
around the glorious and sovereign banner of the 
United States. In this banner they repose their 
trust, in the belief that under its protection our 
people will attain all the promised liberties which 
they are even now beginning to enjoy. 

The country has declared unmistakably In favor 
of peace: so be it. Enough of blood; enough of 
tears and desolation. This wish cannot be ignored 
by the men still in arms if they are animated by no 
other desire than to serve this noble people which 
has thus clearly manifested its will. So also do I 
respect this will, now that it is known to me, and 
after mature deliberation resolutely proclaim to th-e 
world that I cannot refuse to heed the voice of a 
people longing for peace, nor the lamentations of 
thousands of families yearning to see their dear ones 
In the enjoyment of the liberty promised by the 
generosity of the great American nation. 

By acknowledging and accepting the sovereignty 
of the United States throughout the entire Archipel- 

[223] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

ago, as I now do without any reservation whatso- 
ever, I believe that I am serving thee, my beloved 
country. May happiness be thine I 

Emilio Aguinaldo. 

It strikes me that when this proclamation is pub- 
lished some of these Filipino "Juntas" now living 
on the fat of the land in Hongkong, Madrid, Paris, 
and other places, draining good money from a de- 
luded and impoverished people, will have to go out 
of business. It should likewise put a quietus on some 
of our long-range critics at home, who pretend to 
speak with authority on a matter entirely outside 
their knowledge. 

At the close of the meeting Arellano gave a talk 
to the people. Our sessions with them thus far had 
awakened little enthusiasm ; they needed stirring up, 
and there is no man in the islands better fitted to do 
this than Arellano. I have already referred to his 
speeches, and the fire he is able to put Into them. 
This was an occa'sion of a lifetime and he rose to it. 
He spoke of the fact that It was on the Island of 
Cebu the great Magellan first landed, and where 
religious Instruction was first given the people; he 
asked them If their Island, the first In arts and indus- 
try, was to be the last to accept the blessings of peace 
and prosperity held out by the great American 
nation; he referred to his talks with Aguinaldo, 
their leader, and his action when the light came to 
him. He played upon them with all the skill of a 
natural orator and all the fervor that comes from 
earnestness and a conviction of the truth of his mes- 

[224] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

sage. It was growing dark throughout the theater, 
and when he finished, and, with arms uplifted, im- 
plored them in the name of their unhappy country 
to unite for peace, many men in the audience were 
weeping. He had reached the people. 

We were urged to remain over for another dinner, 
but we felt our duty accomplished and returned to 
the boat. Our reception at Cebu was a sort of con- 
tinuous performance. The Commission did not take 
a step in its streets but they were preceded and fol- 
lowed by a squad of native police, with an ever- 
present band In attendance. I have referred so 
often, however, to this matter of arches and bands, 
banquets and bailes, processions and receptions, that 
I have no doubt they are becoming monotonous to 
you. To us, however, they are but the frame of the 
picture. 



Jpril 20, igoi. 
Tagbllaran, Island of Bohol, was the next number 
on our repertoire. We found conditions here even 
more unsettled than in Cebu, though the people were 
equally insistent that they be granted provincial gov- 
ernment. Thirty-one out of the thirty-four towns of 
the island were represented, and they argued that 
if civil rule was Inaugurated the few hundred people 
now In the hills could be Induced to come In. It was 
evident, however, that they stood in fear of Pedro 
Sanson, the Insurgent leader, who, because of his 
acts, had been declared an outlaw. They wished 

[225] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

the Commission to promise him a pardon should he 
surrender, but this they declined to do. 

It Is a case again where a few hundred men with 
rifles and bolos are able to terrorize the great mass 
of the people and thus retard the restoration of 
peace and industry, so necessary to the welfare of 
all. These so-called " Insurgents," responsible for 
such a condition, display their patriotism by robbing 
and maltreating their own people and thus Intimi- 
dating them Into furnishing food and supplies. Their 
"campaigning" is reduced entirely to escaping cap- 
ture by our troops and to taking an occasional shot 
from ambush when the chances are all their way. It 
Is no longer a revolution based upon any conception 
of liberty or public service, but rather the dominating 
Influence of a few leaders able to Impress their will 
upon an Ignorant and lawless following. After go- 
ing Into the situation quite thoroughly, the Commis- 
sion decided to try the experiment of extending civil 
government to the Island, making the proviso, how- 
ever, that If lawlessness continued, military rule 
would be restored with all its rigor. 

We found Tagbilaran Itself a charming place. It 
lies some two miles up a picturesque strait which 
separates Bohol from the small Island of Palacao. 
Our meeting were held in a room of the convento, 
which, like most of these old church buildings, has 
a beautiful site. This one commands a full sweep 
of the strait, with green, wooded hills to either side 
and the blue ocean beyond. As I looked out over 
the scene the thought came to me again of the life 

[226] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

those old Friars must have led when they were 
lords and masters of all this fair domain, for never 
has king or czar ruled with more absolute or despotic 
power than theirs. 

We partook of the usual banquet, but returned to 
the transport for the night. The trip was made 
by boat down the strait, the officers fearing a pos- 
sible ambush should we return by road. Our craft 
was pretty well crowded and moved something like 
a carabao, but it was not unpleasant. Our experi- 
ence next morning, however, was different. It began 
raining immediately after we started and the awn- 
ings of the cutter were soon leaking like a sieve. We 
were packed together like unto the proverbial sar- 
dines, and all got gloriously wet. Quite a sea was 
running in the bay and our little boat took on con- 
siderable motion. Boarding the ship, where we 
caught the wash of the waves, was a precarious 
business, and was watched with anxiety by those on 
board. It was a case of stepping from the launch 
to the gangway at the precise psychological moment 
when the two were on a level. Fortunately, all of 
us negotiated it safely, and shortly afterward were 
under way for Tacloban, Island of Leyte, which we 
reach early tomorrow. 



April 21, I go I. 
Today is Sunday, though there is very little to 
distinguish one day from another on this trip. In 

[227] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

fact, we seldom know anything but the day of the 
month. There is no observable difference in the 
attitude of the people, they being as ready to hold 
meetings, or to have banquets and hailes, on Sunday 
as any other day. 

The Island of Leyte, while one of the last to join 
the insurrection, has possibly put our troops to more 
trouble than any of the other islands. It imme- 
diately adjoins the Island of Samar, scarcely a rifle 
shot separating the two for a distance of over 
twenty-live miles. This enables the worst charac- 
ters of each, when hard pushed, to find refuge on 
the other, making it difficult to hunt them down. At 
present Leyte is fairly pacified — Samar less so. 

Our sailing master. Captain Lynam, is a cautious 
old tar, and despite assurances of a good channel 
practically up to Tacloban, persisted in anchoring 
some five miles out and around a point. As we are 
a bit ahead of schedule, Mr. Fergusson and I were 
given the launch to do some scouting. When near 
the town we met General Hughes, together with 
Colonel Murray and Major Allen of the post, com- 
ing out to meet us. We took them aboard and 
returned to the transport, sending word that the 
Commission would be ashore at 2 130. 

Notwithstanding Leyte has suffered much from 
the twin evils, war and plague, neither time nor 
expense have been spared in the preparations for our 
reception. The landing pier — over one hundred 
yards long — was festooned and arched with palms 
and bunting and a great throng of people followed 

[228,1 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

the carriages to the tribunal. We found the town 
scrupulously clean, our troops having given the 
people their first lesson In good roads and sanita- 
tion. Our afternoon session was livened by an ad- 
dress of welcome by the president of Polo, whose 
flowery Spanish put him into a class apart. He spent 
half his time apologizing for his unfitness for the 
task appointed him, and the other half eulogizing 
the Commission and telling of the honor conferred 
upon the island by our presence. He had the gal- 
leries packed on his '' Vivas," and they went off with 
a bang. As a freak he came next to the wild-eyed 
orator of Tayabas. 

We had expected to return aboard after the meet- 
ing, but ran foul of the eat-and-dance proposition as 
usual. Our party was small, and the ladies had on 
their "rainy-day" clothes, but as the Commission 
was to leave the next afternoon, it was decided to 
stay over. After dinner, which consisted of the 
usual fifty-seven varieties, we danced the Rigodon, 
had a native dance, a waltz and a two-step, and then 
broke away. 

The ride to the transport was made In the launch 
and cutter and we had scarcely left the pier when It 
began raining. The awnings were not up, and we 
had no other protection. Getting wet cuts little 
figure In this climate, however, and that five-mile 
ride through the night in the low easy cutter, the 
warm rain falling and the water beneath so near you 
could trail your hand In the phosphorescent glow, 
was a delightful one. 

[229] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

April 22, igoi. 

Our schedule contemplated going by transport 
from Tacloban to Catbalogan, the capital of Samar, 
the route leading through the narrow strait separat- 
ing the two islands. Captain Lynam, however, re- 
fused to risk the Sumner on such a cruise, and it 
was arranged to make the round trip on the Chur- 
ruca, a small coasting vessel chartered by the army. 
There was considerable discussion as to whether the 
ladies should come along. Absolutely nothing was 
known of the accommodations at Catbalogan, our 
latest information being that the place was being 
shot into daily by the insurgents. There was little 
sleeping room on the Churruca, and we expected to 
be out two days. The vote, therefore, was against 
the ladies. Their hopes died hard, but they were 
somewhat appeased by the promise of Colonel Mur- 
ray to take them up the first twenty miles and back 
on the morrow. 

A provisional government was organized for 
Leyte at the morning session, and at two o'clock the 
Commissioners, the various secretaries, and four 
newspapermen boarded the Churruca for the ride 
up the strait to Catbalogan. It was a memorable 
ride. The scenery is a blend of the Thousand 
Islands of the St. Lawrence and the never-to-be- 
forgotten wonder of the Inland Sea of Japan. For 
a time we would sail almost within touch of either 
bank, the hills rising abruptly from the water's edge, 
faced with deepest green ; then the strait would widen 
and small, green islands would dot its surface, with 

[ 230 ] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

here and there low-lying little coves with nipa houses 
and minute patches of cultivated ground; then there 
would be vistas between the islands — other land 
rising far in the distance, capped by gray rain clouds 
or blotted almost completely by showers. Occasion- 
ally we would pass islands crowned by old, ruined 
forts, about whose tops luxuriant vegetation flour- 
ished like great umbrellas. 

As we clustered about the after deck of our little 
steamer the scene was one which made real to me 
all I had dreamed or seen pictured of life amid far 
tropic seas. Our party was dressed in white or 
khaki, some with helmets and others with the light 
straw hats of the country; from the cane chairs and 
white awnings to the last article of clothing the one 
idea of coolness had been considered. Some smoked, 
some read old magazines and papers, others talked 
or slept, while near to hand hung great bunches of 
delicious fruit tempting in their ripeness. It was 
five hours in which to be lazy and forget; in which 
to live in the beauty of the scene about us, and to 
imagine that its peace and quiet enveloped the whole 
wide world; to believe that back of those hills there 
were no men who sought our lives, or over whose 
future destiny questions were presenting which taxed 
the minds of our greatest statesmen. We passed 
out of the strait in time to see the sky light up with 
the rich glow of evening, and to see the blue water 
and the long stretch of palm-clad coast reflect back 
its glory. 

On reaching Catbalogan we found the place had 

[231] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

been fired into early in the day, and that conditions 
were very unsettled. Thus far no active steps have 
been taken to crush this disorderly element. There 
are but seven companies of soldiers on the island, 
which is the third largest of the group. These sol- 
diers seldom leave the garrisoned towns. Under 
such conditions it avails little that a majority of the 
people want peace, standing, as they do, in mortal 
terror of their own countrymen. The fear in which 
they hold everything resembling a gun passes belief. 
It is said as a truth that a whole village can be ter- 
rorized and its people robbed and despoiled by one 
man with a gun; it is even said that it is done without 
a gun, the man simply shooting firecrackers from 
what resembles a gun and then throwing rocks 
against the houses. It is doubtful if peace will come 
here until the place is swept from end to end. We 
slept on board the boat, cots and mattresses being 
spread on deck. 



April 2S, 1 90 1. 
But seven towns were represented at the public 
session this morning. Some of the speakers thought 
the organization of a provincial government might 
help p'acification ; others felt the time was not ripe. 
It was the wish of all that more troops might be 
sent, and this was promised. They desire peace, but 
the men in the hills, using the war as a pretext, pre- 
vent it. One of the speakers, himself an ex-colonel 
of insurgents, stated that those now out were worth- 

[232] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

less characters — men who have never earned an 
honest living and had nothing to gain by coming in; 
that those of the people who wanted peace could not 
deal with them, as their staying out had nothing to 
do with Filipino liberty and independence. He said 
that if this element was once destroyed, and the 
people of the village trusted with guns, they would 
take care of themselves thereafter. I believe the 
time will shortly come when this can be done. 

Judge Taft in his talk stated that the insurrection 
had collapsed, and gave a review of existing condi- 
tions in the islands. As his summary shows clearly 
what progress we are making, I quote from my notes 
as follows: 

General Trias, the insurgent general second in 
command, has surrendered and is now occupied in 
sending his subordinates to secure the surrender of 
other officers in Luzon and other islands. Gen- 
eral Geronimo, General Pablo Tecson, and General 
Simon Tescon, the commanders in Zambales and 
Batan, have all surrendered. The leader of the 
insurrection, General Aguinaldo, has been captured 
and has taken the oath of allegiance and issued a 
proclamation advising the Filipinos that their only 
chance of happiness is peace under American sov- 
ereignty. The people of the Archipelago have 
begun to enjoy the blessings of peace. General Ful- 
lon, in command of the forces in Antique, surren- 
dered, together with 200 rifles, some three weeks 
ago. General Diocno, commanding in Capiz, was 
wounded and captured and his forces dispersed. He 
is now urging his subordinates to surrender. Gen- 
eral Capistrano, commanding the forces in Min- 

[233] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

danao, has surrendered, together with 1 80 rifles and 
80 shotguns. Nobody now remains out but a few 
ladrones. General Delgado has been appointed by 
the Commission civil governor of Iloilo, and now, 
instead of being an insurrecto general, is a civil gov- 
ernor under the authority of the United States. Gen- 
eral Fullon met the Commission at Iloilo and went 
with it to San Jose, where the government of An- 
tique was organized. Other generals and colonels 
have surrendered in Luzon whose names are too 
numerous to mention. Two thousand five hundred 
rifles were captured or surrendered during the months 
of January and February of this year, more than 
half of which were surrendered. Between the ist 
of March and the ist of April 4,000 rifles have been 
surrendered or captured, the great majority of which 
were surrendered. Having said this much, it would 
seem entirely reasonable to repeat the remark with 
which I began — that the insurrection has collapsed. 
It is not too much to say that the great majority of 
the Filipino people are deeply rejoiced at the fact. 
Three years of war have taught them that peace is 
absolutely necessary to their prosperity, and their 
experience with the efforts of the United States to 
bring about civil government and prosperity, short 
as it has been, has satisfied them that that is the best 
solution of the problem. 

From the number of " Generals " in the above list 
it might be imagined several army corps had surren- 
dered. It should be said, however, that as most of 
these generals were self-styled, and lacked the 
formality of a commission, the list is very elastic. 

It was decided, in view of the situation disclosed, 
not to establish a civil government in Samar at this 

[234] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

time. We had planned remaining until tomorrow, 
but as our work was finished, we started down the 
strait for Tacloban after two, seeing again that won- 
derful panorama of island, water, and shore. The 
current was with us and we reached the Sumner in 
time for a late dinner. 



April 2^, I go I. 
We left Tacloban early yesterday morning, 
headed for Albay, in southern Luzon. We had a 
full twenty-four hours at sea, and though the ground 
swell of the Pacific claimed its victims, the day 
proved one of pure enjoyment to most. When we 
came on deck this morning we were steaming slowly 
down the blue reaches of the Bay of Albay. To 
right and left were precipitous headlands, covered 
with dense forest growth, while in the far fore- 
ground, gleaming white amid its groves of bamboo 
and palm, lay the old town of Legaspi. Above all 
these, however — sweeping upward from the sea 
in lines said to form the most perfect mountain cone 
In the world — towered the great volcanic peak of 
Mayon. It is an inspiring and beautiful sight, with 
little In its present aspect to remind of the grim 
record of devastation and death which marks Its 
history. As late as 1894 It burled a dozen villages 
beneath Its lava, and the drift of Its ashes reached 
Manila. In 1897 It burst forth again, the lava flow 
reaching the sea and working widespread havoc to 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

life and property. Today, with the exception of 
here and there a brown streak marking the path of 
some molten river, it is clothed in a mantle of green, 
its top lost amid a white bank of floating clouds. 
Occasionally, as these drifted aside, we could see a 
broad cap of smoke rolling lazily from the crater, 
telling of hidden and imprisoned fires within. 

The people of Albay are Bicols, speaking a dis- 
tinct dialect. Like most of the provinces to the 
south, the insurrection here was fanned and led by 
Tagalogs. The people are apparently tired of it 
and them, however, and ask that every Tagalog in 
the province be expelled. The town of Albay, the 
former capital, was burned to the ground by the 
insurgents — the fate of most of the towns here- 
abouts. In our sessions with the peopl-e we found 
that war and rinderpest had left them sorely 
stricken, though they seem to have a streak of 
optimism in their nature which buoys them up under 
the most trying circumstances. 



April 26, igoi. 
A session at nine today and a lunch at one com- 
pleted our labors in Legaspi. While the message 
we are delivering the people is growing somewhat 
familiar to us, we find sufficient variety in local ques- 
tions and local character to keep up interest. As 
a general thing our sessions wind up with a speech 
or speeches by some of the Filipinos accompanying 

[236] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

us. These are always worth while, particularly 
those of Dr. Tavera, President of the Federal Party. 
Scarcely a day passes but that he is called upon to 
give a talk, and he invariably says the right thing 
in the right way. In speaking to the people today, 
he said the Partido Federal was continuing the insur- 
rection, but by legal rather than by forcible means ; 
that they were contending for the same rights as 
those set out by the Malolos Congress — the liberty 
of the individual; he pointed out to them that inde- 
pendence did not mean liberty; that with indepen- 
dence the Filipinos would simply change the despot- 
ism of Spain for a domestic tyranny as bad or worse; 
that they could but follow the system with which 
they were familiar, and, being untrained, their mis- 
takes would be greater; that the great American 
nation would save them from themselves, and pre- 
vent their furnishing to the world the spectacle of 
the Central and South American republics, which, 
though independent, labored under a slavery worse 
than that of their former masters; he said they had 
lost nothing; that the sun pictured upon the Filipino 
flag was replaced by the sun of liberty which now 
shone over the islands; that the colors of their ban- 
ner found a counterpart in those of America, and 
they could look forward to the day when another 
star, the star of the Philippines, would be added to 
those many on that azure field which represented 
States " free but not independent." It is hard to 
estimate the good Dr. Tavera has done on this trip. 
His speeches have interpreted in terms of local 

[237] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

understanding the purposes of the Commission, and 
his closer intimacy with the people has rendered 
the information he has been able to gather of tre- 
mendous value in the appointment of officers and 
the handling of local questions. 

The Commission has also been fortunate in an- 
other particular, and this not only on its present 
trip, but in all its dealings with these people, and 
that is in its Spanish Secretary and interpreter, Mr. 
A. W. Fergusson. It is doubtful if he has an equal 
in this regard In the world. As interpreter and 
translator for the American members of the Paris, 
Peace Commission his work was of such high char- 
acter that he was officially designated by the Spanish 
members of the Commission to act for them as well.. 
Large of stature, and with a perfect command o£ 
Spanish, he has the gift of vivid facial and bodily 
expression peculiar to races of Latin origin and 
training, combined with a truly marvelous faculty 
for moulding the thought of a speaker into forms to 
please and enlighten. It Is a common expression 
among us that Fergusson can take the rudimentary 
ideas of some halting orator and dress them out in 
such happy guise that their own parent stands aston- 
ished at the offspring of his brain. This means much 
in dealing with a people to whom the manner of 
expression oftlmes means much more than what 
is actually said. When the record of this trip is 
written the great work done by Fergusson and 
Tavera should have Its due meed of well-deserved 
praise. 

[238] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

At Sea, April 2g, igoi. 

We are beginning to feel now that we are destined 
to organize provincial governments the rest of our 
days. There never seems to have been a time when 
we were not catching launches, listening to native 
bands, talking and eating in over-crowded halls, and 
dancing RIgodons. Everyone moves into his ap- 
pointed place with a click, and the wheels go round 
rhythmically. In truth, though, the strain Is begin- 
ning to tell a bit. Today little less than a cry of 
"Fire" or "Man overboard" could get action out 
of anyone aboard. We have possibly earned this 
right to be unsociable, however, as It was three 
o'clock this morning when we returned to the trans- 
port, after a strenuous absence of two days. 

After quitting Albay, the next point billed was 
Nueva Caceres, Province of Ambos Camarlnes, 
which lies twenty-four miles inland on the Bicol 
River. We anchored some ten miles off shore, our 
old captain being In a fever of anxiety lest he run 
aground. He remarked that If he got out of the 
next two places safely, he would then have only 
"the ordinary perils of the sea" to contend with. 
We had telegraphed for a boat to take us up the 
river and found the Serranto, a double-decked 
launch, awaiting us. We left the Sumner shortly 
after midday and reached Nueva Caceres about 
five, the river ride proving a treat. Work had 
apparently stopped In the province, as most of the 
inhabitants were at the landing to meet us. 

Among the banners displayed was one — "Viva 

[239] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

la Comision — fuera los Frailes." We have found 
this antagonism to the Friars quite general, and the 
Commission is frequently asked whether they are 
to be returned to the parishes. The answer is that 
the matter rests entirely with the people; that the 
Frailes would not return unless requested and would 
receive no state support; that they would have no 
voice in the government, and would stand on exactly 
the same footing as other citizens. 

As we are behind schedule, we drove directly to 
headquarters, where a meeting was held, it being 
after seven when we adjourned. We were distrib- 
uted about town wherever lodgment could be had, 
Mr. Carpenter and I falling to one Captain Capps, 
who, with a Portuguese hemp-buyer, runs a mess in 
a small nipa house. A Filipino banquet had been 
arranged for the evening, but we preferred the 
simple fare provided by our hosts. There was a 
baile later, which we attended. For one of the two- 
steps I drew a Mestiza maiden who danced divinely, 
and when I told her (the usual thing) that the mem- 
ory of that dance would linger with me through life, 
it was not altogether a lie. 

The next day was a long one. We had planned 
starting for the Sumner immediately after the morn- 
ing session, but discovered when too late that to 
cross the bar before two o'clock A. M. we should 
have left at noon. It is doubtful, however, if this 
could have been done, as the Commission found the 
situation here considerably Involved. I have had 
occasion to refer several times to the failure of many 

[240] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

of the "military" to appreciate that their work, no 
less than ours, has for its object the winning the 
good will of the Filipinos and restoring civil rule. 
During this trip the contrast between competent and 
incompetent commanders has been brought home to 
us most forcibly. In those provinces fortunate in 
having commanding officers broad enough to realize 
that martial law is not the normal condition of soci- 
ety substantial progress has been made in securing 
native confidence and cooperation. On the other 
hand, where such officers have made no attempt to 
get into sympathetic touch with the people, and have 
treated them as so much cattle to be herded for a 
month or a year, we have found conditions most dis- 
couraging. Ambos Camarines is one of the unfor- 
tunate provinces. The natives, being BIcols, are 
naturally pacific, and with proper treatment much 
could be made of them. Instead, they have been 
antagonized at every turn; promises have been made 
and never kept; their houses have been taken at the 
whim of officers so desiring, and our soldiery turned 
loose upon the community with little restraint or 
discipline. It is a situation aggravated by the pres- 
ence of several companies of colored troops, the 
sending of which to these Islands is a mistake. The 
abuses they commit among a people taught to suffer 
at the hands of those in authority had best not be 
described. The Filipino Is peculiarly sensitive to 
the ordinary courtesies and amenities of life, and 
resents this subjection to the negro, whom he regards 
as an inferior. 

[241] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

It developed that certain officers had an ambition 
to be appointed to provincial office under the new 
law, with the result that factions among the natives 
had been fanned to the point where it was impolitic 
for the Commission to decide between them. As its 
appointee for Governor was only provisional, it took 
what was considered the least objectionable course 
and appointed an American. 

We had arranged to leave the river landing at 
nine o'clock, but it was nearly ten when we got under 
way for the long ride to the transport. It had been 
a hot, hard day, and few of us had slept much the 
night before. This doubtless prevented our appre- 
ciating as we should the river trip, though a perfect 
moon, lighting up a shifting panorama of tropical 
landscape, did what it could to awaken enthusiasm. 
We reached the mouth of the river at midnight, 
where we anchored nearly two hours before attempt- 
ing the bar. By this time even the most cheerful 
had succumbed. The night had turned quite chilly, 
which added to our discomfort in trying to get a 
little sleep. We boarded the transport at three, a 
tired, used-up crowd. 



SoRSOGON, April so, igoi. 
Today was spent in Sorsogon. We are two days 
behind schedule, and the elaborate preparations pre- 
pared by the townspeople had suffered from rain and 
storm. They felt quite badly about it, as also that 
many who had come to meet us were unable to 

[242] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

remain. We found the temper of the people very 
different from that encountered in Nueva Caceres. 
Here there is a splendid set of officers, who have 
the respect and confidence of the entire community. 
The province is completely pacified, and it is said 
an American can pass unmolested through any part 
of it. Our reception was enthusiastic, the only draw- 
back being the place of meeting, which was close and 
hot. This has been one of our great difficulties — 
finding audience rooms sufficiently large and well- 
ventilated to meet our needs. In many places the 
public buildings have been burned, and we have 
held our sessions in private houses, as was done 
here. Today the heat and the pace we are going 
proved too much for me, and I collapsed in the 
midst of my reporting. LeRoy took a shift at it 
until I was fanned back to normal again. 

As our good captain was anxious to get away by 
daylight, we were compelled to forego the festivities 
prepared for the evening, much to the disappoint- 
ment of the people. While waiting for our launch a 
triumphal car, bearing aloft a Filipino maiden typi- 
fying peace, was borne along the shore. The maid, 
with her flowing hair and rich robes, holding proudly 
on high the flag of our common country, made quite 
an Impression. 



BoAc, Marinduque, May i, igoi. 
Three years ago today the guns of Dewey's fleet 
tolled the requiem of Spanish power in the Philip- 

[243] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

pines. It was a day, as Judge Taft stated this morn-' 
ing, pregnant with fate both for the Filipino people 
and for the United States. In that day the people 
of these islands leaped from the eighteenth century 
to the twentieth, exchanging the sovereignty of 
Spain, with its mediaeval institutions, for that of the 
most modern of the nations — entering upon a career 
measured only by their capacity to absorb our civili- 
zation. For us it opened the door to international 
politics; it gave us a broader part in the play of 
nations — the drama whose stage is the world. That 
this will be better for us, will more widely develop 
both the material and mental resources of our people 
than the provincialism which would have us mill 
forever in the same old groove, I sincerely believe. 

This is our second visit to Marinduque. In 
March we promised the people a separate govern- 
ment provided we found the island free from insur- 
rection on our return. On going ashore today we 
found they had met their contract. General Abad, 
the last of the insurgent leaders, surrendered two 
weeks ago and was present at the meeting. I have 
already told what a charming spot Boac is, and it 
was almost like going home to see it again. 

At the close of our session a farewell address was 
delivered by Sr. Nepomuceno, the newly ap- 
pointed Provincial Secretary, who thanked the Com- 
mission for establishing civil government in Marin- 
duque and for its work in looking to the political 
and material regeneration of the Islands. He spoke 
of the struggle of the Filipino people to achieve 

[244] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

their political rights, and rejoiced that their des- 
tinies were now linked with a government founded 
upon the equal rights of all. Judge Taft's reply 
states so well our aim here, and the conditions which 
will measure our success, that I quote therefrom as 
follows : 

Allusion was made by the gentleman who has so 
eloquently addressed the Commission to the great 
Filipino patriot, Rizal, and his love of liberty. We 
believe, and, I hope, believe justly, that under the 
sovereignty of the United States the Filipino people 
can acquire all those liberties which Rizal prized. 
I am reminded by one of my colleagues, and I desire 
to remind you, that today three years ago was fought 
the battle of Manila Bay. How pregnant with fate 
was that victory, both for the Filipino people and 
the United States. Civil liberty a government can 
offer to a people, but whether such liberty results in 
bringing happiness and prosperity must depend upon 
the people themselves. The government can offer 
public schools and education to the people, but the 
people must turn that education to the betterment 
and improvement of their own condition. You must 
watch your officers, you must have in mind the public 
weal, you must insist that your officials serve only 
the public good and not their personal gain. With- 
out making invidious comparisons, the truth of his- 
tory must be stated, that in the three hundred years 
of civilized rule in these islands the standard of pub- 
lic honesty has not been maintained as it should have 
been. I do not claim for the Americans absolute 
honesty. That we have dishonest men among us 
and dishonest public officials goes without saying, 
but I do say that the standard of official honesty 
which we hope to introduce here is high, and that 

[ 245 ] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

being introduced here it means the beginning of a 
prosperous and happy government. When you find 
a public official, whether he be an American or a 
Filipino, who is false to his trust and is lining his 
pockets with the money of the people, know that he 
is a worse criminal than the man who steals your 
cattle and enters your house and steals your goods. 
Pursue him as you would a criminal and put him 
behind the prison bars, where he belongs. Let no 
good nature growing out of the traditions of a for- 
mer government prevent you from regarding this 
crime as it should be regarded. If you find dishon- 
esty in an American official, know that the Amer- 
icans who are responsible for this government would 
rather put a dishonest American in prison than a 
Filipino or a man of any other race. 

Shortly after seven we M^eighed anchor for Batan- 
gas, our last stop. 



May 2, igoi. 

Batangas, the final number on our repertoire, 
proved a hard finish. We landed on an open beach, 
and then drove a mile and a half through a swirling 
cloud of dust — the Commissioners perched in an 
open wagon like unto those used for delivering gro- 
ceries in the States. Everything ^wroM?^ was parched 
and burned, and we found Batangas itself in ruins. 
The province is not completely pacified, and we saw 
everywhere evidences of the destruction wrought by 
war. 

Our meeting was held in a wide corridor tempo- 
rarily roofed with green stuff, giving it an appearance 

[246] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

of coolness altogether belied by the thermometer. 
Judge Taft, whose energy continues unabated, ex- 
plained once more the scope of the provincial and 
municipal acts, and succeeded in imparting some of 
his enthusiasm to a rather undemonstrative audi- 
ence. An amusing feature of most of our meetings 
with these people is their slowness to appreciate a 
joke — particularly when sprung at a public gather- 
ing. A meeting with the Commission is to them a 
very solemn affair, and their effort to apply literally 
some of Judge Taft's lighter saUies has been great. 
One of the speakers today, discussing the age limit 
for tax purposes, said he thought it should be fifty- 
five years, as a man was old at that age and should 
rest. As three of the Commissioners are beyond 
this limit. Judge Taft remarked, with his usual genial 
smile, that this question of age was a rather sensitive 
one to certain members of the Commission. The 
speaker looked grieved, and said his statement did 
not apply to those who had "lived well," whereupon 
Judge Taft surveyed himself and his heavy-weight 
associates and replied that it was evident some of 
them had lived well. At this the poor man collapsed 
utterly. 

Somewhat of a surprise was sprung on us by the 
appointment of Sr. Felix M. Roxas as Governor. 
Senor Roxas is a member of our party and my seat- 
mate at table, having made the entire trip as corre- 
spondent of La Democracia, the organ of the Par- 
tido Federal. He is liked by everyone, and a better 
choice could not have been made. His job will prove 

[247] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

no sinecure, however, as there are numerous factions 
in the province, and its unsettled condition makes the 
wisdom of civil organization at this time doubtful. 

We returned to the boat to dress for the regula- 
tion evening banquet and baile. After the hot day 
and dusty ride, many of the crowd shied at another 
trip ashore. Others nerved themselves to it by the 
thought that it was the last call, and because they 
felt it was due our companion, Sr. Roxas. The 
banquet was served by a Manila caterer and proved 
exceptionally good. A slight hitch occurred at the 
ball. It is usual to open such functions with the 
" Rigodon," but some of the younger officers, smit- 
ten by the charms of certain of our number, started 
with a waltz. Word was passed by Dr. Tavera 
that the next would be the " Rigodon " and partners 
were engaged. When some of these were on the 
floor one of the officers directed the musicians to 
play a two-step; they started to do so, but were 
again stopped and told to proceed with the Rigodon. 
This was again countermanded by the officer, and 
the two-step proceeded. 



Manila, May 5, igoi. 
The "Southern Trip" is ended. At 10:30 A. M. 
we took our last launch ride, making a landing this 
time at the office of the Captain of the Port, Manila. 
The crowd and the bands were there, but they had 
no voice in prescribing our movements or preparing 

[248] 



THE PHILIPPINE <:OMMISSION 

our meals. We scattered like a lot of homing 
pigeons, glad to have shared in such a journey and 
yet glad to take up our Manila life again. 

Our experiences and impressions are still too new 
to be properly appraised. That such another tour 
will ever be made is doubtful; certainly not of this 
magnitude, or of a character to awaken the same 
response from the people. To us and to them it 
marks a crisis In our occupation of the islands, giv- 
ing, as it does, permanent form to our policy and 
setting a measure upon the political future of the 
islands. How far the spirit of the laws enacted by 
us are appreciated, or the scope of our purposes real- 
ized, remains a question. Our visit, if it has done 
anything, should have brought home to the people 
the democratic nature of our institutions and the 
perfect frankness, fairness, and freedom from cant 
of those entrusted with authority in Philippine 
affairs. That they exaggerate the immediate ben- 
efits of civil government and the effect of granting 
them a participation therein is doubtless true. They 
are too inclined to look to public officials and to 
legislative enactments for panaceas for every ill 
than to depend upon their own industry and initia- 
tive. Their present enthusiasm at release from mili- 
tary exactions is apt to suffer a reaction when they 
find that the problem of gaining a successful liveli- 
hood, and of adjusting themselves to the loss suf- 
fered through years of warfare, still remain to be 
solved. They are a volatile people, easily led, easily 
swayed by passing emotions and influences, and lack- 

[249] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

ing that true stability of character which lies at the 
base of popular government. It is but natural to 
expect there will be more or less trouble before the 
machinery gets to running smoothly. As is the case 
with most oppressed peoples, there is danger that the 
new liberties suddenly thrust upon them will be 
abused rather than appreciated at their true value. 
They have a great desire to learn, however; they 
want schools and English teachers, and will prove 
apt pupils, so far, at least, as outward forms are 
concerned. Taken along broad lines, the impres- 
sions gained from our intimate association with them 
during the past months have been favorable, and 
the prospects for the future are encouraging. 



[250] 



XIII 

IGOROTE LAND 

Manila, May i6, igoi. 
^TpHE days since our return have been busy ones. 
-^ A central civil government is to be installed 
July first, and there is much legislation to be gotten 
through in the meantime. It is hoped also to organ- 
ize the remaining provinces of Luzon before that 
date, though I don't see how it is to be done. The 
Commission is in almost constant public or executive 
Session, with the task of preparing proposed laws 
and attending to a flood of detail matters when it 
can. The early apathy of the public has altogether 
disappeared, and everybody is now disposed to offer 
multitudinous suggestions as to how the government 
should be organized and run. As it is the policy of 
the Commission to give every budding statesman a 
try-out, the result is much loss of time, with a quite 
unsatisfactory harvest, though occasionally some 
valuable hint is gleaned. 

The weather is hot again, reminding of those first 
days when we sweltered and doubted. If our pace 
has told In flagging energy and lessened vitality, 
there have been no distress signals. Our restless 
activity is a source of constant wonder to the natives. 

[251] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

It is reported that two of them who made the south- 
ern trip with us simply threw up their hands and 
said the Filipinos couldn't fight a people who worked 
as we did. It may be we have " office hours," but 
I have forgotten what they are. 



Manila, June 2, igoi. 
Our already overcharged atmosphere is now be- 
ing fanned into a state of torrid heat by a discussion 
of the proposed Judiciary Act and appointment of 
Judges. Believing the judiciary a critical point in 
our administration, the Commission proposed mak- 
ing a somewhat clean sweep of the present person- 
nel and naming men of tried standing from the 
States. This has driven the native press into parox- 
ysms. They say the Filipino judges stood by the 
American Government during its time of trial, and 
they are now to be ousted without any proof of guilt 
or incompetency; that if they have done wrong, then 
let charges be brought against them. Our American 
press, while violent enough in its opposition to ap- 
pointing Filipinos, is pro-military, and condemns the 
Commission for overlooking the judicial merits of 
various volunteer army officers whose commissions 
expire shortly. The American bar of Manila Is also 
up in arms, and is literally pawing the air because 
the Commission has provided that Spanish shall con- 
tinue the official language of the courts until 1906. 
They want English substituted at once, even though 
it would result in eliminating practically every Fili- 

[252] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

plno from the practice. Their attitude has the sup- 
port of the American papers, and is condemned 
utterly by the Spanish-Filipino press. In the dis- 
cussion of the Judiciary Act and Code of Procedure, 
Serior Calderon, President of the College of Advo- 
cates, together with all the members of that body, 
remained away from the public sessions, claiming 
they had not been allowed sufficient time to study 
the bills. For eight months and more they have 
been invited to assist in framing these acts (some- 
thing they have repeatedly promised, but failed to 
do), and they now refuse to play simply because 
the Commission declines to further postpone dis- 
cussion of the bills ; this, too, when other Important 
legislation is crowding, and the whole judicial ma- 
chinery Is paralyzed pending the passage of these 
laws. 

From the provinces come reports of friction be- 
tween the military and the newly appointed civil 
authorities. Now that their supreme power Is cur- 
tailed, some of our army brethren have a tendency 
to either lie back and do nothing, or else create 
active difficulties through refusing to recognize or 
cooperate with the regular government officials. 
Many of them consider the organization of civil 
government premature, and evidently harbor the 
idea that In Its discomfiture or failure there is some- 
thing of credit to themselves. In Tayabas, where 
the Governor (an American) was building a road 
and lacked transportation, a quartermaster making 
the trip was asked to take up some shovels. This 

[253] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

patriot told him to run his own government; that 
he wasn't hauling tools for any damned civilian. In 
Nueva Caceres, which is staff headquarters for three 
regiments, not a move has been made against the 
insurgents since the province was organized. In 
Bataan the arrogance of the military commander 
became such that the civil governor tendered his 
resignation, but was persuaded to withdraw it. 

It is hoped that with the establishment of a central 
civil government, and the advent of a new military 
head, conditions will be changed. The work is hard 
enough, goodness knows, with all our people pulling 
together. The Filipinos are naturally suspicious of 
us, and are hunting out every sign of weakness in 
our administration. Talk, talk, talk — they seem 
made of words. There are a dozen newspapers 
here, and it seems every Filipino feels it his duty to 
enlighten the islands with his views. The latest 
complaint is that they are not treated fairly in the 
distribution of civil service positions, and that Amer- 
icans are paid higher salaries than they. No account 
is taken of the fact that the cost of living for Amer- 
icans is excesssive; that they are cutting themselves 
off from a settled career at home, and are likely 
stocking their systems with an assortment of germs 
which will work havoc with them by and by. The 
serenity with which Judge Taft meets these accumu- 
lating annoyances is a wonder. He simply smiles 
and drives on, his personality radiating good will 
and over-riding all obstacles. 

Commissioners Worcester and Moses start this 

[254] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

week on a trip through the mountains of Northern 
Luzon, and LeRoy and I go with them. The pur- 
pose is to examine progress on the new Benguet 
road, and to study the form of government best 
suited to the so-called non-Christian Tribes. The 
other Commissioners plan leaving Manila about the 
same time to organize the coast provinces of Luzon. 
I was given my choice of the two expeditions and 
naturally chose the mountain one. There will be no 
" sessions " to report, and no banquetes or hailes. 
It will be the sun and the wind — earth, sky, and 
mountain, and a people who live close to the soil. 
We go by train to Dagupan, where we take horses 
for the remainder of the journey. 



Manila, June 28, igoi. 
My last was written on the eve of a pilgrimage 
with Commissioners Worcester and Moses into the 
high hills where dwell the head-hunting Igorotes. 
We are back now, thanks to a watchful Providence, 
and I fain would tell you something of our experi- 
ences. They were varied enough, though the grip 
of it all lies so much in the actual encounter that I 
fear my scant notes will prove a poor substitute. 



Dagupan, June 6, igoi. 
Our train for Dagupan left at six this morning. 
Why it should start so early, simply to wind itself 
up in mid-afternoon, is one of the puzzles of Philip- 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

pine railroad administration. We are a party of 
five, Dr. Barrows, Superintendent of Manila 
Schools, having joined us at the last moment. He 
and the two Commissioners took dinner and spent 
the night with General " Jakey" Smith, LeRoy and 
I being cared for by his aide, Lieutenant Bushfield. 
During dinner a captain, who had taken more than 
his allowance of scotch and soda, enlivened us with 
reflections upon the Philippine situation. His views 
were quite entertaining, though his ultimate con- 
clusion must have been his own, as It Involved elimi- 
nating every Filipino in the islands. We bunked on 
army cots and caught mosquitoes most of the night. 



June 7, igoi. 
We got away shortly after seven this morning, 
having added Dr. Keller, of the Dagupan hospital, 
to our number, who comes to patch us up in case 
of illness or accident. We have a sergeant and four 
men as escort, besides a Hospital Corps man and a 
cook. Our supply train consists of nine mules in 
charge of three jpackers. We are all mounted on 
large American horses — a somewhat dubious ve- 
hicle for mountain trails. Our start was made In 
the rain, giving color to the stories told of hard 
travel in the interior at this season. As we filed 
out, enveloped In our ponchos, we needed only 
masks to be taken for a delegation of Ku Klux 
Klan. What with the mud and water, and the black 
grease off our saddles, we soon lost that sense of 

[256] 




I J' "> I 





THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

respectability which attaches to cleanliness. Our ride 
led through a fertile, level country, interspersed with 
numerous villages, the population of which was at 
the windows. 

The first stop was at Pozorubio, eighteen miles 
out, in charge of a young lieutenant. He invited us 
to his quarters, where lunch was prepared. We had 
expected to push forward to Mead's camp on the 
new road, but finally decided to lay over until morn- 
ing. The failure of our pack train to show up was 
the reason assigned, but the truth is none of us are 
cowboys, and a little relief from those saddles was 
welcome. Our host, with refreshing naivete, de- 
plored the establishment of civil government, as it 
prevented his commandeering supplies from the na- 
tives for our entertainment. 



June 8, igoi. 

We reached Mead's camp, twelve miles out, be- 
fore eleven, the last eight miles being over the new 
road and in the foothills of the mountains. The 
road follows the Bued River, and, as we ascended, 
the valley closed in until finally the river came tum- 
bling down through a narrow gorge. Here the 
course of the road is being blasted out of the solid 
rock, causing delay. About seven hundred men are 
employed on the work, labor being difficult to secure 
and of mighty poor quality. 

After tiffin, with Captain Mead and his assistants, 
we struck for Santo Tomas, a coast point further 
to the north, our road being a mere trail through 

[257] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

the forest. The usual afternoon rain fell In tor- 
rents, and we were soon thoroughly soaked. For 
a certain kind of rain, and for a certain time, an 
army poncho (rain cape) keeps you dry, but neither 
in kind nor time was this rain one of them. The 
bridges en route were simply bamboo poles spread 
on stringers, never intended for heavy American 
horses. They gave us much trouble. Dr. Barrows 
narrowly escaping accident, while one of the mules 
fell through. We reached Santo Tomas at six o'clock, 
wet, tired, and silent, having ridden about twenty- 
seven miles. There are twenty soldiers here in 
charge of a sergeant, who turned his nipa house over 
to us and did what he could to help out. Our pack, 
being delayed by the bridges, did not arrive until 
late. In the meantime the president of the town 
and the barrio chiefs came to pay their respects. 
This began to look a bit like old times, though it 
must have taken considerable faith on their part, 
accustomed to pomp and ceremony in government 
officials, to recognize as a part of the august 
" Comision Civil" the two khaki-clad, soaked and 
bewhiskered representatives of that body present. 
The head of the Partido Federal asked us to dinner, 
which we gladly accepted. After dinner the daugh- 
ter of the house, who had gotten Into her starched 
clothes, played the harp while some of her friends 
sang for us. The old music master was also requi- 
sitioned, and he was certainly a wonder. His shirt was 
outside his trousers, and he smoked a big cigar, but 
his work was that of an artist. 

[258] 





Arch, of Welcome, Tacloban, Leyte 




Scene on the Benguet Road 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

We received word tonight that the northern trip 
of the Commission has been postponed until July, 
which may give us a chance to get in on it. We 
slept on the floor of the nipa, our blankets for a 
bed. We were too tired to be critical, however. 



June g, igoi. 

We breakfasted from the pack today on coffee, 
bacon, and bread, using our tin-plate outfit. While 
saddling for the start our sergeant's horse wheeled 
and kicked him in the side, laying him out. He was 
carried indoors and treated to some stimulant, which 
soon brought him around. 

Our ride today was along the coast road to 
Baoang, eighteen miles, which we reached at one 
o'clock. It was Sunday, and in all the villages 
and along the highroad the people were out in force, 
adding much to the interest. We crossed several 
little rivers, which seemed largely given over to 
laundry purposes. From appearances many of the 
people had no change of raiment. 

As some of our horses had cast their shoes, we 
decided to lay over at Baoang until morning. Nearly 
every town in the Philippines has what is known as a 
"Tribunal," which corresponds to our city hall. Be- 
sides its official use, it serves also to lodge passing 
strangers, and was placed at our disposal. Most of 
the people were at the cockpit, but upon call of the 
president they adjourned in a body to hear about 

[259] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

the blessings of free government. Mr. Worcester 
gave them a talk and they went back to their cock- 
pit utterly unconscious of the humor of adjourning 
a Sunday cock fight to listen to a dissertation on self- 
government. Dr. Keller, LeRoy, and I recipro- 
cated by joining the throng at the cockpit, being 
given reserved seats in the form of a bench imme- 
diately adjoining the ring. 

That night we spread our blankets on the floor 
of the tribunal, which was made of the " hardwood " 
for which the Philippines are famous. 



June 10, igoi. 
We left civilization today and headed for the 
mountains. A short stop was made at Naguilian, 
just at the foothills, where our real work began. 
The trail is a rough one, and, as we advanced, the 
sun grew hotter and hotter and the going harder 
and harder. In many places we were obliged to 
walk, and men and horses were used up when we 
struck camp at one-thirty. Our stop was at a point 
called Sablan, the accommodations being two vacant 
nipa shacks used indiscriminately by passersby. It 
was here Aguinaldo proposed establishing a gun 
foundry. He despoiled a number of coast churches 
of their bells and had them carried up this fearful 
trail by Igorotes. He also had an old boiler and 
lathe lugged up ; how I do not know. It was his idea 
to make of the Benguet mountains a sort of Ther- 
mopylae, where a final stand would be made. The 
[260] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

plan was not a bad one, as the two or three trails en- 
tering the province could be easily defended. The 
scheme was beyond him, however, and the bells still 
litter the ground at Sablan. We spent the afternoon 
and night there, one of the nipas being taken by us 
and the other by some Igorotes. These latter are the 
"freighters" of the mountains, carrying from sev- 
enty-five to one hundred and twenty-five pounds on 
their backs with ease. They are well formed and 
muscular, the men usually wearing nothing but a gee- 
string. Most of those we saw today had a dog or 
two tied to a stick, destined to be eaten later on. 
It was three in the afternoon when our pack got 
in, and as we had eaten nothing since six A. M., we 
had a powerful hunger. There were no doors or 
windows to our hut and we had to shift frequently 
during the night to escape the rain. We slept on 
the floor, which is likely to be our portion hence- 
forward. 



Baguio, June ii, igoi. 
Today we finished our climb into Baguio, and the 
mental pictures gathered crowded thick one upon 
the other. During the first few hours our trail led 
through a dense tropical growth, giant creepers and 
great tree ferns vieing for supremacy. Frequently 
our path wound close beside some deep gorge, drop- 
ping hundreds of feet below, and again we crept 
along some narrow hog's back with sheer precipices 
to either side. Then, as we rounded some jutting 

[261] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

peak, there would spring into view the whole ex- 
panse of country sweeping down to the China Sea. 
Ocean and sky met and blended on the far horizon, 
while through the deep green of wooded hills and 
valleys meandered the silver thread of the Naguilian 
River. As we ascended the undergrowth gradually 
thinned, and we saw an occasional fir or pine tree; 
thlsn they came in groups, and finally the country 
took on the aspect of a great pajpk, reminding of our 
northern forests at home. 

As yet there is really no town of Ba'gulo. There 
are a few Igorote huts scattered about, with some 
activity at this time because of work on the new 
road. There is a small detachment of soldiers, a 
weather man, an American teacher, and the pro- 
vincial officials. 

The rain started earlier today than usual, and it 
was not the warm rain of the lowlands but a thor- 
ough-going downpour that made us shiver — the ele- 
vation here being over five thousand feet. Long 
before we reached our destination we were wet, cold, 
and hungry, a condition said to test the sweetest dis- 
position. While no one was heard to say he really 
enjoyed it, there was no complaining. Some of the 
escort, however, who thought they were going on a 
pleasure trip with the Commissioners, were heard 
to remark that had they known what was coming 
they would have been on sick report. From all ac- 
counts the worst is yet to come. 

We were met by Otto Scherer, the Provincial 
Secretary, whose house, though somewhat rude, is 

[262] 




Tropical Vegetation, Benguet 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

quite commodious for this region. A warm meal 
awaited us, headed by an immense dish of rice and 
fish called " valenciana." It saved our lives. Later 
we were able to get into dry clothes, and my legs, 
which were perfectly numb, gradually came to life 
again. We are all quite willing to make affidavit 
concerning the "cool and bracing air" of Baguio. 
It rained all afternoon, and the doctor and I migrated 
to the kitchen, where we sat about an open fire 
among the Igorotes. The weather man reports a 
falling barometer, with prospects of a protracted 
storm. Tonight we slept on the floor again, bundled 
up like Esquimaux, having on nearly all our clothes. 
It is quite a sensation to be thoroughly cold once 
more. 



Baguio, June 12, igoi. 

" Baguio " is Spanish for typhoon, and our ex- 
perience here would justify the name. Despite the 
storm, however, we were out most of the day. A 
school was opened here about two weeks ago, and 
about twenty little Igorotes have already been gath- 
ered from the bushes and started on the royal road. 
They are scant of clothes and very dirty, and the hut 
where they are housed is primitive In Its bareness. 
The scene Impressed one as being the very beginning 
of things — a sowing of seed whose reaping In Its 
fullness lay with far distant generations. 

In the afternoon we visited the new road, seven 
miles of which are constructed. It runs the entire 

[263] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

distance through a great pine forest, skirting deep 
ravines and canons and affording some of the most 
magnificent prospects I have ever seen. Some day 
this place will be as famous for its scenery as for 
its climate. Many of the views reminded me of 
Switzerland, and I cannot imagine a more beautiful 
drive than this will be when finished. With such a 
spot practically at the doors of Manila, life in the 
islands should prove both healthful and attractive. 
There are about three hundred Igorotes on the 
work, and as they burrowed half-naked in the hill- 
sides they resembled so many great beetles. 

On preparing to retire tonight Commissioner 
Worcester and Dr. Keller each missed a blanket. 
Inquiry developed that some of the escort had used 
them for saddle blankets, giving rise to language 
which perceptibly raised the temperature. Mr. 
Worcester was able to replace his, but the doctor 
shivered and muttered the night through. 



Baguio, June 13, igoi. 
We are getting the tail of a typhoon raging in the 
China Sea, and were confined in the house most of 
the day. We start tomorrow, however, rain or 
shine. From point of weather our stay has been 
inhospitable, but nothing has been lacking in the hos- 
pitality of Mr. Scherer and family. His daughter, 
a girl of seventeen, presides in his home, and while 
she has never attended a " finishing school," she has 
all the grace of manner natural to women of these 
islands. 

[264] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

June 14, igoi. 
We added Mr. Scherer and some Igorote carriers 
to our outfit today, but lost Dr. Barrows, whose work 
called him back to Manila. The day promised fair, 
but failed to make good. We had barely started 
when it began raining, making a bad trail worse. 
It was fierce. At noontime there was no sign of our 
pack, and no one had brought any "chow." Our 
only recourse was the rice of our carriers, which 
they gladly bartered for a couple of " dhobie " dol- 
lars. The drop to primitive man is altogether swift 
when hunger comes, and we shocked every canon of 
organized society as we sat down in the rain and 
scooped that rice in with our fingers. Then followed 
six hours of the hardest kind of work. The rain 
came down in sheets, while that trail climbed up and 
up as though to reach the top of the world. As we 
ascended the rain slackened, the clouds stretching in 
great streamers across the distant ranges. Far be- 
low in the gorges we could see the mist swirl up as 
from some great cauldron until it enveloped us ; then 
it would scatter and lie low in the deep ravines, or 
chase in white puffs across the dark flanks of the 
hills. Occasionally the crest only of some high peak 
would arise above the turmoil, creating the effect of 
immeasurable distance. After reaching the top we 
started down, and went down farther and faster 
than we came up. If it was hard work getting to 
the top, it was a muscle-wrenching, nerve-wracking 
job getting to the bottom. The descent was so sharp 
and the trail so slippery we could ride little of it; 

[265] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

we skated and slid along, our horses tumbling at owr 
heels, threatening each moment to fall upon us. 
Late in the afternoon the sky cleared, and as we 
made our final plunge into the valley of the Agno at 
Ambuclao all the different ranges stood clear cut 
against the sky. When Baguio becomes a second 
Simla, merry outing parties will make this trip and 
exhaust all their adjectives describing the ride. We 
exhausted ours, but they were of the hyphenated 
kind and applied mostly to the trail. 

Ambuclao consists of some dozen Igorote huts, 
and as we trailed in just at dusk we were a sorry 
looking crowd. Mr. Scherer drew on the populace 
for some chickens and rice, and, much to our sur- 
prise, the pack train followed closely. 

It was a night to remember. We simply moved 
in with the Igorotes. Two small houses were va- 
cated for the soldiers, who were joined by LeRoy 
and the Doctor. In the house occupied by the two 
Commissioners, Mr. Scherer, and myself, the family 
remained. It was a simple room, some thirteen by 
sixteen feet. To the family chattels we added our 
baggage and saddles. In one corner was a firebox, 
the smoke going out where it could. There were 
two openings, used as doors, and we spread our 
blankets as near these as possible. The family, con- 
sisting of a man, his wife, and several children, slept 
near the fire. We outraged their ideas of health by 
keeping the doors open, it being their custom, as It 
is of most Filipinos, to tightly close their houses at 
night. These people have few clothes and no 

[266] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

blankets, so they kept the fire going all night, stir- 
ring it into flame at intervals. We also ate dinner 
in this hut, our table being a poncho spread on the 
floor, lit by a couple of sputtering candles. We 
grouped about this in such attitudes as the vicissitudes 
of our ride made comfortable, some of the party 
being in pajamas. All the Igorotes of the town — 
men, women, and children — gathered about the 
house to see the unwonted sight. They were half- 
clothed and altogether unkempt, the children wear- 
ing nothing but a string of beads. Considering 
our early breakfast, our long ride, and scanty lunch, 
the appetite with which we ate that dinner was to be 
envied. 



June 15, igoi. 
This morning we took a plunge in the river, and 
It was cold. This possibly explains why the Igorotes 
look as if they never bathed; they hate the shock of 
cold water. We did not get away until eleven, our 
trail leading up the Agno for some distance and then 
over a high range to Daklan, which we reached at 
three-thirty. It is quite a large settlement, but as 
their tribunal was burned some two weeks ago we 
had to lodge once more in an Igorote hut. The 
Commissioners called a meeting of the headmen and 
explained our plans and purposes toward them, Mr. 
Scherer acting as Interpreter. He Is earnest In this 
thing, and as he stalked in front of the people, 
throwing out his arms and shooting his words at 

[267] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

them In quick, short sentences, it was a sight worth 
seeing. 

We had thought our accommodations last night 
the limit, but they were palatial compared with those 
of tonight. Here we occupied an Igorote house 
of one room, possibly fourteen by eighteen feet, into 
which was crowded our party of five, our Igorote 
carriers, the family, some chickens, and a couple 
of dogs. Mr. Moses spread his blankets on a small 
raised platform to one side, while Mr. Worcester 
occupied a tiny projection under the eaves. Mr. 
Scherer, used as he is to such experiences, fled the 
scene, saying he would find some other house or sleep 
in the coffee bushes. We would have followed suit, 
but it was raining and we did not know the place or 
people. While we were retiring, and for some time 
thereafter, our host, his wife, her friends, and his 
friends, were having a private dinner party at our 
feet. It was a situation to conjure with. Mr. 
Moses, from his platform, hummed an old couplet, 
which ran — 

How little did my mother think, 

That time she cradled me; 
What lands I was to travel in, 

What sights I was to see. 

I kicked one of the dogs, while the Doctor com- 
plained that the people were sitting on his feet. 
After many false starts the visitors finally left, and 
we were alone with the home product. Comparative 
quiet reigned until the rooster woke up, and I have 

[268] 




o 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

never heard a bird which could crow louder or longer 
than he could. It was an experience with which one 
remains satisfied with once enduring. 



June i6, igoi. 
Today we made Kabayan, some twenty miles. It 
has been a series of ascents and descents, hard on 
men and horses. We crossed two ranges, walking a 
good part of the way. This morning my saddle 
slipped, the girth getting under the horse's withers, 
causing a pyrotechnic display of heels, unpleasant on 
a narrow trail. The scenery continues something 
superb. At one point today we followed the crest 
of a divide overlooking two valleys shut in by high 
mountains. Below us were winding streams and 
rice fields turning golden for the harvest With a 
clear sky above we could see the dark clouds and 
hear the thunder roll amid the peaks to left and 
right; then the storm swooped down upon us, and 
we took our daily baptism of rain. Shortly before 
reaching Kabayan we saw what might have been a 
bit of old Japan. Before us stretched a narrow 
valley, terraced far up the sides with rice fields shad- 
ing in color from the tenderest green to the yellow 
of the ripened grain. Higher up was a belt of deep 
green coffee trees, among which were the green- 
roofed huts of an Igorote village. From the head 
of the valley flowed a small mountain stream, which 
was ingeniously directed into a far-reaching scheme 
of irrigating canals. Untutored though they are, 

[269] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

these mountain people have developed an irrigation 
system which would be considered splendid en- 
gineering in any country. Not only does it repre- 
sent a high order of skill but it bespeaks habits of 
Industry which their Christian brethren of the low- 
lands might well emulate. 

Kabayan, our destination for the day, Is one of 
the largest and richest villages in Benguet. It is on 
the Agno, which is here almost a canon. The situ- 
ation Is a beautiful one and compares favorably with 
many a Swiss valley where tourists pour their mil- 
lions annually. In the late afternoon the headmen 
of the district gathered about the Commissioners and 
received some lessons in government. The people 
of these islands have a peculiar squat; they simply 
double up at the knees like a chicken, and as our 
audience ranged itself in this posture along the top 
of a stone wall they looked like so many big birds. 
We lodged In the tribunal, which, after our experi- 
ence of last night, proved a veritable Waldorf- 
Astoria. We have decided to stop here a day and 
rest men and horses. 



June ij, igoi. 
This has been a perfect day. To do nothing after 
hard work, and to do it on good, wholesome food, 
and in a place as beautiful and interesting as 
Kabayan, represents almost the ideal. We went 
bathing In the river, Mr. Worcester took some 
photographs, the Doctor made some sick calls, and 

[270] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

we jointly enthused over the picturesqueness of our 
environment. We go to bed early these days, gen- 
erally before eight o'clock. Our bed was the floor 
of the tribunal. 



June i8, igoi. 
We were off today at six o'clock and it was the 
worst yet. For the most part our trails are simply 
rude cuts along the mountain side, often only a few 
feet wide and frequently overlooking gorges that 
reach down indefinitely. Our horses, for some rea- 
son, seem to prefer the outer edge of the path, and 
it has been a gamble which would go over first. 
My horse won out. In rounding a sharp turn this 
morning, with water running in the path, he made 
a jump to walk on the grass alongside. The " grass " 
proved to be simply rank growth on the edge of the 
trail, and over he went. Fortunately I was leading 
him at the time. I swung his head by the reins and 
he tried valiantly to recover, but there was nothing 
doing. He hung a moment and then went over 
backwards, disappearing with a crash amid the grass 
and bamboo which shut out the depths below. I 
couldn't tell whether he had fallen fifteen feet or 
fifty, and I had visions of walking the rest of the 
trip. Some of the escort clambered down the de- 
clivity, while I made a detour and worked in through 
the tangle from below, assisted by some Igorotes 
with bolos. We found the horse bundled up on some 
rocks about twenty-five feet below the trail. The 

[271] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

jungle growth had broken his fall, and, with the 
exception of some scratches, he is apparently unin- 
jured. 

Late in the afternoon we reached Loa, the most 
northern village of Benguet. There may be steeper 
trails and rougher country than we have traveled 
for the past five days, but none of our party have 
seen them. It is possible also that there is level 
ground in the province, but from Naguilian to Loa 
we haven't seen a level patch of over forty acres 
outside the Trinidad Valley. The country is simply 
perpendicular and without sequence, the ranges cris- 
crossing in every direction. The trails are little more 
than Igorote footpaths, and when an Igorote wants 
to get to the top of a hill or mountain he goes straight 
for it; the thought of finding a grade never occurs 
to him. It began raining at two — a cold, heavy 
downpour. When you dismount, your saddle gets 
wet, and in remounting you wrap your wet poncho 
about your legs, sit on it, and do a lot of other 
uncomfortable things. We finally struck the Loa 
Valley, and it was better going. Here, however, 
we had to ford the Agno River eight times, and as 
we sloshed through the water, wet to the skin, we 
appreciated Stevenson's description where he speaks 
of being so thoroughly miserable he began to enjoy it. 

We had been expecting for the past two days to 
meet General Bell and party. In company with 
Mrs. Taft, her sister, Miss Herron, and Miss Bubb 
he left Vigan on the seventh headed this way. They 
have been traveling through Lepanto and Bontoc, 

[272] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

and go south over our trail to Baguio. We ran into 
them this afternoon at Loa. 

Loa is an insignificant place, with the usual limited 
accommodations. The best we could do for our 
combined parties was one nipa house, the ladies 
screening off one corner with blankets. There were 
eleven of us in the room. The floor was of bamboo, 
being more comfortable to lie on than boards. We 
are now becoming connoisseurs as to floors. We all 
took dinner together and passed a delightful eve- 
ning. The encounter in such a place was decidedly 
novel, and we were quite willing to celebrate it by 
postponing our usual retiring hour. 



June ig, igoi. 

Today we made Cervantes, the capital of Lepanto, 
being in the saddle for seven hours. We broke the 
ride for an interval at the ranch of Don Jose Mills, 
a Spaniard who has lived in these mountains over 
twenty years. He has made considerable money 
out of coffee and mining, and welcomed us with true 
Spanish hospitality. We were served with some good 
cold beer and a fine lunch, whereupon, on suggestion 
of the Doctor, we pronounced our host to be " a gen- 
tleman and a scholar." 

As we neared Cervantes the mountains took on 
more of a horizontal aspect, and we had compara- 
tively easy going. The pine forests which have 
lined the trail since leaving Baguio also began to 
disappear, being replaced by the more vivid foliage 

[273] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

of the tropics. Early in the afternoon we struck the 
valley of the Abra, which we followed downward to 
Cervantes. There is a small detachment of soldiers 
here, with a lieutenant in charge. He has his wife 
with him, while Major Rice, in command of the dis- 
trict, was also at the post. We ate dinner with them 
at a regular table and slept upon cots. We felt quite 
luxurious. A public meeting is scheduled for tomor- 
row, and then we are off for Bontoc. 



June 20, igoi. 
About two hundred Igorotes and some fifty 
"Cristianos" (converted Filipinos) attended the 
session today. The meeting was held in the public 
street under some large trees, reminding somewhat 
of our interviews with Moro Dattos in Mindanao. 
Those of the Igorotes who pretended to definite 
clothing were dressed in curious fragments; one 
would have a khaki coat, another a blue shirt, an- 
other the rim of an old derby hat, etc. The speech 
went from English into Spanish, then into Ilocano, 
and some of it into Igorote. It would be interesting 
to know just what idea the ultimate individual 
formed of what was said. 



June 21, igoi. 
We went to bed last night expecting to start for 
Bontoc early today, having been told great tales of 
the preparations made to receive us. Late in the 

[274] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

night, however, a message came through from Ma- 
nila advising important news from Washington, and 
suggesting the return of the Commissioners. In- 
stead of heading further inland, therefore, we struck 
out on a record ride for Manila. We made Angaqui, 
fifteen miles to the westward, before eleven o'clock. 
Here some of the horses went lame, and we could 
see a thunderstorm rolling through the Tilat Pass, 
where we are to cross the mountains. This decided 
us to remain in Angaqui over night. By making an 
early start we hope to reach the coast in one day. 



June 22, igoi. 
We rode today from Angaqui to the sea, twenty- 
eight miles. Our horses were in bad shape, making 
the ride a hard one. Our early start brought us to 
the top of the Tilat Pass shortly after seven, and we 
had at different stages that most beautiful of all 
sights, sunlight effects upon fog. The valley below 
us was a rolling cloud bank, and as the sun rose over 
the eastern range we looked down upon a sea of 
tumbling silver. From the summit of the pass we 
saw the sea once more, the country being spread be- 
fore us like a relief map. Through the clear air the 
coast seemed but a step away, but it was four in the 
afternoon when, hot, tired, and sore, we urged our 
jaded horses into the plaza at Santa Cruz. The lat- 
ter part of the ride was particularly trying. We 
forded the Santa Cruz River, which is filled with 
loose stones, no less than fourteen times. In some 

[275] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

places the current was quite swift and deep, and our 
horses found it difficult to keep their footing. The 
final stretch of twelve miles over the flat coast plain 
was made in the sultry heat of the afternoon. We 
looked like tramps, but were hospitably received by 
Captain Wallace, in charge. After a shave, a bath, 
and some clean clothes, we took on again the appear- 
ance of civilized beings. Our horses and pack train 
remain here for a few days to recuperate. We are 
off tomorrow for San Fernando de la Union, forty- 
five miles, by relays of wagons; thence to Dagupan 
by launch tomorrow night, and Manila next day by 
train. I slept on a pillow tonight, the first since 
leaving Manila. 



June 2j, igoi. 
Our entire ride today was along the coast, being 
within sight of the sea always, and often right along 
the shore. We made it in three relays, reaching San 
Fernando at six in the evening. The first two relays 
were made in open escort wagons drawn by four 
mules. The heat, and dust, and the hammering of 
the wagons over the road left little margin for per- 
sonal comfort. It was an interesting ride neverthe- 
less. It was Sunday, a day dedicated by these people 
to marketing, cock-fighting, and church-going. Vari- 
ous of the presidents had received word of our com- 
ing, and were out to meet us, accompanied by the 
village band. Our stops, however, were short. We 
crossed a number of rivers, using what they call 

[276] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

"balsas," being a raft made of bamboo. A long 
rope is attached to the raft and then carried across 
the stream and made fast. The raft is then pushed 
into the current and drifts down the stream until 
brought up short by the rope, when it is gradually 
pulled out of the current. It is a primitive and excit- 
ing method of transfer. We boarded the launch 
immediately on reaching San Fernando and got un- 
der way without delay. We had a pick-up dinner and 
slept on deck, the cool sea air being most refreshing. 



June 24^ igoi. 

While we were but a few hours making the run to 
Dagupan, we could not cross the bar until after five 
this morning, so missed the early train for Manila, 
which left at five o'clock. Why it should leave so 
early is another of the mysteries. We bid good-by 
here to Dr. Keller. He had proven a pleasant and 
congenial companion, and we parted with regret, 
each to take up again his separate way of life. 

It was eight that evening when we reached Manila 
after a somewhat tedious ride. We had come from 
Cervantes in less than four days, something of a 
record. While it is a bit disappointing that our trip 
was curtailed, yet to be in Manila at this time, and to 
witness and take part in the transfer from military to 
civil rule, is compensation. I will reserve politics, 
however, for another letter. 



[277] 



XIV 

THE PASSING OF THE "EMPIRE" 

Manila, July 2, igoi. 
TUST across the plaza square from where I write 
*^ workmen are erecting the stand where, on July 
4, Judge Taft will take oath as Civil Governor of the 
Philippine Islands. It is a somewhat momentous 
change from that time a year ago, when soldiers 
patrolled all of Manila's streets, and it was unsafe to 
venture outside the city limits; when civilians were 
few and barely tolerated, and when all classes re- 
garded each other with distrust and suspicion. To- 
day peace reigns throughout most of the archipelago 
and the people are returning to their homes and 
fields. They are coming to have faith in our prom- 
ises and in our ability to protect them. 

By the present change in government Judge Taft 
becomes the chief executive, while the Commission 
remains the legislative body. The members of the 
Commission are also to be heads of departments, 
with executive functions. Another innovation Is the 
appointment of three Filipinos on the Commission, a 
step in line with our expressed policy and conforme 
to popular clamor. Those selected for the place are 
Dr. T. H. Pardo de Tavera, Don Benito Legarda, 

[278] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

and Don Jose Luzuriaga, all men of broad intelli- 
gence and superior to most of their countrymen in 
appreciation of the crisis through which their coun- 
try is passing. Their nomination is to be announced 
during the inaugural ceremonies on July 4, though 
they do not enter upon their duties until September i. 

General MacArthur departs the scene on July 5. 
He will be succeeded by General Adna R. Chaffee, 
whom it Is hoped will be imbued with a clearer con- 
ception of the fact that the purpose of our army in 
the Philippines is to restore civil rule than was his 
predecessor. 

On July I all the army officers holding volunteer 
commissions were mustered out. Many of them 
have been performing quasi-civil duties under detail 
of the Military Governor, and will be continued in 
such positions, the only difference being that they 
will now discard their uniforms and report to the 
new executive. The rapid extension of civil govern- 
ment has entailed quite a call for efficient men for 
the different posts, and while there has been no lack 
of candidates it has not always been easy to find the 
right material. Given our distance from the base of 
supply, it is felt the Commission has been quite 
fortunate in its selections. A number of Filipinos 
have been appointed judges and to other positions, 
silencing for a time the recent clamor over judicial 
appointments. 

As can be imagined, there has been no let-up in the 
work. The fact is, our machine is undermanned, 
though there seems no present way to avoid it. 

[279] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Manila, July 14, igoi. 

The " Days of the Empire," as our military 
regime has been dubbed, are no more. On July 4 
Judge Taft was inaugurated Civil Governor of the 
Philippine Islands, marking another step in the some- 
what kaleidoscopic march of events framed here 
since May, 1898. The inaugural ceremonies were 
simple and impressive. They were held in the open, 
fronting the old plaza square in the Walled City, 
where so much of history has been written. The 
morning was a perfect one, and the crowd which 
packed every available space was a mixture of every 
race, creed, and caste. 

Judge Taft filled full the place allotted him, and 
when, with uplifted hand, he responded to the oath 
administered by Chief Justice Arellano, I doubt if 
there was one in all that vast throng but felt that 
the strongest of them all had been called to leader- 
ship. Once again, as oft before, I wished it might 
have been possible for that coterie of long-range 
knockers, known as the "Anti-Imperialist League," 
to be present. Perhaps in watching that scene and 
breathing that atmosphere they would have appreci- 
ated something of the work done and doing to bring 
to these people those blessings which are our herit- 
age and boast. 

What the task involves, and the genuinely altruistic 
spirit and high purpose with which It is undertaken, 
may be sensed from the closing paragraphs of Judge 
Taft's address, wherein he referred to his appoint- 
ment and to our collective obligation as follows : 

[280] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

The burden of the responsibility which, by taking 
the oath this day administered to me, I assume, I 
shall not dwell upon, except to say that no one real- 
izes it more keenly than I do. While I am pro- 
foundly grateful to the President of the United 
States for the personal trust thus expressed in ap- 
pointing me to this high office, it is with no exultant 
spirit of confidence that I take up the new duties 
and new task assigned me. I must rely, as I do, 
upon the cooperation, energy, ability, and fidelity 
to their trust of those with whom I am to share the 
responsibility now presented, and upon the sympa- 
thetic and patriotic patience of those educated Fili- 
pino people who have already rendered me such tre- 
mendous aid, and upon the consciousness that earnest 
effort and honest purpose, with a saving of common 
sense, have in the past solved problems as new, as 
threatening, and as difficult as the one before me. 

The high and sacred obligation to give protection 
to property and life, civil and religious freedom, 
and wise and unselfish guidance In the paths of peace 
and prosperity to all the people of the Philippine 
Islands, is charged upon us, his representatives, by 
the President of the United States. May we not be 
recreant to this charge, which he truly says concerns 
the honor and the conscience of our country. He 
expresses the firm hope that through our " labors all 
the inhabitants of the Philippine Islands may come 
to look back with gratitude to the day when God 
gave victory to American arms at Manila and set 
their land under the sovereignty and protection of 
the people of the United States." God grant that 
in spite of all the trials and perplexities, the disap- 
pointments and difficulties with which we are sure 
to be confronted, we may live to see this fervent 
hope made a living fact in the hearts of a patriotic 

[281] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

people, linked within the indissoluble ties of affec- 
tion to our common country. 

Judge Taft now occupies the dual role of Civil 
Governor and President of the Commission. The 
taking over of the executive work of the govern- 
ment has required building up a new organization, 
with a corresponding increase of labor. From all 
sides letters, petitions, and recommendations have 
poured, are pouring, and will doubtless continue to 
pour, while there has been no surcease in legislative 
matters crowding for action. In the shifting of 
personnel Judge Taft asked that Mr. Fergusson, 
Secretary of the Commission, be assigned to him as 
Executive Secretary, which was done. This left the 
position of Secretary to the Commission vacant, and 
I was asked to take it. The work is arduous but of 
absorbing interest. 



Manila, August 4, igoi. 
The Commission Is now In almost constant public 
session, and we are surfeited with oratory. The 
tongue of Castile is so smooth flowing that, like the 
brook, it threatens to go on forever. Despite all, 
however, July has to its credit quite a number of 
important measures — among them an Act creating 
a Board of Health for the Islands and establishing a 
Bureau of Government Laboratories; an Act pro- 
viding for an Insular Constabulary; the regular ap- 
propriation bill; an Act incorporating the City of 

[282] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

Manila; an Act reorganizing the Forestry Bureau, 
and an Act relating to the Postal Service. The total 
number of Acts for the month is twenty-eight, be- 
sides which the proposed Code of Civil Procedure 
has been dragging its weary way through the ses- 
sions, having been under consideration since last 
May. It has over eight hundred sections, which 
have been gone over in detail. This is now finished 
and it comes up for final passage Wednesday. 

The Insular Constabulary Act provides for the 
enlistment of a body of natives into a semi-military 
organization, who will constitute a general police 
force for the archipelago. They will be officered by 
Americans, who are intended to operate throughout 
the provinces in addition to the local poHce. They 
will supplement the army, which it is expected to 
reduce materially within the year. 

The Manila Charter, just adopted, naturally 
created considerable interest, and the public sessions 
were crowded. The city will be governed something 
after the plan of Washington, the Municipal Board 
being composed of three members with general 
supervision of affairs, the Commission acting as a 
court of last resort. One feature of the law which 
caused considerable consternation among Filipinos 
and Spaniards was the levying of a two per cent tax 
on real estate. Land has never been taxed in the 
islands heretofore, and though values have doubled 
and rents trebled in Manila since American occupa- 
tion, the tax was fought from start to finish. It was 
a case of le^ the other fellow pay — usually the one 

[283] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

who could bear it least. The provision went In with 
but slight modification. Truth to tell, the suggestions 
daily offered the Commission in the way of govern- 
ment building would make a weird structure If util- 
ized, and furnish a fair test of what might be ex- 
pected should we withdraw and let the people go It 
alone. 

At the meeting yesterday, which was held in the 
old Spanish Sessions Hall, Don Pedro A. Paterno — 
whom I have mentioned before — was the star per- 
former. The bill upon which he rose to speak was 
one providing for municipal officials in Manila and 
fixing their salaries. After some preliminary flour- 
ishes, wherein he lauded the Commission and Its 
work, and ran in a reference or two to Washington 
and the Constitution of the United States, he stated 
that he felt divinely predestined to appear before the 
Commission on this occasion; that the session hall 
where we sat seemed built to witness his personal 
triumph and the triumph of his ideas; that the last 
time he had appeared there he had championed Fili- 
pino autonomy under the Spanish regime, while he 
was now a champion of the masses, who were getting 
disheartened, he alone remaining full of faith, full 
of hope, and full of optimism. With this flying start 
we were prepared to hear a stirring appeal concern- 
ing the " rights of man," wherein all the changes 
would be rung on liberty, equality. Individual free- 
dom, etc. Instead, the only thing the speaker wanted 
was that members of the Municipal Board should 
receive $i,ooo a month instead of $4,500 a year, as 

[284] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

provided, based on the theory that they would be so 
beset by churchmen and landowners generally that 
they should have big pay. He also thought the mem- 
bers of the Advisory Board created by the Act, who 
receive no salary other than $5 for each meeting 
attended, should be compensated. His suggestion 
was that each of such members be paid $100 for 
every "memorial" presented to the Municipal 
Board. As these people do little but write petitions 
and memorials, his suggestion brought forth a shout 
of derision from the audience. He also thought 
decorations and orders of nobility would be a good 
thing. Thus is our work relieved of Its tedium. 
Paterno, however, was Vice-President of the Malolos 
Congress, is an educated man, and considered one of 
the leaders of these people. 



Manila, August 11, igoi. 
If such a thing be possible, this is the busiest time 
the Commission has experienced in a busy year. Get- 
ting the machinery of civil government moving has 
been a big job. The wheels began turnmg in Manila 
last Wednesday, the various city officials being sworn 
in and entering at once upon their duties. I have 
learned a great deal about municipal government in 
the past month or two. It was not until all these 
questions came before the Commission that I appre- 
ciated how complicated is the mechanism of our mod- 
ern municipalities and how little most people know 
about it. 

[285] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Filipinos have been given quite a large representa- 
tion in the city government, although it is realized 
they have neither the training nor experience to fit 
them for the best work. The situation seems to 
demand it, however, efficiency being sacrificed in cer- 
tain instances in order to effect our plan of training 
the people in the ways of self-government. The 
problem grows as we face the practical application of 
our theories and pledges. The Commission has been 
subjected to much criticism by the American and 
foreign community of Manila because of its policy of 
favoring the natives In legislation and in appoint- 
ments to office. We are told that the United States 
acquired the islands from Spain both by conquest and 
purchase ; that the Filipinos never had a distinct na- 
tionality, and that we are under no obligations to 
them ; that because persons happen to be native to a 
particular territory does not, ipso facto, give them a 
right to it above all others; that we came to the 
islands bringing in our train those things which make 
in the end for morality, for progress, and for the 
highest development of the individual; that we found 
here a people incapable, in many respects, of appreci- 
ating the order of things we represent, or of develop- 
ing the islands and causing them to yield to the world 
those products of which the world stands in need; 
that we should not delay this result and this process 
simply because of some fancied duty growing out of 
the fact that the present inhabitants were born on 
Philippine soil; that while the people of earth are 
divided Into various nationalities. In fact they constl- 

[286] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

tute one great body — the human race — and that 
the energy of men should be directed to advancing 
the world, the general good, rather than to coddling 
and temporizing with a fraction which proves itself 
unwilling to keep pace with the march of events. 

The question Is, How far are we justified in forc- 
ing our ideas and ideals upon these people, and how 
far should we sacrifice and delay what we believe Is 
best in order to meet the viewpoint, traditions, de- 
sires, and prejudices of the local output? Our gov- 
ernment has deliberately chosen the harder task; it 
has elected to become a guide rather than a master, 
to teach and train the people rather than attempt ar- 
bitrarily to force them to our ways. Variously, how- 
ever, do we find our utilitarian efforts appreciated 
and appraised. So far as can be judged, the mass of 
the Filipinos are satisfied at this time with what we 
are doing for them, though there Is a growing 
tendency to clamor for more privileges and 
perquisites than the most liberal policy justifies. Our 
course is roundly criticised by the American press of 
the islands, and by most of the resident foreigners, 
as being altogether visionary and dangerous, while 
we are castigated at home by various highly-sensitive 
individuals of Boston and thereabouts for " oppress- 
ing a patriotic people." 

Referring to the American papers of Manila, they 
have been anything but a help to us thus far. From 
the very beginning they have antagonized and ob- 
structed the work of the civil authorities. The con- 
fidence expressed by the Commission in the people 

[287] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

has been ridiculed, and its appointment of natives 
to office denounced and condemned. They have 
attacked everything Filipino, calling the natives 
treacherous, untrustworthy, etc., their whole attitude 
tending to destroy or render impossible that sympa- 
thy between the authorities and the people so essen- 
tial to the success of our work. The FiHpino is 
morbidly sensitive to criticism, and he has not learned 
to distinguish sufficiently between Americans to 
know that the attacks of a few disgruntled American 
papers do not express American sentiment. To a 
considerable extent this also reflects the attitude of 
American commercial interests, whose grievance 
appears to arise from the fact that the Commission 
has been more concerned in legislating for what it 
believes to be the good of the Filipinos than for the 
particular interests of outsiders. 

As to the papers, their circulation is largely an 
army one, their revenue being derived in great part 
from that source and from the advertisements of 
companies whose trade depends upon supplying can- 
teens and army commissaries. The larger the army 
of occupation, and the longer it remains, the greater 
their profits; hence their advocacy of military gov- 
ernment. 

The same coloring has also been clearly apparent 
In the Associated and other press dispatches sent to 
the States. The picture painted has usually been 
from the army standpoint, due possibly to the fact 
that most of the correspondents mess with army offi- 
cers and get their point of view. In but very few 

[288] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

instances has the real work accomplished by the civil 
authorities received just mention or credit. 

Day after tomorrow we start on our trip to 
organize the North Luzon provinces, and will be 
gone at least two weeks. Our boat this time will be 
a small one, and as it is the typhoon season some 
interesting experiences are expected. No ladies are 
to be taken, much to their regret. 



[289] 



XV 

THE NORTHERN TRIP 

Manila, August 30, igoi. 
^ I ^HE last *' Provincial Tour" has ended, and that 
you may have the story complete I send you 
my diary of its experiences. 



August 13, igoi. 

Today our northern trip entered upon its first 
stages. Once more we packed our grips, gathered 
together copies of the provincial and municipal laws, 
and sailed away to spread the gospel of free govern- 
ment among a stranger people. This is the trip 
planned for June, but not until now has the situation 
in Manila been such that the Commission could 
leave. As it is, Commissioners Wright and Moses 
remain behind — Commissioner Wright to work 
upon a proposed Criminal Code and Code of Crimi- 
nal Procedure, and Commissioner Moses to assist in 
caring for the six hundred teachers expected next 
week on the Thomas. 

We are to visit the provinces of Zambales, La 
Union, Ilocos Sur, Ilocos Norte, Abra, Cagayan, 
and Isabela. It is the typhoon season and our ves- 

[290] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

sel this time is not the Sumner, but the Aldecoa, a 
small coasting vessel of the " Compania Maritima." 
Our schedule is a hard one, involving simply one 
night stands. No one has the temerity to speak of it 
as a pleasure trip. 

We were to have left at four o'clock, but it was 
four-thirty before we got away from the Ayun- 
tamiento, work piling up until the last minute. Four 
laws were passed today. We reached the ship 
shortly after five, and at five-thirty were steaming 
toward Corregidor. 

The upper deck of the Aldecoa is roofed over, and 
dinner was served in the open. It was well, for the 
lower regions of these boats have a musty taste and 
smell about them anything but appetizing. As we 
sat at the table it was good to see so many of the 
old guard present — these who had been on hand 
from the first speech at Bacolor through all the 
vicissitudes of subsequent trips and encounters. Of 
the Commission, we have Governor Taft and Com- 
missioners Worcester and Ide, and of the staff, Fer- 
gusson, interpreter extraordinary, and LeRoy, Car- 
penter, and myself. Secretaries. McDonnel of the 
Sun, Juan de Juan of El Progreso, Pellicena of the 
Noticiero, and Gonzalez of El Comercia are also 
with us, seasoned veterans all of them of innumer- 
able banquets and bailes. Among the new faces we 
have Dr. Kruger, German Consul; Don Benito Le- 
garda, one of the newly-appointed Commissioners; 
Tomas G. del Rosario, Director of the Partido Fed- 
eral; Dr. Ejercito and Felix Dancel, who have done 

[291] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

much to bring in insurrecto leaders ; Padre Aglipay, 
Aguinaldo's Chaplain General, one of the hardest 
men with whom our troops had to deal; Father Mc- 
Kinnon, late Chaplain of the First California; Dr. 
Stafford, physician for civil employes; McCormick, 
of the Chicago Tribune; Adamson, of Leslie's 
Weekly, and Dave Morris, acting for the Associated 
Press. From the office we have Schlodfeldt and 
Calvin. 

The Aldecoa is chartered everything furnished, 
and our dinner far eclipsed anything served on the 
Sumner. The wines were of the finest, and the 
cigars of a brand calculated to woo forgetfulness of 
all earthly tribulations. It was a scene of peace and 
perfect content, but its moments were fleeting. Lying 
in wait for us just beyond Corregidor was the treach- 
erous China Sea, ever turbulent and restless. No 
sooner had our little vessel poked her nose outside 
the bay than she was caught and tossed about in 
most reckless fashion. Smiles faded, mirth and 
jollity died away, and faces became lined and solemn 
as with deep inward reflection. Anon there were 
hurried trips to the rail and a scattering for cabins, 
and the night witnessed many generous though woe- 
ful partings from that much-applauded dinner. 



China Sea, August 14, igoi. 
We were billed for Iba, Zambales Province, this 
morning, but the heavy sea breaking on the open 
roadway made landing impossible. There was noth- 

[292] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

ing for it but to steam on, hoping for better luck on 
the return. After rounding Cape Bolinao, off 
Lingayen Gulf, the sea smoothed down a bit and our 
sick began to perk up. The ship scored heavily 
though on the "everything furnished" proposition. 
We reached San Fernando de la Union at four- 
thirty, but being ahead of schedule remained aboard 
for the night that the people might finish their prep- 
arations for our reception. 



San Fernando, August 75, 1901. 

Today has been a page out of the "Southern 
Trip." After a hurried breakfast we were borne 
ashore in a gayly decorated barge and landed on a 
crowded beach to the mingled music of many bands ; 
we passed up streets lined with people and spanned 
by many arches; we met the delegates in session and 
explained the provisions of the provincial and mu- 
nicipal acts; we ate a lunch which was a dinner and 
gazed with awe upon their wonderfully carved tooth- 
picks, and admired again their abundant and gen- 
erous hospitality; in the afternoon we had more 
meeting and made the appointments to office; we 
were then escorted in procession, accompanied by the 
bands (the omnipresent bands), to where our tri- 
umphal barge awaited to carry us aboard. A ban- 
quet and haile in the evening drew the resolute and 
energetic ashore once more, though our ranks were 
sadly shattered. Such was the day. 

Our meeting of the morning had its own peculiar 

[293] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

side lights. The people here look upon the Commis- 
sion, and particularly its President, with something 
of the reverence and blind faith with which the 
devout of Bible times regarded the Apostles who 
brought healing and pardon. They came today 
with their petitions, as those of old came with their 
maladies, expecting a like sudden relief. There are 
few of them but have a husband, or brother, or some 
relative in jail because of the insurrection. This 
morning during a recess of the Commission there 
was a regular influx of women, many of them carry- 
ing or leading children, seeking the liberation of 
their respective parientes. As Secretary, the flow of 
petitions was diverted my way. As this is an Ilocano 
province, and few of the distressed spoke Spanish, 
my explanation that the Commission could not con- 
sider their petitions instanter fell upon deaf ears. 
They expected me to disburse pardons as one might 
hand out meal tickets. Some of them were crying 
and others knelt upon the floor. It was an affecting 
and trying situation. They were finally rounded up, 
and Governor Taft explained that neither as Presi- 
dent of the Commission nor as Civil Governor could 
he grant pardon to those convicted of military of- 
fenses ; that their petitions should be directed to the 
Commanding General, who would give them proper 
attention; that as to the petitions handed the Com- 
mission, they would be transmitted to the military 
authorities with recommendation of favorable action, 
given the pacific state of the province and the evident 
desire of the people for peace and order. 

[294] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

ViGAN, August 1 6, I go I. 

Today we were advertised for Vigan, Ilocos Sur, 
a place of considerable importance, but without a 
port. In choosing sites for their towns the Spaniards 
seem to have made no effort to locate them with 
reference to harbors. Eighteen miles beyond Vigan 
is a little place called Salomague, with a decent port. 
During half the year steamers load and unload at 
this point, the goods being hauled thence overland to 
Vigan. Owing to the season we had expected to do 
likewise, but last evening General Bell wired from 
Vigan telling us to anchor off the mouth of the 
Abra River and he would try to get us ashore on his 
launch. This we did, and were routed out before 
seven this morning with advice that we had fifteen 
minutes to dress, eat breakfast, and get baggage 
together for four days. The launch was some three 
hundred yards from the ship, and the transfer, which 
was made in rowboats, was exciting. We crossed the 
bar safely, though the channel is a tortuous one and 
a heavy sea was running. La'ter we shifted to some 
native praos, and after various meanderlngs landed 
at the little village of Cunayan. Here we were met 
by General Bell with transportation, a salute of 
seventeen guns being fired In honor of the Governor. 
It was a half hour's ride to Vigan over muddy roads, 
with rain at Intervals. 

Vigan is an old town, said to have been founded 
in 1572. Both it and the Ilocos provinces suffered 
sorely from the war. We were driven directly to the 
place of meeting, where we found awaiting us repre- 

[295] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

sentatives from the twenty-four towns of the prov- 
ince. Considering the condition of the roads, this 
was remarkable. The meeting differed little from 
others. There was some question as to choice for 
Provincial Secretary, so the matter was left to a vote 
of the Presidents; Seiior Ferrer, Municipal Secre- 
tary of Vigan, being chosen. 

Vigan is the military headquarters for the Second 
District, Northern Luzon, in command of General 
Bell. Every possible arrangement had been made 
by him for our entertainment, and there was not a 
single hitch in the program. A cavalry captain at 
the beginning of the Spanish war, General Bell has 
won his present rank of Brigadier General, United 
States Army, through sheer force of ability and char- 
acter. To intrepid courage and untiring energy he 
has been fortunate in possessing that other quality 
or virtue lacking in so many of our officers here; 
i. e., a genuine interest in these people and in the 
problems facing our country in connection with them. 
He has learned their language and their customs; he 
has mixed with them and studied their wants, and 
needs, and limitations. Their relentless pursuer 
when in the field, he has been their friend and helper 
when they laid down their arms. He has put in 
three years of strenuous life in these islands, and has 
fairly earned his remarkable promotion. He is a 
man of fine appearance and pleasant address, and It 
is a pleasure to have known him. 

We were given a reception in the evening by one 
of the rich Filipinos of Vigan. It was of the usual 

[296] 




< 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

order, except that the dresses of the little sehoritas^ 
appeared even more iridescent than usual. 



August 77, igoi. 

I had thought our trips by sea and land had left us 
little to experience in the way of transportation. We 
have now added another, however, perhaps the most 
interesting of all. Today we made the up-river trip 
from Vigan to Bangued, capital of Abra Province, 
on bamboo rafts, the journey occupying from eight 
A. M. until six of the afternoon. These rafts, or 
balsas, are made of bamboo poles lashed together, 
with a small raised platform in the middle, covered 
by a sort of prairie schooner canopy. They are 
from twenty-five to thirty feet long, with the highest 
part of the body only a few inches above the water. 
Each raft carries from four to six people besides 
the natives who manipulate it. Altogether we had a 
flotilla of twelve rafts. This is the only means of 
communication with Abra Province, and is the same 
today as it was a hundred and fifty years ago. All 
our soldiers with their supplies have gone in this 
way. Though but twenty-four miles distant it is an 
all day ride, the current making it a constant fight. 
The motive power is the native ; sometimes they pull 
and sometimes push; then they tow from the bank, 
and again when crossing the river in deep water they 
row with broad paddles. The river cuts the moun- 
tain range and furnishes magnificent scenery, while 
the actions of our men and the sights along the shore 
kept our interest from flagging. 

[297] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Bangued is an interesting old place, and at one 
time was quite a center. The population is a mixed 
one, consisting of Ilocanos, Tinguianes, and Igorotes. 
We were quartered with the military, there being 
eight companies here. Six of us — LeRoy, Carpen- 
ter, Morris, Dr. Kruger, Mr. Calvin, and I — are 
with Dr. McKay and Lieutenant Knight, and it is 
a lively crowd. 



August i8, igoi. 
Bangued is on the ragged edge of things civilized, 
and revived memories of the Benguet trip. Their 
market square this morning was thronged with a 
heterogeneous mass of humanity, and the crowd that 
gathered later to hear the gospel of free govern- 
ment was but little less mixed. There appeared to 
be an unanimous desire for civil government, though 
it is doubtful if many of those present knew just 
what it meant. The president of one town said 
he had paid the school teacher from his personal 
funds and wanted to know how he could get his 
money back, as there were but two pesos in the treas- 
ury. It was in this province that Lieutenant Gill- 
more and his companions were held prisoners so 
long. Colonel Villamer, former insurrecto leader, 
took part in the meeting and was appointed Pro- 
vincial Secretary. Major Bowen, commanding the 
detachment, was made Governor. The people are 
such a medley, and the province so poor, that the 
establishment of a regular government is something 

[298] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

of an experiment. It will give them something to 
think about, however, and it gratifies their pride. 
There was a band concert in the evening, as also 
some vocal selections by local celebrities. Later 
there was a gathering at our quarters and we had 
music of our own. 



August iQf igoi. 
Today we descended the Abra, took ship once 
more, and are now well on our way to Laoag, capital 
of Ilocos Norte. We were up before six, not alto- 
gether rested, and at seven-thirty were at the river 
landing. We made the descent in less than four 
hours, the current sweeping our little rafts along at 
a great pace. In a number of places the rapids were 
quite swift, the water covering all but the center of 
our craft. We did not stop at Vigan, but continued 
to the river's mouth, where we took launch to the 
ship. The passage was a rough one, those of the 
party given to avoirdupois finding the transfer from 
the launch to a small boat and from thence to the 
ship anything but a picnic. McDonnell missed his 
footing and fell between the boats, but fortunately 
grabbed the side in falling and was pulled out in 
time. The possibility of mishap remained strong, 
however, until the last man was aboard. The sea 
has a nasty roll and many of the crowd are sick. 
We are dubious about the landing at Laoag tomor- 
row, which has no semblance of a port. 

[299] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Laoag, August 20, igoi. 
We anchored early about a mile off the mouth of 
the Pagsan River. The day was clear, and we could 
see the great breakers, crested with foam, tumbling 
across the bar. Our captain said no boat could live 
through them, but he said the same thing at Vigan, 
and yet we made the landing. General Bell accom- 
panied us, bringing one of his large quartermaster 
launches. This latter ventured as near the breakers 
as possible and then whistled for about five minutes. 
Presently there came creeping over the waters a long 
native ^rao, or barangay, thin and snake-like, 
manned by twenty rowers, who slowly fought their 
way over the mounting waves into the comparative 
calm near the ship. After some debate it was decided 
to make a try for it, and the three Commissioners, 
General Bell, Seiior Legarda, Mr. Fergusson, Mc- 
Donnell, McCormick, Adamson, and myself were 
elected for the first venture. The Commissioners 
sat in the stern, while the rest of us with the baggage 
were In the body of the craft, the oarsmen being 
lined up on either side of the bow. We were soon 
among the breakers and the fun began. First the 
stern would tip up and then the bow, the rowers 
working furiously as the boat settled. As each suc- 
ceeding wave towered behind It was a gamble 
whether It would break as It reached us or pass 
underneath. Three, four, five times we rode the 
solid crest safely, only to fall a victim to the sixth. 
This broke as it reached the stern, and a compact 
mass of green water shot forward, completely delug- 

[300] 




M 




THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

ing the three Commissioners and wetting all of us. 
This was the beginning of our troubles. The rowers, 
for some reason, lost their stroke, and the boat, 
instead of being held head on, began to swing into 
the trough of the waves. General B^ll rushed for- 
ward and yelled at the men to "sigue, sigue" ; 
Adamson climbed on some baggage and beat time 
with his arms, trying to give them the stroke; in the 
meantime the helmsman was also singing his orders 
and cursing the men. After some fumbling they set- 
tled to their work heroically and gradually swung 
the thing back into line, not, however, until two or 
three waves struck us, setting the baggage afloat 
and soaking us to the skin. Had that boat not been 
righted before it caught the full force of those 
breakers side on, the chances are there would have 
been big headlines in the States papers in the morn- 
ing, with obituary notices of varying length. With 
that surf running we would have swamped dead sure, 
and I doubt if any swimmer could have lived in such 
sea and undertow. 

We made the landing finally, a dilapidated bunch, 
and were met by a variety of conveyances for the 
four-mile drive to Laoag. Our clothes dried fairly 
well en route, and we proceeded direct to the session 
hall. We were delayed half an hour, however, wait- 
ing for Judge Ide to dry his shirt. Shortly after- 
ward the second installment of our party got in, 
having fortunately made the landing without acci- 
dent. 

Our original schedule called for leaving today, 

[301] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

but as the surf Is usually higher In the afternoon, It 
was decided to remain in Laoag overnight. At noon, 
however, a wire was received telling of a typhoon 
brewing off the northeast coast of Luzon. As this, 
possibly, meant our being cooped In Laoag for a 
week or more unless we got away at once, it was 
decided to return to th'e ship before nightfall. The 
Commission had some trouble in deciding upon its 
appointees, and. Instead of getting away at four, as 
expected. It was five-thirty before the meeting ad- 
journed and a start was made for the landing. It 
was the evil luck of some of us — Carpenter, LeRoy, 
Schlotfeldt, Calvin, Morris, and I — to get a driver 
who knew nothing of the road and little about driv- 
ing. We had a four-mule team, and the first move 
of our driver was to go half a mile beyond the river 
crossing. It developed finally that he didn't know 
where the ford was, and considerable delay resulted 
In getting Information. After we did cross, he took 
the long way round, adding a couple of unnecessary 
miles. He showed no disposition to hurry, and, 
having no whip, the mules also took their own time. 
We were still over a mile out at sunset, with a dark 
bank of clouds working up from the south. A bit 
further on we met the vehicles which had carried 
the rest of the party. General Bell was quite sur- 
prised when he saw us, and told us to hurry. He 
detailed an officer to return with us, who succeeded 
in Infusing a little life Into our driver — and the 
other mules. Reaching the river, we found the 
others already gone and only a small barangay with 

[302] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

some eight rowers at the pier. Night had now 
fallen, a pale moon and a few stars shining along 
the edge of the rising storm clouds. We started 
down the river at once, urging the rowers to their 
best, but they were too few to make rapid headway. 
Reaching the mouth of the river, where the swell 
began and the boom of the breakers grew louder, 
our oarsmen turned about and flatly refused to go 
further, saying they were too few to ride the surf. 
As none of them understood either Spanish or Eng- 
lish, it made the situation quite exasperating. Just 
at this time, when the outlook was most discourag- 
ing, the praos which had carried the others loomed 
darkly on the waves, returning from the ship. We 
hailed them, and with considerable diificulty pre- 
vailed on one of them to take us aboard. They 
didn't want to return, and it is doubtful if they 
would have done so had not a soldier happened 
aboard, who simply pushed those overboard who 
showed reluctance, replacing them with others. Four 
new men were drafted, and we started with twenty 
rowers. To cheer us on our way the soldier (who 
did not return) said that the others came near 
drowning, and that everybody had gotten wet. Out 
we went, however, the tops of the waves looming 
white through the gathering darkness and the roar 
of the surf filling our ears. This time, however, 
there was no wavering on the part of crew or cap- 
tain. Whether nerved by the night and danger, or 
profiting by their previous trips, we rode the giant 
waves swiftly and safely, only one splash of water 

[303] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

coming aboard. We fared better than the others. 
They made the trip in two sections, one of the praos 
being nearly swamped, while the other had a hole 
stove in the bottom and was only kept from sinking 
by McCormick taking off his clothes and stopping 
the leak with them. Altogether they had a serious 
and almost tragic time of it. We were not missed 
until noses were counted aboard, and then our delay 
was unaccountable. They doubted we would ven- 
ture out after nightfall, and their surprise was great 
when we showed up. Owing to the threatened 
typhoon it was imperative that the ship get away^ 
and had we been delayed another half hour, they 
would have sailed without us. Thus are provincial 
governments organized in the Philippines. 



August 21, igoi. 
The scheduled storm did not break, and we 
anchored off Aparri early this morning beneath a 
cloudless sky. Aparri is at the extreme north of 
Luzon, at the mouth of the Cayagan River, one of 
the largest streams of the Archipelago. More than 
half the large tobacco crop of the islands is grown 
in the Cayagan Valley, which Is noted for its fertil- 
ity and richness. The Compariia Tabacalera has 
big interests here, and maintains a line of boats on 
the river, one of which is to take us on our two 
days' journey Inland. Aparri Itself Is on a jutting 
sand point reaching out Into the ocean, and does not 
Impress one as a very desirable place to live. 

[304] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

Shortly after eight we transferred to the river 
steamer and started up the Cagayan. All day long 
we steamed up that magnificent waterway, the green, 
luxuriant valley to either side, flanked by the dark 
hills beyond. The air was fresh, the chairs com- 
fortable, the lunch good — a perfect day and a per- 
fect scene, furnishing a restful change from the 
stress of the days just gone. We saw considerable 
native life, both in passing boats and in the little 
villages along the banks. Most of the people were 
gathered on the shore as we passed, the local band 
being always in attendance. 

We reached the Tuguegarao landing shortly after 
sunset, followed by a four-mile drive to the town. 
Some delay was experienced in assigning the party, 
as the commanding officer had not been advised of 
our number. The German Consul, Mr. Calvin, 
Morris, and I found a home with the head of the 
Alhambra Tobacco Company, who entertained us 
royally. 



August 22, igoi. 
Tuguegarao, capital of the Cagayan province, 
took a holiday today. Our session was an interest- 
ing one, with plenty of local color. The people were 
rather a superior lot, and followed the proceedings 
closely. There has been little real trouble in the 
province. A large banquet and baile were had in 
the evening, giving the feminine portion of the town 
a chance to shine. Some thirty of them were out, 
arrayed in all the gorgeousness of Filipino finery. 

[305] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

August 2^, igoi. 

We were up at five today, but, despite the early 
hour, the river bank was crowded when we made our 
start for Ilagan, capital of Isabela. We took break- 
fast on the boat and it would be hard to Imagine a 
more delightful environment. The broad river, the 
green valley, and the white, drifting clouds against 
the background of the mountains furnished an Ideal 
setting. There is a grandeur about this river that 
inspires one. Today, as yesterday, the little villages 
en route had built arches and were down In force to 
watch us go by. They had expended considerable 
time and money on their decorations, and our con- 
tribution seemed very inadequate. 

As we sailed along we saw great stretches of 
country entirely without sign of cultivation. This 
wonderful valley, richer in its potentialities of wealth 
than the delta of the Nile or the fertile plains of the 
Ganges, is practically uninhabited. Its few towns 
and villages are peopled largely by importations 
from the Ilocos and other provinces, brought In 
originally to work upon the scattered tobacco estates, 
formerly a government monopoly. The conception 
held by many that the Philippines have the congested 
population usual in Oriental countries is altogether 
erroneous. The approximate population of the Phil- 
ippines is about sixty-six to the square mile, as com- 
pared to three hundred and fifty In Java, two hun- 
dred and ninety In Japan, and two hundred In India. 
Less than thirty-five per cent of the land In the 
islands is even claimed in private ownership, it being 

[306] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

estimated that there still remain under sta:te control 
over seventy million acres of virgin land. It is an 
empire of unlimited possibilities, awaiting only the 
magic touch of capital and enterprise to yield untold 
treasure. 

We reached Ilagan shortly after two, the plan 
being to drive to the hacienda of the Tabacalera 
Company (some eight miles out), spend the night 
there, and return to Ilagan in the morning. We were 
advised, however, that many of the delegates had 
been in town over three days, and had made prep- 
arations to entertain us that evening. Our program 
was changed accordingly, and, khaki-clad and travel- 
stained, as we were, we drove direct to the place of 
meeting. 

The afternoon was hot — indeed, one of the hot- 
test we have experienced on any of our trips. The 
session was held in the home of the president, 
where the people packed in suffocating numbers. As 
Governor Taft and associates ascended the steps 
flowers were scattered upon them, and two or three 
enterprising sehoritas opened some bottles of per- 
fume and deluged them with the contents. Taken 
in small doses, it may have been good perfume, but 
in quantities it was a vile stuff and made the recipi- 
ents smell for the afternoon like a wrecked drug 
store. The session lasted some three hours, and 
hot is no name for it. The principal topic was 
whether Nueva Vizcaya should be united with Isa- 
bela. It was later decided not to unite the prov- 
inces, as the mixed character of the peoples of Nueva 

[307] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Vizcaya made a special form of government neces- 
sary. 

The entertainment of our party was taken in hand 
by the natives. One family had arranged to enter- 
tain the three Commissioners, Mr. Fergusson, and 
myself. Two rooms had been set aside, one with 
three beds and the other with two. Commissioners 
Worcester and Ide shied at the proposition. Gov- 
ernor Taft accepted, however, and Mr. Fergusson, 
Mr. Carpenter, and I filled in. The beds were 
gorgeous affairs, almost too fine to sleep in. There 
was the usual banquet and baile, though the night 
was too warm for the best results in dancing. 



August 24, igoi. 

Today has been hot and strenuous, but interest- 
ing. The morning session lasted but an hour, there 
being nothing to do but make the appointments to 
office. We started immediately afterward for the 
hacienda " San Antonio," property of the Tabaca- 
lera Company. Some of the crowd drove in ambu- 
lances, the rest going on horseback. The road was 
a rough one, and the sun beat down mercilessly. 
Our mounts were regular farm horses and galloped 
like cows. The detachment here is one of mounted 
infantry, and the men know absolutely nothing about 
horses. I have ridden many brands of cahallos, but 
never one whose gait was so fearfully up and down 
as the one I rode today. 

The hacienda contains about seventeen thousand 
acres, being the largest of the estates owned by the 

[308] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

company in this valley. The manager's house is a 
two-story structure with a wide veranda and over- 
looks miles of plain and bottom land. All the em- 
ployees (and the estate supports a veritable colony) 
had gathered to witness our coming, there being the 
customary arches, bands, flags, etc. All the local 
managers from up and down the valley were present, 
making quite a gathering. Tiffin was served on the 
veranda, and there was nothing lacking in the way 
of food and drink. Naturally there was nothing 
lacking in the smoking line. It was a cosmopolitan 
crowd, many of those present having spent the better 
part of their lives in the Far East, with a knowledge 
of Oriental problems and peoples gained at first 
hand. Later we visited the tobacco warehouses and 
had many new things explained to us. Truth to tell, 
however, our party was pretty well tired out. Lack 
of sleep, banquets and bailes, new people and places, 
rapid changes, the heat, etc., had begun to tell. Some 
of the crowd started back in the ambulances before 
dinner, among them a few of our ambitious horse- 
men of earlier in the day. It had been arranged 
for the Commissioners and a few other heavy- 
weights to go down the river by moonlight, after 
dinner. Five of us decided to see the thing through 
on horseback, even if we had to stand to eat our 
meals for a week. We had a big spread in the eve- 
ning, but did not tackle it with the avidity of the mid- 
day meal. Among the dishes was some " alligator 
steak," the said alligator having been killed during 
the afternoon. Most of us approached it with diffi- 

[309] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

dence, but nearly everyone tried it. When ready 
to leave we found that our escort had been enter- 
tained not wisely but too well and were all drunk. 
Morris, Schlodtfeldt, Carpenter, LeRoy, and I 
started off alone. I succeeded in purloining a new 
horse, but he was little better than the old one. 
LeRoy also made a change, but fared worse. We 
started out at a gallop and beat over the road with- 
out slackening speed, making the ride in little over 
an hour. The night was a splendid moonlight one, 
but the conditions did not permit our observing its 
beauties closely. Considering the nature of the road, 
we were fortunate in getting through without acci- 
dent. We reached town tired, dusty, and covered 
with perspiration. 

On leaving the meeting that morning I had turned 
over to the vice-president a small valise containing 
various important papers — among them the record 
of all the provinces organized on this journey — tell- 
ing him to have it sent down to the house. When 
we got in — about eleven P. M. — the valise was not 
there. As we were scheduled to rise at 5 :30 in the 
morning and leave at six, the situation was not a 
happy one. I did not relish the idea of preparing 
the record of all those meetings from memory, which 
is about what I would have had to do if the grip 
was lost. Mr. Carpenter was for scouring the town 
for h at that hour. As everybody in the place was 
abed and asleep, I felt unequal to the excitement his 
project involved. I thought it better to get a little 
sleep and take a chance at it in the morning. 

[310] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

August 25, igoi. 

I got up this morning feeling as sore as Don 
Quixote after his encounter with the windmills. My 
first concern was for the missing valise. After stir- 
ring up a number of people, and getting them prop- 
erly excited, the valise was discovered at the house 
occupied by the other Commissioners. It was un- 
earthed just as we were starting for the landing. 

Having the current with us, we made the descent 
to Aparri in one day, reaching there at six in the 
evening. The ride was particularly pleasant, as we 
were all tired enough to loaf and thoroughly enjoy 
it We saw today several carabao rafts. They con- 
sist of four or five bamboo poles lashed together, to 
which the carabao is hitched. The family gets on 
the raft, stack their goods and chattels on their 
heads, and the carabao is started across the river, 
little more than his nose being above water. The 
people sit in the water up to their arms, their weight 
sinking the raft below the surface. 

Too high praise cannot be given Mr. Weber, 
manager of the Tobacco Company, for the manner 
in which he has arranged this river trip. The serv- 
ice has been perfect, and everything moved smoothly. 
We took dinner on the Aldecoa. There was some 
talk of an entertainment ashore, but it was unani- 
mously vetoed. 



Aparri, August 26, igoi. 
As Governor Taft had promised the people of 
Aparri to stop with them on the return trip, we all 

[311] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

went ashore this morning. Most elaborate prepara- 
tions had been made to receive us, and our reception 
was enthusiastic. Colonel Hood, who is in com- 
mand, seems to have inspired the confidence of the 
people and to have done good work among them. 
We went In procession from the landing through 
the town, finally stopping at Colonel Hood's quar- 
ters, where there was handshaking and speeches, 
followed later by a banquet and dancing. There 
was woe and disappointment, particularly among the 
ladles, when it was learned that we expected to leave 
at three o'clock. A bevy of them surrounded Judge 
Taft and begged and pleaded with him to stay until 
twelve that night. This was a rather unusual pro- 
ceeding for Filipino women, and made us think we 
were back home. They would all talk at once, and 
when Mr. Fergusson started to Interpret, they would 
break In on him before he was half through and 
simply overwhelm him with words. As to stay 
longer meant the loss of a day in our Itinerary, their 
pleading was in vain. We went aboard at three and 
sailed at four. Father Aglipay came near being left, 
the boat having to be stopped for him after it was 
under way. We do not reach Iba until tomorrow 
night, which gives us a chance to pull together, after 
our five days' hike up the river. 



August 28, igoi. 
Yesterday was spent at sea, the weather proving 
a decided improvement over the up-trip. Today we 

[312] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

succeeded in making a landing at Iba and organized 
a government for Zambales. The place is small, 
the province occupying a narrow strip between the 
coast range and the sea and being almost inaccessi- 
ble. It has but one good port, Subic, and its roads 
are miserable. Though within twelve hours of 
Manila by sea, the officers and men have not re- 
ceived any mail for a month. Few vessels have any 
occasion to stop at Iba, and, if they do, can seldom 
effect a landing. 

Our meeting today was the usual one, being held 
in the village church, furnishing a large, cool hall, 
better than most places we have visited. The people 
had planned a banquet for the evening, but we were 
compelled to go aboard early, before the sea became 
boisterous. A dinner was given at 2:30, and at 
4:30 we were safely aboard and bound for Manila. 
This will end our "Provincial Tours." Including 
Benguet, we have organized thirty-four provinces, 
and in our journeyings have visited and held ses- 
sions with the people of forty-three different places. 
Whatever may be the result of the work done, and 
however it may be viewed by different persons, it 
has been done with true motives and with an earnest 
and sincere desire to serve and help these people. 



Manila, August 29, igoi. 
We awoke today in Manila Bay, and it was good 
to see again the green frontage of the Malecon, the 
wide expanse of the Luneta, and the white and red 

[313] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

of the old Convento buildings in the Walled City. 
It is a picture that grows on one the more he be- 
comes saturated with the life of this country. At 
eight we had scattered to our different homes, unan- 
imous in saying we had had a great journey, but 
with no regrets that it was over. While the most 
interesting we have taken, it has also been the 
hardest. 



[314] 



-5*-f'^--. .- ' <>?-'^ 






ll^„- 



jpte 




CJ 




O 



XVI 

THE MACHINERY IN MOTION 

Manila, September ii, igoi. 
"IT /"E HAVE settled back once more to grinding 
' ' out laws, and to considering the multitudinous 
petitions and suggestions of a people more prolific 
in precept than in practice. Some of these petitions 
are literary curiosities, particularly those written in 
English. The method evidently employed is to first 
draft them in Spanish and then write above each 
word the dictionary equivalent in English, no account 
being taken of the different construction of the two 
languages. This literal rendering of the Spanish 
Is then copied and submitted for our enlightenment. 
One ardent writer, seeking to say that he was " sigh- 
ing" for liberty, picked the wrong equivalent for the 
Spanish word siispirar (to sigh) and said he was 
gaping for liberty. 

The tariff bill prepared by the Commission, and 
sent to Washington for suggestion, has been re- 
turned with some few changes. It has been consid- 
ered in executive session for the past two days, and 
public discussion commences this morning; this will 
likely last three or four days. Mr. W. Morgan 

[315] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Shuster, the new Collector of Customs, brought the 
bill from Washington and is assisting in the discus- 
sion. With him came Mr. Charles A. Conant, an 
expert on coinage and banking, who is to prepare a 
report on the currency situation of the islands. Cer- 
tainly something is necessary to relieve us of the 
present chaotic condition of our money. After this 
comes the Criminal Code and Code of Criminal Pro- 
cedure, prepared by Commissioner Wright, which 
it will likely take some time to whip into popular 
shape. In addition to this current work, the Com- 
mission is supposed to have its Annual Report ready 
to forward on October fifteenth, so that it may reach 
Washington in time for reference to Congress De- 
cember first. This report is to include not only a 
resume of what has been done during the year, but 
also recommendations covering future Congres- 
sional action. This latter feature may have far- 
reaching consequences, and cannot be done between 
two days. 

Interest during the past two weeks has centered 
somewhat on the six hundred teachers who arrived 
on the Thomas. They are quartered in some nipa 
buildings on the Exposition grounds, and are getting 
their first taste of pioneering. They are being dis- 
tributed to the provinces as rapidly as possible, and 
there has been some weeping over the assignments. 
Well, they are not in for any further picnic. Thus 
far they have had a good time, for it is no small 
experience to most of them — that trip across the 
States, the stop in San Francisco, the ride across the 

[316] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

Pacific, and the new and strange life of Manila. 
The chances are they will find existence in the small 
interior pueblos, where there will be few if any 
Americans besides themselves, and where they will 
have none of the comforts and social diversions to 
which they are used, altogether different from what 
they pictured. The life is apt to grow deadly monot- 
onous, and it will take something of the missionary 
and of the Spartan to enable them to stick it out. 
Their opportunities for doing good work are great, 
however. The cry has gone up all over the land 
for schools and school teachers, and, if they exercise 
tact and Intelligence, their Influences in moulding the 
thought of the people will be extraordinary. I have 
no doubt many of them will rise to their oppor- 
tunities, and the future will mark their greatness. 

The addition of Messrs. Tavera, Legarda, and 
Luzuriaga to the Commission on September first 
has undoubtedly created a good Impression among 
the people. Tavera and Legarda speak English 
fairly well, but Sr. Luzuriaga does not. This ren- 
ders our sessions (executive) rather tedious, as 
everything said must be interpreted. I believe the 
move to be a good one, however. 

There has been considerable agitation among the 
Filipinos recently over the organization of new 
political parties. They are never so happy as when 
mixing In politics, and as they all want to be at the 
head of something, It requires numerous parties to 
satisfy them. The Federal Party, the first organ- 
ized, has the advantage of being early in the field 

[317] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

and of representing the sane and sober element of 
the community. As opposed to this there sprang 
up the " Conservative " Party, whose exact political 
creed I have never been able to fathom. A Senor 
Poblete has now launched what is known as the 
"National Party," which has, though rather veiled, 
the ultimate design of securing the independence of 
the islands under a protectorate. The whole busi- 
ness appears somewhat ridiculous — this organizing 
of parties before there is a government, and before 
they really know what the designs of the United 
States toward them are. 

In his speech upon swearing in the new Commis- 
sioners, Governor Taft spoke rather plainly to these 
professional party organizers. He said the Amer- 
ican Government was not opposed to political par- 
ties, for it recognized that it was through them the 
various sentiments of the people found expression. 
He did think, however, that the time was not ripe 
here to indulge in "theories of government." He 
said the Commission was laboring day and night try- 
ing to bring order out of chaos; that these party 
organizers, engaged in developing beautiful ideals^ 
had better put their shoulders to the wheel and help 
place the present system on a firm basis. If they 
found fault with the laws which were being passed 
by the Commission, let them offer amendments and 
changes, or suggest other legislation which they 
thought would assist in accomplishing the result at 
which the Commission was aiming; then, after a 
stable government was organized, and after peace 

[318] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

and order and tranquillity had been achieved, they 
might develop their theories as to what an ideal gov- 
ernment should be. Now the question was a prac- 
tical one and not one for dreaming. It was a good 
talk and came with a jolt to some of these would-be 
statesmen. 

What they all want is office, and their personal 
feelings and interests are always paramount. While 
their professions are of the best — and frequently 
their intentions at the time — they are easily swayed 
in their opinions, and it is impossible to tell at 
what unexpected place they will break out next. 
They lose sight of practical things in chasing rain- 
bows and shadows, and without a strong hand to 
guide them and direct their energies would be apt to 
fly off at a tangent. Our hardest task here will be 
to save these people from themselves. Their ten- 
dency is to want things too soon. If much is given 
them, they cry for more, with the chance that they 
will get it and by misuse give room to say that they 
are incapable of any measure of self-government. 
The danger is not that we will give the Filipinos too 
little, but that we will give them too much at this 
stage of their development. 

The last few days brought us news of the at- 
tempted assassination of President McKinley. It 
came with a terrible shock here, as it must every- 
where. Our latest news is encouraging and holds 
out the prospect of recovery. We trust it may be 
so, and that his assassin, and all like him, may be 
exterminated. 

[319] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Manila, October i, igoi. 
The same pace is still being set in our work, with 
October sixteenth, when the Annual Report of the 
Commission is to be forwarded, as a temporary goal. 
The account of the provincial organization is to be 
included, and I have no alternative but to dig it out 
of my notes. I have ten or twelve provinces left, 
and it seems impossible to find time to condense them 
for the record. We are still waiting for stenogra- 
phers, and have gone into the byways and hedges 
trying to borrow or steal them. Governor Taft is 
ill, and is doing most of his work in bed. I have a 
slight attack of malaria, and my voice has a habit 
of running down to a whisper early in the afternoon. 
The work has been hard and continuous now for 
over a year, the Commission having taken active 
charge September first, 1900. It is difficult to esti- 
mate what has been done in that time and is now 
doing. In legislative work alone some two hundred 
and forty-eight laws have been passed, most of them 
having to be shaped to meet new and untried condi- 
tions. A new government is being created from the 
ground up, piece being added to piece as the days and 
weeks go by. It is an interesting phenomenon, this 
thing of building a modern commonwealth on a 
foundation of medievalism — the giving to this 
country at one fell swoop all the innovations and 
discoveries which have marked centuries of Anglo- 
Saxon push and energy. I doubt if in the world's 
history anything similar has been attempted; that 
is, the transplanting so rapidly of the ideas and 

[320] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

improvements of one civilization upon another. The 
whole fabric is being made over; scarcely anything is 
left as it was. Having started to mend the machin- 
ery, we have found that all the parts must be re- 
placed in order to make the thing move. No doubt 
the pace is a little warm for these people, but, having 
entered the course, there is nothing left now but to 
run the race. 

The trials and tribulations involved can hardly be 
appreciated by those not on the ground. Aside from 
the material upon which we have to work — "half 
devil and half child" — there is the other heart- 
breaking condition — lack of proper tools. To 
spring a full-blown system of government on so 
large a population as this requires many men to 
operate the different parts, and the hardest thing to 
encounter today, as in the days of Diogenes, is a 
perfectly capable and honest man. Provinces are 
started on their way, the people eager and anxious 
for the blessings they imagine are to flow from 
civil government; some incompetent person, either 
through lack of tact or principle, brings the whole 
scheme into discredit, and the people become sullen 
and reactionary. 

The best men found available anywhere have been 
used for official positions, and most have proven 
conscientious and capable — but some have not. We 
are on trial before these people, if not before the 
world, and it comes hard to see the work hampered 
and delayed through the selfishness and incompe- 
tency of individuals. Giving due credit to our 

[321] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

friends the military for suppressing the insurrection, 
they have assisted little in that wider work under- 
taken by our government of winning these people 
to a sympathetic cooperation in bringing orderly gov- 
ernment out of the chaos resulting from years of 
war and disrupted industry. They hang on to their 
dictatorial powers as though that was the end of 
government. The Commission has maintained no 
press agent, either here or at home, and the criti- 
cisms of its work and policy have remained largely 
unanswered. The American public, so far as it has 
concerned itself at all with the problem here, has 
apparently taken the attitude that we are unduly 
restricting the liberties and privileges of a struggling 
people. 

Such persons know little or nothing about the 
actual situation, and, while capable of being im- 
mensely practical where their personal or private 
interests are concerned, they can be the most fool- 
ishly sentimental and impractical when treating of 
the interests of others. 

Despite all obstacles, however, a tremendous 
change has been worked in the sentiment of these 
people toward our sovereignty during the past year. 
I sincerely believe that the great majority of them 
are now convinced that we are not here to exploit 
them, and are earnest in our desire to advance their 
interests, both politically and materially. In any esti- 
mate of this remarkable transformation of opinion, 
too much stress cannot be placed upon the personal- 
ity of the Commission, and particularly upon that of 

[322] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

Governor Taft, its President. With a people accus- 
tomed to relying little upon what is told them, but 
a great deal upon the manner of the teUing, the 
influence of his genial smile and hearty laugh, his 
patience, his sincerity, his tact, and his evident inter- 
est in their welfare, has counted more in winning 
their cooperation and good will than all the procla- 
mations which could have been issued. They have 
learned to know that what he says is true, and that 
from first to last he has labored and is laboring for 
them, placing their interests and their wishes, so far 
as possible, above all else. To few has it been given 
to conquer in so short a time the hostility and antag- 
onism of practically a whole race, and to transform 
into affectionate regard the distrust of a beaten 
people. Our country can never be sufficiently than'k- 
ful that he was appointed to lead the destinies of 
these islands during this transition period. He has 
impressed his personality upon the situation, and 
given a trend to the current of affairs which can 
never be altogether changed, and which will redound 
to the benefit of the Filipino people and to the credit 
of our country through all time. 

Since my last was written the news of President 
McKInley's death came to us. It has been felt here 
keenly, both by Americans and natives, for I believe 
'the Filipinos had come to feel that their Interests 
were near to the heart of the President. While I 
do not think our general policy here will be affected, 
the possibility of It just at this time of nation build- 
ing is unfortunate. 

[323] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

U. S. Transport Sheridan, 
En Route Manila to Nagasaki, 

October 20, igoi. 

When you receive this letter I will be close behind 
It. That this Is so cannot be more of a surprise to 
you than It Is to me. It has all come about through 
the Annual Report of the Commission. Work as the 
Commission would upon It, the sailing date of the 
transport drew nigh with much yet to be done. It 
was imperative, however, that It be In the hands of 
the Secretary of War before the meeting of Con- 
gress on December second. As I had about reached 
the stage where a vacation of some kind was neces- 
sary, Governor Taft asked me If I would take 
charge of getting the report back to Washington, 
using the time en route to put the thing In order. 
The War Department had also Instructed that a 
secretary be furnished Mr. Charles A. Conant, the 
financial expert, as far as San Francisco, to assist In 
preparing his report on coinage and banking for the 
Islands. Needless to say, I needed no urging to act 
as messenger for that report or as aide to Mr. 
Conant. I had a day and a half's notice, but half a 
day would have been ample. 

Our transport sailed at noon on the sixteenth. It 
was eleven o'clock that morning, however, before 
the Commissioners finally signed their report and 
the manuscript, with Its mass of exhibits, was turned 
over to me. It was truly the " eleventh hour." 

I am supposed to be back in Manila within ninety 

[324] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

days. I have spent most of the first three of them 
sleeping, but am confident the next eighty-seven will 
furnish their share of interest and excitement. It is 
good to be headed for the "Golden Gate" again, 
with its vision of old friends, theaters, restaurants, 
and all those sights and sounds which time and dis- 
tance have a tendency to halo with a light "never 
seen on sea or land." 

We have aboard the transport a number of the 
"Congressional Party" which has been visiting the 
islands — among them, DeArmand of Missouri, 
Caines of Tennessee, Weeks of Michigan, and Mer- 
cer of Nebraska. They have been out to "learn 
the truth on the ground." They took a trip about 
the islands on a government transport, and pre- 
sumably saw and talked to much the same people. 
Before leaving Manila two of them, representing 
different political beliefs, became so surcharged with 
ideas that they were able to spare a few pearls for 
those of us condemned to remain. Witness, how- 
ever, the strange transmutation of truth as they had 
gained it in company. One of them said the Filipino 
people were "nothing but savages with a thin veneer 
of civilization." This was rather unkind of him, 
considering his exalted station. They had a cham- 
pion, however. In the Congressman with the Metho- 
dist handle to his name, who took his brother 
representative to task and expressed it as his belief 
that the country was simply "swarming with latent 
Fred Douglasses awaiting the beneficent rays of 
Democracy to burst into bloom." The controversy 

[325] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

was later carried into the newspapers, much to the 
edification of the old inhabitants. It was of a visit- 
ing statesman called " Pagett, M. P.," who had come 
to India to settle in a few months its century-old 
problems, that Kipling wrote : 

"And I laughed as I drove from the station, but the mirth 

died out on my lips, 
As I thought of the fools like Pagett who write of their 

' Eastern Trips;' 
And the sneers of the travelled idiots who duly misgovern 

the land. 
And I prayed the Lord to deliver another one into my hand." 



[3^6] 



XVII 

TWELVE YEARS LATER 

Manila, April, 1913. 
A DECADE and more has passed since the 
■^ events described in the preceding chronicle. It 
is a long time in the life of an individual, but a short 
time in the life of a people. Death and far places 
have called most of the little group who then shared 
our "Philippine problem," but the problem itself 
remains, to all intents, unchanged. Now, as then, 
one of our great parties is seeking to make an 
"Issue" of the Philippines, and Filipino radicals are 
crying for independence with the same cheerful dis- 
regard of consequences that marked Mabini's appeal 
in 1900. Americans who have given of their life 
and thought to this work decry any change in our 
present policy; anti-imperialists and political trad- 
ers in the States, whose experience is bounded by 
parlor cars and hotel lobbies, declaim about "the 
consent of the governed" and then spank their chil- 
dren for applying the principle in the home. It 
would all be a matter for mirth were it not that a 
helpless people, and the honor and good faith of a 
great nation, are the pawns being played for per- 
sonal and partisan ends. 

[327] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

This chapter Is supposed to set down in orderly 
fashion some record of what has transpired here 
during the past twelve years. All that can be hoped 
is that it will encourage an impartial inquiry by those 
desirous of knowing the truth. The writer claims 
no authority other than that which comes from long 
residence In the islands and a more or less active 
participation In Philippine affairs. He Is no longer 
in government employ, and holds no brief for any 
person or party — his sole purpose being to give 
form to what he feels to be common knowledge to 
those who have shared his experiences. 

In any discussion of the problem here fronting 
the United States, it is well to emphasize certain 
facts which some of our countrymen have apparently 
forgotten. The first of these is that our being in the 
Philippines Is not the act of any class or party, but 
represents the will of the American people. Our 
war with Spain was not a partisan affair, but resulted 
from the pressure of an almost unanimous public 
sentiment. The taking of Manila, which was a log- 
ical outcome of that war, roused our people to the 
highest enthusiasm. The sending of American troops 
to the islands, both to prosecute the war against 
Spain and to preserve public order thereafter, met 
scarcely a dissenting voice. The outbreak of the 
Philippine insurrection — being a protest of at least 
certain elements of the people against our occupa- 
tion — occurred February 4, 1899, before our Sen- 
ate, by a non-party vote, approved the Treaty of 
Paris, thus confirming our title to the Islands and 

[328] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

ratifying the action theretofore taken by President 
McKinley under his war power. Record hath it 
that Mr. Bryan, the apostle of Democracy, was 
quite active in bringing about this result. 

Another popular error is that the Philippines have 
cost, and are costing, the United States, "untold mil- 
lions" of dollars, for which some person or policy is 
to blame. As the destruction of Spanish sovereignty 
in the islands was a natural outcome of our war with 
that country, so, too, the restoration of orderly gov- 
ernment thereafter was a duty owing not only to the 
mass of the Filipinos, but to the world at large. The 
money thus spent constitutes a legitimate debit 
against our war with Spain, and should not be en- 
tered as a charge for which the islands, or some 
particular policy concerning them, are responsible. 
Normal conditions having been restored, the only 
direct outlay since Incurred by the home government 
has been the slightly increased expense of maintain- 
ing some fifteen to twenty thousand troops in the 
islands to what It would cost in the States. This is 
more than compensated, however, by the greater 
efficiency of our soldiers, and of the army generally, 
acquired through the experiences of this semi-foreign 
service. 

To the above item some would possibly add money 
spent in enlarging our navy, and in building island 
defenses. Eliminating the Philippines, however, we 
still have the Hawaiian Islands, Alaska, Guam, an 
extended Pacific coast Ime, and the Panama Canal, 
quite an argument in themselves for our naval pro- 

[329] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

gram. Money spent in fortifying naval bases and 
coaling stations can scarcely be termed wasteful, as 
these would be retained whatever action we take. 

As to the internal administration of the islands, 
all expenditures for such account are met now, and 
have been met since the beginning, from insular rev- 
enues. The truth is that whatever money was spent 
in restoring a stable government here could not in 
decency have been avoided, while the burden to the 
United States thereafter has been and is trivial. All 
this is so easily verified as to cause surprise at the 
prevailing ignorance of the fact. 

Others of our people say the Philippines " do not 
pay." That our self-respect as a nation is involved, 
or that we have deliberately assumed obligations 
before the world, mean nothing to these persons. 
Their horizon is bounded by dollars and cents, and 
because these are not immediately forthcoming they 
would scuttle like rats from a sinking ship. Of 
much the same type are those alarmists who pretend 
to see in our occupation of the islands some sort of 
menace to the government builded by the fathers. It 
is the same old cry which has gone up since the 
boundaries of the original Thirteen States were first 
pushed westward. The purchase of Florida and 
Louisiana, the annexation of Texas, the gradual 
extension of our frontier to the Pacific, and then on 
to Alaska and the Hawaiian Islands, all gave rise 
to these prophets of gloom, who reveled in pictures 
of national disaster following each addition to our 
domain. That all now laugh at the folly of these 

[330] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

"little Americans" deters not a whit this new crop 
of pessimists, who launch as new gospel all the time- 
worn arguments of their discredited predecessors. 

Our occupation of the Philippines was undertaken 
In altruism, and, critics to the contrary, all our work 
since has been directed to the regeneration of the 
islands and their people. For those who would 
measure the value of our new possessions from a 
purely selfish standpoint, however, it might be said 
our country could not well have been more fortunate. 
Students of affairs are unanimous that the center of 
world interest, political and commercial, has shifted, 
or is shifting, to the Pacific and to the countries 
which rib its shores. There dwell the bulk of earth's 
inhabitants, the vast majority of whom are but now 
awakening to the call of progress. The needs and 
wants and future destiny of these millions of people 
are agitating the chancelleries of the world, all of 
whom are striving for advantage In the present 
world-wide struggle for trade supremacy. Without 
our seeking, fate has thrust upon us this wonderful 
group of Islands, rich in every natural resource and 
lying at the very doors of all that vast population 
sweeping In almost unbroken chain from Vladivostok 
on the north to Australia on the south. Coupled 
with the Panama Canal, the Hawaiian Islands, and 
Guam, the Philippines furnish a line of communica- 
tion and of trade opportunity whose strategic Impor- 
tance in this new war of the future is unrivaled. 

Time was when orators could harp on the " splen- 
did Isolation" of our country and get a ready re- 

[331] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

sponse. With the growing need for world products 
and world markets, however, and the gradual devel- 
opment of a national spirit which refuses to accept 
the narrow provincialism of the past as a measure 
either of our obhgations or opportunities, that time 
has gone forever. We have a part to play in inter- 
national politics and policies which we could not 
escape if we would, and which none but fossils can 
regret or seek to stay. 

We acquired the Philippines through conquest and 
purchase. They were ours to do with as we pleased, 
and every historical precedent would have sanctioned 
their exploitation as a national asset. Instead, we 
voluntarily pledged the Filipino people that our ad- 
ministration of the country would be for their ben- 
efit and protection, and not for our own financial 
aggrandizement. 

We promised to give them — so far and as fast as 
possible — all those things which minister to the 
material, mental, and moral uplift of a people, to- 
gether with a constantly increasing participation in 
government as they developed capacity therefor. 
More than this could not reasonably have been de- 
manded by them, nor insisted upon by the most senti- 
mental or partisan of our people. Since then the 
years have set their seal upon our work, and we 
should be praised or blamed according as they tell 
of faith kept or broken. What the United States 
have done in the Philippines is an open book which 
all who will may read. I state unhesitatingly that 
we have kept the faith, and that neither here nor at 

[332] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

home is there just ground for complaint or criticism 
at the record which stands revealed. 

Upon the material side of the problem — the shap- 
ing of conditions which make for progress, enlighten- 
ment and well-being — the following summary of 
things done will give an idea how we have met the 
call upon us : 

Courts with a simplified procedure have been 
established, where justice is neither bought nor sold, 
and where rich and poor fare alike. 

Brigandage and lawlessness have been suppressed, 
and life and property are protected and respected as 
never before in the history of the Archipelago. 

The wild tribes of the Islands, who took heads 
and slaughtered each other without let or hindrance 
in the old days, have, under the wise supervision and 
guidance of Hon. Dean C. Worcester and his corps 
of heroic assistants^ entered upon ways of peace, 
Industry, and public order. It is a work the magni- 
tude of which is only beginning to be !appreclated 
even in the Philippines. 

An educational system has been perfected which 
offers to every Filipino child a free public school 
education. Nearly seven hundred thousand children 
are now enrolled, and English, with its store of lit- 
erary treasure. Is rapidly becoming the common lan- 
guage of the people. High schools and normal Insti- 
tutes, housed in modern buildings, are within the 
reach of all, and a Philippine University, with full 
literary and professional courses, has recently been 
organized. Manual training schools, which teach 

[333] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

not only useful trades, but also the dignity of labor, 
are being opened in constantly increasing numbers. 
Hundreds of Filipino students have been sent to the 
States at public expense, where they have received, 
and are receiving, the best technical training of our 
colleges. 

Health and quarantine services have been organ- 
ized whose work in forestalling epidemics. In freeing 
the islands from plague, smallpox, and other endemic 
diseases, and in teaching and enforcing sanitation 
and sanitary living among all classes, would alone 
justify our occupation. Manila has to her credit a 
new and complete sewerage system, an extended 
water service, an up-to-date General Hospital, and 
a Bureau of Government Laboratories whose investi- 
gations into the cause and cure of tropical diseases 
have given It front rank among the scientific institu- 
tions of the world. The lepers of the islands, for- 
merly scattered throughout the community, have 
been segregated, and are now well cared for on the 
Island of Culion. A determined fight, with every 
chance of success, Is being waged against tubercu- 
losis and infant mortality, the dread scourges of 
these people. The importation and smoking of 
opium have been prohibited, and a vice which threat- 
ened to fasten itself upon the islands Is being effec- 
tually eradicated. Modern markets, where cleanli- 
ness is the watchword, have replaced the unwhole- 
some and death-dealing plazas where food and drink 
were formerly sold, while artesian wells, furnishing 
that indispensable requisite for health In the tropics, 

[334] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

pure water, are now to be found in almost every 
municipality. 

Transportation facilities have been revolution- 
ized. The one hundred and twenty miles of railroad 
existing in 1898 have been increased to over seven 
hundred, with some six hundred miles in project and 
under construction. Nearly two thousand miles of 
macadam roads have been built, opening up the 
great interior of the country and making it possible 
for the people to market their products at a profit. 
The island waters have been sounded, charted, and 
studded with lighthouses, making navigation some- 
thing more than a lottery. Great port works have 
been completed in Manila, Cebu, Iloilo, and other 
places, furnishing safe anchorage and docking facil- 
ities for ocean-going vessels. Inter-island shipping 
has been fostered and encouraged, mail routes have 
been extended and cheapened, and the Archipelago 
laced with cable and telegraph lines. 

A comprehensive irrigation system, financed by 
the Government under an arrangement for eventual 
reimbursement, is being extended to various parts 
of the islands, with the certainty -of enormously 
increasing the agricultural output. 

A well-patronized Postal Savings Bank is in oper- 
ation, encouraging habits of industry and thrift 
among a people noted for their improvidence. A 
Government agricultural bank is also gradually 
relieving the lack of capital on the part of land- 
owners. 

Taxation has been equalized, and revenue is now 

[335] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

collected according to the means of the individual 
rather than according to class, as in former times. 
Despite the wide scope of Government activities, the 
per capita contribution is but two dollars and odd 
cents, being less than that of any civilized country 
in the world. 

A stable currency, based on gold, has replaced the 
mongrel and fluctuating medium which, upon our 
coming, made all business operations a gamble. 

The large Friar estates, which were a center of 
disturbance and discontent, have been purchased by 
the Government and are now being sold and leased 
to the occupants on easy terms. 

A Registration Act has been adopted (Torrens) 
which enables every owner of real property to secure 
a guaranteed title to his holdings in place of the 
questionable ownership heretofore applicable to 
most privately claimed lands. 

Forest regulations have been adopted which pro- 
tect this great source of island wealth from undue 
waste and destruction, and yet encourage capital in 
its exploitation. 

A Public Land Act has been enacted which enables 
every Filipino to acquire a free homestead, and 
they are encouraged to do so. 

Church and state have been divorced, and the 
people relieved of one of their greatest grievances 
under Spain. Freedom of worship, of speech, and 
of the press have been guaranteed — privileges which 
many Filipinos, in their sudden release from old 
restraints, are inclined to abuse. 

[336] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

Bilibid, the great island prison, has been trans- 
formed from a veritable death trap into an institu- 
tion which would serve as a model in any country. 
Criminals are taught useful trades, and, as a reward 
for meritorious conduct, are transferred to the self- 
governing and self-supporting penal colony of 
Iwahig, where every opportunity is given them to 
become useful citizens. 

Philippine imports have increased from $16,285,- 
044 In Spanish times to $61,667,901 in 1912, and 
exports from $20,457,279 to $54,784,738. Free 
trade applies upon all States' products coming to 
the Philippines, and upon all island products enter- 
ing the States except sugar and tobacco, iipon which 
a complaisant Congress placed a limitation at the 
behest of the sugar and tobacco trusts. 

There has been a general increase In salaries and 
wages, and the people are better fed, better housed, 
and better clothed than ever before. 

Baseball and tennis are becoming the national 
games of the country, and the rising generation not 
only bids fair to abandon the cock-pit as <a means of 
recreation, but to represent a type of physical devel- 
opment heretofore unknown among a Malay people. 

The list is a prosaic one — "the tale of common 
things" — but It will be found upon scrutiny to 
Include most of the things for which our fathers 
struggled through the centuries, and little if anything 
which the Filipinos could or would ihave achieved 
unaided. 

In the matter of granting the people a partlcipa- 

[337] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

tion in government as rapidly as they could be 
entrusted therewith, the following appears : 

Of the nine members of the Philippine Commis- 
sion, constituting the upper branch of the Philippine 
Legislature, four are Filipinos, one of whom is 
Secretary of Finance and Justice. 

The lower house, composed of eighty members 
and known as the "Assembly," is altogether Fili- 
pino, the delegates being elected by popular vote. 
All legislation except that relating to the Moro 
province and the wild tribes must now ^receive the 
sanction of this body. 

Of the seven members of the Supreme Court, 
three are Filipinos, one of whom is Chief Justice. 

The Attorney General of the islands is a Filipino, 
as are also a number of his assistants. 

Of the twenty-four Judges of the Courts of First 
Instance, twelve are Filipinos. 

Three of the five Judges of the Court of Land 
Registration are Filipinos. 

The Director of Labor and his assistant are Fili- 
pinos. 

The Judge of the Municipal Court of Manila is 
a Filipino. 

The Registrars of Deeds are all Filipinos. 

All the Justices of the Peace throughout ithe 
islands are Filipinos. 

The Governors of all the Christianized provinces, 
as also the third member of the Provincial Board, 
the governing body in the provinces, are Filipinos, 
elected by the people. 

[338] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

In Manila three of the six members of the Munic- 
ipal Board are Filipinos, one of whom is President 
of the board. 

The government of the various municipalities 
throughout the islands is purely autonomous, their 
officials being chosen by the community. 

Of the eight thousand three hundred and sixty 
teachers in the Bureau of Education, seven thousand 
six hundred and ninety-six are Filipinos, of whom 
six thousand six hundred and thirty-two are paid 
from municipal funds and one thousand and sixty- 
four from insular funds. 

Of the eight thousand nine hundred and eighty-six 
employes In the classified Civil Service, six thousand 
three hundred and sixty-three, or seventy-one t>er 
cent, are Filipinos. 

The islands also have two delegates in the United 
States Congress, both Filipinos, who are free to, 
agitate for independence or otherwise, as their per- 
sonal convictions or political fortun-^ may render 
expedient. 

Can anyone who dispassionately considers the 
foregoing say that we have not given full measure 
of performance in all that was promised these 
people ? It is easy to criticise and complain, but only 
the self-seeking or the prejudiced can refuse to rec- 
ognize in this record of twelve years' work some- 
thing unprecedented in colonial administration, of 
which our country may well be proud. 

The task has not been an easy one. To new and 
untried problems, an impoverished country, and 

[339] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

scant working material there was added a bitter war, 
with its heritage of antagonism, of lawlessness, of 
devastated fields, and the inertia incident to enforced 
Idleness and the breaking up of accustomed pursuits. 
During the early years of our occupation an epidemic 
of rinderpest swept over the provinces, destroying 
the herds of carabao and cattle, leaving the people 
destitute of work animals. Agriculture, the true 
source of wealth of the islands, was largely para- 
lyzed, and outside capital, which might have relieved 
the situation, was deterred from coming through the 
persistent agitation of theorists and politicians look- 
ing to our early surrender of the islands. 

The cooperation counted upon from the natives, 
once they had proof of our desire to help them, did 
not altogether materialize. Left to themselves, there 
is little question but that the vast majority would be 
perfectly content with the new opportunities offered, 
and the securities to life and property guaranteed by 
our rule. Unfortunately, however, they have not 
been left to themselves. From the very beginning a 
certain element among the people — from whom the 
masses receive their ideas — has systematically criti- 
cised and condemned everything American, and has 
apparently found nothing deserving of either praise 
or gratitude in all that has been done for the better- 
ment of their race. Either deliberately or through 
ignorance, they have shut their eyes to the wider 
aspects of the tremendous transformation worked in 
their condition, and have magnified every mistake or 
shortcoming of the government, and every pecca- 

[340] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

dillo of some subordinate official, into a mountain of 
injustice, over-shadowing every concession, privilege, 
or positive good accorded them through our occupa- 
tion. They have enthroned their so-called " political 
ideal" above the economic welfare of the bulk of 
their countrymen, whose interests they would will- 
ingly sacrifice for the i^nis fatiius of a questionable 
and uncertain independence. Such an attitude does 
not stimulate altruism, nor does it encourage in the 
belief that those giving expression thereto are de- 
serving of still greater privileges. If such critics 
would conscientiously contrast present-day conditions 
with their situation shortly before our coming, they 
might hesitate in their clamor for our precipitate 
withdrawal. What that former condition was has 
been graphically portrayed by their national hero, 
Rizal, in his great work. Noli me Tangere, and it is 
not one to be envied. With the gradual enlighten- 
ment of the masses the hold of these self-constituted 
spokesmen is diminishing, and will soon become a 
negligible quantity so far as obstructing the material 
development of these fast developing islands is 
concerned. 

Our troubles have not all been local, however. 
The Philippine Commission, in much of its work 
here, has been dependent upon Congressional action, 
to which body it was instructed to makes needful rec- 
ommendations. Congress, however, saturated with 
the expert knowledge of the Philippines acquired 
amid the environs of Pennsylvania Avenue, has 
chosen in many instances to either altogether ignore 

[341] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

these recommendations or to suppress and mutilate 
them at the behest of private interests. 

An earlier chapter details the sore straits of the 
Commission in attempting to relieve from the de- 
based currency formely in use. In 1900 a plan 
designed to remedy the evil was recommended 'to 
Congress. That body did nothing. It was repeated 
in 1 90 1, supported by the report of a financial expert. 
Congress simply haggled over it. In 1902 it was 
again urged, with the result that in 1903, after years 
of business chaos, the scheme as originally recom- 
mended in 1900 was adopted. 

For eleven years now the Commission has vainly 
pled with Congress to amend the mining code ex- 
tended by it to the islands, whereby individuals and 
corporations are limited to one claim on a vein or 
lode. The restriction is without precedent in mining 
law, and effectually blocks mining enterprise except 
through subterfuge and evasion. Another provision 
of the Philippines Bill, so absurd as to excite de- 
rision, is that which prohibits any person interested 
in an agricultural corporation from holding stock in 
a mining corporation, or vice versa. Such bill also 
provides that no corporation shall engage in buying 
and selling real estate, or hold over twenty-five hun- 
dred acres of land, however acquired. It also limits 
the purchase of public lands to forty acres for an 
individual and twenty-five hundred acres for a cor- 
poration. With a sparse population, scarcity of 
labor, and over sixty million acres of absolutely un- 
productive state lands, these restrictions furnish a 

[342] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

fair sample of the "intrenched ignorance" of our 
legislators when dealing with Philippine affairs. 
Theoretically, they seek to protect the Filipinos from 
undue "exploitation;" practically, they hinder, de- 
lay, and stifle the economic development! of the 
islands, upon which all Filipino progress, whether 
political or material, must be predicated. 

Perhaps the most flagrant neglect of duty, how- 
ever, was the delay of Congress in opening our mar- 
kets to Philippine products. By virtue of the Treaty 
of Paris the islands became domestic territory of the 
United States, differing in no respect from Hawaii 
and Porto Rico, against whose trade no restrictions 
ever applied. Our responsibility toward the Fili- 
pinos is a national one, deliberately assumed, and yet 
for nine years special interests in Congress were able 
to block legislation intended simply to place them on 
an equality with all others under our flag. When, 
after years of struggle and argument, the House 
agreed to remove the tariff barriers, the bill was 
not even reported from the Senate committee. The 
persuasive arguments of the sugar and tobacco trusts 
proved stronger with that august body than its sense 
of obligation to a stricken people whom we had 
taken as wards. Finally, in 1909, through the peir- 
sistent efforts of President Taft, without whose insis- 
tence it would never have been accomplished, free 
trade was established between the United States and 
the Philippines except as to sugar and tobacco. Upon 
these products the sugar and tobacco interests were 
still sufficiently represented to exact a limitation upon 

[343] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

the amount which could be imported free of duty. 
The whole thing is so palpable, so selfish, and so 
opposed to decency and fair dealing as to bring 
shame to every self-respecting American. Whether 
our occupation, of the Philippines was wise or unwise 
is immaterial; so long as we are here, we should 
play the game honestly and squarely. 

Another thing which complicates our work here is 
the tendency of various ambitious Congressmen to 
occupy their spare time in offering resolutions look- 
ing to the "Neutralization" or "Independence" of 
the Philippines. The theme is a tempting one, lend- 
ing itself, as it does, to oratory and newspaper head- 
lines, without prejudice to their local fences. Read- 
ing the violent denunciations of these embryo states- 
men, it might be imagined all our officials here were 
tyrants " crushing beneath their despotic heels the 
rights, liberties, and privileges of a long-suffering 
people." While such speakers know (or could know, 
if they cared) that they are lying, their Wo^rds be- 
come the text of native politicians and serve to com- 
plicate and embarrass the work of earnest men who 
are striving in this far country to uphold the honor 
and good name of our nation. The power for evil 
of these intemperate notoriety seekers cannot be 
exaggerated. 

In much the same category as the above are the 
Anti-Imperialists of Boston and thereabouts, who 
grow red in the face telling of the terrible things we 
have done and are doing to the Filipinos. That few, 
if any, of these excitable persons have ever taken 

[344] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

the trouble to come to the islands, or had or have 
any practical knowledge of the situation, does not 
disqualify them in the least from passing final judg- 
ment in the matter. While they would not be ex- 
pected to buy a horse, or make a business investment, 
without carefully examining the facts, such require- 
ment becomes a " mere detail " when disposing of the 
future destiny of eight millions of people, with all 
their allied interests. 

Usually, when a person desires information on 
something outside his experience, he either investi- 
gates it himself or consults those who have made a 
practical and disinterested study of it. There is no 
reason why this mooted question of our Philippine 
policy should offer any exception to this rule for 
those honestly seeking the truth. The facts of the 
situation have been stated again and again by those 
qualified to speak, whose ability and sincerity are 
beyond cavil. 

In October, 1907, Mr. Taft, then Secretary of 
War, inaugurated the " Philippine Assembly," which 
body had been created largely through his personal 
efforts and recommendations. Speaking to as intel- 
lectual an audience of Filipinos as could be gathered 
in the islands, and with every incentive to paint their 
future as brightly as possible, he defined our purposes 
toward them as follows: 

The avowed policy of the National Administra- 
tion under these two Presidents (McKinley and 
Roosevelt) has been, and is, to govern the islands, 
having regard to the interest and welfare of the 

[345] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Filipino people, and by the spread of general pri- 
mary and industrial education and by practice in par- 
tial political control to fit the people themselves to 
maintain a stable and well-ordered government 
affording equality of right and opportunity to all 
citizens. 

As this policy of extending control continues, it 
must logically reduce and finally end the sovereignty 
of the United States in these islands, unless it shall 
seem wise to the American and the Filipino people, 
on account of mutually beneficial trade relations and 
possible advantage to the islands in their foreign 
relations, that the bond shall not be completely 
severed. 

How long this process of political preparation of 
the Filipino people is likely to be, is a question 
which no one can certainly answer. When I was in 
the islands last, I ventured the opinion that it would 
talce considerably longer than a generation. I have 
not changed my view upon this point. However this 
may be, I believe that the policy of the Administra- 
tion, as outlined above, is as definite as the policy of 
any government in a matter of this kind can safely 
be made. We are engaged in working out a great 
experiment. No other nation has attempted it, and 
for us to fix a certain number of years in which the 
experiment must become a success and be completely 
realized would he, in my judgment, unwise. 

In an earlier speech he stated : 

I believe, as do most Americans who have had 
great familiarity with the facts, that it is absolutely 
impossible to hope that the lessons which it is the 
duty of the United States to teach the whole Filipino 
people, can be learned by them, as a body, in less 
than a generation; and the probability is that it will 

[346] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

take a longer period in which to render them capable 
of establishing and maintaining a stable, independent 
government. 

In his special report as Secretary of War to Presi- 
dent Roosevelt, made in January, 1908, Mr. Taft 
said: 

What should be emphasized in the statement of 
our national policy is that we wish to prepare the 
Filipinos for popular self-government. This is plain 
from Mr. McKinley's letter of instructions and all 
of his utterances. It was not at all within his pur- 
pose, or that of the Congress which made his letter a 
part of the law of the land, that we were merely to 
await the organization of a Philippine oligarchy or 
aristocracy competent to administer government and 
then turn the islands over to it. On the contrary, 
it is plain, from all of Mr, McKinley's utterances 
and your own, in interpretation of our national pur- 
pose, that we are the trustees and guardians of the 
whole Filipino people, and peculiarly of the ignorant 
masses, and that our trust is not discharged until 
those masses are given education sufficient to know 
their civil rights and maintain them against a more 
powerful class and safely to exercise the political 
franchise. . . . The standard set, of course, is not 
that of perfection, or such a government capacity as 
that of an Anglo-Saxon people, but it certainly ought 
to be one of such popular political capacity that com- 
plete independence in its exercise will result in prog- 
ress rather than retrogression to chaos or tyranny. 

Mr. Taft knows the Filipino people and their lim- 
itations as well or better, perhaps, than any other 
American. He has labored with and for them as 

[347] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Governor-General of the Islands, as Secretary of 
War charged with Philippine affairs, and as Presi- 
dent of the United States, zealous to protect and 
defend their interests. His work in the islands, and 
the legislation enacted under his direction, are better 
evidence of his sincere and disinterested desire to 
help this people, and to deny them no just privilege, 
than are the sounding words of cozy-corner politi- 
cians In the States. 

In 19 lo, the Hon. J. M. Dickinson, a Democrat, 
then Secretary of War, visited the Philippines' and 
made an exhaustive study of conditions. He jour- 
neyed from one end of the Archipelago to the other 
and gave audience, both public and private, to every- 
one desiring to discuss the situation with him. In his 
special report to the President, dated November 23, 
1 9 10, Mr. Dickinson says: 

There are very many highly educated Filipinos, 
many men of talent, ability, and brilliancy, but the 
percentage in comparison with those who are wholly 
untrained in an understanding of, and the exercise 
of, political rights under a republican form of gov- 
•ernment is so small, and under the best and most 
rapid development possible under existing conditions 
win for a long period continue so small, that it is a 
delusion. If the present policy of control of the 
islands by the American people shall continue, to 
encourage the Filipino people in the hope that the 
administration of the Islands will be turned over to 
them within the time of the present generation. The 
only inhabitants of the Islands that are making any 
marked progress in preparation for self-government 
are the Filipinos proper, and, as stated, but a small 

[348] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

percentage of these are sufficiently educated to un- 
derstand and administer republican institutions. The 
masses of them have no knowledge of general ad- 
ministration, and are under the control of leadersj 
whose will is practically their law. 

Further in his report, and referring to an appar- 
ently concerted effort during his visit to work up a 
demonstration in favor of independence, he depre- 
cates such movement as follows : 

The significant and questionable feature was that 
stirring up the people to such demonstrations was 
calculated to engender expectations as to immediate 
independence which would certainly be disappointed, 
and thereby result in discontent with the present 
administration of affairs, and operate as an encour- 
agement to those who are sowing the seeds of dis- 
cord between the American Government and the 
Filipino people, all of which tends to retard the 
development for which we are striving. 

The truth of the above observation applies equally 
to those of our own people who, by their irresponsi- 
ble utterances upon the question of Philippine inde- 
pendence, are hurting rather than helping those 
whom they pretend to serve. 

The Right Reverend Charles H. Brent, now and 
for eleven years past Episcopal Bishop for the Phil- 
ippines, and one of the ablest men in the islands, ex- 
pressed his conviction that our Government was, if 
anything, proceeding too rapidly with its policy of 
extending political control to the natives. During a 
recent speech he quoted with approval the following 

[349] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

passage from the farewell address of the Earl of 
Cromer, who, as England's great Pro-Consul in 
Egypt for nearly thirty years, dealt with problems 
analogous to those confronting our government in 
the Philippines: 

I am not likely in future to take a very active part 
in politics, but I shall continue, as far as my health 
and strength allow, to take an interest in Egyptian 
affairs. Whatever influence I can exert will be exer- 
cised in the direction of steady progress on the lines 
already laid down. I shall deprecate any brisk 
change, any violent new departure; more especially, 
if necessary, I shall urge that this wholly spurious 
manufactured movement in favor of the rapid devel- 
opment of parliamentary institutions be treated for 
what it is worth. And, let me add, it is worth very 
little. It does not really represent the voice of the 
intelligent dwellers in Eypt, European or Egyptian. 
When all nonsense and exaggeration are swept away, 
it will, I think, be found that the differences of opin- 
ion between my opponents, especially those in Eng- 
land, and myself are really not so much one of prin- 
ciple as of degree. They wish to gallop. I con- 
sider a steady jog-trot is the pace best suited to 
advance the interests of this country. It is a pace 
which has done us good service in the past, and I 
say it should be continued, never relaxing to a walk 
or breaking into a gallop. My strong conviction is 
that if the pace is greatly mended a serious risk will 
be incurred that the horse will come down and break 
his knees. 

I wish to tell you why I entertain and why I now 
state these opinions. It is not because I hold any 
political advantage will accrue to my own country 
from their adoption. It is not even because I believe 

[350] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

them to be shared by all the most intelligent classes, 
European and Egyptian, in this country. No; it is 
mainly because I hope that what I am now saying 
will eventually be translated into the vernacular lan- 
guage, and will thus reach the ears of some, at all 
events, of the voiceless millions of blue-shirted fella- 
heen, on whose labor the prosperity of the country 
really depends. I, who claim always to have been 
their true friend, warn them against allowing them- 
selves to be duped and misled by their pseudo-repre- 
sentatives, who, without a shadow of real authority, 
credit them with ideas which they neither entertain 
nor fully comprehend, and who advocate a political 
program, the immediate adoption of which, while 
detrimental to all other interests, would, I am firmly 
convinced, be specially hurtful to those of the poor- 
est classes of the community. If, instead of being 
the defender of a regime which has now lasted 
nearly a quarter of a century, I were to turn my 
hand to criticising it, I should be disposed to dwell 
on the point that progress, instead of being too slow, 
has been so fast that the reforms effected have not 
as yet been thoroughly assimilated by the mass of 
the population. 

The above quotations, which state our problem in 
the Philippines and its answer, might be multiplied 
indefinitely. The Philippine Commission has iterated 
and reiterated the same conclusions in its annual 
reports during the past twelve years — conclusions 
concurred in by practically every impartial investi- 
gator. These men are not conspirators, engaged in 
a scheme to deceive the American public and rob the 
Filipinos of their birthright, but are the representa- 
tives of our government, speaking with an authority 

[351] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

gained through months and years of actual contact 
with this situation. 

The Filipinos have today a degree of liberty and 
freedom unknown among any oriental people, and, 
under our protection and tutelage, are making rapid 
strides along the road our forefathers builded with 
blood and with tears. To now jeopardize all that 
has been done, and all that is yet promised, by the 
premature establishment of self-government, would 
be an act of folly, as unjust to the great masses of 
this people as it would be recreant and criminal of 
us. Nowhere have the principles underlying this 
matter of granting self-government to the Filipinos 
been more clearly and forcibly expressed than by 
our now President, Mr. Wilson, who, in his lecture 
on " Constitutional Government in the United 
States," delivered at Columbia University, in 1907, 
said: 

Self-government Is not a mere form of institu- 
tions, to be had when desired, if only proper pains 
be taken. It is a form of character. It follows upon 
the long discipline which gives a people self-posses- 
sion, self-mastery, the habit of order and peace and 
common counsel, and a reverence for law which will 
not fail when they themselves become the makers 
of law: the steadiness and self-control of political 
maturity. And these things cannot be had without 
long discipline. 

The distinction is of vital concern to us in respect 
of practical choices of policy which we must make, 
and make very soon. We have dependencies to deal 
with and must deal with them In the true spirit of 
our own institutions. We can give the Filipinos con- 

[352] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

stitutlonal government, a government which they 
may count upon to be just, a government based upon 
some clear and equitable understanding, intended for 
their good and not for our aggrandizement; but we 
must ourselves for the present supply that govern- 
ment. It would, it is true, be an unprecedented 
operation, reversing the process of Runnymede, but 
America has before this shown the world enlight- 
ened processes of politics that were without prece- 
dent. It would have been within the choice of John 
to summon his barons to Runnymede and of his own 
initiative enter into a constitutional understanding 
with them ; and it is within our choice to do a similar 
thing, at once wise and generous, in the government 
of the Philippine Islands. But we cannot give them 
self-government. Self-government Is not a thing" 
that can be "given" to any people, because it is a 
form of character and not a form of constitution. 
No people can be "given" the self-control of ma- 
turity. Only a long apprenticeship of obedience can 
secure them the precious possession, a thing no more 
to be bought than given. They cannot be presented 
with the character of a community, but it may confi- 
dently be hoped that they will become a community 
under the wholesome and salutary influences of just 
laws and a sympathetic administration ; that they will 
after a while understand and master themselves, if 
in the meantime they are understood and served In 
good conscience by those set over them in authority. 

We, of all people In the world, should know these 
fundamental things and should act upon them, if 
only to Illustrate the mastery In politics which be- 
longs to us of hereditary right. To ignore them 
would be not only to fail and fail miserably, but to 
fail ridiculously and belie ourselves. Having our- 
selves gained self-government by a definite process 

[353] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

which can have no substitute, let us put the people 
dependent upon us in the right way to gain it also. 

The mistake made by many of our people is in 
accepting the insistent demands of a certain class of 
natives, who largely control the sources of public 
expression, as representing the desires and capacity 
of the whole Filipino race. This is not the fact. 
The population is split into innumerable and scat- 
tered divisions, many of them semi-savage, speaking 
various dialects, and without any cohesion of inter- 
ests or ideas. In the general elections held in June, 
19 1 2, only 235,792 people voted, or .034 per cent 
of the Christian population of the islands, and this 
under a most liberal franchise. Our obligation is 
not so much to the few, who possibly have the 
capacity they claim, as it is to that vast majority 
whose need and cry is not for independence, but 
rather for that equality of right and opportunity 
which is found only in just laws efficiently and hon- 
estly administered. Neither is this demand for im- 
mediate independence general to Filipinos of educa- 
tion and fortune. Investigation would disclose that 
most of those who clamor loudest in this regard have 
but small material interests at stake, while the con- 
servative business element — the men of means and 
property who are the backbone of the islands — 
would consider our early withdrawal nothing short 
of a calamity. 

Secretary of War Dickinson, in his report above 
quoted, said: 

[354] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

There is no doubt that, so far as publicly ex- 
pressed, the general desire of the Filipinos is for 
what they denominate "immediate independence." 
. . . While these, as stated, are the only views pub- 
licly expressed, I became convinced from reliable 
evidence that many of the most substantial men, 
while not openly opposing the demands publicly 
voiced, would regard such a consummation with con- 
sternation. They realize that the government would 
fall into the hands of a few who would dominate 
the masses; that the administration, even without 
outside interference, could not be successfully car- 
ried on; that there would be internal dissensions 
and probably civil war, and that if the United States 
did not interfere they would fall an easy prey to 
some foreign power. 

As implied In the foregoing. It Is not In our power 
to grant the Filipinos "Independence." It is within 
our power to withdraw from the islands, but it is 
not within our right to tell other countries, whose 
interests may be affected, to stand off. Our over- 
worked and somewhat wobbly Monroe Doctrine 
does not extend to the Philippine Islands. To relin- 
quish sovereignty, and still remain responsible for 
the preservation of law and order, would render our 
last condition worse than the first. The situation 
prevailing in Mexico, our sister republic, whose in- 
habitants are far more homogeneous and far more 
experienced In government than are the Filipinos, 
should give pause to those who advocate the early 
turning adrift of these Islands to the perils both of 
internecine strife and of foreign Intervention. 

As to "Neutralization" — the granting of inde- 

[355] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

pendence under an international protectorate — the 
scheme is wholly chimerical and impossible. It 
would require, for success, the unanimous consent of 
the world powers, for which consent there is neither 
motive nor moving necessity. Moreover, to be 
" neutralized," a country must be thoroughly capable 
of maintaining internal order and of protecting the 
nationals of other countries within its borders. Until 
it can do this any such plan would simply mean 
sharing our present responsibility with other powers, 
with the chances strong that some of them would 
early find a pretext for overturning the arrangement. 
It chanced that the Philippines were acquired, and 
our policy with reference thereto was defined, under 
a Republican administration. While two of our 
Governors-General have been Democrats, and the 
question of party allegiance has never entered into 
the island government in anyway, the temptation to 
use the situation-for political purposes could not be 
resisted in the States. Since 1900 the Democratic 
party has sought to make an "Issue" of the Philip- 
pines, the mere fact of the dominant party having 
adopted a certain policy being ample ground for 
denouncing it and demanding a change. Party suc- 
cess has been pinnacled above truth and honest deal- 
ing, and the effect of platform pledges upon the bal- 
lot box has meant more than the welfare of a de- 
pendent people given into our keeping. The igno- 
rance and partisan prejudices of the masses are 
invoked to destroy the work and falsify the testi- 
mony of men of character who have unselfishly 

[356] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

builded in these islands a monument to the justice 
and high sense of duty of the American people. It 
is certainly a sad commentary upon our so-called 
" leaders," when an obligation, national in its scope, 
and requiring the highest statesmanship in its solu- 
tion, is debased into material with which to catch the 
votes of an indifferent or uninformed public. 

Now that the Democratic party has triumphed at 
the polls, it remains to be seen whether those charged 
with the responsibility of government thereunder are 
broad-gauged enough to appreciate that this problem 
here is not one which concerns our people as Demo- 
crats or Republicans, but as American citizens. To 
divide on our Philippine policy according to party 
lines, simply because the islands have been used as 
make-weight for political purposes, would be to give 
the lie to our boasted independence of thought and 
action in dealing with public questions. 

No one would pretend that mistakes have not 
been made in the Philippines, or that the present 
situation leaves nothing to be desired. When the 
ideas and institutions of one people, however good 
or advantageous they may be, are superimposed upon 
a race whose habits of thought, customs, and lan- 
guage are altogether different, opposition and fric- 
tion are bound to result. Having acquired the 
islands, however, and assumed responsibility there- 
for, it is submitted that the policy thereafter adopted 
was not only creditable to our people but offered the 
Filipinos every right and privilege which their then 
condition made feasible or possible ; that, with minor 

[357] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

Congressional lapses, our work since has been un- 
remittingly directed to promoting the peace and pros- 
perity of the whole people ; that our pledge to grant 
them a constantly increasing participation in the gov- 
ernment has been consistently adhered to, and that 
any agitation looking to a present or early change 
in this policy hampers and delays the material prog- 
ress of the country, injects an element of discord 
into our relations with the people, and postpones the 
time when our control can be safely relinquished. 

In so far as the actual administration of affairs is 
concerned, history will record that at no time and in 
no place under our flag has any department of our 
government been administered more faithfully and 
honestly by those charged therewith than have the 
Philippines. Despite the minute scrutiny and 
malevolent ingenuity of those anxious to establish 
the fact, the one effort to discredit our authorities 
here proved a complete fiasco. During 19 lo a Con- 
gressman from one of the beet sugar States de- 
nounced in perfervid language the sale to American 
sugar interests of one of the unoccupied Friar 
estates, and charged various of our officials with 
having used their positions to obtain advantageous 
contracts as to such lands. The attack was widely 
advertised by the Anti-Imperialist League, and by 
those interested in discrediting sugar production in 
the Philippines, who saw to it that the " Friar land 
scandal" was duly featured in the American press. 
A resolution was adopted authorizing and directing 
the House Committee on Insular Affairs to thor- 

[358] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

oughly investigate the charges made and report 
thereon. This was done, numerous witnesses from 
the Philippines and elsewhere being cited and exam- 
ined, and an exhaustive study made of all records 
bearing on the subject. The Anti-Imperialist League, 
which apparently supplied most of the ammunition 
to the sugar Congressman, was represented at the 
hearing by a private attorney, who left nothing un- 
done to prove his fellow-countrymen here malefac- 
tors, and to bring discredit upon our country and 
flag. The result of this patriotic endeavor must 
have proven bitterly disappointing, however. The 
majority report of the Committee, signed by thirteen 
members, sustained the action of the Philippine au- 
thorities throughout, and as to the personal charges 
stated: 

We find that the administration of lands in the 
Philippine Islands has been fairly and honestly con- 
ducted, and that the charges and insinuations to the 
contrary which have been made against the officials 
charged with the execution of the laws in relation 
thereto, whether officers of the Philippine Govern- 
ment or of the United States, are unwarranted and 
unjust. W. Cameron Forbes, Governor-General; 
Dean C. Worcester, Secretary of the Interior; 
Charles H. Sleeper, Director of Lands, and Frank 
W. Carpenter, Executive Secretary, are able, ear- 
nest, patriotic men, honestly performing their duties 
under more or less trying circumstances. 

The five other members of the Committee, while 
disagreeing with the majority upon certain points of 

[359] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

law, found with them upon the charge of personal 
wrong-doing, their report reading: 

Nothing that has been developed in this investiga- 
tion goes to show that those charged with the re- 
sponsibility of administering the land laws of the 
Philippine Islands have been guilty of any wrong- 
doing. Having, too, obtained and acted upon the 
advice of the highest law officers of the Philippine 
Government, they cannot be justly blamed for any 
mistakes of law upon their part, if mistakes there 
were. 

Another favorite subject of criticism by those seek- 
ing flaws in the island administration Is the construc- 
tion of the Benguet road — the highway leading to 
the summer capital of Baguio. As stated in a previ- 
ous chapter, this road was surveyed by a military 
engineer, who estimated it could be built in six 
months at a cost of seventy-five thousand dollars. 
Acting upon this report, the amount specified was 
appropriated (Act 6i, Philippine Commission), with 
provision that the work should be completed by July 
I, 1 90 1. As actual construction proceeded, the original 
estimate was found defective, and further sums were 
requested from time to time, resulting in an ultimate 
outlay much greater than first planned. Those who 
have visited Baguio, however, whether American, 
foreigner, or Filipino, are practically unanimous in 
saying that it is worth all and more than it cost. Its 
wonderful mountains, its pine forests that remind of 
our own northland, and its cool, bracing climate 

[360] 



THE PHILIPPINE COMMISSION 

make it an ideal resort and sanitarium for the pale 
residents of the lowlands, whom fortune denies a 
journey further afield. It is also the site of a mili- 
tary hospital and reservation, of valuable gold mines, 
and a distributing point for all the mountain country 
to the north. There is little question but that it will 
eventually become a new Simla for the inhabitants 
of the Asiatic seaboard, supplying as it does a needed 
change in temperature and a wealth of natural 
scenery scarcely surpassed in the world. So long as 
the United States is called upon to send of its sons 
and daughters to administer these tropical islands, 
just so long should those who sit by their firesides 
at home, or those for whose benefit our trust is as- 
sumed, cease to rail at Baguio. It now occupies a 
necessary place in the economy of our government 
service, and will, as time passes, be appreciated and 
utilized more and more by the public generally. 

If our people at home would relieve this Philip- 
pine question of its political and sentimental trim- 
mings, they would find the issue comparatively sim- 
ple. No self-respecting American would sanction the 
sale of the islands, nor would he permit their being 
taken from us by force. When we relinquish them, 
if at all, it must be in favor of the Filipino people, 
and this means in favor of all the people and not a 
privileged few. No argument should be necessary 
to convince that the question of when this can safely 
and honorably be done is a practical one, and not a 
matter to be disposed of by popular vote or popular 
clamor. 

[361] 



THE ODYSSEY OF 

For the present the true interests of this people 
can be best served by assisting in the material devel- 
opment of the country, and in bringing to them that 
economic independence so absolutely prerequisite to 
their political autonomy. The islands are rich in 
every natural resource, and offer a field for safe and 
profitable investment perhaps unrivalled in the 
world. The realization of this latent wealth of the 
archipelago would mean increased opportunity for 
the masses, and a hastening of the time when they 
can intelligently administer a government of their 
own based upon the equal rights of all. When this 
fact is realized by our people, and the situation re- 
lieved of personal prejudice and the baneful influ- 
ence of party politics, we may reasonably hope that 
our undertaking here will prove a source of pride to 
us and of satisfaction to the people whose welfare 
we have taken into our keeping. 



THE END 



[3621 



INDEX 



Administration of the Philippines, 
what has been done, 332-340 ; 
cost, 329, 330 

Aguinaldo, in hiding, 124 ; cap- 
ture of, 194 ; takes oath of al- 
legiance, 222 ; address to the 
people, 222-224 ; his gun foun- 
dry, 260 

Amusements, 337 

Anti-imperialists, 344, 345 

Army in the islands, 51, 56 ; im- 
portance of precedence at func- 
tions, 85 ; the American soldier, 
102; police work, 123 

Baguio, 261-264 

Benguei, as a summer resort, 71, 

73; trip to, 255-275, 360, 361 
Brent, Bishop C. H., views of 

Philippine conditions, 350, 351 
Bryan, W. J., 88, 108, 329 

Canton, 40-43 

Church and state, 336 

Climate, 138, 139 

Commission, the Philippine, 
reason for its appointment, 5 ; 
its members, 6, 7 ; legislative 
body, 46 ; introduction to Ma- 
nila, 49-51 : scope and policy, 
61 ; organization and assign- 
ments, 62 ; assistants, 64 ; its 
methods of work, 87 ; acts re- 
garding labor and salaries, 143, 
144 ; provincial organizations 
in the north, 145-164 ; in the 
south, 165-189 ; visits the Sulu 
group, 191-202 ; further provin- 
cial organizations, 203-214 ; 
antagonism to, 214 ; further 
organization work, 218, 220, 
221, 225, 230, 232, 239, 244, 
247 ; judiciary act, 252 ; Fili- 
pinos appointed members, 278 : 
Board of Health act, 282 ; con- 
stabulary act, 283 ; favoring 
Filipinos, 286-288 ; work mis- 
represented, 288 ; northern trip, 
290-314 ; tariff bill, 315 ; 
amount of work, 320, 321 ; 
character of, 322, 323 

Congress and the Philippines, 
mining laws, 342 ; currency, 
."^42 : tariff wrongs, 343 

Congressional party and ideas, 
325 



Cost of administration, 329, 330 
Courts, reorganization of, 92 ; 
evils of local, 93, 94 ; new codes 
for, 94 ; improvement in, 333 

Democratic party and Philippines, 

89, 90, 356, 357 
Dewey, Admiral, and his battle, 

3, 4, 48, 99, 243, 244 
Dickinson, J. M., report on the 

Philippines, 348, 349, 354, 355 
Dinners and balls, 84, 213, 220, 

221 

Education, 132-134 ; arrival of 
teachers, 316 ; what has been 
accomplished, 333 

Federal party created, 122 ; 
spread of, 136 

Filipinos, character and life, 82, 
100 ; education, 84 ; cockflght- 
ing, 99 ; reception to American 
Commission and hospitality, 
145-164, 209, 215, 216, 307; 
adjustment to new conditions, 
249, 250 ; represented in gov- 
ernment, 286 : political parties, 
317, 318 ; radicals, 327 ; office 
holders, 338, 339 ; opposition to 
American help, 340, 341 ; their 
liberty today, 352 ; arguments 
against their independence, 
354, 355; best help for, 362; 
summary of work for, 332-340 

Finances, currency problem, 111- 
114 ; improvement in, 336 

Forestry regulations, 336 

Friars, their rule in the islands, 
73, 75-77 ; and life, 77, 78 ; 
lands, 73, 74, 79 ; treatment of 
the natives, 171 ; estates, 336 

Grant, General Frederick, 129 

Health service, 334 
Hong Kong, 37-40, 44, 45 
Honolulu, 10-15 

Igorotes, receive civil government, 
119, 120, 267, 274 

Imports, 337 

Independence of the islands, 4 ; 
urged by natives, 68, 69 : vague 
ideas, concerning, 70, 71 ; how 
far it can be favored, 287 



[363] 



INDEX 



Insurrection and insurrectos, the, 
4, 5, 59-61 ; 109, 226, 228, 232 ; 
address of Judge Taft on, 233, 
234 

Irrigation, 335 

Japan, 18-36 
Judiciary act, 252 

Kyoto, 30-32 

Liquor and saloons, 117, 119 

McKinley, President William, 90 ; 
election, 124 ; effect of in Phil- 
ippines, 206 ; assassination of, 
319 ; and islands, 329 

Manila, description of and life in, 
48-58 ; improvement of port, 
95 ; churches and services, 97, 
98 

Military government, 46, 50, 51, 
56, 65 ; in the Sulu group, 191 ; 
varieties of and the Commis- 
sion, 214 ; varieties of, 241, 
243 ; and provincial govern- 
ment, 253 ; change in, 279 ; in 
Northern Luzon, 296 

Moros, 193, 197 

Municipal code, 139-141 

Nagasaki, 33-36 
Negritos, described, 130 
Nikko. 23-26 

Philippine Islands, government, 
46 ; change in government. 
280 ; what the United States 
has done for, 327-362 ; cost, 
329, 330 ; reason for occupa- 
tion, 328, 331, 332 : solving the 
, problem, 332 
Postal savings bank, 335 
Provincial organization work by 
the Commission, among the 
Igorotes, 119, 120 ; extension 
of, 137 ; provincial government 
act. 139. 141-143 ; methods and 
experiences on northern trip. 



145-164 ; on southern trip, 165- 
189, 203-214, 218, 220, 221, 
225, 230, 232, 239, 244, 247 ; 
central civil government, 251, 
254 ; northern provinces, 299, 
313 

Kizal, Dr. Jose, 80, 81, 205, 206, 

341 
Roads and road building, 90, 91 ; 

to Benguet, 257, 263, 360, 361 

"Star Spangled Banner, The," 
effect of the music, 57, 128, 
195 
Sultan of Sulu, the, 192, 193 
Sulu group visited, 191-202 
Schools, American, 84 ; need of in 
the islands, 132 ; religion in, 
133, 134 ; arrival of teachers, 
316 ; what the United States 
has done for, 333 
Spanish rule, 81, 82, 83, 90, 110; 
feeling towards natives, 127 ; 
as to education, 132 

Taft, W. H., chairman of com- 
mission, 63 ; department of 
work, 62 ; address to people in 
the insurrection, 233, 234 ; ad- 
dress on civil liberty, 245 ; ap- 
pointed civil governor, 278 ; 
inauguration, 280 ; address at 
inauguration, 281 ; address on 
the policy of the United States, 
345-347 

Tokio, 20-28 

Transportation, 335 

United States and Philippine 
islands, reason for occupation. 
328, 331, 332; what has been 
done, 332-339, 358 

Wilson, President Woodrow, on 
self-government, 352, 353 

Yokohama, 18-20, 26-30 



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